ok, i have some serious rattle issues at the moment, and i think it is because of the way my subs are positioned.

i have two blaupunkt velocity 10" in seperate ported boxes, but the boxes are so big that the only way they both fit in the boot is back to back, in the middle of the boot, facing towards the wheel arches.

i was just wondering if anyone else has had subs positioned like this, and if so, were there horrendous rattling issues?

also, i brought a dynamat extreme bulk pack today, so do you think this will completely solve the problem or just reduce it? (it is really, really bad)

oh, also (i should have though this through before writing) i think i have a 2 piece boot or something? does this make it harder to deaden?

thanks alot for feedback.

what car do you have?
you'll never get rid of all your rattles, but you can dramaticly reduce it with SD

i know what you mean, i have one rattle (its actually a whistle) and have no idea wheres its from.

i guess SD everything you can see!

Its a TF Sedan

i would take everything out and sound deaden the boot floor completly.

that should help mate.
the dynamat should be ace at this, if your cheap like me a 4L tub of SD will do:)

i put dynamat all through my boot and no more rattles ... cept when it's really cranked the zorst rattles

dynamat is really good

get a dynamat extreme 'trunk kit' works out to the cheapers dollar/(kg/m^3) ratio compared to the others. Good stuff. You can never have enough.

yeah, i have a 15" DD with 1+kwrms, and my boot and parcel shelf rattles a fair bit. If you look at your boot there's a gap between the bracing and the actual skin of the boot.

ok, thanks alot.

one more question, is it better to deaden the bracing or the boot skin (the honecomb bit on the inside or the outer sheet metal)?

im thinking its probably best to do both, but if one was prefered, which one would it be?

Yep both is best (I also did inside the bracing with paint on stuff...

But if you're limited the best is to do the larger areas of flat sheet metal (aka the boot skin)
These will be most susceptible to resonance as they arent braced.
The bracing itself is sturdy by nature.

Peace

Tim

(if you are really limited you can afford to spread out your deadener by cutting it into large squares and laying it down in a checkered fashion it will still do a good job, unfortunately the best option is going the better brands of deadener, there really isnt a cheap option around it.)

i have also got bad boot rattle... no i havent sound deadened yet.. too poor to do so.. any cheaper way of doing this and still being realitivly ok... also.. my rear view mirror rattles like all $%^# too... which u can hear if ure standin in front of the car.. well....

cheapest way to get rid of the boot lid rattle and rear view mirror rattle is to take them off :)

cheapest way to get rid of the boot lid rattle and rear view mirror rattle is to take them off :)

that would be alright hey. Show everybody your nice boot install and rattle free bass....but when u park u get ur stereo stolen haha.

a thick perspex boot lid would be cool lol

i have also got bad boot rattle... no i havent sound deadened yet.. too poor to do so.. any cheaper way of doing this and still being realitivly ok... also.. my rear view mirror rattles like all $%^# too... which u can hear if ure standin in front of the car.. well....
Aim for the major simple areas, number plate and behind the rear garnish. Buy some closed cell foam (big packs for $10 from hardware stores to stop drafts in doors.
That will help to a certain extent by stopping viscoelastic transfer.