Now i'm quite intrested to find out much fuel everyone elses TM-TN-TP uses?

I just got 525km in my 88 TN Elite with no O/D, Is that good or bad?

I used to get 650km out of TP Executive wagon, pizza delivering.

i used to get any where from 480 to 580 on a tank depending on how i drove

i get about 450-550 id say
mostly around the 450 mark :badgrin:

E1 gets about 590 Km with PULP or 98 Octane fuel, 400 if I am lucky on standard.

So do the different grades of fuel make much difference?
The hand book says unleaded, but Cartman has just said he gets a masive difference, and at only a few cents difference in price between unleaded and premium then I am happy to pay the extra.
I am going to take the old girl for a run tomorrow with a fuel flush in it, I doubt if it has ever been done in the past.

So do the different grades of fuel make much difference?
The hand book says unleaded, but Cartman has just said he gets a masive difference, and at only a few cents difference in price between unleaded and premium then I am happy to pay the extra.
I am going to take the old girl for a run tomorrow with a fuel flush in it, I doubt if it has ever been done in the past.

fuels will only make a real difference depending on what your car is tuned for.

mine was perfectly set for leaded according to the dyno, so the closest thing to that, would be 98 octane petrol, thus i get a few extra km's out of prem, then normal unleaded.

depending on how a unleaded car is tuned, that when u try out the prem, some will notice a difference, others wont (other than the $$ of course :P)

So do the different grades of fuel make much difference?
The hand book says unleaded, but Cartman has just said he gets a masive difference, and at only a few cents difference in price between unleaded and premium then I am happy to pay the extra.
I am going to take the old girl for a run tomorrow with a fuel flush in it, I doubt if it has ever been done in the past.
I get a massive difference with my new engine. The car is tuned for standard unleaded but seems to chew it. the car doesnt really need to be uptuned for higher grades of fuel, the oxygen sensor can sense when the mixture needs to be adjusted.

I am running a TR engine with 9.2:1 compression instead of 8.8:1 in the standard TN. When I get around to putting my brand spanking new block together with a shaved TR/S head and flat top pistons I should get around 10:1 compression :)

i thought the tr/s had dome top pistons that gave better compression not the head?

head also has some changes in the combustion chamber

You guys have some nice cars,
mine is in desperate need of a tune but being a student means that I am trying to do everying on the cheap, although a new set of plugs can't be too far away.
I usually just tune my cars by ear with good results and putting it on the dyno is not an option, but it is an efi and pulls hard upto about 5500 RPM. I am usually only doing short runs in it and only the occasional (aprox monthly) doing a 200 -500 km run and Mitsubishi have never been known for haveing fuel efficient cars.

What sort of top speed are you guys getting, I have only had the car a few weeks and the only time I wound it up it went to 150 pretty quick before running out of road and finding that the brakes at that speed are at best "average". I will being taking it out for a run in the next week or so and hope to find some slightly longer roads, but this is Tasmania and there seems to be a cop on every corner. Sometimes I wish I was back in the NT where you drove at the speed you were comfortable with or in the case of my falcon, 195, as the limiter would kick in at 200 and only give you power again at 180, which I thought was quite dangerous.
Anyway, cheers guys and it is good that you enjoy your cars, they are much better than the cars I learnt to drive in.

i thought the tr/s had dome top pistons that gave better compression not the head?
Dished top pistons will actually reduce compression because you are creating more space in the combustion chamber. The head on the TR/S is the difference, the combustion chambers are shaped differently. Take a look at this -
http://magna.trynsave.net/index.php?title=Astron_II_Differences

Now, if you put flat top pistons in a car with the 2nd gen head you should increase the compression above 9.2:1

You guys have some nice cars,
mine is in desperate need of a tune but being a student means that I am trying to do everying on the cheap, although a new set of plugs can't be too far away.
I usually just tune my cars by ear with good results and putting it on the dyno is not an option, but it is an efi and pulls hard upto about 5500 RPM. I am usually only doing short runs in it and only the occasional (aprox monthly) doing a 200 -500 km run and Mitsubishi have never been known for haveing fuel efficient cars.

What sort of top speed are you guys getting, I have only had the car a few weeks and the only time I wound it up it went to 150 pretty quick before running out of road and finding that the brakes at that speed are at best "average". I will being taking it out for a run in the next week or so and hope to find some slightly longer roads, but this is Tasmania and there seems to be a cop on every corner. Sometimes I wish I was back in the NT where you drove at the speed you were comfortable with or in the case of my falcon, 195, as the limiter would kick in at 200 and only give you power again at 180, which I thought was quite dangerous.
Anyway, cheers guys and it is good that you enjoy your cars, they are much better than the cars I learnt to drive in.
I tune my car using nothing more than a multimeter and timing light, the EFI system on these cars is amazing for it's time and can report everything to you if you know where to look :)

As for top end, I know my car can be wound off the speedo fairly easily. I am lucky in that with Elante suspension I dont have to worry about corners all that much, they handle so well ;)

hmmm time for a new head :) running out of mods that <> new ecu, question 1st gen efi bolts onto 2nd gen head or could i adapt over my tb to the plenum?

hmmm time for a new head :) running out of mods that <> new ecu, question 1st gen efi bolts onto 2nd gen head or could i adapt over my tb to the plenum?
The heads on the Magnas all interchange. You can also put the EFI straight on.

I was going to adapt the TR EFI to my car but it wont fit in the engine bay properly. When the engine rocks it would hit the firewall.

TR/TS EFI engines have different combuistion chambers, cam and roller rockers.

A TR/S EFI head on a TM-P block should give a fair amount of compression.

:rant: I recently purchased a Magne glx 1989 which goes really well, it had only 730000 k on the clock. ( I think it belonged to the original old lady who only drove it to church on Sundays !) However it has one annoying problem.. the fuel guage does not work, it works sometimes but more often than not it does not work. Can any one help me fix this problem ???. Acording to the owners manuel it is an electronis guage in the tank. :bowrofl:

if it works everyso often im saying its the fuel sender unit in the tank, 3 screws and its out, replace it with one where the float runs on the coils, and push the coils to make sure it springs back

undefinedThanks Mad lante' I will try that, but has the tank got to be empty before I remove the old sender???. :shock:

undefinedThanks Mad lante' I will try that, but has the tank got to be empty before I remove the old sender???. :shock:
ive explained in the pm :D

Thank you once again Mad Lante' i removed the sender and it seems to be working fine, Now can you tell me where in the Dash I can find the volt regulater. Please dont tell me to take the dash off ! as I wouldnt have a clue how to begin. :shock:

Thank you once again Mad Lante' i removed the sender and it seems to be working fine, Now can you tell me where in the Dash I can find the volt regulater. Please dont tell me to take the dash off ! as I wouldnt have a clue how to begin. :shock:
nar only need to take the speedo cluster out, the voltage regulator provides a constant 7v to the fuel and temp gauge, its best to just buy a new one from mitsi then get one from a wrecker
to take the cluster out remove the 2 black vent clip thingos (watch out there known to break) then unscrew the 2 screws underneath, then remove the black surround then unscrew the 4 screws that hole the cluster in the dash, next unplug everything from behind.... then some where on the back you will find the little sucker its got 2 screws holding it in, if you do a search i think youll find someone posted pictures and a write up about it

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15267&highlight=volt+regulator

^^ there you go

also did u remember to test the sender unit while it was out of the tank, eg get some one to put the car on 'on' and watch the needle while you moved the float??