Whats the durability like on the TS model?

How many k's have you travelled and what were your major problems..

Mine

95 TS 2.6L Auto

250,000kms

V6 TR Auto, only MAJOR Problems to date is the smoke out the exhaust (piston rings? vavle stem seals?) and the tranny is running a little weird, (needs a flush)

besides that never had major problems

Its done 212,000Km

Km Done= 220,540KM

problems=

Need new tires( getting done on Thursday)
Exhust(Fixed)
Petrol Wasting
Ingition leads (Replaced)
Breaks (Replacing Later On)

93' TR Magna Exec. Manual

225,000kms

I've only had the car around 2weeks, things that needed to be fixed...

- Cracked exhaust
- Radiator needed a flush (as it was full of crap)
- Gearbox is possibly on it's way out

My car's service records have a few biggies...

- Complete clucth kit replacement

(There is more, will have a look later and update)

Mine has now done 285,000km's Still going strong had to get the sterring rack done. Also had to get some work on the Tranny. Mal fixed up the smokey engine part for me. And her body is very straight and tidy. very clean looking for her age. :cool:

94 TS V6 5 Speed 3.0 L ;)
190,005
major problems..... dropped a cyclinder recently (all fixed YAY)
oh and i just replaced the driver's side rack end. $20 part 2 hours labour :rant:
body is very straight (had some paint work done... and they stuffed up the colour matching DAMNIT!!!!!) so they gave me my money back and i am still trying to find the paint for it :(
so thats about it :)
cheers

TS '95 | 5 Speed | 3.0 V6
153,000K so far

Things fixed -

Clutch replaced
4 Shock absorbers replaced

Those are really the only two major mechanical things that went wrong after I bought it, and the shockies weren't really that bad but I replaced them anyway so I would be set for lowering later on.

Looks like i have high k's...

What are the symptoms of a gearbox problem? is it expensive?

Looks like i have high k's...

What are the symptoms of a gearbox problem? is it expensive?

Notchy/clunky changes can mean that your synchros are worn, which means that you're up for repacement or pretty much a core rebuild. Can be taken care of slightly by using specialty gearbox oil for front wheel drive cars with shift problems. That's for a manual. Dunno much about auto trans problems for the TR/TS, as I don't have an auto tranny. Yes, is expensive no matter manual or auto. Auto perhaps more so.

kms 300,254

problems:
Worn valve seals
Other than that the only problems were caused by me being stupid.
Note i bought the car at 255k kms so alot of things could have been replaced by then.

When I sold my V6 TS 7mths ago to my Mum, it had 92,000km on it, went to her house yesterday, looked at the speedo, was only on 94,500km!
Problems: Ive had it since brand new, only had clunky thumping changes in gearbox (that model was recalled & fixed under warranty by Mitsubishi) Other than that it's been good!

My old lady says's she gets ppl coming up to her now and then to see if she wants to sell it coz its in such excellent condition.. Think she's going to offload it and buy a smaller car shortly..

TS V6 Manual
348,000km (I bought it at 270,000km)
Previous owner serviced it regularly & I've continued this.
Have not had to do anything to the engine other than normal services.
Have rebuilt the clutch.
Have rebuilt the Gearbox.

The engine was smoking a bit (rings or valve seals?) - I was getting concerned.
I had a mechanic to do whatever tests he could to check my engine and tell me what condition it's in. - cost me $60.

He said...
The smoke problem is Valve Seals. My engine is in great condition, still very strong. Given good servicing (& an oil change every 5K) - he wouldn't be surprised if I got 500K+ from it.
He said the Magna V6 engines are pretty bullet proof.

95 ts, 4cyl, manual, 210000.
Original clutch and never had the head off, had timing chains done but the buggers ripped me off, they didn't do the "bypass" and now she rattles again

'91 TR Manual, 2.6.
Just clocked 380 000km's - original gearbox, but its starting to rattle a bit now haha.

93 Tr auto 2.6L

150024kms

had headgasket replaced thats about all, just bout to do the shocks as they are as dead as a dodo

'94 KS Verada 3.0L V6

265,000kms

Bought in December '01 at 140,000kms.

Had a major oil leak at around 220,000kms. At 250 had a cracked rocker cover gasket and just replaced CV joints on both sides. Other than that it's fine, though I run it on 95 octane as there are clear differences in performance and engine sound at high rpm.

my 92 TR SE only has 92000KM and she runs great:) gear box sounds a bit worrying though:confused:

Mine has done 213000 and is in top condition but need the timing chain and guides replaced this week and now a radiator.

AussieMagna, will you be using the eliminator kit?

not this time as there is not enough info for me to do it but the vibration is a concern that some people have mentioned they either don't notice or they do notice it.

The car has done 213000ks with the original chain so I figure may as well replace the whole thing so it will last another 213000ks if I'm lucky fingers crossed.

So the eliminator kit causes extra vibrations? but reduced rattle over time? or no rattle ever?

So the eliminator kit causes extra vibrations? but reduced rattle over time? or no rattle ever?

It "eliminats" the cause of the noise chain which is not the timing chain but the balance chain and the balance chain is there to "eliminate" the vibration caused buy the unbalanced shafts.

So yes no more noise chain rattle anymore but as stated to me it's there for a reason and would cost more moeny if your not happy with the vibration and want the full chain and guides put back in after.

this is being discussed in the thread I started as I was looking into using the eliminator kit myself and there is a big debate to use it or not if anything I would use it if I find that the new chain and guides wear out alot quicker this time round.

Timing Chain Rattle.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30778

314,000K
92 TR Manual Wagon, bought at 160.

2x regs replaced on Alternator

180,000 Timing Chain
240,000 Short block rebuild, valve grind/recut, 5th Gear, Gearbox bearings
295,000 Radiator

Lifters rattle at will, MBL fixes it but seems to stop working after every 4-5K so can't be bothered anymore.

Magna TR '92 Auto

done 289,100.

Only had a few problems at the start, have had a clear run for a while now.

"Everythings made to be broken"

Will leaving the chain rattle cause major damage?

has anyone hit 400,000kms?

i think a mate of mine's dad has done an excruciatingly large amout of K's on his 2nd gen.. ill find out if hes reached the 400k mark

92 TR with 350000 on the clock
Problem
The whole car shake when put in D......I reckon its a gear box problem coz I did re-condition for engine and replace all the engine mounts.....
the tappers are noise.....hate that....
going to sell it.......got a few part wanna to get rid of.......any ppl interested can pm me...cheers....

95 v6 TS wagon, 7 seater.
bought it at 180k -the valve seals needed replacing.
currently 193k -powersteering pump leaked from pump itself- needed new pump
-core plug leak. most expensively located one.:rant:
-alternator doing something funny. still ok though.

runs smooth-as.
interior is the Ghetto-Blue(tm) which doesn't wear particularly well. but still looks ok when clean. i hate that felt-carpet stuff though. no matter how hard/long you vacuum there will always be some more sand and dead grass when you finish.
auto trans was doing some funky **** when i got it but it disappeared completely after a week.

Totally agree with the carpet, it will never be 100%... :cry:

1993 TR Manual
210,000km

Replaced brakes when I bought it at 160,000km
Blown Head Gasket at 190,000km
Hit Kangaroo at 191,000km

1995 KS Verada V6 - 212,000km

Starter motor occasionally doesnt work first shot, engine temp climbs occasionally on steep hills even after full flush and new expensive coolant, low idle with air conditioner on - sometimes stalls in drive..
Otherwise, very smoothe car and runs great, valve stem seals and heads machined at 200,000 by previous owner.
Auto tranny is fault-less, believe it or not.

1993 2.6 tr man
157000km

new alternator at 150000
new cv's at 153000 that was costly
got no brakes left at the mo, disks need machining
think my gear box needs LOTS of attention gears gettin stuck n crunch into 1st every now n then

Do cars lose power as they age?

yeah most common probs for that are clogged/faulty injectors and poor compression within the engine. loss of air/oil pressure in the engine can cause performance loss as the car ages as well

How many K's have I done?
94 TS 3.0L Auto

246,000kms

My only Problems to date since my purchase at 180,000:

Currently needed work:
Smoking exhaust (only on start-up (valve stem seals))
Tranny needs a service flush
Injectors need ultrasonic cleaning ($20/each injector plus $55/hr labour)
CV's both starting to click need replacing/overhaul
All shockys, plus general suspension checkover

Work carried out in the past 66Tk:
Ingition leads
sparkplugs replaced with genuine leads ($62)
bosch super4 plugs
airfilter
oil filter and magnatec engine oil
Radiator was replaced because the top tank cracked (perished). I drive 900Km per trip to and from work each fortnight and I didnt want to chance the bottom tank being the same so I simply replaced it with a brand newie @ $234



Also, I ONLY run it on at least 95 octane, usually BP ultimate (98) as I have observed very clear differences in the performance and driveability at high rpm and long highway runs when compared with lower grade premium 95 or normal unleaded.


When running on normal unleaded on the same trip to and from work, I average 410 from 55 litres

Running on 95 octane I get 500km from 55 litres,

and
Running on the 98 octane I get 580-640Km from 51 litres.

So its worth it to me to pay the extra 10 cents per litre for the really good stuff, especially when you need that bit extra "getup and GO" to pass an outback Aussie roadtrain.

I usually pay around 130.9/ litre for 98, compared to 117.9 for standard unleaded, about $5-$6 extra per tankfull.

TS has a tank capacity of 55L? im only getting 380kms a week. :cry:

TS has a tank capacity of 55L? im only getting 380kms a week. :cry:

as per owners manual:
sedan (both 2.6 and 3.0L) 64L
Wagon (both) 71L

march '93 KR VERADA

194,000 kms

has a slight missfire when under load -- will be getting fixed very soon

Thanks for the replies guys... keep them coming!!!

Ive only had the car for 2 weeks... second tank of premium...

first tank 380km, second tank 336kms driving granny style... :cry: is this normal?

Thanks for the replies guys... keep them coming!!!

Ive only had the car for 2 weeks... second tank of premium...

first tank 380km, second tank 336kms driving granny style... :cry: is this normal?


Well I would say that if you are driving granny style there is definately something wrong........

What is the service history on the vehicle like?

Did it have log books?

When was the last service done?

As a rule, I always do a service whenever I buy a secondhand car, Oil, oil filter, air filter, tuneup, plugs, leads, brakefluid flush, and sometimes even a tranny fluid change and check the brake pads as well.


Yes, It can be a bit of a cost to start with, but the way I see it is that at least you know what you have done then.

IMHO: I have always found that most "used" cars are sold because they have "issues". Not running right, idling, fuel consumption etc etc, and almost always most of these things can be tracked back to the service history and quality of parts used in service.



I am also a firm believer in the three types of owner rule.............

Owner 1: buys a new vehicle, can afford to have scheduled servicing done with the dealer, also wouldnt know where to begin on D.I.Y. servicing.

Owner 2: Buys a reasonably new, traded in vehicle, Spent a fair chunk of cash, but cant really afford the dealer service costs so does part of the work themself, and the parts they cant do are taken to a service outlet.

Owner 3+: Buying a thirdhand vehicle, doesnt have the money to lay out on servicing so is struggling to get the money together to do servicing themself. Usually lets the servicing go past the scheduled intervals because money is tight, and "it wil be ok", usually does service as cheap as possible using inferior, cheap items, which means things like engine internals suffer beacuse of the quality of oil filtration and the oil used is either too thin or too thick, or the air filter doesnt filter the fine particles etc etc etc.

Thanks for the replies guys... keep them coming!!!

Ive only had the car for 2 weeks... second tank of premium...

first tank 380km, second tank 336kms driving granny style... :cry: is this normal?

i get around 400-500 a tank driving granny style, i get 350-400 driving my way, :D granny seems to be better atm,:confused: i need a job :doubt:

Im exactly like u gapsa, always service ay used car i buy for the first time so i know whats been done to it... service logs are very regular up to 100,000ks. then it stopped. Not sure what happened with the next 150,000ks when i picked it up. Car runs very smooth apart form the chain rattle... just not sure why fuel consumption sucks so bad.

basically make 6 days between full fills. Cant even make 400kms!!! :nuts:

Mine has done 184,000 K's only problem I ( only had it for 1 year and added 10,000 K) was the brake pads... everything else has been fine... probably because everytime i go around to my pops he looks at it and fixes everything... lol

OMG 380 - 450 Kms only!! holy crappy doodle..
my TS 5 spd gets about 500 - 600 (city) and 600 - 700+ (freeway)
and its a 3L not the 2.6
and i have done aroud 190,000 Kms..

and its a 3L not the 2.6


belive it or not, the 3 is more efficient than the 2.6. to get the 2.6 to move u gotta basically tie a brick to the go pedal!

ps: whered u get that narley front bumper???

ps: whered u get that narley front bumper???

its from SSV. and its only a little lip but i moulded it on to the orginal..
however i am looking at gettin a second bumper and doing some custom fiberglass work to it :P

OMG 380 - 450 Kms only!! holy crappy doodle..
my TS 5 spd gets about 500 - 600 (city) and 600 - 700+ (freeway)
and its a 3L not the 2.6
and i have done aroud 190,000 Kms..

WOW!!!

mine goes through fuel likes its free!!!
mine needs some work done, your are one of the lucky ones!

Man... how do you guys get 400+ a week....

Man... how do you guys get 400+ a week....
heaps of mods it sounds like, i can get up 400 per week but gota push my car

Update... third tank - 300kms :(

What the? I have a 91 Tr SE magna (2.6l) manual.. hitting 170,000km's.

I need new valve stem seals, starting to smoke all the time now. But normal driving (I do a fair bit of freeway thou and go average pushing my car with air con sometimes on)

and I roughly get 550-600 city/freeway driving, and proberly round 650-700 on country driving? I guess im just one of the lucky ones :)

I have never had any problems to date (brought last year in january at 150,000k's) Only problem is an oil leak, either rocker cover or back of the head, (hard to find) so need to top up oil every now and then.

But yeh my fuels always been good, and I just run on normal unleaded... no additives or anything. Occasionally run through some stop smoke stuff etc but yeh.

What the? I have a 91 Tr SE magna (2.6l) manual.. hitting 170,000km's.


Sorry dude, i have to beat ya on that one....Same model and year as yours...just clicked over 145,000km's!! :D

What the? I have a 91 Tr SE magna (2.6l) manual.. hitting 170,000km's.

I need new valve stem seals, starting to smoke all the time now. But normal driving (I do a fair bit of freeway thou and go average pushing my car with air con sometimes on)

and I roughly get 550-600 city/freeway driving, and proberly round 650-700 on country driving? I guess im just one of the lucky ones :)

I have never had any problems to date (brought last year in january at 150,000k's) Only problem is an oil leak, either rocker cover or back of the head, (hard to find) so need to top up oil every now and then.

But yeh my fuels always been good, and I just run on normal unleaded... no additives or anything. Occasionally run through some stop smoke stuff etc but yeh.

for the 2.6's its only a $100 job, so its worth it, the SS stuff is useless.

wow your lucky getting that much from a tank!

i wiah i could get near that...:(

my 92TR SE manual 2.6 has just clicked 94000 and i can get 520ks driving around gawler on unleaded, and i can get 700 with ultimate. all of the time driving granny style

12/1995 TS 2.6 auto
3k two years ago with RWC
400 km per 50 litres (around town)
180k when purchased (ex govt lease first 160km) 195k now
I have fixed:
Every fluid replaced at purchase
Radiator (top tank outlet cracked)
Valve Stem Seals
3/4 engine mounts (80% of vibration at idle in gear gone)
Drivers side CV Boots
Front Pads
One rocker & lifter (replace lifter first, but the rocket was worn to and it couldn't hold enough pressure once warm)
Timing Chain must of been done before I bought it no rattle at all
Great second car

I can beat both of you... '91 TR SE auto with 138,000km on the clock...

Body is nice (almost looks showroom when you give her a wax), plus my parras are oh so lovely

I had to get front engine mount replaced, TPS went, also had a sonic injector clean done - now getting 550km/tank in the city, 650/700 on the highway on ordinary unleaded. Squeaks a bit when you turn the wheels full lock, this might be normal (rubbing) but I may get it checked out cos it is annoying me in our tight carpark. Otherwise she is tip top.

My 4th tank...325kms

Looks like ill never make the 400/wk average... argh...

These cars are thirsty...

I own three magnas, 1992 TR 2.6LT EFI 4 speed auto wagon (dark blue). I got that car to 320,000km before the gearbox shot itself. then installed recoed engine with a second hand gearbox from wreckers (unkown milage :S ) I got it to 335,000kms and the second gearbox shot itself.

My second magna is 1993 TR 2.6LT EFI 4 speed auto wagon (green). This car i bought just for the awesome mags and new tires on them, considering wrecking or selling to wreckers for $500 complete, engine works fine blows no smoke, gearbox having electrical issues, replaced Gearbox computer to no availe. will chane throttle position switch and check all connections and wires to gearbox.

My third magna is 1995 Magna GLX TS 2.6LT Carby 4 speed auto sedan (white) i had an accident in this car on friday :S hit a camry dammit (of course i cam out better off) Completely pulled out suspension and replaced with my fairly new monroe shocks and king springs from my first magna, CV joints seem perfect no boot problems. Sway bar knuckles are tight as are the tie rod ends. seems a bit of knocking when driving sometimes on a smooth road (i think the wheel bearings are gone??) are a ***** to buy new also need a wheel alignment coz i hit a gutter...

Will continue on but gf on the phone. Cheers Joe

My 4th tank...325kms

Looks like ill never make the 400/wk average... argh...

These cars are thirsty... join da club mate, i alonly get 325 - 350pw

I have a TE sitting in garage with 350,000kms on it, I've done 250,000 of those... All iv'e done is change the oil every 10,000. It still runs great and no oil leaks to speak of!!

How many K's have I done?

Injectors need ultrasonic cleaning ($20/each injector plus $55/hr labour)

When running on normal unleaded on the same trip to and from work, I average 410 from 55 litres

Running on 95 octane I get 500km from 55 litres,

and
Running on the 98 octane I get 580-640Km from 51 litres.

So its worth it to me to pay the extra 10 cents per litre for the really good stuff, especially when you need that bit extra "getup and GO" to pass an outback Aussie roadtrain.

I usually pay around 130.9/ litre for 98, compared to 117.9 for standard unleaded, about $5-$6 extra per tankfull.


Update: The injectors have now been cleaned, cost $220 and I have now done another 2000Km in the past month since my previous post (shown above)

Fuel up my way was at $1.26.9 and climbing (for standard unleaded) when I left last Friday and It was expected to top 1.38 by tuesday (tomorrow).

The fuel consumption on my TS had dropped to around 420-500Km mark until I had the injectors cleaned 1000Km ago, Straight after the clean it was back up to 680 on the first tankfull.



TS has a tank capacity of 55L? im only getting 380kms a week. :cry:
Well, its actually more (64L from memory without looking at the owners handbook) but I havent actually run it dry. Ive only ever had the warning light on a few times, and the most fuel Ive ever inserted (once) was 59L.

join da club mate, i alonly get 325 - 350pw

hahahah guys ur losing 100kms/tank. Thats 15l/100km's (close to xr6 turbo's 18l's). For a 60l tank your basically losing at least 12-14l every tank which would be around 18$ which is alot to go down the drain on fuel; i'd seriously take some steps to resolving the problem in most cases you wont have to rebuild the engine.

Mine gets 500km's nearly all city and i've lost the rings in cylinder one my sisters car hasnt been touched internally (only had ****ed radiator other than that) has done 350000 and it get 550km's no worries and it's an auto it used to get 660km's no worries

my car has done 320000 but this engine has done 80000 since a rebuild but noobness and not knowing ****ed it. Meh goin dohc

i was thinking of getting this done, i asked my mechanic, he said mate at 220K the injectors would be rooted anyway, if i cleaned em they'd clog up again right away..

so after him saying that...im not to sure if its worth the $220..

']i was thinking of getting this done, i asked my mechanic, he said mate at 220K the injectors would be rooted anyway, if i cleaned em they'd clog up again right away..

so after him saying that...im not to sure if its worth the $220..
kick your mechanic in the nuts injectors fail when they leak they dont clog; mine came off the old engine onto this one so they've done 320000. One leaks slightly and that means the starter kicks over 2 times instead of once on start up after the car sits idle for a while.

I'm pretty sure the cleaning paid for itself on mine in about 2 months.

hahahah guys ur losing 100kms/tank. Thats 15l/100km's (close to xr6 turbo's 18l's). For a 60l tank your basically losing at least 12-14l every tank which would be around 18$ which is alot to go down the drain on fuel; i'd seriously take some steps to resolving the problem in most cases you wont have to rebuild the engine.

Mine gets 500km's nearly all city and i've lost the rings in cylinder one my sisters car hasnt been touched internally (only had ****ed radiator other than that) has done 350000 and it get 550km's no worries and it's an auto it used to get 660km's no worries

my car has done 320000 but this engine has done 80000 since a rebuild but no knowing **** it. Meh goin dohci'm done with with my petrol, i'm going to trade in my car once i get off my ps and get MITSUBISHI TJ SERIES 2 EXECUTIVE as my next car.

']i was thinking of getting this done, i asked my mechanic, he said mate at 220K the injectors would be rooted anyway, if i cleaned em they'd clog up again right away..

so after him saying that...im not to sure if its worth the $220..


I agree! Go kick him in teh nuts!

Q: What happens when a fuel injector "wears out"???
A:Consumption increases because the tiny hole that the fuel passes through becomes LARGER.

An ultrasonic clean only REMOVES all the built up varnish and other dirty deposits that are resident in the fuel.

I suspect that the main reason why he would say something like this is simply because he doesnt have either the equipment or the knowledge to do an ultrasonic injector clean. Get a new mechanic, one who DOES know and DOES have the gear to do the work.

I agree! Go kick him in teh nuts!

Q: What happens when a fuel injector "wears out"???
A:Consumption increases because the tiny hole that the fuel passes through becomes LARGER.

An ultrasonic clean only REMOVES all the built up varnish and other dirty deposits that are resident in the fuel.


The Vibe im getting here is, Yes, Clean your Injectors...
Ill run a few bottles of the Injector cleaner for the time being (super cheap got a 2 for 1 deal, so you can do like 4 tanks for $10) and When i get the Much Needed $$$ ill be doing injectors and steam seals..

F**k money takes a while to get into my hands and when it does its out the door in no time!

']The Vibe im getting here is, Yes, Clean your Injectors...
Ill run a few bottles of the Injector cleaner for the time being (super cheap got a 2 for 1 deal, so you can do like 4 tanks for $10) and When i get the Much Needed $$$ ill be doing injectors and steam seals..

F**k money takes a while to get into my hands and when it does its out the door in no time!


I would suggest that having used ALL the liquid "injector cleaners" available at auto stores, SAVE YOUR MONEY.......

They all basically consist of one item: Petroleum distillate (DIESEL)

300-500ML of diesel will give you the same effect, and its alot cheaper at $1.40'ish per litre....


Diesel is high in detergent and can sometimes aid in blasting the buildup away.

You can also verify this with any industrial chemist or even some of the fuel company's technical advice lines will tell you what diesel is, and whilst you are on the line, ask them exactly what IS in the "injector cleaner" bottle.

Thanks for the info Gapsa, I've started saving for some engine fixing to happen, so, on your advice, ill leave the Injector cleaer alone ;)
Cheers for the tip!

']Thanks for the info Gapsa, I've started saving for some engine fixing to happen, so, on your advice, ill leave the Injector cleaer alone ;)
Cheers for the tip!
No worries. Because of the detergent content the diesel acts similar to ETHANOL (a cleaning agent) and will remove some of the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.

Sometimes, especially if used regularly of at high concentrations in old engines, it can make it TOO clean, and will mean that compression will suffer, and oil consumption will INCREASE due to the removal of the carbon which has built up behind the rings, and has also filled in some of the small worn sections in the internal combustion chamber area.

No worries. Because of the detergent content the diesel acts similar to ETHANOL (a cleaning agent) and will remove some of the carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.

Sometimes, especially if used regularly of at high concentrations in old engines, it can make it TOO clean, and will mean that compression will suffer, and oil consumption will INCREASE due to the removal of the carbon which has built up behind the rings, and has also filled in some of the small worn sections in the internal combustion chamber area.

yeah my car blows smoke like an absolute bit*h at the moment, so saving up to get the seals redone aswell.....i mean its ALOT of smoke....goes through a shi7load of oil aswell, with all the oil we've bought in the last few years it would of been enough money to do the seals.....ah well.....

']yeah my car blows smoke like an absolute bit*h at the moment, so saving up to get the seals redone aswell.....i mean its ALOT of smoke....goes through a shi7load of oil aswell, with all the oil we've bought in the last few years it would of been enough money to do the seals.....ah well.....


What oil do you use?? What K's do you change the oil at??

Penrite HPR30 is a very good oil for "worn" engines (though a little expensive @$30 for 5L) and its AUSSIE made and owned.

Oil changes at 5000-8000K are necessary if the most of your driving is done in the city, stop start.

If you do more country driving then 8000-10000K is fine but the key is to use a GOOD oil and a GOOD FILTER.

']i was thinking of getting this done, i asked my mechanic, he said mate at 220K the injectors would be rooted anyway, if i cleaned em they'd clog up again right away..

so after him saying that...im not to sure if its worth the $220..

OMG sif he is a mechanic.. they wouldn't say something that stupid? would they???
i mean they are supposed to know what they are talking about......... YEH RIGHT...
i will just do my own mechanical repairs and be on my merry way....

EG. My TB water hose nipple (the two pipes that run engine water through the lower half of the TB) one hose nipple rusted off.. Out came the drill.. and onto the lathe.. then a aluminium aircon hose nipple was added in place of the busted one ;) and everything 100% the way it should be.. $500 bucks for a new TB yeh right.. 40 mins and a little bit of common sense and ur sweet!!

I have a 1994 TS Magna I bought it with 170.000 and 1 year later it's reached 230.000 but I hear the timming chain ratle but no water leaks and no oil leaks, I try to keep it clean as much as I can...

Thanks TRELLAMENOS...

95 ts, 4cyl, manual, 210000.
Original clutch and never had the head off, had timing chains done but the buggers ripped me off, they didn't do the "bypass" and now she rattles again

What by-pass?
mabey this is why after 30,000km mine started rattleing again..

2.6l man, 273,000
done valve stem seals
cam chain,
gearbox+cluch
Front and left engine mounts

Also, im getting about 450km out of a tank of PULP(98 Optimax/ultimate/vortex gold) and about 430km on ethinol based PULP(98)

93 KR verada
just clocked over 180 000
the only things ive had dramas with so far was the idle speed control switch and the c.v joints.
although i think the auto trans might be on its way out.

Have a 1994 TR manual; it;s done 272000 kms. Only thing that's wrong with it is the left-hand CV joint's on the bugle.

I have a TS 1995 2.6LT 4CYL Carby GLX with 179,000km on the clock. I'm getting 500km per tank on ULP and closer to 570 on PULP, carby running like **** house any suggestions as it takes 15seconds flat stick to hit 100km/h which is horrid when my 1992 TR EFI with recoed engine would do it in 11seconds.

Any ideas on if it is worth changing my 95 TS GLX to EFI? As i have the other car with a recoed engine (done 30,000 clicks ago) hear a change over is a ***** as you have to change wiring loom for engine, ecu, engine, (do i have to change gearbox and auto modulator?)
Cheers
Joe

Km Done= 220,540KM

problems=

Need new tires( getting done on Thursday)
Exhust(Fixed)
Petrol Wasting
Ingition leads (Replaced)
Breaks (Replacing Later On)


lol if you had driven 220000kms on the same tyres id be worried