OKILY DOKILY......its nearly there.....nearly there....

Today I went down to Hi-Fi-Supermarket and bit the bullet, and bought;
6 Meters 2ga Power cable
1 Distrbution Block (1 x 0ga into 2 x 4ga)
1 Meter 4ga Earth Wire
2 Meters 4Ga power cable
3 Sets of Premium RCA Cables
and some offcuts of 14gaga speaker cable was thrown in....i reckon easy 15 meters or so.
Anyway The dood serving me was obvioulsy trying to get rid of this stuff so he gave most of it to me at a discount.
from memory the 2ga was $18 a meter and the 4ga was $12 a meter, and its all Aeropro.
i stupidly forgot the remote wire *do'h*
i was sure 5 meters of power cable would be fine, as its going to a distro block and then being split to the amps, but hell, 1 more meter wouldnt hurt....
i added up everything to be just under $320.....and i got it all for $200....not TOO bad i guess, but hell when you look at that red 2ga, you cant can't belive how much it costs!!!!
oh, Also the Distrobution block IS NOT FUSED.....is this a problem? do i need a fused one?
now all i need is the Fuse holder for the battery and some of those metal thingys that clamp onto the end of the ground wire for it to attach to the car body.
so far i have;
JVC KDG 615 - $240/$250
Clarion SRS 1625 - $130>
JBL GTO 936e - $130>
JBL GTO 1202D x 2 - $135
Precision Response 4 x 100WRMS - $220/$240
Precision Response Mono Class D 800W - $268/$310
and now all That is really left is the sub box, which will be getting started on tomorrow, and the SD, as money is VERY LOW at this point, it will be cheap paint on SD (Septone brand) from work, and if i can source it, some cheap mat form SD from autobarn...

anyway, thats basically where i am now, i would just like some feedback and tips on how to go about it, MitsiMonsta and Magnat have put together 100% of this system, so if it sounds good, this is a sign they do good stuff :)

anything i should be aware of?
anyone got some handy hints for installing this stuff?
etc etc....

anyway, hope to see some constructive responses :D
Cheers

EDIT*
Ive Included rough prices of what to expect to pay for some of these components
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/newcables005.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/newcables2001.jpg

I just put in that same headunit in my gen1, altho its not hooked up to anything like you've purchased (yet hehe) its a great headunit :D enjoy and goodluck with the install!

Nice equipment there.
$200 aint too bad at all.
When you're about to install it, give me a yell. I might come over for a peep if I can. :cool:

R u getting sound deadening, or did i just miss it on you list?

You just want to see me blow up my amps dont cha' lol
i was hoping to get it in before school starts but its like continuos 35 degree days next week.......f**k that!
but yeah ill see how things pan out after the sub box is finished........things can wait :)

EDIT*

yeah ill be going super cheap on the SD, as you can see, starting from a budget of 1K.....then to 1.5K and well out of that 1.5K i aint got much left, so i will be getting some cheap paint on deadning, and the cheap mat form deadning from autobarn, it should be enough to do my doord and probably bootlid, but we will see how this turns out

YAY! PICCIES!!!
Nice stuff :)
14AWG speaker wire should be enough for your setup!

Tips are Basically:

Disconnect the battery. In fact, take it out completely.

Double check all your wiring polarity before putting the battery back in. Use a multimeter if possible or unsure. It can make things go boom.

If the distro block is unfused, it's not a huge problem, but you will need to fuse each output as close as you can to the distro block. Just those clear plastic AWG fuseholders are fine.

I would recommend removing all the seats, and the carpet too. Makes things easier. Door trims on the front will need to come off too.

When you install, run from the grounds, to your amp, out of the amp to the distro (remember to fuse) and then the distro block run the 2AWG to the fuse near the battery. You need to fuse as close as you can to the battery and definitley within 45cm.

Add another 1 metre length of 2 guage from the ground (body/chassis) to the negative terminal of the battery. There will be too much current in 2 guage cable to make it's way back through the vehicle grounds, you have to create a full path for the power to flow from the battery, to and through the amp, into the ground, and back to the battery. Consider a couple of lengths of 8AWG bolted to various locations around the engine bay to the body at one point, and then add a nice fat 2 guage (or even a bit of 0AWG) to the negative terminal.
There are pics on FHRX's site about how to do this. Look for the pics of earthing kits.

Real mentalists will also add extra earths to bigger grounding points from around the point of where you earth the amps. They make up small cables and add them from close to the earth point, to somewhere more substantial like a chassis bolt point. The easier the current can flow, the better and louder it sounds.

Remember to measure once, twice, three times. Check all your measurements carefully.

Any wire should be fine for a remote wire, just that crappy hookup stuff will do the trick. It's only 3V and almost no current.

Oh, and just for the record, Stinger Pro 4 Guage power wire is $20 per metre, so 2 guage Aeropro isn't too bad at $19/m.

Most imporantly, have fun.

try having a chat to ralliart 410, he might be able to help you with sound deadening, cheap non paint on :D

Will do mate, but i still need battery terminals (another $80 there, or roundabouts) and a few other farty things like ring terminals etc.

on that note;

WTD; 2 Battery Terminals, + & -, Gold Plated, Good Condition, If anyone can help me out in this department, Give me a PM:D

I hope youre smart enough to have bought an alarm system aswell as i doubt your insurance company will cover the costs of your new stereo.....

...

................

................nah, havent got one yet, i was going to get one professioanlly installed once this was done/i have money again.

ill talk to my mum about how the insurance will go now

I hope youre smart enough to have bought an alarm system aswell as i doubt your insurance company will cover the costs of your new stereo.....

...

................

ssshhhhh......[tufftr] whats your address :bowrofl:
jk...he's got a point, you need an alarm/immobiliser. May aswell get them at the same time.
i'm putting my alarm/immobiliser currently, i have been for the last 5 months, i'm lazy :bowrofl:

']................nah, havent got one yet, i was going to get one professioanlly installed once this was done/i have money again.

ill talk to my mum about how the insurance will go now


What TUFF MEANT to say was

" Yes I have Upgraded the Factory Security but IF I told you what Alarm I have used it would then only be ruining the Suprise"

How are you mounting the amps, sub, speakers?

front doors, parsel shelf, boot (sub), boot (amps)?

']
anything i should be aware of?
anyone got some handy hints for installing this stuff?
etc etc....




All I can say is: double and tripple check you earths are large enough and are connected properly.
I found this out the hard way: cry:

Magnat - yep thats what i meant :D

How are you mounting the amps, sub, speakers?
front splits will be in the door, tweeter will dangle there until i find a nice position for it to be in.
amps; one will be mounted vertcially on either side of the boot
subs; in dual ported box in the middle of the boot.

and im setting back a whole day from early morning to late night to get everything done (if need be more, that shall be done) i will double friggen triple check everything beofre i go "yay lets turn it on!!"......*pop*........."ooooooh crap"
all the earths will be connected to the body with ring terminals (thats what there used for yes?) and will be same ga as power (4ga coming from 2ga after distribution block)
im taking Mitsi's idea and running a short piece of 2ga wire from the chassis to the negative terminal on the battery, makes sense really.

Cheers peeps....

Installing stuff is easy as long as you take your time and pace yourself. I like to do in this order:

Headunit
Amp power cables
Amp RCA / Remote Wire
Amp Grounds
Amp speaker wire
Fix amps
Prepare and deaden doors
Front Speakers
Rear speakers
Subs in boot
Deaden Boot.
Put everything back in.

I wouldn't worry to much, all you gear if set up right will have fuses so the most you will do is blow a fuse, if you groundings are not right the amp will go into protection, turn it off then on again once you have properly grounded it... easy...

Should sound... loud and ok I suppose.

sweet mate thanks for the little list, at the moment i have some people on CAA working out the fuse size i need for the one next to the battery, so once that gets sorted out i just have to buy that, the fuse, 2 more ring terminals, and the battery terminals.

i already have an aftermarket Deck in, so im told its alot easier to wire this one in. Hell i hope thats the case after my f**ked HU install in my dad's EL...haha, research does help :)

It only The HU Install that im fretting about, becuase the rest is straight forward, power, and earth, bloody Piece Of Pi55 lol............if i can get this right 1st time i will be one happy camper :D

Cheers doods and doodettes

Just add up all the fuses on the amps on the powerline to find the current draw. Fuse can be less than this but shouldnt go higher.

Fuse is there to protect the cable.

i was told 180A was exsessive, so i asked the question on CAA aswell, i think im getting the vibe i need a 160-180A fuse, so all is good, rather check these things and know what im doing BEFORE i venture into this dark scary world, otherwise known as car audio installations


Fuse is there to protect the cable.
Really?

You dont want your Power cable to turn into a 5 m long Toaster element do you ?
The Fuse is there To Blow at the battery..n Thats why You need to install one 30cm after the Battery , so the Current will only Heat up 30cm of Wire before Blowing the Fuse..

You could put a 100 amp fuse in and it probably would never blow. If it does, just up it to a 150. I doubt you would ever have that much current draw short of spl burps.

Even then...

Big cables and small fuses is the safest way to go. ANL fuses have the least voltage drop. (also the most exxy)

Peace

Tim

taken from CAA;


from the above, at full volume, your system should not draw more than 100A in total. that's still huge, and for normal loud listening, it probably won't draw more than 20~30A (my system is around 2kW and only draws ~30A off a mains power supply at loud volumes; obviously i don't run it as loud as it goes normally).

so i would suggest:
*4awg main powerwire is ample; 2awg is obviously fine, but more expensive
*a 100~200A main fuse near the battery is fine IF using 2awg, or 100~150A if using 4awg; this is the suitable range from which to choose (if it's less than 100A, you may face a 'nuisance blow' under normal use, and over 150A is too big for 4awg, and 2awg is rated to ~225A, so anything bigger is too big)
*run the main powerwire to a suitable DB
*using 4awg from DB to amps is fine; could use cheaper 8awg to the 4-channel
*note that 4awg is rated to ~150A, and 8awg to ~80A; this means IF the main fuse near the battery is bigger than any of these, you MUST use a fused-DB and have smaller fuses in the DB; eg: if using 4awg from DB to amp but have a 200A main fuse, the 4awg is not adequately protected cos that fuse is too big, so you must have a fused-DB and use a fuse smaller than 150A there
*for groundwires, use the same gauge as the powerwire feeding to the amp (eg: 4awg or 8awg)

given the fuses are bigger than 80A, you MUST use the larger wafer style ANL fuses. these have a big enough contact patch between fuse and holder to cope with high current flow. DON'T use the maxiblade or 5AG ones, as they can overheat and warp/melt (i've seen it). i think using a 100A or 125A main fuse is ideal, and means you don't need a fused-DB if you're only stepping down from 2awg to 4awg.


so basically i know now, there is no chance i will be using anywhere near 180A, or even 130A, so for that reason ill start looking for a 100-120A fuse.
looks like i got just about everything sorted here, oh and yes, sorry Mitsi i had to delete some of your PM's so just re-itteratting (sp)
Run power Cable Down same side As battery;
RCA's down The Middle;
Speaker Cable Down Other Side.

i think thats about everything i need, i only have to pick up some more ring terminals, fuse, holder, and battery terminals and ill nearly be set....

Cheers for the help everyone

i only have 12.73V left in my battery....should i buy a new one before the stereo goes in?......im sure batterys are supposed to have something like 13-14V

:confused: :confused: :confused:

']i only have 12.73V left in my battery....should i buy a new one before the stereo goes in?......im sure batterys are supposed to have something like 13-14V

:confused: :confused: :confused:
charge it, or pay out another $50+ for a new battery, your choice

i can get a Bosch GOLD battery from work for like $80 with a 3 yr warrenty :D so i might get one of those.

or yeah, when the battery is out for stereo installation, ill try and run it flat somehow, and charge it striaghtafter....

i was hoping it was still good:(