My handbreak sucks..

I pull it up and it just does not a lot!!

while the car is still it holds it but otherwise its really really ...

well not that effective!!!

Ive gone around a few corners and pulled it to no avail!!

hahaha as in NOTHING HAPPENS!!!

and i just want to get my car sideways!!!!

I could do it in the wet with my datsun 200b.. oooh memories....

Coming out of Midland tafe car park and the rear going out..... and the people behind me just looking at this anal brown peice of shit datto just getting sideways..... and them laffing!!

So how do i make my handbreak murder like lockup!? well better than what it is!!

the hand brakes naturally arent that strong (as they are made mainly to hold, not stop!)....

but, maybe look at the adjustment, you may be able to tighten it some so it comes on quicker and you can give it more of a tug?!?!

if u cant be stuffed adjusting, hit the normal brakes for a split second so the weight transfers forward then pull the handbrake, thats the only way i got my mums 323 sideways. If that still dont work, then u've got a really really shit handbrake.

it should lock if you pull up fair enough,

on my old TM, after i changed the brake pads, I couldn't do handbrake turns no more as it had no grip for some unknown reason, well, after a few tries, it grip again and I was going sideways again. so, if it really doesn't grip even if you were pulling it all the way up, then you may want to try to adjust *shorten* the headbrake wire, this can be done at the centre console, but you may want to have something that will clamp it in place before you losen it.

the alternative is to roughen your brake discs and de-glaze your brake pads, requires a bit of work taking the wheels off and brake pads off, but the end result may be better.

good luck, try not to kill your tyres too much though, as I learnt the hard way.

cheers

in TM, N and P models the handbrake is disk operated. In later models it is a drum inside the rear disk which when the little shoes are ok and it is adjusted properly will lock wheels it a sharp enough application however do not expect it too last too long as it was not designed this way.
As for the TM brake not gripping after the brake pad change this is because the calipers were not wound back properly when installing the pads.

The TE+ (not sure of pre TE) use a seprate drum setup for the handbrake, so de-glazing the discs will not help the handbrake, but a good idea for normal braking.

If you handbrake is easy to pull up(feels light) and/or clicks more than 6 times it needs tightening. If it needs only a small amount of tension you can DIY easy.

1. open you center consol (the thing behind the handbrake with a lid)
2. Remove the tray inside it by just pulling it out
3. Inside you will see 2 black cables coming from the rear end of the car and joining together onto 1 black cable going towards the hand brake lever.
4. you will see a long nut(tension adjusment bolt thing) simly turn it left or right (you will notice wich direction tightens) until ur handbrake only clicks between 3 and 5 clicks.

If it still doesn't lock up then you will need to get it adjusted at the hubs. This you can also do yourself, but i'm not to sure on how it is done as I had it done when got some new tyres fitted.

They remove this cap/screw on the face of the hub, near the center (once the wheel is removed, at the rear ofcourse) and spin the hub foward a couple times by hand, adjust somthing inside the hole wioth a screwdriver and spin it agin. They did this a few times then returned the cap and took it for a test drive. There was a little bit of squeeking from the back for a few days until the handbrake pads wore in and always locks up now even in the dry :D

As phonic Said it is easy to adjust it under the centre console....
Follow the instructions and it will come on REAL QUICK...
Mine was so slack... I had to pull it into the back seat to stop...
Then I adjusted it like Phonic said and now I lift it a few cm's and it locks up fully...
GREAT for a 180' turn at trafic islands :D

Haydn

Sorry guys, I am not trying to proove you wrong but adjusting the hand brake in this fassion is only going to stretch cables.
For TR to current here is the proper way as far as Mitsubishi is concerned to adjust these handbrakes, the above method will work but is ot the correct method.

1/ raise rear of car.
2/ remove centre console and then loosen the nut until cables are loose.
3/ remove the plugs behind the disks that cover the brake drum adjusters, mostly top for sedans and bottom for wagons except TR will always be on the bottom of the backing plate
4/rorate the adjuster until the disk JUST binds and will not turn, then back off adjuster 5 notches.
5/ Apply handbrake a few times to re centralise the handbrake shoes.
6/ Now tighten the cables until you have about 3 or so notches to engage the handbrake.
7/ put your car back together.

This is the way to do a correct adjustment. Remember on the TM - P the method is totally different.

Agreed.. If the handbrake is continually adjusted at the cable for TE and on, and not at the brake shoe you will get binding and locking on problems.

the hand brakes naturally arent that strong (as they are made mainly to hold, not stop!)....

but, maybe look at the adjustment, you may be able to tighten it some so it comes on quicker and you can give it more of a tug?!?!

He dun need his magna for a tug hehehe :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks Scubasteve, your spot on.
Had a car here the other day, been serviced by Mitsubishi, getting rear wheel binding, was a TR, Mitsu qas quoting insane amounts of $$ for new rear calipers etc saying the calipers were binding even though the pads were nt wearing like one would expect. Adjusted the hand brake proberly and what do you know, problem solved.

1/ raise rear of car.
2/ remove centre console and then loosen the nut until cables are loose.
3/ remove the plugs behind the disks that cover the brake drum adjusters, mostly top for sedans and bottom for wagons except TR will always be on the bottom of the backing plate
4/rorate the adjuster until the disk JUST binds and will not turn, then back off adjuster 5 notches.
5/ Apply handbrake a few times to re centralise the handbrake shoes.
6/ Now tighten the cables until you have about 3 or so notches to engage the handbrake.
7/ put your car back together.


i had my handbrake "fixed" under warranty ages back (its was pulling on one side more than the other!!.... and i bet all the lazy buggers did was dodgy way (in the console)!!! cause it still aint right, but they were like "it works fine, why do you want to pull it on when you still moving anyway" :roll: , i'm like "err.... in an emergency maybe! its dangerous"

Well do I be needin to say any more?

opppsssss :oops: , maybe my method wasn't such a good idea :(

My mums TF still locks up fine using my method, but it only needed a little bit of tightening. If the handbrake is really loose then do it propperlly