Hi there,

Is the removal of the inlet manifold a difficulty job on the 3rd Gen V6 - I probably need to replace my rear plugs as I am experiencing rough idling. Also, can you fit the platinum plugs on the front bank - any advantage in doing this?

thanks

LouisK

I wish they made it differently it kinda stupid. I'm new to East-West mounted motors but yeah i had a good look at mine, havent changed the plugs yet but its looks to be a timely job :(
Also under the bonnet of my TJ there is in RED writing (we all know red writing means danger lol) DO NOT FIT PLATINUM PLUGS TO THE FRONT BANK!!!! so i assume don't do it :)

i can get the manafold of in about 5 min with air tools not hard job at all

i can get the manafold of in about 5 min with air tools not hard job at all

Yeah, how many times have you done it though lol .

I've done the job 3 times now (with hand tools), and it isn't a difficult job, just a little time consuming, especially if you haven't done it before.

I can't think of any reason who you 'shouldn't' put platinum plugs in the front bank (other than the fact that there is no cost benefit - because the front bank plugs will only take 5mins to change..... so why bother putting in plugs which don't need to be changed for 100,000kms).

Maybe the big red sticker warning againt putting platinum plugs in the front bank is there for the benefit of the apprentice mechanics who, it would seem, work unsupervised in just about every mitsubishi service center.

i can get the manafold of in about 5 min with air tools not hard job at all

Getting it off with air tools is one thing, putting it back on with air tools? have fun ordering bolts, studs and nuts from the dealer after you strip threads and break stuff.

Seriously though, it should take no more then 30 mins to change all 6 plugs in the motor. And personally i'd go with iridium plugs for the lifetime of them.

i installed platinum plugs in the front bank at 95000 k's
car has now 165000
checked plugs last week no problems
th 3.5 l 1999

Well seems the sticker is wrong :D
I assumed the manifold would take a while, not hard but just time consuming.

Getting it off with air tools is one thing, putting it back on with air tools? have fun ordering bolts, studs and nuts from the dealer after you strip threads and break stuff.

Seriously though, it should take no more then 30 mins to change all 6 plugs in the motor. And personally i'd go with iridium plugs for the lifetime of them.


dont use a 1/2 drive use a 1/4 lol

yea air tools can snap bolts

i only use the air to un do and do up bolts once loose
and not to tighten

Don't bother using air tools in your engine bay, use a big hammer instead, it works on steering colums apparently....:bowrofl:

Seriously, it is not a hard job to remove the manifold. One trick is to ensure the motor is cold, remove the radiator cap and replace it to neutralise the colling system pressure, when you remove the 2 coolant pipes from the throttle body you will not loose coolant.

Just take it easy and you will be fine, I have a special plug remover from snap on and I have a set of old plug leads with the leads removed to remove and to refit the plugs, this ensures that the plug is not cross threaded.

lol you un do cooling pipes:nuts:

you can get away without undoing them

undo the rubber intake pipe to the throttle body
undo the crank sensor plug on the drivers side
undo all the bolts that bolt plenum to bottom manafold
undo the bolts at rear of plenum(near fire wall)
undo the accelerator cable and any earth wires if any


when you lift the plenum lift it towards the passenger side hold it up place a rag over manafold ports(incase you drop something in there) use a piece of timber to hold manafold up out of the way,,

bob is ya aunty :shock:

lol you un do cooling pipes:nuts:

you can get away without undoing them

undo the rubber intake pipe to the throttle body
undo the crank sensor plug on the drivers side
undo all the bolts that bolt plenum to bottom manafold
undo the bolts at rear of plenum(near fire wall)
undo the accelerator cable and any earth wires if any


when you lift the plenum lift it towards the passenger side hold it up place a rag over manafold ports(incase you drop something in there) use a piece of timber to hold manafold up out of the way,,

bob is ya aunty :shock:

Yes I do undo them to save crimping them and then damaging the cloth winding inside the rubber, then again I would not expect a kmart mechanic to know this. While off I also give the TB a quick clean.

As for your crap rag, I have proper inlet covers made up to ensure that no rubbish gets inside.

BTW, a brass drift would be better to hold it out of the way.....

Madmagna:Yes I do undo them to save crimping them and then damaging the cloth winding inside the rubber, then again I would not expect a kmart mechanic to know this. While off I also give the TB a quick clean.

lol hoses are made to flex and bend thats why they are rubber not steel

Madmagna:As for your crap rag, I have proper inlet covers made up to ensure that no rubbish gets inside.

i dont think everyone has that special cover:gtfo:

Madmagna:BTW, a brass drift would be better to hold it out of the way.....

timber doesnt move
__________________

and im not a kmart mechanic thats an insault

Thanks for tips.

Are there any gaskets to be replaced, and is it a good idea to spray some throttle body cleaner prior to re installing it?

thanks

Louis K

Technically you should replace any gasket that has been opened up (EGR, Plenum and Throttle Body). However they're also reusable to a degree so use your best judgement as to whether you really need to replace them all or not.

Also depending on the technique you use to remove it all you may not need to seperate the TB from the Plenum and thus no need to replace that gasket at all.

Seriously though, it should take no more then 30 mins to change all 6 plugs in the motor. And personally i'd go with iridium plugs for the lifetime of them.

i emailed NGK and they told me (although kinda new on the market) that iridium plugs are only 20000km plugs. are there others out there that are longer????

Put one of Barry's fuel rail kits on while your at it. I am doing it soon, and have found heaps of good feedback on it

What is Barry's Fuel Rail Kit, and where do I get one?

Also, What is the life of the leads? Mine have done 180K? Top Gun replacements any good?

Thanks

Fellas

magtone just copied this off the australian NGK site
so where did you get 20000 k's form
Type Service Life Benefits
Nickel Alloy 20,000 - 40,000 kms
Standard style of spark Plug.

Nickel Alloy (V-Groove) 20,000 - 40,000 kms
Improved ignitability due to sparking at periphery of the electrode.

Platinum 0.8 mm dia. 100,000 kms
Long service life and even better ignitability due to a small diameter centre electrode

Iridium 0.8 mm dia. 160,000 kms
Extremely long service life. Same level of ignitability 0.8 mm dia. Platinum

Iridium IX 0.6 mm dia. 60,000 kms
Long service life. Same as 0.8 mm dia. of Platinum and extremely good ignitability characteristics. (Better than 0.8 mm dia. platinu
m or 0.8 mm dia. iridium)

Here's where to get info about Barry's fuel rail kit.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25097

goodluck with the plugs :)

magtone just copied this off the australian NGK site
so where did you get 20000 k's form
Type Service Life Benefits
Nickel Alloy 20,000 - 40,000 kms
Standard style of spark Plug.

Nickel Alloy (V-Groove) 20,000 - 40,000 kms
Improved ignitability due to sparking at periphery of the electrode.

Platinum 0.8 mm dia. 100,000 kms
Long service life and even better ignitability due to a small diameter centre electrode

Iridium 0.8 mm dia. 160,000 kms
Extremely long service life. Same level of ignitability 0.8 mm dia. Platinum

Iridium IX 0.6 mm dia. 60,000 kms
Long service life. Same as 0.8 mm dia. of Platinum and extremely good ignitability characteristics. (Better than 0.8 mm dia. platinu
m or 0.8 mm dia. iridium)

just goes to show how much the tech guys know about their own products.:nuts: and i only emailed them like two months ago.