well i got this idea from turbo charade. on friday i noticed one of my mounts(passenger side) was starting to crack and being a single pearent pensioner im not swimming in money. so untill ive got the money for a new one i thought id try this out so at least it dosent fully break and make the tp shake like buggery.
step 1 - first thing i did was take my jack and a bit of wood , place it under the oil pan and jacked it up a bit to take the pressure off my mount.

step 2 - then with size 14,17 sockets and ring spanners i undid all the bolts and took out the mount.

step 3 - i then cleaned it the best i could with grease and wax remover.

step 4 - got sum good quality cloth tape (100 miles an hour tape) and closed of one side.
then grabed sum sikaflex-252 (black polyurethane), made sure i filled it from the bottom up as to make sure there were none or as little air bubbles as possible. then with sum soapy water smoothed out the top with my finger , as best i could.

then reason im writing this up is cause turbo did it to a mount for his charade, so i figured it would be good to see it done on a magna. and dont worry its not going to stay like this only till i have enough money to buy the real thing

http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cracking2ct.jpg

http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gettinhthere8ut.jpg

http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smoth8ru.jpg

http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?image=doneisdone3jy.jpg

sorry the pics are a little fuzzy but u get the idea, now all i have to do is wait 24hrs for it to set hard then ill post sum pics of it dried

Hey, that should work for a while, it should give you time to find a new one; wreckers?
It probably depends on how you drive it as well.
I am sure Buffy and Ol Farter will let yo know if it will last or the best option, like do you need to replace it with the excelent poly??? stuff that we would all love to use, even though a full set would be worth more than my car.

ive just noticed ive got a second one starting to crack as well dammit. yea i want to get a proper poly one like the ones they sell in the queensland section. but dont have the $220 for both thats why i did this, it will see me through till i get enough money for the proper one's.
and it only cost me $24.50 for the black poly and $3.50 for the tape, so its a quick fix till i get sum more dough.

I guess you are driving a gen three for the same reason I am. (I'm an old (some say adult)student)

I just want to keep mine on the road while getting the max fun at the least cost.

Then one day I will get a gen three, just because they are a nice car.


So you will have to see how this one goes, then do the other(s).

yea plan to do all of em like this till i can afford to repalce them all with poly. As for the first gen it's more of a cheap family runabout. ive got a 71 xy in the shed im slowly doing a entire rebuild on, cos thats my project. if i was to pick a magna id go for a tr/ts (apart from a ralliart) i like the shape of the second gens the best. when there all done up they remind me of a euro car eg, bmw. take a look at GoTRICES second gen i think thats the hottest out there.

The only Gen two I have been in was an ex GF's, but she managed to run up the back of a truck in a Darwin monsooal downpoor after only about 3km, so I never got to drive it before she became an ex. But the shape is nice, and they are a good price even when they are 3 Litre.

The only Gen three I have driven was my Sisters/BIL's 95 Jap import Diamonte, I loved the auto, and I usualy hate autos. I thought I would be using the manual shifter side of it but found I didnt need to as it down shifted exactly when I would have on the winding roads, and it was smooth enough that my Sister was asleep beside me at 160+km/h on good driving roads.

As for doing up a clasic, I had a 1957 MK1 2.4 Jag for a few years, but I just used it until the clutch went and it got sold.
My wish list for doing up a clasic is; the first Falcon upto 1965, preferably a two door. Maybe a charger. Or as a drivers car, a Fiat 124, twin overhead cam 1.8 or 2 litre.
But I also love the old XY's and used to drive a wagon that keept on blowing the auto.

well its dry now , i waited 48hrs just to make sure it had dryed all the way through to the centre. here a couple go pic and now have to put it back in and see if it made any difference.


http://img323.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dryside10ag.jpg

http://img365.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dryside25fe.jpg

interesting...
yeh give us an update to see how its going

put the mount back in today and took the tp for a long drive. there wasn't a lot of difference except for a little more vibration a idle but only slightly, and the power seems a little smoother but thats about the only diffences i noticed. but once i do the rest im sure it will feel alot different than only one done.

Hi Smooth,
Just wondering if you could do the mounts in situ?

?? hey , dont get what u mean by in situ. reword it for me im a bit slow

Sorry, it is just jargon

What it means; can you redo the mounts while they are in the car, lift it with a jack like you did to take them out and do it without removing them?
I imagine without looking at mine that you could get to one or two of them, but I think the back ones would be tricky.

well u might get to the passenger side one but i wouldn't bother trying. u really need to take em out so u can clean em as best as possible , that way the black poly will stick. also its messy stuff to use and when u finish the job it takes a bit to clean off urself and the mount to get a half decent finish on it. need to use ur fingers to press on the surface to squeese any bubbles out then then u need to smooth each side out nice and flat and smooth so it looks like its been moulded or at least its not to obvious that its been done at home. so in a nutshell id only do it out of the car that way u get a half decent looking job and ur not trying to get black poly off the engine bay cos trust me if the mount was left in there ud get poly every where(very messy stuff). oh ps. id also only do one mount at a time. oh also when i lifted it with the jack were only talking about 2-3cms, not enough to lift the motor only enough to take the strain off the mount, dont want to lift it to much or u might start a crack in another mount.

That makes sense; I was just hoping there was an easyer way.
But it sounds like you could make a hell of a mess, and not do the job half as well.
It will be interesting to see if it will be a long term fix
Keep us posted

yea when i do the other ones ill post pics of them, it will probably be saying this way for at least 2 months maybe 3 but we'll see

I know this is a bit of a dig-up of an old topic, but I was just wondering how those home-repaired engine mounts are holding up? I'm thinking of doing this too, since I cannot find normal rubber mounts that last more than about 2 months on my car before they start sagging... especially that damn rear mount that is driving me insane!

still going strong. they look like i put them in yesterday:D
and since putting them in there i have done a 6500 km road trip , taking the inland highway which trucks use so it's very wooppy (not real flat).
also my gf use it most days and she's a lead foot all the time. she loves the look on bloke faces when she get in front of em from off the line. up 60 anyway, cos most of the time there expecting a smokey old magna, but up to 60 the torqure is pretty good, sure not fire breathing but it still surprises (bs).

so id recomend this to anyone. sure vibration at idle is alittle higher but everything else has improved even the smoothness of gear changes. try it , won't brake the bank and the mount was broken to start with so u can't do much wrong to it.

Sounds like I definitely need to give it a try... I don't think the vibration right now could be made any worse in mine... 3 stuffed mounts, hole in exhaust, stuffed chains, faulty TPS.... it feels like i'm in a paint-mixer when i stop at lights!

I took four unbroken mounts of a wreck and then glued them up, using those rubber side pads as molds to give a decent finish. Either way the 252 is so thick you dont need to mask up as the stuff doesnt run. Wear disposable gloves though. Dry time of at least 4 days if not one week, my sikaflex was white so I sprayed the finished product black.
They come out rock solid.

Do you know if the sikaflex pro works just as well? It was the only one I could find at the hardware store...

I'm probably going to have to pick up a set of old broken engine mounts though, as I can't afford to keep the car off the road for more than a day. Not fully broken, just cracking. Would it still work in that situation you reckon?

:gtfo:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26803&highlight=engine+mount

My guide smokes yours :P

dont think id use it on my magna. doesnt sound as strong as it should be

well it is Construction adhesive (polyurethane). dont knock it till uve tried it. 2x stronger than the rubber thats for sure. i was a bit if'y when i did the first one but once it set HARD i was convinced. it's been in there for a year now with no signs of wearing out like the rubber ones, which buy the way would only last me 6 months before cracking!!

wow you get 6 months without cracking? The last 2 sets I have had lasted about 2 months before they were stuffed! One set I got from repco, the other from supercheap. Both failed, although the repco ones cracked, the supercheap ones went soft. Either way, both the front and rear have failed on mine yet again, and as a result the passenger side mount broke too! The vibration is something shocking now - especially the resonance lol

Whenever I get a free weekend, I'm going to try this sikaflex idea for sure!

wow you get 6 months without cracking? The last 2 sets I have had lasted about 2 months before they were stuffed! One set I got from repco, the other from supercheap. Both failed, although the repco ones cracked, the supercheap ones went soft. Either way, both the front and rear have failed on mine yet again, and as a result the passenger side mount broke too! The vibration is something shocking now - especially the resonance lol

Whenever I get a free weekend, I'm going to try this sikaflex idea for sure!

u more than likely only got 2 months because u bought the cheaper aftermarket ones:D . The rubber ones i got 6 months from were genuine mistu ones (dear as hell but held up better than the repco ones i tried before). when u get around to doing it u'll wonder why u didn't do it early:cool: i didlol

u more than likely only got 2 months because u bought the cheaper aftermarket ones:D . The rubber ones i got 6 months from were genuine mistu ones (dear as hell but held up better than the repco ones i tried before). when u get around to doing it u'll wonder why u didn't do it early:cool: i didlol

Surely the mitsi ones have a one yr warranty.

Surely the mitsi ones have a one yr warranty.

they do but i wasn't going to replace them and go through it again. so instead i paid 22.40 for a tube of poly and fixed it for good. plus the guys at mistu were being pricks,saying there's no way a stock magna could break them that fast. could of stood there till i was blue in the face debaiting with them but in the end it wasn't worth it! so i rectifyed it.

u more than likely only got 2 months because u bought the cheaper aftermarket ones:D . The rubber ones i got 6 months from were genuine mistu ones (dear as hell but held up better than the repco ones i tried before). when u get around to doing it u'll wonder why u didn't do it early:cool: i didlol

hahaha yeah... i asked at mitsu and they said they don't stock them any more... so i just got them from wherever else i could find :D

I plan on getting a few old engine mounts this weekend and I'll see how I go fixing em up hehe

filling up your engine mounts gets you defected again...

thought id comment as i have done this too,
i am too sick of replacing the dam things so i thought i would give it a go while the motor was out,
well in the 3 odd months ive had the car back ive managed to **** theses ones too, the gearbox was the first to fracture split, the front near the headers split all the way around, and the rear just crumbled to bits
ill try and get a pic of what happened soon
the other one seems to be fine, but once again there's a lot of engine movement and thuds violently when i drive so im gonna have to invest in the real solid mounts and hopefully ill never have to replace it again
maybe it just has to do with my driving style also seems alot of yous have autos, to be honest i slam a lot of gears which doesn't help em lol

Mine is completely stock, albeit K&N filter, roller cams and blue injectors, yet I've gone through a set of brand new front and rear mounts in about 2 months... I'm actually still waiting for my sikaflexed rear engine mount to dry. The weather has been too humid lately so it's taking forever to dry unfortuantely. Probably gonna be another week before I can put it in to see how it goes. Then I have to make a front one too, since it just decided to split today :P

The joys of owning a 17 year old magna... replace the oil and clean the sump, engine mount splits, coolant leaks from around end of a hose it never leaked before, and boot release cable snapped... gotta love it! Hopefully these mounts will at least cut down one of my weekly "chores" of repairing stuff!

I am converted to the sikaflex method :pray:

thinners I used was turps and cleaned mounts with thinners before applying

very happy with the result I have got from doing the front and rear mounts
bonded to the metal and the rubber

still have flex in the mount and support -no sign of sag or seperation under load

easy as using any other sellys product and chalking gun
squeeze and fill then make sure air bubbles are out

hehe another one joins the band wagon:D

Soooo... Does anyone know *definitively* whether or not this modification is okay in terms of Safety Certificate / RWC testing?

Cheers,
Mattt.

I thought I would give smooth2's urethane engine mount a go on my KR verada as the firewall rubber mount purchased new from Repco only lasted a couple of months before it ripped again (see photo) The photos show the sequence of steps taken. I have left it to harden for a couple of days now . . .but it may take a week or so to cure fully. . . can't tell how soft it is internally as it skins from the outside. The tube of Sikaflex 291 fast cure marine bedding urethane cost me $18 from Bunnings. Will let you know how it goes when I fit it.

let us know what u think.

The mount failed after a couple of days in car. . . Sikaflex 291 is only 45 Shore A hardness (quite spongy) and because the urethane was nearly 45mm deep it would have needed over a month to dry all the way through. I have now filled another one using Sikaflex 260 which is 55 shore A hardness and I only squeezed in 5mm thickness each day(for 9 days) to allow it to set properly. It has been in the car for a week now, no vibrations and so far so good. . . will keep you posted. By the way, no one has mentioned the small shock absorber that is connected between the engine and the firewall mount. What if this has failed and is causing all these engine mounts to tear apart?

yea the dampener on the front mount takes alot of stress from the auto. thats why i got a new one when i did my mounts.
sikaflex i used was 252 for the first two mounts then it was 221 for the other 2.
filled mine and let sit for a week and then they were fine. they've been there for over a year now and no signs of cracks yet (touches wood).

sikaflex i used was 252 for the first two mounts then it was 221 for the other 2.

Could you please explain which first two and which second two . . . thanks smooth2. . . aaahh poetry.

yea nno probs. the first two i did 252 was the one at the back next to the firewall and the passenger side (alt side). i only did them cos they were cracked.
And the front one with the dampener attached and the drivers side (tranny one) were done in 221 but they hadn't failed (ie no cracks or damage) i just thought well ive done the other 2 better do those as well otherwise they will crack cos the first 2 are solid and will vibrate more that the stock rubber mounts.

solid and will vibrate more that the stock rubber mounts.

That sounds about right, good call on that, otherwise your original ones would have worn out twice as fast. That's the only downside to using solid mounts, a fair bit of vibration comes through to the cabin.

Magna buff seems to think otherwise though. :confused: