Hi, guys,

I am a freshman here. I bought a 96 Mitsubishi magna v6 3.0 auto half a year ago. At that time the odo is 13km, now is 13.7km on the panel. It has been regularly serviced. Yesterday I came across a problem which I have never met before.

In the morning, the engine is cold, when I start it, the tachometer showed 1700R/Min. I hold the accelerator for a moment; the speed could reduce to a little bit above 1000R/Min (because the engine was still cold).

I drive it on the way, when I stop behind the traffic lights; I put the transmission selector into N, the tachometer showed 1200-1300 R/Min. at this time, the engine is already hot. When I put the selector back to D to get started, (I hold the brake of course) I felt car rush out, which is not smooth as before (maybe due to the speed of the engine). Beside, at that time, the air conditioning is on, and it was on and off, and on and off, changing many times. At that time, I also find the accelerating is not as same as before. And the accelerator is not comparable with the transmission.

But today, when I start the car, there is no problem at all even if it is hot. I drive it to mechanist to have a check. But, they could not know exactly what the problem is because the car is all right. They guess maybe there are something wrong with the transmission or the little black component which connect to the engine used to adjust the fuel injection (I do not know what it is, he said it costs 100-200 dollars).

Is it possible due to lack of transmission fluid?

Could anybody help me with this? I am a international student, car repairing is very difficult for me because there are lots of specialized terms.

Any help from you will be highly appreciated.

Many thanks,

Jason

Check the PVC (positive crank ventilation valve), see pic. Just pops of if pried gently. The TE is getting old now so the PVC has probably never been looked at. Just clean it out with a cotton bud and some petrol (DO NOT USE SOLVENTS) or kerosine.

If that doesn't save the day, the idle control switch is in trouble, again not unusual for the age of the vehicle. You might bag a cheap one off a TJ, TL model for around $100 at a wreckers. Just need an O-ring and a 10mm ring spanner to swap out. The ICS is the item #8 in the 2nd pic.

Check the PVC (positive crank ventilation valve), see pic. Just pops of if pried gently. The TE is getting old now so the PVC has probably never been looked at. Just clean it out with a cotton bud and some petrol (DO NOT USE SOLVENTS) or kerosine.

If that doesn't save the day, the idle control switch is in trouble, again not unusual for the age of the vehicle. You might bag a cheap one off a TJ, TL model for around $100 at a wreckers. Just need an O-ring and a 10mm ring spanner to swap out. The ICS is the item #8 in the 2nd pic.


Thank you very much for pointing out the problems, and many thanks for your solutioins!

I will try to have it fixed under your guidence!

cheers!

Check the PVC (positive crank ventilation valve), see pic. Just pops of if pried gently. The TE is getting old now so the PVC has probably never been looked at. Just clean it out with a cotton bud and some petrol (DO NOT USE SOLVENTS) or kerosine.

If that doesn't save the day, the idle control switch is in trouble, again not unusual for the age of the vehicle. You might bag a cheap one off a TJ, TL model for around $100 at a wreckers. Just need an O-ring and a 10mm ring spanner to swap out. The ICS is the item #8 in the 2nd pic.


I checked the PCV, and there is nothing wrong with that. Can you please tell me how could I check the idle control switch? Do you think are there any other parts that possible cause the problem?

These days, I only find the accelorating is not comparable with the transmission. The idle speed is all right now! I am confused!

Thanks for your reply!

3.0L V6 idles very high when cold, much higher than 3.5L...as long as it setlles down to 700-800rpm when warm you dont have a problem...
Cheers

To check the ICS is working (responding anyways), remove the ICS from the bottom of the TB, leaving the harness attached.

Standing to the SIDE of the car, turn the key to the ON position without starting the car. You should be able to hear a 'whirring' noise from the ICS. This means it's at least moving in and out trying to control the idle.