Hi All,

Recently installed by Alpine H/U into my '03 TL LS. Relatively painless, except for the research. Not sure about wiring in other models, but see how you go.

The stock is a rebadged Clarion. It's got a 16 pin and 8 pin socket and a socket for a stacker (Not Ai-Net or M-Bus though).

16 Pin (numbered looking at the loom, left to right, top row first)
(Primary colour is the fist, the second is the stripe)
Pin #, Loom Colour, Function, Standard Colour
1. White/Red --> Front Right + --> Gray
2. White/Blue --> Front Left + --> White
3. Green/White --> Illumination (Dash lights. Normally used to dim the HU) --> Orange
4. (No connection/pin) i.e. no spot on the plug at all. Makes way for retention clip.
5. (No connection/pin) i.e. no spot on the plug at all. Makes way for retention clip.
6. Pink --> Auto Antenna --> Blue **
7. Yellow/Blue --> Rear Left + --> Green
8. Yellow/Red --> Rear Right + --> Purple
9. Black/Red --> Front Right - --> Gray/Black
10. Black/Blue --> Front Left - --> White/Black
11. Black/Yellow --> Dimmer (Rheostat) --> Orange/White (not all H/U have this)
12. Red/Black --> +12 from battery --> Yellow
13. Blue --> Ignition --> Red
14. (No connection/pin)
15. Gray/Blue --> Rear Left - --> Green/Black
16. Gray/Red --> Rear Right - --> Purple/Black

** Some H/U have Remote On (Blue/White) and Power Ant (Blue). If you connect Blue, the antenna will be up when listening to tuner only. If you connect Blue/White, it will be up when the stereo is on. Don't connect your amp to the Blue on your new H/U, use Blue/White. Otherwise this will turn your amp on only when listening to the tuner!

8 Pin (numbered looking at the loom, left to right, top row first)
(Primary colour is the fist, the second is the stripe)
1. (No connection/pin)
2. Blue --> Radio Mute (Phone Connector)
3. (No connection/pin)
4. (No connection/pin)
5. (No connection/pin)
6. Light Green and Black --> Remote Control ** (Where fitted on Verada XI Steering Wheel)
7. (No connection/pin)
8. (No connection/pin)

** This wasn't on my unit, but I found out from the Service Manual.

Note there is no ground in this loom - need to attach your own earth strap.

I used my own knowledge in conjunction with http://www.streetdreams.com/wires/mitsubishi/general.html. Only the speakers matched the TL, so maybe the other colours will match earlier models.

You'll see in the image the orientation of the plug - the direction you see here is how the numbering above it set out in my explanation. Look at the plug as is, with the retention button/clip on the top.

Most other guides (including the Service Manual and the guide from Install Doctor below) give their pin assignments as if you are looking at the plug from the back - that is where the wires come out of and have the clip on top.

Enjoy and good luck.

Don't know or can't find the stereo wire colour codes for your vehicle, or can't find a connetion for your H/U? Or if you are new to car auto electrical and want a quick and easy solution I recommend the following -

Aerpro OEM Wiring Harness 717011 (http://www.aerpro.com.au/product.php?pcode=717011) - connects to the old H/U for resale, installation in another vehicle
Aerpro Quick Connect Adapter APP0111 (http://www.aerpro.com.au/product.php?pcode=APP0111) - connects to the existing vehicle wiring loom plug
Aerpro Direct Quick Connect APP8ALPL (http://www.aerpro.com.au/product.php?pcode=APP8ALPL) - connects to your Alpine H/U one end and the other to the APP0111.

For those a little more game, and to save yourself some cash -
Harness Adapter AP7011 (http://www.aerpro.com.au/product.php?pcode=AP7011) - connects to the existing vehicle loom plug, then you connect your H/U provided loom. Just match the pretty colours.

There are also other many Aerpro Direct Quick Connect adapters for H/U manufacturers (Alpine new and old, Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, Panasonic, JVC...). Also available for other models and makes. (http://www.aerpro.com.au/vrg.php)

This saves you time and hassle with finding the right wires, stipping, soldering and insulating.

Each adapter costs around $15.

I don't work for them, but have been reading some of the horror posts about things that have gone wrong!

I didn't use any of them cause I had the time and knowledge - and they had to be ordered in!

Ka-ching Ka-ching:

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

Cool. Except it doesn't include the Dimmer, Illumination, a few of the correct colours for the TL and it's assuming you're looking at the socket (an adapter or the end where the wires come out, not where it plugs in) rather than the existing plug that's connected to the vehicle's loom. The pin assignments are correct, but some of the colours are out (and pins missing)

Take a look at the picture of the plug I attached in the original post and work right to left with the image in the PDF -

A (Aqua) = 8 (Yellow/Red)
B (Yellow/Blue) = 7 (Yellow/Blue)
C ( - ) = 6 (Pink)
D (Yellow/Green) = 16 (Gray/Red)
E (Yellow/Red) = 15 (Gray/Blue)
F ( - ) = 14 ( - )
G (Blue) = 13 (Blue)
H ( - ) = 3 (Green/White)
I (Red/White) = 2 (White/Blue)
J (Red) = 1 (White/Red)
K (Red/Black) = 12 (Red/Black)
L ( - ) = 11 (Black/Yellow)
M (Red/Blue) = 10 (Black/Blue)
N (Blue) = 9 (Black/Red)

Sorry if I confused anyone - wanted to make sure people realise the difference in some of the colours - especially since there are two blue connections on the Install Doctor loom.

Will these suit a TH MAGNA

Will these suit a TH MAGNA
If you are asking about the pinouts
I would say that they would be similar.
Cheers

will this suit TE magna.

i understand A - I but where is the J - N

cheers

ive got eonon HU
should i be able to do myself.
cheer

"
Note there is no ground in this loom - need to attach your own earth strap
"

WHAT DOES THIS MEAN

will this suit TE magna.
i understand A - I but where is the J - N

The J to N refers to a different plug.
If you open the install dr pdf document (see link higher up)
it shows 2 different plugs.



"
Note there is no ground in this loom - need to attach your own earth strap
"
WHAT DOES THIS MEAN

It means that you will have to run your own earth wire to the chassis.
It will be the black wire from your HU, find some screw to attach it to.
There are some good attachement points behind the radio.

Cheers

Thanks for the followup Bill - not sure why I didn't get notified about the thread being added to.


It means that you will have to run your own earth wire to the chassis.
It will be the black wire from your HU, find some screw to attach it to.
There are some good attachement points behind the radio.


For anyone running their own, make sure the earth point on the car chasis is clean (no grease, paint, etc) and try to keep the earth lead as short as possible.

Be careful when you srew the other end into your HU - make sure you use a screw that came with the unit and not too long so you don't do any damage to the internals.

Hearty thanks for this wiring guide, It made the installation of the new headunit easy, well, ish, soldering those wires in that confined space was a b*tch... :P

Just to add to this thread - it was reallyuseful in helping me to install a new kenwood unit into a TJ 2002 magna - so just to consolidate everything
removing the front panels doors is here
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46742&highlight=remove+door+panels
and yes the trick with a strip of rag for the door handles works!! pops the cir clips easily

consol removal is here - super useful - although there is an extra screw behind the bonnet catch lever that was missed

http://members.optusnet.com.au/miltonf/car/mitsu/console/stereoremoval.htm

finally i used the Aer pro wiring harness 717011

bought some heat shrink tubing - just matched the ISO coloured wires to the kenwood harness supplied - did that on the kitchen table - plugged it in and all was good . just earth it cleanly to one of the screws at the rear inside the consol
The blue antennae wire does connect to the kenwood harness blue wire and does the auto aerial job.

Finally there is a small phillips head screw rachet available from bunnings - grey handle and real tiny rachet - to get the rear speaker screws out

Thanks for all those who gave there info on this site - made the job so much easier

cheers

Hearty thanks for this wiring guide, It made the installation of the new headunit easy, well, ish, soldering those wires in that confined space was a b*tch... :P


I didn't think audio connections should be soldered. Solder has lead in it which is not good for audio connections.

Lead=resistance=reduced quality audio.

Try and use crip or splice connectors.

I didn't think audio connections should be soldered. Solder has lead in it which is not good for audio connections.

Lead=resistance=reduced quality audio.

Try and use crip or splice connectors.


This is a ridiculous reason to crimp. You would have to the most appauling soldering job.

Hi All,

Recently installed by Alpine H/U into my '03 TL LS. Relatively painless, except for the research. Not sure about wiring in other models, but see how you go.

The stock is a rebadged Clarion. It's got a 16 pin and 8 pin socket and a socket for a stacker (Not Ai-Net or M-Bus though).

16 Pin (numbered looking at the loom, left to right, top row first)
(Primary colour is the fist, the second is the stripe)
Pin #, Loom Colour, Function, Standard Colour
1. White/Red --> Front Right + --> Gray
2. White/Blue --> Front Left + --> White
3. Green/White --> Illumination (Dash lights. Normally used to dim the HU) --> Orange
4. (No connection/pin) i.e. no spot on the plug at all. Makes way for retention clip.
5. (No connection/pin) i.e. no spot on the plug at all. Makes way for retention clip.
6. Pink --> Auto Antenna --> Blue **
7. Yellow/Blue --> Rear Left + --> Green
8. Yellow/Red --> Rear Right + --> Purple
9. Black/Red --> Front Right - --> Gray/Black
10. Black/Blue --> Front Left - --> White/Black
11. Black/Yellow --> Dimmer (Rheostat) --> Orange/White (not all H/U have this)
12. Red/Black --> +12 from battery --> Yellow
13. Blue --> Ignition --> Red
14. (No connection/pin)
15. Gray/Blue --> Rear Left - --> Green/Black
16. Gray/Red --> Rear Right - --> Purple/Black

** Some H/U have Remote On (Blue/White) and Power Ant (Blue). If you connect Blue, the antenna will be up when listening to tuner only. If you connect Blue/White, it will be up when the stereo is on. Don't connect your amp to the Blue on your new H/U, use Blue/White. Otherwise this will turn your amp on only when listening to the tuner!

8 Pin (numbered looking at the loom, left to right, top row first)
(Primary colour is the fist, the second is the stripe)
1. (No connection/pin)
2. Blue --> Radio Mute (Phone Connector)
3. (No connection/pin)
4. (No connection/pin)
5. (No connection/pin)
6. Light Green and Black --> Remote Control ** (Where fitted on Verada XI Steering Wheel)
7. (No connection/pin)
8. (No connection/pin)

** This wasn't on my unit, but I found out from the Service Manual.

Note there is no ground in this loom - need to attach your own earth strap.

I used my own knowledge in conjunction with http://www.streetdreams.com/wires/mitsubishi/general.html. Only the speakers matched the TL, so maybe the other colours will match earlier models.

You'll see in the image the orientation of the plug - the direction you see here is how the numbering above it set out in my explanation. Look at the plug as is, with the retention button/clip on the top.

Most other guides (including the Service Manual and the guide from Install Doctor below) give their pin assignments as if you are looking at the plug from the back - that is where the wires come out of and have the clip on top.

Enjoy and good luck.

I have a 2002 TJ Executive - Series II and my radio wiring colours and connection are exactly as you described on the 16pin, unlike the installdr.com reference which was making me scratch my head in regards the colours. Good write up mate.

I just installed a Pioneer head unit to my TL Magna ES and need to clarify a couple of points:

The "Install Doctor" website wiring colours are totally wrong for the TL. Forget about using that website.

The Green/White wire (pin #3) needed to go to the Orange/White wire on the Pioneer. The orange/white wire on the Pioneer unit controls the brightness of the display, and the brightness dims as more voltage is sent to this wire. When you put the headlights on, the green/white wire provides +12V DC, so if you connect this to the Pioneer Orange/White wire it will dim the display as far as it can be dimmed.

However if you connect up the Black/Yellow (dashboard brightness rheostat) wire to the Pioneer Orange/White wire, the Pioneer head unit brightness will follow the output from your dashboard brightness control rheostat. Personally I hooked up the Pioneer Orange/White wire to the Green/White wire on the car so that it just dims the display as far as it can go when the headlights are on.

Also on my car the Yellow/Blue wire (pin #7) was Yellow/Green.

Lastly, I connected the car's Pink wire for Antenna control to the Blue Pioneer "System Remote" (also called the "amp") wire. So as with all other Pioneer Head Units, the antenna goes up as soon as the ignition key is in the ACC position and it goes down when the key is in the OFF position.

I have a 2002 TJ Executive - Series II and my radio wiring colours and connection are exactly as you described on the 16pin, unlike the installdr.com reference which was making me scratch my head in regards the colours. Good write up mate.


We recently brought an 02 TJ limited edition and the cluster dimming did not work, it had a basic pioneer CD player with a 5 CD stacker in the boot a typical dodgy cut and hack job in the dash. I put in our newer pioneer deck with usb and iphone controls using the above wire colours and i wired the green/white wire to the deck so it dims when you turn on the head lights but the cluster dimming still did not work only the cigarette lighter lights will dim from the dash dial adjustment control.


There is another dim wire Black/Yellow --> Dimmer (Rheostat) should i of used that one instead ? i did test the stereo install with both the black/yellow and green/white wires separate but i could not get the cluster to dim only the cigarette lighter lights will dim from the dash dial adjustment control, i remember having the same problem with out 01 TJ magna about 6 years ago when stathfield installed a pioneer head deck, they even took parts like dimmer control out of there bosses company car trying to get the dimmers to work with no joy.

In another thread some one said you should not wire up any illumination wires in magnas, will lose you dash dial adjustment.

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52841&p=1508798#post1508798

Any ideas as i like the H/U to dim auto or by the dimmer control ? The original stereo was wired a bit ruff they could of burnt some thing out. Also the electric areal was not working when we got the car and i double checked the wiring and wired it up but it does not work i cant even get the motor to buzz and it pulls out and retracts easy by hand so i gather its stuffed, i need to work out how to test it.

We recently brought an 02 TJ limited edition and the cluster dimming did not work, it had a basic pioneer CD player with a 5 CD stacker in the boot a typical dodgy cut and hack job in the dash. I put in our newer pioneer deck with usb and iphone controls using the above wire colours and i wired the green/white wire to the deck so it dims when you turn on the head lights but the cluster dimming still did not work only the cigarette lighter lights will dim from the dash dial adjustment control.


There is another dim wire Black/Yellow --> Dimmer (Rheostat) should i of used that one instead ? i did test the stereo install with both the black/yellow and green/white wires separate but i could not get the cluster to dim only the cigarette lighter lights will dim from the dash dial adjustment control, i remember having the same problem with out 01 TJ magna about 6 years ago when stathfield installed a pioneer head deck, they even took parts like dimmer control out of there bosses company car trying to get the dimmers to work with no joy.

Any ideas as i like the H/U to dim auto or by the dimmer control ? The original stereo was wired a bit ruff they could of burnt some thing out. Also the electric areal was not working when we got the car and i double checked the wiring and wired it up but it does not work i cant even get the motor to buzz and it pulls out and retracts easy by hand so i gather its stuffed, i need to work out how to test it.

The Pioneer is one or the other - either dim the H/U fully when the headlights are on, or dim it based on the rheostat (but it stays bright when the headlights are on). I chose the former.

But your cluster lights will still dim ?

But your cluster lights will still dim ?

Yep, absolutely.

Check post #15 (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32761&p=1506965&viewfull=1#post1506965) in this thread. I used the orange/white Pioneer wire and connected it to the car wiring harness green/white wire.

Thank you SO much for this thread. I, too, have a series II TJ magna and the colours of the wires were EXACTLY the same for my vehicle. It took me a few hours yesterday (I'm a chick who's never done any wiring or auto electrics of any sort) yet I managed to connect everything up to my new[to me] alpine unit without any issues... except for the antenna won't go up when I turn the radio on now! *laughs* I'll have to figure out why that might be, but at least now I have ipod connectivity AND something that plays CDs! YAY.

Thanks so much for this!

Hearty thanks for this wiring guide, It made the installation of the new headunit easy, well, ish, soldering those wires in that confined space was a b*tch... :P

Don't solder them, use block connectors. Come in strips of 12, break them off in pairs, use them for the 4 audio pairs and 1 power pair.
Works for me anyway.

"Funny" story:
Did my third Pioneer radio install today.
First: (TS) used block connectors, labelled the Pioneer plug and wires with labels from the manual that came with the radio.
Cut pairs of wires off the original car plug and transferred them to the Pioneer loom. Used location of the wires instead of the wire colours to avoid confusion, after looking up which wired did what.
Problems: Two power connectors were reversed. Some of the speakers were not wired correctly when using fade and balance on the radio, pulled it apart and put the pairs in the right place.

Second: (TJ) Whimped out and bought aerpro connectors, all worked well.

Third: (TL) Used the method for the first one, same problems happened. Blamed myself for the first stuff up, but was extra careful this time. So one of the diagrams is wrong, either the one in the manual that comes with the radio, or the on line one from InstallDoctors.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/M...shi-Wiring.pdf

Checked this one against the workshop manual, seems legit. Must be the Pioneer info. So test out your Pioneer install before making your wiring permanent! lol

Don't solder them, use block connectors. Come in strips of 12, break them off in pairs, use them for the 4 audio pairs and 1 power pair.
Works for me anyway.

"Funny" story:
Did my third Pioneer radio install today.
First: (TS) used block connectors, labelled the Pioneer plug and wires with labels from the manual that came with the radio.
Cut pairs of wires off the original car plug and transferred them to the Pioneer loom. Used location of the wires instead of the wire colours to avoid confusion, after looking up which wired did what.
Problems: Two power connectors were reversed. Some of the speakers were not wired correctly when using fade and balance on the radio, pulled it apart and put the pairs in the right place.

Second: (TJ) Whimped out and bought aerpro connectors, all worked well.

Third: (TL) Used the method for the first one, same problems happened. Blamed myself for the first stuff up, but was extra careful this time. So one of the diagrams is wrong, either the one in the manual that comes with the radio, or the on line one from InstallDoctors.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/M...shi-Wiring.pdf

Checked this one against the workshop manual, seems legit. Must be the Pioneer info. So test out your Pioneer install before making your wiring permanent! lol

PLease dont recommend block connectors behind head units.

There exist plug and play ISO harness you can buy for FA. The additional plug is either the factory phone input plug or depending on spec, steering wheel remote wire also.

Best ever method of doing this, is to buy the harness adapter, and simply make a small extension harness with your new HU plug. SOLDER the connections and securely tape them individually and loom them so they don't move around independantly. This way, the adapter is strong, you do not destroy the factroy harness, and you can make another one if you need to replace or remove the HU later.

Here is the golden tip. Have a look at the factory harness. Mitsubishi have the best harness' of all the local manufacturers. Make your wiring match it in the context of joints and looming. Anything less than that, is a waste of everyones time.

http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Mitsubishi-Wiring.pdf

Worked out the problem.
For the lower section, it says "as viewed from the mating end of the connector", which I assume means looking into the plug openings, but it's an ambiguous statement at best.

The plug connectors are actually shown from the back of the plug, ie the side the wires go in.
I ended up wiring in reverse, ie the back speakers come out the front, and the front out the back, and the two power leads end up transposed. (left and right still work ok though)
Seeing I have fade and balance usually set to zero, it makes little difference.

Just as well I DIDN'T solder everything up. lol

PS> I LIKE block connectors.