Before you all type away like angry little freaks.. Yes I have used the search tool and no it didnt help me much.

Ive seen what options are out Im just interested in what other members have done.


1997 Mitsubishi Verada 3.5L Automatic.

Ive got a K&N POD Filter Fitted by RPW and a Luky Muffler so it has a little bit of noise but not much.

Im not looking for a street killer but Ive got a massive flat spot from about 1 --> 3000rpm after that its awesome.


Any ideas / feedback on what other have done would be great.

*I'm sorting out a BOX + CAI for the POD at the moment heat isnt helping me I know that.


Cheers!

A smaller plenum, longer runners, and extractors with long equal length primaries will enhance the performance of your engine down low - at the expense of top end.

Of course I don't really expect that you'll go out and do any of this, but just so you know.

RPW's race extractors are probably a good option for you since they're really aimed at mid range grunt. Actually, having said that, I don't know if they have longer primaries than the pacemakers. :confused:

straight up cheapest mod to start with is enlarged thottle body, pm ezboy if he still does themm they are pretty cheap mod and lets the throttle body open earlier and thus benefiting you off the line

Thanks guys, Im planning on getting the RPW extractors shortly so that should help with the midrange.

Enlarged thottle body sounds like a good mod, will PM ezboy today.

Im no engine power guru, but if you do get a CAI, wouldnt that decrease your low end?

So, getting a CAI would just defy the reason why your getting it, as it would just decrease your low end, and not increase it?

If im wrong, then bleh....

RE: EZ BOY


This is his Sig:

RETIRED from Active AMC Service

2 young daughters, extra working hours, 2nd business being DA'ed

Please do not PM as I am unlikely to reply.

----------------------------------------------


Shame hey.. :(

Im no engine power guru, but if you do get a CAI, wouldnt that decrease your low end?

So, getting a CAI would just defy the reason why your getting it, as it would just decrease your low end, and not increase it?

If im wrong, then bleh....


Nah I think your wrong dude, a Cold Air Intake is not bad in any way. It will help my POD Filter get Cold air not warm engine air.

Im no engine power guru, but if you do get a CAI, wouldnt that decrease your low end?

colder air is denser air, and ingesting it should make for better power production everywhere. More air = bigger bang.

So I'm looking for enlarged thottle body setups, will do a search and let you guys know what I find.

Theres a guy in Queensland doing it. If you have top resort to RPW then they will do it too. Or ask Stonesour. Otherwise as cthulu said long primaried extractors, long inlet runners. Also look at Barry and his fuel rail kit, its cheap and worth a try. Otherwise it gets extreme like upping the compression. A well tuned chip wil also improve midrange, possibly a fuel pressure regulator. I would try the cheap ones first: fuel rail kit, throttle body, pod box/CAI, extractors.

theres also Barry's fuel rail kit.....for that dreaded flat spot. look under K&N lean out in the tech torque section....top post.

*edit, sorry, i just reread your post......I've seen what options are out Im just interested in what other members have done.

For some cheap and effective mods PM Barry, as others have said try the fuel rail kit.

The kit that made the most difference to my car was the Earthing Kit. :cool:

Hope it helps

Awesome, Just PM'd Barry.

Awesome, Just PM'd Barry.
Keep me posted please.
Im in the same position need a bit more grunt, ive got a full 2.5" stainless system and now want more........

Also can people add rough costs?
ie how much am i really looking at to do the following.
Extractors
POD and CAI
Stage 1 cams
Throttle body and pressure regulator
HD clutch

Thanks.

Extractors - 500-600 for pacies and installation
POD and CAI - Depends what setup, K&N setup from RPW will cost 500 with pod, or u can do ur own with TH Smokers kit (200 with pod from memory?)
Stage 1 cams - 1200 from memory for RPW ones, dunno how much for installation
Throttle body and pressure regulator - Bored out throttle, how handy are u with a dremel? EZ boy was doing them, but looks like no more, prolly around 100 if u take it into a workshop to get done, pressure reg no idea not really needed if u get other mods done AFAIK
HD clutch - aroun $1000 im guessing, no idea tho

for all the mods listed, i would really suggest a Greddy, Haltech or Unichip to take full effect of mods (think u need one with cams anyways) which is another $1200 or so, maybe more depends how much u spend on a dyno

sounds like a similar setup i would liek to do

If you want more low end power sell up and buy a mnaul sports or vrx.
I had a verada (same model as yours) and spent heaps trying to get it to go quicker of the mark. It did pull real hard up in the higher revs like you say, but was rather poor down low. (unless you had a rolling start and it kicked back to first)
I had a lukey muffler, extractors, pod and hi flow throttle body. All of these did make a diffrence but nothing mind blowing, although as previously stated it was pretty sweet in the high rpm.
So my opinion is get a manual or leave your car pretty much stock, i believe my car did run best (smoothest) when it was stock, i actually regreted doing some of the mods by the end.

With all of the above done to my verada I got absolutely whipped by my mates BA
XR6 ute, 2 weeks later I cracked it and sold it. I gave him a run in my stock manual vrx, nothing in it :cool: Best thing is the verada used avg 15 litres a 100, vrx 10.5 :)

ps. If you really want more low end power and don't want to part with the verada i reckon superchage it, although it's still overpriced. I would of kept mine if I could of supercharged it for 4 grand, but yeah 8 grand was to much.

True dude, however im not a fan of the sports or VRX, Im a Verada fan if I sold the Verada Id probably get a Nissan R34 GTT

Supercharger or Turbo is not in my budget at the moment so enlarged thottle body sound like the go!

Will let you guys know what path I take.

do pacies help low end?

it didn't on mine, just a bit more after 5000 rpm I found

What I meant was, a CAI will give you more top end power, but as a sacrifice it will decrease low end torque.

So, it will give you more power, but not where you want it, and that is the low end.

Thats what I heard. But yeh, that could also be wrong as well.

hmmm i guess there is no cheap or quick fix to gain a little more on the low end

especially since i'm a low end head, cause i believe the street is more of a get off the line quick as possible then increasing the pull in the northen end

Smap, I dont think a CAI will make your low end any less powerfull.

The Hurricane/RPW Race extractors have the longest primaries of any commercially available header and damn-near equal length, unlike other brands with catchier names. These will free up the motor and improve response across the rpm band esp 3000+. The trick to getting the power even earlier in the rpms is thru the induction. cthulhu has already covered the manifold basics but you might also find this interesting viewing: CLICK ME (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29485)

Now I was running stock exhaust manifolds and stock cat at the time I had this on my car. I now have my custom extractors, high flow 3" cat and full twin 2" system and hope to put the manifold back on my car for a few days before the new owner picks it up. (I'm selling the manifold, not the car).

I am intending to make more manifolds of revised and improved design, notably internal baffling of the plenum, bellmouth intakes, possible changes to the runner lengths, changes to overall height so it's strut brace friendly.

Most importantly it runs very well with the STOCK ECU! My fuel econ also improved.

BUT DON'T PM ME YET - I'M STILL TRYING TO FIND TIME!! :cry:

The TB mod is useful and a must-do, but not the solution you're needing.

Im no engine power guru, but if you do get a CAI, wouldnt that decrease your low end?

So, getting a CAI would just defy the reason why your getting it, as it would just decrease your low end, and not increase it?

If im wrong, then bleh....

Not flaming just explaining... Cold air is slightly more oxegenated than hot air hense denser air. this allows a higher combustion rate because oxegen is required for combustion the more there is the better. so A. because the air is colder there is a better rate of combustion and B. a cold air intake with POD (a good pod) lets more air in than the standard air intake you get a better fuel to air Mixture.

Just thought that migth be handy info.

Thanks for the post EZ Boy and Zen, looking into the RPW Race extractors + a new manifold will be in the list of bits I need aswell :D

im interested in these throttle body upgrade...can someopne pm me a bit more about them

im interested in these throttle body upgrade...can someopne pm me a bit more about them

RPW does one. From their website price list:
65mm High Flowed Throttle Body - Stock unit exchange high flowed for approx 40% more flow. No manifold modifications required - $181

Im not sure what size the stock one is?? Can anyone else help with that? I think it is 50something?????

Throttle Body Upgrade huh! Im interested in that, was saving for a supercharger but 8k is a bit to much in my book, just by a few thousand dollars! Like Everyone else i got a flat spot between 1 and 3 or so revs so interested in increasing my low end power
Anyone know of a good trustworthy place to go over on the west coast?

Yeh RPW can bore out your TB. Im still searching for a 60mm TB for my 2.4 before i turbocharge her, only place i can get one is ordered from america as RPW aus dont stock them.

[QUOTE=cthulhu]A smaller plenum, longer runners, and extractors with long equal length primaries will enhance the performance of your engine down low - at the expense of top end.
QUOTE]

:stoopid:

My pacies made a big difference at lower revs - at the expense of spinning tyres!

k i'm the dude in QLD that flows the TB's and i have a HI flow TB, a K&N CAI with POD, and a fuel regulator and my car has amost no dead zone after 2K RPM. can post vid if need proof

Get rid of the pod if you want to restore low end power.

Wasnt there something about the MAF sensor not picking up the swirling air created by the POD so it wasnt adding enough fuel so the POD wasnt giving the desired effect. Or am i just talking out my ****?

Wasnt there something about the MAS sensor not picking up the swirling air created by the POD so it wasnt adding enough fuel so the POD wasnt giving the desired effect. Or am i just talking out my ****?

If you use a round pod it can cause these sorts of problems. The oval pods are specially designed for the style of MAF sensor in the magnas so they're ok.

haha dammit you replied before i could change the MAS to MAF so i didnt look like a fool :P

Sorry to hi jack but do you recon this is a good idea im interested in cleaning the MAF sensor but am worried i could damage it and cause all kinds of problems.
Click Here For Info (http://spydermagazine.com/2002/March/maf_clean/maf_clean.htm)
Not a cure but might help slightly to be clean. Every little bit helps right.

haha dammit you replied before i could change the MAS to MAF so i didnt look like a fool :P

hehe MAS and MAF sensor can be used interchangeably :) They're both right. I actually posted MAF on its own the first time then had to go back and add the word sensor so I didn't look the fool lol

k i'm the dude in QLD that flows the TB's and i have a HI flow TB, a K&N CAI with POD, and a fuel regulator and my car has amost no dead zone after 2K RPM. can post vid if need proof

yeah the vid would be nice thanks