Well after spending a bucket on ym audio gear, I thought i'd better try and learn about it, haha. When i first got my amp in, it sounded great, however when i got my rears in, they adjusted soemthing in the amp, fked if i know what they did. and i lost alot of midbass in my fronts.
Now, from looking on my amp in the front section i see two adjustments 'gain' and 'frequencey', after doing some adjustments i managed to get it to sound really bad, then get it to sound a bit better than it was, but i'm still nto completley satisfied. Is there somethign else on my amp i should be looking for, or will these 2 adjustments gett he to the point i want?

another q:
i have a 4ch amp, now 2ch goes to my front,and i thought i was getting the other 2ch bridged to my sub. I've tried to do a bit fo reading and i've looked at my wiring of my sub.
There are 4 rear holes (-L, +L, -R, +R). Now at the moment my sub is in -L and -L, would i be correct in saying that this is only using one ch and thus not getting the full power it could, and that i have a ch loose doing nothing? Would "bridging" this sub mean that i'd wire it to -L, +R? or am i going to blow something up doign this? Also, if that is briding it, would this mean my sub will be putting out more power?

and the final q:
clip clip clipping! As i was doing my adjustments, i did notice some clipping of my front speakers at higher levels, i admit i did turn the gains up though. However, my amp should be putting (according tot he specs) 125rms to each speaker, and my speakers are rated at 130rms - to my understand the speakers should be able to handle the amp's max power? Which leads me to the question of how to i find out how my speakers are wired in terms of ohms? because the 125rmw is rated at 4ohms, however at 2ohms it's 250rms, so i'm thinking that they might actually be puttign out 250rms an thus my speakers are clipping when i turn up the gain and crank the volume?

My amp is soundstream TR500/4 and my fronts are SS L.O.S LS.60c

your front speakers should be 4ohm, and the amp should be putting that out aswell, it shouldnt be giving a two ohm load unless you've maybe wired it wrong?

as for the sub, yes, if R- and R+ are missing then only voice coil is being powered, the other is doing nothing, connect it up, now if possible.

but also at 130WRMS the speakers are not going to be exactly clear, or maybe they should, i really havent had 130WRMS speakers up high before....

i have my subs wired like so; which gives me a 2ohm load afaik.

ill wait till mitsi, tim, or magnat come on and correct half the stuff ive just said:D

At full gain and at full headunit power that will be enough to send it into clipping... especially if your highpass filter is set too low.
Change the highpass (frequency) setting it should be between 50-80 hz for caasq, then maybe a tad higher for daily driving. Test it out and find a spot where it plays low but doesnt clip (for CAASQ all your testing should be done at low levels as this is how they listen to it.
Also try changing the lowpass on your sub to around the same spot as your fronts are highpassed at. Then work from there.

Set your headunit settings to flat, when you do this. Make sure the headunit doesnt have internal crossovers on either as well that might be cutting out the frequencies before they get to the amp. (alternatively set them low)

Yes your sub should probably be bridged -what voice coil config is ur sub again? And what ohm is the amp stable at?

Is there somethign else on my amp i should be looking for, or will these 2 adjustments gett he to the point i want?


Check for a High Pass Filter (HPF) switch if your amp has one. You may have flicked this switch, turned you high pass filter up to high, filtering out too much low end bass and mid-bass. This is handy however you you have a Sub. Filtering out low freq. from your speakers, will allow them to go to higher volume without distortion. And make sure you set your subs Low pass filter (LPF) to a level that picks up where the speakers left off, so your not losing any frequency from the music your listening to. Get me?


There are 4 rear holes (-L, +L, -R, +R). Now at the moment my sub is in -L and -L, would i be correct in saying that this is only using one ch and thus not getting the full power it could, and that i have a ch loose doing nothing? Would "bridging" this sub mean that i'd wire it to -L, +R? or am i going to blow something up doign this? Also, if that is briding it, would this mean my sub will be putting out more power?


Okay, first thing is - Is your amp bridgeable? Check the specs. If it is, then yes, you should be running -L and +R (or +L and -R depending on the Amp). This will definetely pick up some more power to your sub.


Which leads me to the question of how to i find out how my speakers are wired in terms of ohms? because the 125rmw is rated at 4ohms, however at 2ohms it's 250rms, so i'm thinking that they might actually be puttign out 250rms an thus my speakers are clipping when i turn up the gain and crank the volume?

There is a world of info on ohms and speaker resitance out there on the net. Home stereos are usually 8 ohm, car stereo's are 4 ohm.

So, if you running the one speaker per channel, you will be only running a 4 ohm load. The speakers (being car audio speakers) will be 4 ohm. Running speakers in series or parallel into one channel of an amp, or car stereo will change the load. But this can get very technical.

Changing resitance is usually to do with Subs, whether running numerous subs, or a dual-voice coil sub. It is not common to find 2 ohm stable speakers.

So in answer to your question, if your running one speaker to one channel of the amp, you are only putting out a 4 ohm load. My advice, turn down your gain!

When your amp clips it will produce much more than 125wrms, so your speakers will not be happy :)

Hehe...

We found where the midbass went...
And now your midbass sounds kickass!

hah, now lower subass freq and put my seat up and i'm set! :P

so where was the problem Mr.2nd in Ametuer Class:P

another question on top of this, iv got an alpine sq headunit, something like 7879 or something similar, just wondering what i should be setting the cross overs for hp and lp on it to and also what should i bet setting the ones on the amp if im not running any rear speakers?

Setup is 6" diamond audio splits up front M661s
pioneer 12" sub in the boot 300WRMS,
all run by a 4 * 130 WRMS reposnse amp

many thanks
jaz

']so where was the problem Mr.2nd in Ametuer Class:P
I lost alot fo point in security/saftey *sigh* I think i was about 15 points after 1st from memory.. might of been 20? But i lost 5 points cause my alarm didn't go off when u open the boot, lost 1 point cause my battery terminals wern't correctly sealed and lost 5 points because my fire extinguisher wasn't securley mounted. In terms of sound - i'll have to double check this when i get a copy of my score sheet, but from memory my subbass was there, but was losing out in the lower range, my staging was slightly to the left where the seats were positioned (put the back of the seat forward - problem fixed) umm, and a few other things i can't quite remember, haha

Hehe...

We found where the midbass went...
And now your midbass sounds kickass!


Did he have his rear set too High ( Volume Wise) ??

Did he have his rear set too High ( Volume Wise) ??

Yep... So I turned his rears off before hand And ran just with fronts and the sub -> problem solved
For caasq it's almost impossible to get 'better' scores running with rears.

From the scoresheet

Depth -> Rear 1 2 3 4 5 Centre 6 7 8 9 10 Front 11 12 13 14 15

It's an easy 10 points, just from turning off the rears. The other 5 points take a bit more effort though.
Judges are looking for a sharp focussed soundstage with good width, depth and height, rears drag the stage backwards and muddy the image

Iirc for Righty the judges suggested possibly removing the rears due to some small issues with bass getting through from the boot into the cabin but that might not be necessary with some more tuning

There's a lot more potential there though, especially with the small token points (safety/security)

Peace

Tim

Thats what I thought, If he is after SQ then Ditch the rears for Comps and Put them back on for Cruising..

Comes back to my idea about ripping out the parcel shelf, making a new one out of 25mm MDF, and then cut the metal out of the parcel shelf (hey guy, relax! It's all engineered! sit down, have a drink, it's all good! Don't worry about it!) (heheheheh love south park! Dat Saddam, he so funny!) and make SEALED BOXES for the 6x9's/splits incorporating the new parcel shelf as the front of the boxes.

That way the cabin is better sealed, no sub-bass cancelleation due to the waves coming theru the 6x9 cones, and if you don't want the rear, just fade them out on the HU!!!!

Cutting metal = needs engineers certificate = expensive

the holes on your rear shelf arent for speakers... they are amp ventilation holes :)

my amp ventilation hole is in the middle of my back seat Timothy.....

Works very well thankyou very much :P

6x9's Increase Roll over Protection as the " Amp Ventilation Holes" are not hollow but filled with a Solid Substance.. Hence why only Poverty Pack Cars come with no rear speakers, its part of the Safety package upgrade :bowrofl: :bowrofl: