could anyone possibly tell me where the distributor is on a '93 TR 3.0?

ive been told that by checking and cleaning the distributor plug might solve my rough idling and stalling problem, but I have no idea what it looks like?

thanks in advance.

Brian.

OK, you see the leads that lead into the engine, could be blue, black or any colour depending on brand, there will be 6 of them. These are called spark plug leads, trace these back from the engine and they will lead to the distributr cap.
Dunno about v6 but on the 4 its just to the right of the engine.

OK, you see the leads that lead into the engine, could be blue, black or any colour depending on brand, there will be 6 of them. These are called spark plug leads, trace these back from the engine and they will lead to the distributer cap.

thanks, i suspected that was it, the information ive been given says that theres a plug with a silver spring clip on top of the distributor with four wires going into it, and that i need to disconnect this, and clean it with metho and reconnect, im not 100% sure what i am doing, should i give it a go dya reckon?

thanks again

Brian.

Hello Brian,

here's some photos that may help

TG

Here are some more.

TG

Silly question here but I'm about to pull of my dizzy cap to give it a clean to try and fix my engine stuttering issues...... I am a little worried about pulling off this part that sits on the intake attached to a toothed spindle. Will it automatically set itself in the correct position again when i turn on the car?

Cheers

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19740&d=1140934828

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19737&d=1140934828

Good question - what is it, what does it do?

Following this thread closely. I think mine has the same engine stuttering issues as yours, Peter_Pan.

Stutter? Mine misfires occasionally on light throttle. How much/where can I get a new cap and rotor?

any parts supplier can get you a cap and rotor. ripco/supercrap/walkers

When i serviced my v6 12valve i pulled the dizzy cap off and replaced the rotor as well. to get to it i undid all the other crap on the manifold and then replaced with no prob.

Its very tight so take your time and you'll be right.

The cap and rotor only goes on one way so that's easy but remember where the spark leads go!

Well I just pulled it off anyway and took off the dizzy cap. Rotor and cap contacts were very dirty and had buildup from bad contact between the two.

I cleaned them up with a flathead screwdriver and then some sandpaper and put it back on, started fine (so no problems disconnecting that thing attached to the intake)

Just got back from test driving it and it is no longer a dog taking off, and going up hills seems to be fine. It was stuttering badly up hills and an absolute dog to drive when the revs were under 3k (felt like a 4 banger). I will go and buy a new cap and dizzy shaft tomorrow and change them to hopefully improve it even more. Plugs and leads have been changed recently so can't be them.

Unfortunately there is still a rough idle, but this car has always had that on and off. Misses badly, even with the idle wound up a bit (on the throttle body)

Good to see your having a go!


If the idle is ruff this may fix it.

If the idle is up and down get a new Idle solenoid off eBay for under $100..

Dont play with the idel screw it just covers up other probs!

Idle is very rough (missing)...... although seems to be working properly in terms of revs fluctuation. It corrects itself properly when the a/c or thermofans come on and off etc.

check:

airflow meter
air filter
o2 sensor
change your dizzy cap and rotor and make sure you plug the leads back into the same spots
check and clean throttle body
check idle speed motor and change as necessary
clean TPS, ISC and dizzy cap plugs
run fuel system cleaner next time you fill up. if it gets better then maybe time to clean your injectors

Idle is very rough (missing)...... although seems to be working properly in terms of revs fluctuation. It corrects itself properly when the a/c or thermofans come on and off etc.

Clean connectors to the AFM and fuel injectors with some contact cleaner and a tooth brush.

I got a new one from mits, it was about $100, I recomend gap your spark plugs to 0.8 also, it will get rid of the cutting out

but your problem is idle speed controller if its stalling, its very common on the v6's, you ant fix them its just best to replace

Thanks for the replies guys, I am adamant I have figured it out and now fixed it.

My temporary fix of cleaning the dizzy cap and rotor seemed to work for a bit but quickly deteriorated

New Dizzy cap and rotor button and the car is now NO LONGER MISSING AT IDLE, NO LONGER MISSING UNDER LOAD WHEN DRIVING AND NO LONGER MISSING WHEN STOPPED IN DRIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

$90 for cap, $20 for rotor button

Tested with the engine hot, it takes off without missing and spluttering at me (It will actually chirp the wheels now)

If all goes well driving it tomorrow I will declare this problem solved.

I turned the manual idle (screw on the TB) right down and the car is now idling at 800rpm without missing, and is still keen to move in gear.

The only annoyance that seems to remain is a slight variation in revs at idle. The engine seems to be over-correcting itself in it's idle adjustments..... im not sure if it is normal for it to do this but it seems to oscillate between 800-900RPM constantly every few seconds (tested with aircon off).

Should it do this?

@SIVART, where is the ISC and what specifically does it do?

Thanks for the replies guys, I am adamant I have figured it out and now fixed it.

My temporary fix of cleaning the dizzy cap and rotor seemed to work for a bit but quickly deteriorated

New Dizzy cap and rotor button and the car is now NO LONGER MISSING AT IDLE, NO LONGER MISSING UNDER LOAD WHEN DRIVING AND NO LONGER MISSING WHEN STOPPED IN DRIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

$90 for cap, $20 for rotor button

Tested with the engine hot, it takes off without missing and spluttering at me (It will actually chirp the wheels now)

If all goes well driving it tomorrow I will declare this problem solved.

I turned the manual idle (screw on the TB) right down and the car is now idling at 800rpm without missing, and is still keen to move in gear.

The only annoyance that seems to remain is a slight variation in revs at idle. The engine seems to be over-correcting itself in it's idle adjustments..... im not sure if it is normal for it to do this but it seems to oscillate between 800-900RPM constantly every few seconds (tested with aircon off).

Should it do this?

@SIVART, where is the ISC and what specifically does it do?

Good to hear!
Your ISC is located on your throttle body (lower left) and has a 6 pin plug on it. ISC Stands for Idle Speed Control (Someone correct me if I am wrong here) Its an electronic idle control so to say, it's a little electric motor which will move in and out to let more or less air in. This could be your problem....I'd go wreckers and pick a few up (usually very cheap > nothing) and give them a shot.

Oxysensor is a must replace on the 2nd gen if your having any of these problems.

Thanks TUff and Shinraa.

I will grab the ISC off my other Verada and test it, maybe the oxygen sensor too.

The oxy sensor is on the exhaust right? I think I have seen it before. Should I grab a second hand one off my other car or buy a new one. What would a new one set me back?

Was fine on the cruise today :facejump: :facejump: :facejump: Gave a TH a run for its money (not mentioning any names haha)

Cheers

Thanks TUff and Shinraa.

I will grab the ISC off my other Verada and test it, maybe the oxygen sensor too.

The oxy sensor is on the exhaust right? I think I have seen it before. Should I grab a second hand one off my other car or buy a new one. What would a new one set me back?

Was fine on the cruise today :facejump: :facejump: :facejump: Gave a TH a run for its money (not mentioning any names haha)

Cheers

Oxy sensor is located near your cat converter under the car, it'll be a bitch to get out, so make sure you have a nice lever bar and spanner!
New one Is around the $140~ish region (give or take)

']Oxy sensor is located near your cat converter under the car, it'll be a bitch to get out, so make sure you have a nice lever bar and spanner!
New one Is around the $140~ish region (give or take)

Hmmmmmm might try the second hand one first.

just pulled this out.... is this the ISC?

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9185/19042009064.jpg

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/1779/19042009065.jpg

Yep that's it, other thing on your TB is the TPS sensor.

Was fine on the cruise today :facejump: :facejump: :facejump: Gave a TH a run for its money (not mentioning any names haha)

Cheers
More to the point first time round TH spins into 3rd (speedo showing 140, car not moving) and second time stupid driver tried to accellerate with the brake pedal!

And that was post-cruise, not on the cruise FYI.

More to the point first time round TH spins into 3rd (speedo showing 140, car not moving) and second time stupid driver tried to accellerate with the brake pedal!

And that was post-cruise, not on the cruise FYI.

no one likes a sore loser buddy :woot:

no one likes a sore loser buddy :woot:
:bowrofl: