This is a manual/guide I created for people wanting to install Head Unit's in second gen magna's. I hope people find it useful, i've put a bit of effort into it.

It's in PDF format for easy viewing.

I hope it's useful to someone, enjoy!

Update(s):
04/03/2006 8:13pm
- Added finished product image
- Corrected various spelling and grammer mistakes
- Added information about wiring diagrams

great guide.. but i would put in a finished pic in there.

This is a manual/guide I created for people wanting to install Head Unit's in second gen magna's. I hope people find it useful, i've put a bit of effort into it.

It's in PDF format for easy viewing. If the mods would see fit, possibly make this a sticky :D

I hope it's useful to someone, enjoy!

Edit: Finished Product Pic added.

do you want me to post up the wiring diagrams of all the 2nd gens excluding veradas and the colour codes

If you could e-mail them to me, i'll make them a serperate PDF

If you could e-mail them to me, i'll make them a serperate PDF

ok i might get them to you sometime tonight, its a busy day :confused:

I read the instruction and I am concerned were you state to use a "firelighter to melt the platic on wires to expose the wires" I have never heard of this before and doesn't sound like good advice.

There a speacial pliers to strip the platsic of the wires and can be brought anyware.

I read the instruction and I am concerned were you state to use a "firelighter to melt the platic on wires to expose the wires" I have never heard of this before and doesn't sound like good advice.

There a speacial pliers to strip the platsic of the wires and can be brought anyware.

Very true, super cheap have em for $3, jaycar for $19:doubt: :doubt:

Only use a firelighter to melt the heatshrink

']Very true, super cheap have em for $3, jaycar for $19:doubt: :doubt:

Only use a firelighter to melt the heatshrink

dont use the firelighter to expose the wires as it is really not a good idea, use wire strippers or a stanley knife to weaken part of the plastic on the wire and pull it off (with wire strippers its simply put wire in hole, clamp hands together and pull depending on what kind it is)

i actually find heat shrink and soldering a rather annoying way to connect hu's or speakers, i use bullet connectors as it means im able to replace the speakers or hu with a lot more ease.

dont use the firelighter to expose the wires as it is really not a good idea, use wire strippers or a stanley knife to weaken part of the plastic on the wire and pull it off (with wire strippers its simply put wire in hole, clamp hands together and pull depending on what kind it is)

i actually find heat shrink and soldering a rather annoying way to connect hu's or speakers, i use bullet connectors as it means im able to replace the speakers or hu with a lot more ease.

Yeah Thats what i meant to say, thats How i do it aswell.

It's only as a make shift thing if you don't have access to anything else. It's not like you HAVE to use a lighter, common sense would prevale, if he had any.

my personall opinion is you should'nt cut the factory plug off either ... that's just dodgey

buy a wiring harnes that plugs into the stock 1 and goes to the aftermarket h/u or splice into the wires behind the factory plug and solder in the new headunit

never cut factory plugs off

my personall opinion is you should'nt cut the factory plug off either ... that's just dodgey

buy a wiring harnes that plugs into the stock 1 and goes to the aftermarket h/u or splice into the wires behind the factory plug and solder in the new headunit

never cut factory plugs off

k

goodluck finding a harness tho lol

they are out there i think aeropro ? does one

that or use electrical pins i thing they are called ... the crimp on over the h/u wiring harness and just slide into the factory plug ... it's how i done mine ... if i remember i'll take some pics of the next 1 i do at work

k

goodluck finding a harness tho lol

:stoopid:

they are out there i think aeropro ? does one

that or use electrical pins i thing they are called ... the crimp on over the h/u wiring harness and just slide into the factory plug ... it's how i done mine ... if i remember i'll take some pics of the next 1 i do at work

or you could just...cut the plug off. if the wires a correctly solidered and safely insulated, how is it any more dodgy than an adaptor? is one better because it came in a box?

or you could just...cut the plug off. if the wires a correctly solidered and safely insulated, how is it any more dodgy than an adaptor? is one better because it came in a box?

i cut the plug off because i dont see a point in buying a harness if i just use bullet connectors, means i can replace it with whatever i want and i already have the plugs i need and it doesnt matter what i change it to, and i have found it very useful when replacing my brothers speakers in his car as he manages to blow up every speaker he has every owned, its becoming less frequent, but it would be annoying if i didnt use bullet connectors, this way i have sufficient length wire regardless of whether its the cars wires or the equipment im installing

i cut the plug off because i dont see a point in buying a harness if i just use bullet connectors, means i can replace it with whatever i want and i already have the plugs i need and it doesnt matter what i change it to, and i have found it very useful when replacing my brothers speakers in his car as he manages to blow up every speaker he has every owned, its becoming less frequent, but it would be annoying if i didnt use bullet connectors, this way i have sufficient length wire regardless of whether its the cars wires or the equipment im installing

exactly.

Please note people. the cut and soldier method is not dodgy, in fact it is commonplace.

I don't soldier I get those plastic blocks from DickSmith that hobisit's use to wire up there projects makes things simple and easy to do and quick and also tidy.

the other reason i dont use adaptors is becuase some can be a real ***** to unplug where as i have never had a single problem with bullet connectors

when i wired up my gfs car, i went down to supercheap, and found a socket that plugged into her factory plug in her car, worked out which pic goes to what, soldered the new socket onto the wiring on the new pioneer cd player, All solder joints on the new socket -> hu were soldered and heat shrink wrapped. Whatever way. Soldering with heatshrink. Hardness converter or bullt plugs, what matters is a connection thats going to create the least amount of resistance. I'v even know dodgy people who twist wires together and left bare :| wtf

I set her HU the way idid because when she sells it she will be able to just unplug the new cd player hu and put back in the original one. No soldering and desoldering. or having to change anything for the old cd player. Yes its a bit of mucking around but in the end i think it will be worth it. Whoever had my TS before me cut off the original wiring plug grrr :rant: made me angry, but wat can you do. so i went and put bullet plugs on

go to repco in Salisbury (SA Members), my uncle works there. got one for the pioneer 6800 and has them for most pioneer models. came to around $30 All up. saves you the hassel of tryin to figure the s**t out yourself:D

If no ones mentioned it, in the guide it says front right positive and negative wiring colours is unknown. Well I just did my 93 TR exec and I can tell you on the original harness, black/white is fr negative and black is fr positive :)

Might want to update the pdf, if you can be bothered.

Great guide, helped me with my headunit heaps.

One thing I found, when unscrewing the screws under the little bin thing (ash tray?), don't leave them in there loose, cause theres a little plastic bridge thing above them, and theres a gap underneath, which you don't see just looking down at it, and the screws can get in there and it can be a real pain getting them out, I had to molest a paper-clip to fish it out.


And the for the Wiring Harness, just go to autObarn, and order in the Aerpro Mitsubishi Early Model two plug type, part number: AP7010 for second gens and up, and I think the Late Model single plug would be for first gens, but don't quote me on that, should have 11 pins, then it's the AP7011. They cost $15.

And for the poverty-pack second gen radio with only one plug, still get the harness with the two plugs, you only use the bigger plug, and you have to shift some wires arounds but thats pretty easy to do with a pointy object.

Lastly if you get a wiring harness, try to make the wire length between the magna plug and headunit plug as short as possible, I just soldered the ends together and now I have an extra 30cm of cables hanging around, which I had to zip-tie like a madman!!

One thing I found, when unscrewing the screws under the little bin thing (ash tray?), don't leave them in there loose, cause theres a little plastic bridge thing above them, and theres a gap underneath, which you don't see just looking down at it, and the screws can get in there and it can be a real pain getting them out, I had to molest a paper-clip to fish it out.
Interesting, I left mine in there every time I took it apart, I even drove the car around for about 4 hours with them in there lose, never fell out!


And the for the Wiring Harness, just go to autObarn, and order in the Aerpro Mitsubishi Early Model two plug type, part number: AP7010 for second gens and up, and I think the Late Model single plug would be for first gens, but don't quote me on that, should have 11 pins, then it's the AP7011. They cost $15.

And for the poverty-pack second gen radio with only one plug, still get the harness with the two plugs, you only use the bigger plug, and you have to shift some wires arounds but thats pretty easy to do with a pointy object.
Correct, you need to move the front left and front right negative wires from the second plug into the matching points on the first plug to connect to the Exec harness. I used a small flat head screw driver to pop the pins out then just clicked them into their correct positions :)

Interesting, I left mine in there every time I took it apart, I even drove the car around for about 4 hours with them in there lose, never fell out!

Well, I donno, I bumped it with my butt when I was leaning over it to pop the hood (sitting on passenger side), and the left screw flipped over and got under there, I guess you have to pretty unlucky to get it under there, but it's just a thought.



Correct, you need to move the front left and front right negative wires from the second plug into the matching points on the first plug to connect to the Exec harness. I used a small flat head screw driver to pop the pins out then just clicked them into their correct positions :)
Yeah, I used these cheapo presision screwdriver things, 1.2mm one was good, I think I broke it aswell, but meh. There's also an extra blue wire for Remote, if you have a power antenna or something, you could use it for illumination if your headunit had that option, mine didn't so I just left it off.

And the for the Wiring Harness, just go to autObarn, and order in the Aerpro Mitsubishi Early Model two plug type, part number: AP7010 for second gens and up, and I think the Late Model single plug would be for first gens, but don't quote me on that, should have 11 pins, then it's the AP7011. They cost $15.


the part numbers have since changed, got them last weekend, new part numbers are:
APP0111 for third gens (one plug) and;
APP0110 for second gens (two plug)

put my old head unit in my sis's 93 tr, son of a biatch had been there before me though and cut off second plug, 30 min job turned into 2 hour job and a trip to bunnings...:mad:

i did find the guide very helpful, would've taken heaps longer/ would've broken something if i hadn't read it

Hey all.

I've received numerous e-mails about this over the last two years. I might tweak the guide a bit more with the newly added wiring information and the part numbers for the harness' I'm glad it's been useful for so many people.

Cheers!

Guide looks great, will be attempting all this tomorrow. Should be fun. Now i know where to start :)

Hi All,

Still getting asked to update this one.

If I can find the original, HOPEFULLY I can update it. My 6x9 Installation guide (also on these forums) seems to have had no love, so I will be bundling it in the new guide.

Once again, thanks to everyone for the praise on the guide, it's much appreciated!

yes new one would be good matey!

Im trying to put a new headunit in my TS executive. The guide has been helpful, but im confused on what wire connects to the Accessory/ACC wire. My headunit has Power and memory wire. Is memory the one for ACC. Also is there one for antennae?

Second Gen:


Ignition Switch ACC: Blue/red
Constant 12+: Red/green
Left Speaker: Black (+) and Black/white
Right Speaker: Red (+) and Red/white
Rear Left: Green red (+) and Green red/ black
Rear Right: Red/ green (+) and Red
Light: Green/white

Earth: is a big fat yellow cable that bolted to the floor


At the Head unit the antennae wire is connect to the electric antenna if your car has one, on my pioneer the yellow wire was constant power, and acc was red wire from memory.

Cheers. But that still leaves me scratching my head over what a "memory" wire is. I'll just try it out as ACC and see how i go. As for earth i have a black one i presumed to be earth. But the speaker ones you said seem right. (i only have fronts)...

Im chucking in rear 6x9's as well. But thats all depending on the headunit.

memory wire needs to be connect to constant power, never presume a wire is something unless you test it out first. The car body earth, so if in doubt earth the head unit to the car body :)

Your right, i've just been googling the HU and memory is constant power and ACC is power. Speaking of the earth, when i pulled the old HU out, there was a wire attached to one of the bolts on the front of the HU bracket, and then ran down into the car..would that be an earth?

Yes, that would be the earth :)

Thanks mate.

Cant wait to hear what my $20 HU and $36 6x9's sound like!

At the back of my old HU there was another single pronged plug, with a big fat silver connector and thick black cord. That wouldnt be the aerial would it?

Yes, it would be :) If your car has electric mirrors, there will be a hose/ grommet going from the body of the car to the door. This where you can run speaker wire, it a fairly easy job. Just remove the grommet on the body of the car, and look for natural daylight under your dash. There wires come in. I just remove my four inch speakers and extended the wires to my doors. You can get door pods from a KS verada.

Thanks Sparky you have been helpful.

I was going to keep using the front crappy speakers as they are still OK, and just put 2 rear speakers in. Run the speaker wire under the carpet. If it sounds terrible ill go the door speaker option. I'm really doing this job on the cheap as you can tell. This magna is just a commute car for me. Its been going well so far, quite nice to drive. It has the paint cancer, but i dont mind, its a A-B vehicle. I just needed to listen to tunes really, tape players dont do it for me.

I'm gunna start on this job now, i only started having a look yesterday arvo. I'll go the big snip on the old plug and wire away this morning.

Wish me luck!

Putting speakers on the parcel shelf of a TS and using a newer HU really improves the sound quality in the car. If you can't find door mounted speaker pods you can get 6 inch speakers (or smaller) and mount them directly on the door card behind the door's map pocket. The little dash speakers usually die from sun exposure, but if the original owner of the car put in a dash mat, they tend to stay good for much longer.

I should update this. I ended up getting a mate to do the wiring for a carton. I showed him this thread and the stuff posted was all correct according to him. Wired the rear speakers myself and kept the factory fronts. Sounds sweeeet. Best $55 sound system ever..

If I can find the original, HOPEFULLY I can update it. My 6x9 Installation guide (also on these forums) seems to have had no love, so I will be bundling it in the new guide.

Hi all just wondering if anyone knows where the 6x9 installation guide can be found.