In my TF wagon the washer bottle is cracked. has anyone else had this problem? If so whad have you done to fix the problem

Bit of araldite should fix her. :)

Duct tape fixes all. Short term.

Had the same problem in the TF.. Luckily we got the extended warranty and the guy at service just told us not to worry about it and they replaced it!

SuFz :rant:

Had the same problem in the TF.. Luckily we got the extended warranty and the guy at service just told us not to worry about it and they replaced it!

SuFz :rant:

Half ya luck i am thinkn about ditchin it all together and just getin a generic 1 from REPCO or Super Cheap etc although i need to find one that takes both motors as its a wagon

Half ya luck i am thinkn about ditchin it all together and just getin a generic 1 from REPCO or Super Cheap etc although i need to find one that takes both motors as its a wagon
or you could grab one from your local wrecker...

They all seem to be cracked too :headbange

where u from ready 88 ???

theres plenty of magna wreaked down on gold coast

Is a common problem and I started this thread in my early days here in AMC. New ones cost about $58.00 if I recalled. Even Wreckers would ask you to buy it from the Dealers.

you cant repair the crack if its near the washer motor

anywhere else
a fibergalss repair kit will do the job faster and cheaper get it at bunnings or an auto place
or even a boating supply shop ?

the instructions come with the kit so a child can do it
comes out stronger and water proof

yes gaffa tape works on the top if the crack is there

i did see supa cheap had retro fit but i think they stock for commadors and falcons they are not so magna friendly as yet

thats my solution other members may have other ideas


Fiberglass :dancin: thats a dam good idea neva thought about that thanks it might work. the crack is on top around da seam theres actualy a peice missing about the size of two 50c peices side by side.

i'm from townsville

super cheap will never be magna friendly.. all they cater for is the masses of holdoors and falcodoors.

Look here (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24293)

Same topic was covered 3days ago :doubt:

Yeah, I had the exact same problem.



http://www.lavendergreenooaks.com/BEN/CIMG0848.JPG


I was going to use araldite, smeared over the top of the crack, but it was so brittle that it wouldn't have lasted long, and there were some holes which were about the size of a 5 cent coin that still needed to be blocked up.

Instead, I opted to use 250ml off fiberglass resin, 1m of 40mm width fiberglass mat, 2 dodgey cheap 10 mm paint brushes, a plastic chinese food container, and catalyst, sandpaper as required. It cost all up under $15. The fiberglass kit costs around $25 (man, I'm a stooge!!)

So ere's what ya gonna have to do....

Undo the two top bolts and slowly pull the bottle up.

Get access to the pump plug and remove the plug, and then remove the water tube to the pump (watch out, all the water out of the bottle will start to come out) If you are a stooge like me and want to save your windshield wiper fluid, then pour it into a bucket.

Take out the bottle fully, and after emptying it out, clean the bottle with dishwashing liquid or engine degreaser (if using engine degreaser then try not to get degreaser inside the bottle, it isn't healthy for the inards of the pump)

Because the bottle is made out of nylon (an oily thermopastic) the fiberglass is gonna have trouble sticking to the bottle. So, to combat this you will have to scuff the bottle's surface with 80-150 grit sandpaper.

After the bottle has dried, chop some of the fiberglass mat (20mm-50mm width) into 10-20 centimetre lengths and make some shorter and longer lengths as well (in case you need it). I used 4 15cm lengths, a 10cm length (and a couple of short bits to start off blocking the hole).

Mix up 1/2 the resin into a container, and use it to smear a film of resin onto the bottle with a paint brush over the affected area and about 5 cms around the affected area as well. Now place strips of mat (start with small strips) onto the affected area and wet them down with the brush, dabbing the mat into shape. It may be a little tricky to get the edges to stay down, because of the weird shape it is.

Now, use the longer mats to wrap over the affected and surrounding area to help keep the matting down and wet them down as flat as possible. I found that the main seam where the bottle was joined was hard to wet down.

Let it all dry, and then test the bottle by filling it up and stickin ya finger over the pump hole (to stop the water p1$$n out).

IF it still leaks big time...WHOA!!! Stop crying!!! I'ts okay if its still leaking.... just settle down and take a look where you can see the leaks and mark where you see em. Empty out the container and let it dry then either repeat the process with more aplications of mat, or just another coat of resin.

IF it leaks a little bit (bit of a dribble) then you can raid the shed to find either some "tarzan's grip" glue, selley's gutter sealant (clear), some araldite, or as a worst case, some supa glue GEL and use it to plug up the holes. Mix up a soapy water solution or spit on ya index finger and use this to pat the glue down and push it into the seaping areas.

Eventually, you should successfully be able to block up the holes and have a completely sealed container.

Plug the hose and wires back on and fill with water to test if the pump still works properly. For the pump to push water, the pump must have water inside the impeller chamber.
If it is working but it isn't sucking water through then you may have to imerse it in water (to fill the pump chamber up again), or force the water through (by blowing into the top of the washer bottle filling hole, causing water to push through the pump.

And YAAAAAAY! you have fixed the bottle leak!!

:clap: good work - should get hyper to enter that into the 3rd gen faq :D

i'm from townsville
Been here long ?
:D