Hi,

My magna has a very lumpy irregular idle. Ive just had the 3 rear spark plugs changed, and the throttle body cleaned out since it was filthy. It still is a very lumpy idle, sometimes it gets so annoying that I shift to neutral at the lights or whatever.

Mitsubishi told me today also that the leads in the car are after market and that the idle will improve if i give it a bit of a go on the highway..Does that sound right??

Does anyone know where I can look to make the idle smoother??

TIA


Chris

does your rpm needle move erratically when the problem occurs? i'm experiencing abit of what you have now. i don't know the extent of yours but when i'm at the red lights with gear in D, brakes on, there is substantial vibration. sometimes it's so bad you could see the passenger headrest vibrating quite hard. my mechanic told me it could be worn leads. but yea, i shift it into N if it vibrates too much and it stops. don't know what's the true reason and don't know if my case relates to yours but i might get my leads changed next year. let me know how yours go...

oh yes btw, screw what mitsu said cos my leads are mitsu originals and i still have that rough idle. but i'm thinking of changing to bosch ones next time round.

Engine mount? Dont worry about Mitsu originals..Mitsu will do anything to get you to buy genuine so they can have your first born child because the parts are too expensive

got me engine mounts replaced under warranty last year. unless those mitsu bastards didn't actually change them...

Check your injectors too.. Had that problem with the 3L TF, chucked some of that injector cleaning stuff in with the fuel and all went well. Thats as far as my knowledge extends.

SuFz :evil:

Could be injectors? Possibly your O2 sensor, they affect idle and cruising so there's another possibilitly.

Well I had the throttle body cleaned before I had the sparks done adn the idle was so smooth..A week later it was idling again. Like I mentioned before, the idle has improved slightly since I got new sparks done. Ive heard of injector cleaner and stuff but is that good for ur car? I remeber watching like 60mins and they reckon that it did jack all for ur car and was soem big conspiracy by the oil companies or some crap. Dunno thats what I heard. Im gonna get the car checked out again next week so ill let ya know

Chris

Injector cleaners works better as a preventative measure and not a solution to an existing problem.

Best off to get them ultrasonically cleaned and then run an injector cleaner every 15,000kms or so just to keep it clean and get better longevity out of them.

WTF?!

Longevity?!

Riite.. Ahh well.. It fixed my problem, took me approx. 450/500ks to do so, but yeah.. it fixed the problem. If you don't like the sound of the injector cleaner in the fuel tank, then go to your local mitsu dealer and tell them you want your injectors cleaned. They do it for free for us every 2 services, long time customers.. deserve good service.
Fulla's working in the paint department of hardware stores dont.. :P j/k KB!

SuFz :evil:

Do you want a dictionary?


5 entries found for longevity.
lon·gev·i·ty P Pronunciation Key (ln-jv-t, lôn-)
n. pl. lon·gev·i·ties
Long life; great duration of life: His longevity vexed his heirs.
Length or duration of life: comparing the longevities of the two peoples.
Long duration or continuance, as in an occupation: had unusual longevity in the company; her longevity as a star.

I hate being right.

hah, owned KJ GTV. :badgrin:

KB is right 98% of the time, the other 2% he is asleep. lol :lol:

I see we are on the bottle cleaning debate yet again yipeee...I love this one.

Throttle in a bottle is great for removing moisture froma fuel system but it will not and can not remove carbon as the chemical used for this is far to volatile to clean carbon.

To give you an idea, when I still had my injector cleaning set up the chemical supplied by wynns which runs the car for about 20 mins was so volatile it ignighted when it was exposed to air.

I am not saying the bottle in tank did not do something after 400 or so k's however it would not have cleared up any form of serious blockage.

Mal: I was just debating the meaning of the word, since GTV likes to think I'm always wrong which is really wearing thin.

how long before the injectors start getting substantially clogged?

That is fine KB, this was not in any way directed at what you said. What you said about the cleaners and ultrasonic was spot on.

Sweet :D I took no offense so it's all happy happy joy joy for me :D

just letting u's know i have similar probs (rough idle) and that but not so bad that the seat vibrates. anyways, i took it down to the local mitsu dealer and had the head mechanic look at it and took it for a drive and had a play and said that the problem was very comon in the early 3.5's and that they had tried everything to fix the problem in pre - tj 3.5l and had no success. engine mounts, injectors, fuel filters, o2 sensors, leads coils the lot. We even said were prepared to pay whatever needed to fix it and he said theres no point trying beyond simple maintemance caus ehe had seen so many like it

just letting u's know i have similar probs (rough idle)..... no point trying beyond simple maintemance caus ehe had seen so many like it

Yep. My TH Advance 2000 model was the same. They did the 3 rear sparkplug thing, played with ECU blah blah... never completely smooth.

My July 2002 TJ 3.5 is a bit better, but can go lumpy at times. But nothing as bad as the TH did. :)

I have heard, from many sources, that the 3.5 is pushing the design of the original 3.0 litre to its limit. Was it stroked? or bored out? to go 3.0 > 3.5. If it was stroked - lumpy idle results. :)

Stroked I think. Pretty sure that the bore is the same. Mine feels rough at times and it's the 3.0. I've seen it vary from 500 to 1000 but usually after I feather the acclerator and watch it try to settle over the next 5 seconds.

Stroked to 3.5

Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2003 7:21 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

just letting u's know i have similar probs (rough idle) and that but not so bad that the seat vibrates. anyways, i took it down to the local mitsu dealer and had the head mechanic look at it and took it for a drive and had a play and said that the problem was very comon in the early 3.5's and that they had tried everything to fix the problem in pre - tj 3.5l and had no success. engine mounts, injectors, fuel filters, o2 sensors, leads coils the lot. We even said were prepared to pay whatever needed to fix it and he said theres no point trying beyond simple maintemance caus ehe had seen so many like it

ARE YOU SERIOUS!!!!!!! So they are saying there is NO possible solution to this??? F*$(#n hell im gonna go crazy! It drives me nuts as it is!!!!!! Is there anyone out there that has an early 3.5 that doesnt idle like crazy??? There must be a way to fix it

SNAP!
Me got lumpy idle too.
Took to Mitsu.
They no see problem.
Me say bullshit they just
no want to deal with it.
Me very pissy. #-o ](*,)

SNAP!
Me got lumpy idle too.
Took to Mitsu.
They no see problem.
Me say bullshit they just
no want to deal with it.
Me very pissy. #-o ](*,)

You ain't drunk are you???? :lol:

...or just japanese?? :D

Just an update.

My TH 3.5 seemed to behave quite nicely last weekend. Sitting at lights in drive many, many times. It idled nicely. Maybe it was the Optimax I put in? for the first time in a couple of months? :)

When the tank is near empty the car idles bad...But when I fill er' up shes not SO bad...But when I put in premium unleaded it goes one step better but as ive said, still not 100%. It could be something to do with the fuel system them maybe??? Just a suggestion. Also, a mechanic told me that he said the idle problem can be fixed on a magna, its not something that someone has to put up with for the life of the car. If he does and i hope he does fix it for good, Ill let yas all know what the go was..

Chris

We see this problem a lot and I would suggest the following things to help keep the car moving nicely.

Every third of fourth tank of gas fill the car with an injector cleaner.

The reason is to be honest our crap fuel we get is full of impurities and it does clog things up. The injector cleaner every now and then keeps it cleaner for longer and will break down some of the finer stuff and keep the car running smootehr. It also helps to decarbonise the pistons and valves and this makes a big difference as carbon on the valves is worse than clogged injectros as the fuel then pools on top of the valve instead of going into the car and hence rough idle.

Definitly run the magna on premium unleaded or specifically Optimax at least every 3 - 4 tank if not all the time.

Finally it sounds funny but change your oil religously every 7500 km. DOn't go the 15,000km unless it is a full synthetic. Beleive me when I say this helps keep everything running smooth. I don't want to go into great detail as I would be here all dya.

These will definitly help the idling problems.

Well ive been using premium unleaded with the car and let me tell you it makes a BIG difference....Despite the price difference, its worth it really, the car idles alot better, uses less petrol and is more responsive. I have the oil changed every 5000kms. I do alot of driving and ever since ive had the car, by me doing this the car has changed for the better..... As a testament to this, one of my dads old mercedes had 396000 kms when he had to sell it....Not one engine overhaul nor major work..

I'm pretty sure the 3.5 is a bore/stroke jobbie over the 3.0

But I agree with Mitsuman. We change the oil on all cars every 5000km, and we've not had a problem with it.

The fuel quality does do a lot towards idle quality (I can tell exactly where any car here was filled up, by running qualities, and taste. Don't ask.) so running it on PULP will be better than normal.

i have te 5spd manual had the rear plugs done and it is smooth as my old man and ladie have tj 3.5 auto and has don 70k km has not even had the rear plugs done yet and idles like it has stage 2 cams in it but it stock

its kinda seems like that ur either lucky or not....Seems like some people have maintained their car from the start but still end up with a bad idle....I had a very bad accident on the weekend near the gong adn the car spun out of control and hit a concrete barrier! so if its a write off ill never know what happend with the car...Lucky im still here

Well, it solved the idle problem then...

(Sorry, couldn't help it. RIP Magna, and good that you're OK. Proves the crashworthyness of the cars...)

Hi,

found out that the car is getting fixed and its taking them 5 f*#($n weeks to do now....Apparently the guy said that it has had some suspension damage done to it which isnt good. I want to keep the car but ill see when I get it back. Is there anywhere I can bring the car to, to get the suspansion checked out??

CHris

I've had my TJ 01 (MY02) Wagon in with Penrith Mitsubishi today to fix a few things (Static on Radio, shaking seat and lumpy idle)...

Apparently they are ordering an engine mount kit from mitsu in order to fix the vibration you feel when the transmission (auto) is in gear.

I described it as a lumpy idle.. They seem to think the idle is normal - the only abnormal thing is that you arn't supposed to feel the idle.

I don't know what it is like on your cars but when I feel this "lumpy" idle my Tacho does NOT move at all but I can feel the "lumpiness" through the break pedal and steering wheel..

Chris.

It might be when the thermo fans are on???? I feel a slight vibration through my steering wheel when it's hot and I'm idling with the fans on.

Well I dont know how u describe lumpy idle....But sometimes at the idle in D, I can see the front passenger car shake, the sterring wheel vibrate. The idle is not consistent, when it idles lumpy, its a bit rough then all of a sudden there is a big jolt and then its lumpyish. Its f*#$&n annoying me, and its an embarrasment for people sitting in there. They probably think u dont give a shit and dont look after ur car when I do!

Well I dont know how u describe lumpy idle....But sometimes at the idle in D, I can see the front passenger car shake, the sterring wheel vibrate. The idle is not consistent, when it idles lumpy, its a bit rough then all of a sudden there is a big jolt and then its lumpyish. Its f*#$&n annoying me, and its an embarrasment for people sitting in there. They probably think u dont give a shit and dont look after ur car when I do!

Sounds very similar to the lumpy idle I get.. Although does your tacho flutter or is it stable (excepting things of course when A/c kicks in etc).
I don't get huge vibration in the steering wheel but I can feel it plus I can feel it through the break and the passenger seat (when empty of course) shakes a little too.

In neutral it all goes away (but the idle speed seems to increase a little too).

Anyway.. Penrith Mitsubushi reckon my problem is engine mounts (the rubber things I think) and are replacing them next week (hopefully)...

Who knows if it will do anything.. What I can't get over is my car has only done 23000k - how could engine mounts be need to be replaced with such low k's????

I got more out of them this morning..

Apparently my engine mounts are fine - I checked them myself too which is why I rang..

The problem is Mitsu have been getting complaints about the vibration from many people and their solution now is to change the engine mounts to "softer" ones and the stock ones are quite hard.

Apparently this fixes the vibration problem.

They havn't even looked at my seat yet - they are waiting to see how the vibration goes once they change engine mounts..

I wish they were more upfront about this yesterday when I took it in instead of getting the normal service crap without any detail.

There seem to be different fixes... I had my mate who is a mechanic work on my car and he cleaned the throttle body and the car was running so smooth. When it was in D or whether it was in P. My tacho needle doesnt move at all. Just the front passenger seat shakes, and the car has an irregular idle thats annoying. DOes the bad idle only seem to affect the 3.5? I havent really seen anyone on here complain about their 3.0 idle rough..

Chris

I wonder if its has something to do with firing order of the cyl's between 3.5l and 3.0l.The 3.5l is 1-2-3-4-5-6 ????

That I dont know. The firing order

Just got the car back from having the front and rear engine mounts replaced... But they left the side mounts alone???

Seems to be a little less vibration when in drive however the bloody seat still shakes no matter what position I put it in. Good news is that you can no longer "feel" the wobbly idle through the steering or brake pedal.

Have a KH and same problem. Rough idle. Gives me the absolute shits as well. Seat shakes only when in D. Feel like getting rid of the car if it cant be fixed it shits me that much. Just about to put irridium plugs all round to see if that helps.

Tev I have a TJ advance auto. At time it idles roughly. I think that this is the most consistent serious complaint about the 3.5's. I have been told it could be caused by
* engine mounts
* dirty plugs, throttle body etc
* balance problems in the engine
* the stroking of the 3 litre engine to 3.5 litres
* John Howard and the liberal party

Mitsu do not seem to have a consistent policy on this problem. However I thought they did change the engine mount design during the early days of the TJ. My gut feeling is it could be caused by the stroking of the engine. A low speed balance problem that vanishes after about 2200 revs

So when your saying that the stroking it to a 3.5 is causing it, does that mean the 3.0 doesnt idle like crazy?

Well i have 99 TH 3.5 and the only idle problem i have happened just yesterday. I had short but sweet thrash around the back streets and pulled up in a car park and swithched her off. An hour later I started her up and she idled like a pig. I noticed though the idle was down to about 450-500 which in an auto is too low. I think it's supposed to be about 650 in D? Anyway after a few k's it didn't improve. So I went home. Parked up the drive and slammed the door. Only just bought the bloody thing! Anyway this morning she ran fine not a problem. Oh this runs on LPG so it can't have been and injector problem. Well that's my little story. Hope you didn't waste too much time reading it. :D

Mine does the same sometimes like Black Advance car.once my car has warmed up and is allowed to cool slightly she runs like a pig.I am starting to believe it has something to do with the engine temperature sensor.

Tev.. it seems to be a 3.5 problem only. I wonder if the longer throw of the 3.5 is placing some minor!! imbalance on the crank shaft which only manifests itself at idle.

I feel it is a result of the engine/auto relationship at idle.

With my theory it should not happen with manuals??? Does any one with a manual 3.5 have this problem ??

people,

You say it idles bad when in D with the brakes on. try it in D with the hand brake on. as the brake booster takes vacume air from the engine.

I tried the thing with the handbrake today, didnt work. Does anyone here have a 3.0 that has bad idle?

Had all 6 spark plugs changed to irridium. Made absolutely no difference to the idle or the car in general at all.

Next on my list is a new distributor cap with a new dissy button as well. Another guy did it to his and he recons it fixed the idle. Look under the topic "HK rough idle" at

http://www.fastmagna.com/

I will do anything or pay anything to get rid of the dam rough idle. I have tried nearly everything with no success.
Have done:
Mounts, idle speed check, service idle speed motor, plugs, leads, and none have helped.

Will let you know if dissy stuff helps.

I tried the thing with the handbrake today, didnt work. Does anyone here have a 3.0 that has bad idle?
I did have with my 3.0 TF. I took it to a certain reputable mob who said that they had fixed the problem after they had changed the sparkers (they didn't)
Took it back, they changed the leads and timing belt (didn't do anything)
Took it back and they just said it was something that I would probably have to get used to as it was a tired engine. I wasn't terrible but was annoying as there was also a ticking sound on cold start.
Then as I was driving down a road I saw a new mob who specialise in Magnas and they found that the sparkers hadn't actually been replaced for a LONG time, they noticed that the side and rear engine mounts were stuffed, and could not figure out why anyone hadn't noticed it sooner, and also found a break in the manifold gasket.
Admittedly after a lot of $$$ getting the work properly done it is much better now and I am much happier albeit my bank balance is much lighter.
So yeah, I found it was engine mounts, possibly sparkers, also possibly broken man. gasket.
Maybe get a second opinion by another mechanic, maybe even if you can find specialists like I did. Good luck!

I have a rough idle in my TH for over a year now. It is worst when the engine is partly warm or when I drive into where I live (its idle is ok) and put it into reverse (some throttle to get it going) it shudders and wants to die. I have now worked out that the EGR valve has a slight leak and I figure that under high idle vacuum it is contaminating the air my engine is sucking in (high vac, low rpm, slow air flow etc.,). Since blocking it off I have regained my idle, which has smoothed out. At the present I am also checking to see if my NGK Iridium spark plugs may have cause some of my problems BUT am not sure of this at the moment. I would be looking at your EGR valve, blocking it just to see if it is causing the problem???

Hmmmm.... What is this EGR valve you speak of?? forgive my ignorance.

I put my recently aquired TJII into my local mitubishi last thursday for three things:
Rough Idle, Rattley noise and shudder when accelerating over 90km/h.

The Rattley noise and shudder were fixed (Rattle was the header pipes & the gasket - apparently another common problem). But alas, they were unable to find a suitable solution to my rough idle also. I rang them today and asked them to note it down on my service history again and I would be expecting them to fix it in about a month when I book it in for 45000.

All I can say is I'm glad I'm not the only one. Lets hope if we all keep putting pressure on them (mitsu) they will eventually come up with a solution which is satisfactory to all of us.

To me the design of the EGR valve is a bad design as a healthy vac from your motor could over come it. You can do something yourself to see if it is the problem. It sits on the back of your inlet manifold next to the throttle body. It is attached by 2 bolts and a vacuum hose. **** easy to remove. Drink a can of your favorate beverage (coke\xxxx) and use that to cut a gasket the same as the one that comes with the EGR.Use a hole punch to make the holes for the bolts, buy some high temp O2 safe etc silicone and put it all back together and see how the idle is after that. I really feel that mine been like that for a while as I can remember once I had my hand on the pipe from the headers to the inlet manifold and I was revving the engine by hand and I could feel the hot gasses been sucked thru (this was at idle when reved). Also I remember when I replaced my plugs there seemed to be allot of grime? on the walls of my inlet manifoild. Putting that blanking gasket is one way to check and easy to do. I will have to do something with my EGR, as I believe it is needed to lower the temp in the combustion camber to lower a particular emmerision.

Have same problem in KH.

Replaces all plugs with irridium. No difference.
Replaces timing belt (was due). No difference.
Had throttle body stripped and cleaned (Little difference).
Engine mounts are Fine.

Mechanic showed me the air adjustment screw on throttle body. Just allows more air in at idle which in turn raises the idle manually. Doesnt solve the problem, just gets around it. This problem looks like it cant be solved anyway. Multiple mitsubishi mechanics say this makes absolutely no difference to performance/realiabillity of motor.

Have done it so car idles at 1000rpm at idle in Neutral and 900rmp in D (little higher than normal but gets rid of rough idle.) I am much happier now even though we have just gone round the problem and not solved it.

Damn fine idea there family wagon....I'm sure a lot of people would be most happy going "around" the problem rather than fixing it, myself included. Who really cares if it idles a little faster as long as that damn annoying lumpy idle is gone.

Salutations :thumbsup: :clap: :dancin: :bowdown:

For any one that is interested its mainly the 3.5Lt TH Magnas with this problem as i have the same with mine!!!

My service advisor at mits told me its cos they have used the same engine mounts on the 3lt and the 3.5lt !!!! and cos they are not designed for the bigger engine it cause the vibration when the car idles,

You can however fix the problem by upgrading the engine mounts to the TJ magnas at a small price of 1000bucks!!!! inc fitting, he recons that my car is one of the smoothes Th's that he has driven and told me if it shi-ts me to just shift the car into N at the lights which helps a little. . . . .

Common problem with the TH 3.5lt

My car also had/has this problem (2000 TJ). After complaining about it under warranty they eventually changed the engine mounts to the different ones that the dealer said Mitsubishi had suggested. Car was super smooth in idle for about 6 months and now the problem is back again!!!! If it was the engine mounts again you'd think it would idle rough all the time, but it only seems to do it now and then? Sometimes the idle is so rough you can feel it vibrating harshly through the whole car. I think that if you have lowered/firmer springs this might make the problem feel worse, as my brother inlaws car has standard springs and is a little rough, but no where near as rough as mine.
Car is now out of warranty, and I have given up, thinking if you are unlucky enough to have this problem with your Magna, you are stuck with it until the day you sell. I have also driven Commodores that seem to have this same problem??

Ok Heres My Story
Purchased A Kh Verada From A Dealer Secondhand With 90,000kms On The Clock.super Smooth In Idle Until About 2 Months Down The Track I Noticed This Slight Vibration Which Became Worse Within A Couple Of Days.
Booked My Car To Melville Mitsu And Charged Me $280.00 For Throttle Service And Emission Service.
I Picked The Car Up ,told Me It Was All Fixed And Low And Behold I Get To The Set Of Lights And You Guessed It ,it Was Still There.went Straight Back And Told Them And Got No Where With Them.
I Cancelled All My Details With Them And Told Them Where They Can Jam There Services.
I Went To Another Dealer And They Told Me The Rear Mount Was The Most Likely Cause.
I Was Also Told That They Could Programme The Ecu To A Pint That The Car Idles Dead Smooth But Only Lasts A Couple Of Monthsbefore It Resets .
Apparently Alot Of Dealers Do This To Sell The Cars .i Thought This Was Very Dishonest.
Have Had The Rear Mount Changed And Idles Alot Better And Am Happy.
If Only Melville Had Done The Same Thing!
Besides That I Think The Magnas /veradas Are A Goodlooking ,well Built,and Comfortable Cruiser.

yea my dealer does the same thing with my car ever time i book it in for a service they up the idle but it only lasts like a month at the most i gues thats y!!!! cos it resets. . . . . . :(

How much did they charge you to get the mount changed?????
Also did you get the conversion too or the same one fitted and how long ago jus sos we know what to expect????

Had the same experience. Rough idle in the KH is so bad its not funny.
Finally took it back to Mitsub as no one else knows how to fix it. There is this really switched on mechanic at chadstone mitsubishi. He said there is an updated rear engine mount for the KH so i had it changed and he reset the base idle. He also checked TPS and APS which were all perfect.
Verdict. Idle is dead smooth and it was worth every cent of $250 until a few weeks later until the car slowely got worse and now is back to normal. What a waste of time.

The only solution i have found to help the problem which is a bit of a cop out but no one can fix the damm idle is to raise the idle yourself by the throttle air screw. I have mine round 1000rpm at idle in N and therefor when in D, the revs are slightly higher helping to get rid of the lumpy idle. I have learn to live with it as it seems there is no fix.

mt TL vrx had same prob 8 months ago, got dealer to check it out under warranty - they found the BASE IDLE set 200 rpm's to low, they adjusted it back to proper settings - has been ok since.

this may be your prob. hope it helps!!

mt TL vrx had same prob 8 months ago, got dealer to check it out under warranty - they found the BASE IDLE set 200 rpm's to low, they adjusted it back to proper settings - has been ok since.

this may be your prob. hope it helps!!

My 2000 TJ had its base idle adjusted at every service, until the warranty ran out. Even after I whinged and whined and they replaced the engine mounts with new design it only helped for 6 months. Throttle body cleaned, plugs/lead changed, amongst all other attempts to fix. Mitsubishi DO NOT have a fix for this problem (and have had various other things on their minds like not going broke to look too hard for one!!), only change engine mounts/idle speed to keep customer happy until warranty runs out....and then its not their problem....like my car:) Unfortunately give up and switch into neutral at idle, its the only fix, or sell the car....there is no fix I've tried them all, every last one of the.....

Well it makes me happy to know i didn't get sucked into upgrading the engine mounts then . . . the wa-kers wanted 1000bucks to fix it. . . . .!!!!!!:nuts:

Its some thing i was planning on doing later down the track but if it only lasts 6months i dont see any point. . . think it will be time for an upgrage by then ne how. . .

A new TPS installed will help, often alot of crap builds up in it and affects the idle.

I have rough idle I can't get rid of too.

The values from my TPS seem on spec. 600mV at idle with a relatively smooth transition to 4.5 volts. Anyone think it might be worth replacing?

How much are you looking at for a new TPS?

I have rough idle I can't get rid of too.

The values from my TPS seem on spec. 600mV at idle with a relatively smooth transition to 4.5 volts. Anyone think it might be worth replacing?

How much are you looking at for a new TPS?

Your looking at roughly $200 non-mitsubishi OR roughly$380+ for mitsubishi.

I know mine improved alot after getting my tps changed, almost no vibration, compared to having the steering wheel vibrating.

I havent been following this thread that much, but as some posters have been saying, are the engine mounts one of a few causes of this crappy idle?


PS. This may be related, when I had my very old Ford Laser Ke 1987 model, it had this terrible idle and would sound so cranky and what not, it would drive like shiit as well, and so I took it to a friends mechanic and he looked it over and just said the radiator cap!
So we changed that and BAM! the idle was smooth and it drove smooth again! I was stunned!

Anyhows maybe that should be worth a look! (I bought a new cap and unfortunately it did not cure my idle problems, but what the hek, a new radiator cap wont hurt!) Just a thought!

By the way, when I had my Ford Laser and when it was in healthy condition, I must say its IDLE was WAY better and smoother than my current Verada! And the Laser was/is 17-18yrs old!

:rant: :rant:

Your looking at roughly $200 non-mitsubishi OR roughly$380+ for mitsubishi.

I know mine improved alot after getting my tps changed, almost no vibration, compared to having the steering wheel vibrating.

Just also wondering if the new TPS made gear changes smoother?

Cheers,

The TPS sends a signal back to the ECU.There is a pentetontor (can't spell) in it and if there is not a smooth process ie., a spike, then that will upset things.

I have rough idle I can't get rid of too.

The values from my TPS seem on spec. 600mV at idle with a relatively smooth transition to 4.5 volts. Anyone think it might be worth replacing?

How much are you looking at for a new TPS?


IMO Don't spend all that money until you test the idle circuit.

At idle, the yellow/red wire is earthed by the TPS when properly adjusted.

It's switching a large voltage and eventually becomes ineffective.

Temporarily earth the yellow/red wire to the black and see if it improves after 5 Mins (don't rev engine at this time) An easy way to do this is use 2 pins to pierce the insulation on each wire and then join them, making sure they don't touch chassis. Use only these 2 wires ! If not experienced, get someone who is.

If still unsatisfactory, look to improving ignition/combustion

Cheers Barry :cool:

Read all, it appears that this happens in nearly every 3rd gen and 2nd gen as well. My TE does the same.

To summarised what were the solutions:

Change Engine mounts
Use premium petrol
Use petrol cleaners
change spark plugs
clean the fuel system
Change to good grade Engine oil
Switch to N when at the traffic lights.

I do not feel confident that by changing engine mounts would solve my problem, how much does it cost to change them?

Why is it that it only happens when is at D and not N? and as soon as I drive the car, its smooth with no problems.

Like said its iratating sometimes and I would switch my Auto to N position which totally illeminates this rough idle. Changing Engine mounts seems to be the only thing I have not tried.

Hi all,

I started this thread orginally i dont know why my name dont come up!

Anyway beside the point, my idle was fixed for about 2 weeks by this magna freak i used to know in Sydney....He said he just cleaned all the gunk out of my throttle body.... and it idled perfectly for a week and a bit no joke..... and ive lost his number and i used to know his bro but hes going through a divorce... nto agood time to call.... i wish i could do what he did!!!!!!!! i was amazed

Have same problem in KH.

Replaces all plugs with irridium. No difference.
Replaces timing belt (was due). No difference.
Had throttle body stripped and cleaned (Little difference).
Engine mounts are Fine.

Mechanic showed me the air adjustment screw on throttle body. Just allows more air in at idle which in turn raises the idle manually. Doesnt solve the problem, just gets around it. This problem looks like it cant be solved anyway. Multiple mitsubishi mechanics say this makes absolutely no difference to performance/realiabillity of motor.

Have done it so car idles at 1000rpm at idle in Neutral and 900rmp in D (little higher than normal but gets rid of rough idle.) I am much happier now even though we have just gone round the problem and not solved it.


Can you tell me how to adjust the idle speed? I was thinking of doing this myself. Is it hard to do? thanks

PCV valve- clean it.

Charcoal canister - check for leaks, cracks. Replace.