What can I use to make insulated manifold gaskets and TB gaskets from?? I've looked at ceramic sheets - very expensive, brittle, thick. I'm thinking some sort of plastic with a HIGH melting point and no adverse brittality or vapour shedding. Something in the electronics industry?

Ceramic fibre paper is also a strong contender along with Millboard.

Anyone got thoughts?

About what temperatures u looking at and what price range?

maybe u should look into PTFE (polytetrafluroethylene), i'll let u know if i find something else

Take a look around this site it might help:

www.dotmar.com.au (http://www.dotmar.com.au)

About what temperatures u looking at and what price range?
Cheap!! 850deg C I think most engine paints are rated at, I can't find any other or more accurate specific heat value from 20mins of Googling :cry:

which manifold, where bouts, what between etc..

Insulating the upper and lower inlet manifold on 3rd gens and the TB/plenum gasket on 3rd Gens. Lower manifold gasket is a *maybe*

is this to stop heat from getting to the throttle body?

try www.tucks.com.au (http://www.tucks.com.au)

PTFE can be use for every thing but exhaust manifold as the rest should be cooled, yes?

hope that helps :confused: :D

Dave. :P

PS: Let me know how the 2nd gen box comes along:D

breadboard????


why dont you weld on some big heat sinks like a cpu in ya computer ???

To keep heat out of the plenum, tb etc. The EGR is disconnected. :shifty:

Been to COF (not COHF!!! lol ), Tucks, all sort of boiler and gasket manufacturer etc. Thought I'd get some answers from members in the know.

Your not going to find a meterial which can significantly reduce heat transfer to the plenum or throttle body. I would say your best bet is to aid air flow over the intake. I also dont think air spends enough time in the plenum or runners for it to make a significant differece. Put your efforts to something more of a challange and more worth while like a throttle actuated water injection system bolt on for magnas.

U should try see an approximate on what temperatures it gets to as most gaskets can be made out of the PTFE but there is plastic that melts at higher temperature but this is alot more brittle (from memory). electronic materials are pretty much useless as nearly anything above 200 C is already dead. So look more towards the industrial strength substances on the dotmar site, if u want higher temp gasket

Put your efforts to something more of a challange and more worth while like a throttle actuated water injection system bolt on for magnas.
I'll water cool the manifold! Good thinking!

I'll water cool the manifold! Good thinking!
i thought u did. :shock: U should have said that, but then again if u had said it u would have done it, wouldnt u. lol

Anyone know the temp of the engine block, heads, plenum? Need to buy a laser thermometer thingo...

water temp aprox 100deg in cooling sys might wana run a nother small rad and water pump

The outside temp of the block (cooled) is around 150 C i think from memory :confused: , but then again i might be completely wrong.

I'll tell u wat how bout u get some dumb ass to put his hand on it to c how hot it is, multiply the time it takes for him to take his hand of by 50 and that'd give u the temp in C's :bowrofl:

But seriously i think u should get one of those laser thermometer things, u might need it later.

Dave

water temp aprox 100deg in cooling sys might wana run a nother small rad and water pump
I'm pretty sure its higher as the advantage of an enclosed cooling system is the increase in boiling temp.

I'll water cool the manifold! Good thinking!

Another piece of brilliance this idea. Almost has a "Why the F*** didn't I think of that" quality about it.

Here's my 2c:
1) Davies-Craig external electric water pump.
2) Tranny cooler as heat exchange unit.
3) Electric thermofan to mount onto cooler
4) weld water jacket around plenum, weld in a cap in the top of the jacket to fill 'er up
5) hose it together

Don't think you could cool it with the engine coolant, I reckon that would heat it up more than anything. Needs to be a separate system.

Go on Ian... do it!

yea it is not much more at running temp aprox 100deg to 120deg
if you can take rad cap off without it boiling at sea level its under 100deg

May as well just water/air I/C it with 18psi from twin centrifugals. Just need another one now.

But back on track, anyone bought the RPW or Barry's kit with spacers/gaskets?

hm..... big task, but would be very very cool

how much room between the manafold and bonnet?

heat sink it

And some big air movement through the engine bay to make said heatsink dissipate any heat to the air.....

Big forward facing scooby-style bonnet scoop anyone?

:stoopid: thats what i was thinking

Hey, nice to see we are on the same page....

I still reckon the water jacket would look heaps cooler, dunno about the cooling performance of it though. Would need to flow alot of water and have a very efficient cooler and access to cool airflow.....that's hard to find in an engine bay!

Route the lines up into the bumper somewhere? Big mother intercooler? Maybe get a custom intercooler made up with a 6" section on the bottom for flowing the plenum coolant through it.... :confused:

it takes 50 times more air to kool, than water takes to kool

vw motors air cooled the fan on thoes motors is what kills the performance if you take the belt off and drive it they fly but will cook in no time

I'd actually be most worried about not being able to cool the water enough and eventually boiling it. As long as the cooler has plenty of cool air getting to it and a good fan on it, i don;t see why it shouldnt work though.

May as well just water/air I/C it with 18psi from twin centrifugals. Just need another one now.

But back on track, anyone bought the RPW or Barry's kit with spacers/gaskets?


I have both the plentium and T/B gasket from Barry. There was a manufactor name on the plentium gasket but i can't remember it now. Maybe PM Barry and ask him?

Anyone know the temp of the engine block, heads, plenum? Need to buy a laser thermometer thingo...
Go down to jaycar and get yourself a multimeter with a k type thermocouple input. then while your there get 4 of whatever connections it uses to plug into the multimeter. Two female ones so you can plug the thermocouple into, and then from those female connections use a meter or so of quality wire with the male connections on the end so that the thermocouple can sit in the engine bay and the lead runs though the bonnet and your window.

30 dollar temp guage :cool: I ran it through the firewall and you can see the plugs for the multimeter under the glove box.

http://turbocharade.kicks-ass.org/images/G200t/detailed/images/IMG_0372.jpg

I can design a throttle controlled switch for the setup. As you have efi its a simple matter of using the TPS (if its the right type) as a signal and using a certain voltage from it (certain throttle position and higher) to trigger a relay with a pump. Ive done similar setups for mates but boost controlled from a map sensor.. obviously that isn't much good for you lads though.

I have both the plentium and T/B gasket from Barry. There was a manufactor name on the plentium gasket but i can't remember it now. Maybe PM Barry and ask him?
I'm in touch with Barry about these, thanks. Have you disconnected your ERG and TB coolant lines?

:D :) Pffffft PTFE just say teflon :badgrin: lol

I can design a throttle controlled switch for the setup. As you have efi its a simple matter of using the TPS (if its the right type) as a signal and using a certain voltage from it (certain throttle position and higher) to trigger a relay with a pump. Ive done similar setups for mates but boost controlled from a map sensor.. obviously that isn't much good for you lads though.
I'd like to see a vacuum or TPS controlled gismo for opening a set of butterflies in my bottom row of inlet manifold runners :D

one of the pajero motors have that set up

so do camerys and falcons

make long runners or short:P

one of the pajero motors have that set up

so do camerys and falcons

make long runners or short:P
Yeah, been looking at my XR6 for a while pondering.... The Pajero set up was a disappointment from output point of view no?

I'm in touch with Barry about these, thanks. Have you disconnected your ERG and TB coolant lines?

Nope, they are still connected.

Nope, they are still connected.
The heat from the exhaust and from the radiator coolant passing thru the TB will be raising your inlet air temp - defeating the purpose of the insulator blocks.

one of the pajero motors have that set up

so do camerys and falcons

make long runners or short:P

I think that the MIVEC's have the same system, if you were to set this up it would be better to have it change over at a spcific rpm as the runners are tuned for rpm, not throttle position.

change over at a spcific rpm as the runners are tuned for rpm, not throttle position. My bad, that's what I meant.

If you really want to try to insulate between your inlet manifold components, just use the traditional cork style gasket material, it's available for next to nothing at any auto parts store and a piece of cake to make a gasket with. Cork has excellent thermal insulating properties and was used extensively through out cold room construction till polystyrene came about. But to be honest it is a waste of time. Whilst cold air intakes help, the air is passing through your inlet manifold so quick that it absorbs very little heat from the manifold itself. But if you really wanted to do a complicated water cooling setup, and modify your inlet manifold, install a water to air intercooler in the valley of the V6, don't worry about trying to cool the manifold it's self. Or you could install some bonnet vents (please no excel type scoops :slap: ) if under bonnets temps bother you that much.

If you really want to try to insulate between your inlet manifold components, just use the traditional cork style gasket material, it's available for next to nothing at any auto parts store and a piece of cake to make a gasket with. Cork has excellent thermal insulating properties and was used extensively through out cold room construction till polystyrene came about. But to be honest it is a waste of time. Whilst cold air intakes help, the air is passing through your inlet manifold so quick that it absorbs very little heat from the manifold itself. But if you really wanted to do a complicated water cooling setup, and modify your inlet manifold, install a water to air intercooler in the valley of the V6, don't worry about trying to cool the manifold it's self. Or you could install some bonnet vents (please no excel type scoops :slap: ) if under bonnets temps bother you that much.
It's just another link in the chain really. Got several promising leads I'm following up next wk.