Howdy all,

Dont use the torque settings in the workshop manual as you are guaranteed to crack the rocker cover...

Luckily they only cost $17 down at the wreckers!

O and KB, i sprayed the TB with carby cleaner while running, then gave the butterfly a quick clean when i turned it off... Worked a treat!

Ill still pull it off though and give it a decent clean as its pretty dirty behind it.

Those rocker covers are total POS and poorly designed.

While you've got the cover off, you should paint it :).

While you've got the cover off, you should paint it :).
heh, its a 4 banger.. No point in making the engine bay pretty.. Im not gonna pretend its something its not.

I used a Kingchrome torque wrench with a socket on the end.. No bits in between, not sure what calculation youd use there except for whats on the wrench dial..

It just seemed to tight anyhow when i was tightening.. (turned out to be true with the cover cracking)

O and KB, i sprayed the TB with carby cleaner while running, then gave the butterfly a quick clean when i turned it off... Worked a treat!


Tops!!! Glad it worked :D

If you use an extension spanner on the end of a torque wrench, the torque applied to the nut is greater than that shown on the torque wrench dial.

If the torque wrench has a length L, and the extension spanner a length E (overall length of L+E) than:

TRUE TORQUE= DIAL READING X (L+E)/L

i.e the torque will be increased.

BOLLOCKS.......

the torque wrench *CLICKS* when it gets to the torque setting. Wether the handle is 20cm or 4 metres 50nM is still 50nM. all that will change is the amount of effort required to get the nut to that torque.

BOLLOCKS.......

the torque wrench *CLICKS* when it gets to the torque setting. Wether the handle is 20cm or 4 metres 50nM is still 50nM. all that will change is the amount of effort required to get the nut to that torque.

haha OMG!!! someone who actually knows something about torque settings :thumbsup:
and ur right BTW..
it doesn't matter how long the damn torque wrench is.. its just easier to tighten with a longer wrench :)
cheers

makes a big differance weather you use a cheep one or expencice one too

they are cheep for a reason

makes a big differance weather you use a cheep one or expencice one too

they are cheep for a reason
true.. but id hardly call a $140 torque wrench cheap.

actually torque is reduced at the fastener head due to flexing in the extension pieces.
this is very easy to prove using a easily accesible head or suspension bolt or any fastener that can take a fair amount of torque. first tension the fastener to the correct tension but use two long extension bars between the socket and the tension wrench. once it is tensioned remove the extension bars and recheck the tension the fastener will be found to be undertensioned.

On light settings you will have no worries with an extension.

With head bolts, wheel nuts etc, you will loose torque.

I have never had a cover crack using the correct settings, are you sure you read the right settings and did not set metric to imperial :)

The other thing with the 4cyl is the cover for the water pump pully, be careful not to over tighten these as when you next remove it you will break the back lug....another rocker cover then needed.

With the TB, you can give it a quick clean however do it properly, you will need an "O" ring and a gasket for the air bypass valve, this is a weird gasket you need to get from Mits.

Here is a little write up I did a while ago.

Most of the Mitsubishi EFI engines, just like most fuel injected engines, have a problem in regards to oil and sludge build up at the throttle body. This is caused from the breather tube in the induction pipe breathing oily vapour. This will cause a restriction in the air flow through the throttle plate thus less air will get through at idle and the idle speed may drop. In Magnas, both 4cyl and 6cyl this may cause a slightly rough idle. In the initial stages you will not notice as the Idle Speed system should compensate. As the car builds up mileage the problem will get worse as the internals wear and you get more blow by (this is when combustion gasses escape past the piston rings or past valve stem seals and build up pressure in the crankcase.) So how to fix, read below........(this is based on a V6 Magna however most Mitsubishis will be similar)

What you will need:

I am a strong believer that when ever you remove a part that has a gasket it is wise to replace that gasket as it will not compress a second time thus you may not get a good seal.

Gaskets required (this is for the KR/S V6)
1/ Throttle body to inlet manifold
2/ Gasket between air bypass and TB Is a funny shape rubber "O" ring. (this is the bit the coolant pipes connect to)
3/ "O" ring for the ISC Motor
4/ "O" ring for idle speed screw. Mitsubishi do not list them but if you go to Bursons or Repco you will be able to get one the same size.
5/ Vaseline or rubber grease
6/ Carburettor cleaner, Wynns is the best one I know of.
7/ A small artist paintbrush for cleaning galleries, pref one that is horse hair and not painted handle as the carb cleaner will make a mess.



What to do:
Removing the Throttle Body.

Remove the induction pipe, breather pipe and the air filter cover.

Disconnect the throttle cable.Remove the 2 bolts under the rear of the TB from the mounting bracket. (12mm)

With the engine cold, remove then replace the radiator cap to ensure there is no pressure in the cooling system. You will now be able to remove the 2 coolant pipes and if you are careful you should not loose any coolant. You can plug these to stop coolant loss if you wish.

Disconnect the ISC motor wiring and the TPS wiring, be careful not to loose the metal clip that retains the plugs.

Remove the 4 Retaining bolts (12mm)


Dismantling the Throttle Body.
Remove Throttle Position Switch

Remove air control valve (be careful of the screw heads as they are prone to be very tight. If this is a problem tap a hammer on top of the screw driver to help loosen them) You may wish to secure the TB in a vice but be very careful and use some soft pine to insulate it from the vice jaws.

Using 8mm socket, loosen and remove Idle Speed Motor.

Remove Air Screw.

Give throttle body a VERY good clean with carb cleaner paying particular attention to the air bypass passages etc

Give air valve a good clean again paying particular attention to air passages. hint when cleaning through passages a small artists paint brush is ideal. Make sure it is a good one so the carb cleaner does not dissolve it.


Reassembling the Throttle Body.
Reassemble the air valve and isc. I ALWAYS use new "O" rings and gaskets which in total will cost about 20 dollars. You will find if you use the old gasket between the throttle body and air valve will swell being rubber. if this happens and you do not have a new one handy use a tiny bit of Vaseline to hold it in place. Do not use bearing grease as it will damage the rubber.

Refit the TPS. To set the TPS, open the throttle and place a .5mm feeler gauge in the throttle stop. using a multimeter set the TPS so it is "just" open circuit with this minor opening. (pin 1 & 3 on TPS)

Refit throttle body to car, start and warm up. BE SURE THAT THE THROTTLE BODY GASKET IS FITTED THE RIGHT WAY ROUND, THE LITTLE TAB HAS TO BE TO THE REAR ON TOP.


While cleaning disconnect battery. when all has been re assembled hold foot on acc to floor, turn ignition to on without starting and hold here for 30 seconds. this will reset isc motor.


Start car and bring up to operating temp. stop engine and bridge wire in engine bay behind left strut tower, is usually a beige one but check if unsure. this will turn off the isc. Mitsubishi states idle should be 700 in neutral but I have found it is better at around 850. Only use air screw to adjust as the throttle stop screw should never be touched. (hint, on some models this plug is in different places, fine someone who can show you the right plug and ALWAYS us a fused bridge wire)

I hope this is a help. I have done the many many times and in 95 percent of cases the you would never tell the car is running after this has been done

wikked!

is it basically the same for 4bangers?

i cleaned my TB in-car (aswell as changing the breather hoses and cleaning the PCV) and it made a HUGE difference.

even if its on the car give it a go, you think after a service they check this stuff but in reality its never been cleaned, so imagine how much crap is sitting on it.

my PCV hose was over 50% blocked, so time takes its toll...