A mate of mine has a TP Magna which about 2 months ago the automatic gearbox died, giving him no forward or reverse gears. Me and another mate decided to lend him a hand in replacing the gearbox. Well after two attempts, the 3rd and final automatic gearbox finally gave up within the month of putting it in.

Lesson learnt: Don't buy 2nd hand automatic gearboxes which has not been reconditioned!

So about a week ago we decided it was best and safest if we did a manual conversion. After some searches, we found our donor car. It was a TN carbie with 130,000 on the clock, with a 5 speed in good working order. But the car had rust everywhere, this was perfect!

Well we managed to get the car for $100, and $80 later (trailer hire + fuel + toll) it was on our way home.

The plan will be to changeover the engine and manual gearbox and other required accessories (ie. pedal box, clutch cylinders etc.) to the working car, but use the EFI setup in the working car and ditch the carbie from the donor car. I won't be listing what you need since thats covered in another thread (use the SEARCH feature!). But we'll be posting up the progress along with pics of the project.




http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/donor_rear.jpg

The donor car. Look at all the rust! There's more! (But i didn't take pics)

Well here is Day 1 (Saturday 1st April, '06):

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/loaded_at_balgowlah.jpg

Approx midday, we've just loaded up the donor car on the trailer over at the Northern Beaches. A
nice long trip back to homebase (~40km). Couldn't wait to get out of the hilly area. It was
really stressing the 'ole 3.5L Magna that was doing the towing.

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/unloading_rear.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/unloading_front.jpg

Got back around 2'ish and we're about to unload the car. You can see the weight imposed on the
back of my car. The front of my car has lifted quite a fair bit, no wonder people dispise towing on a
FWD! I was having issues with traction going up the hill, the stiffer springs i've got didn't really
help.

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/unloading_battery_change.jpg

My mate replacing the battery on the donor car so we could get it off the trailer.

Well about 3 hours after getting back, we've taken the driveshafts off, radiator out, exhaust manifold off, intake manifold off and the carbie is also off the car. Sometime mid this week we'll remove the engine, and hopefully by the weekend we'll also be able to take all the other necessity parts off (ie. pedal box) so by the weekend we can begin working on the good car.


Pics of the engine bay:

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/engine_rear_lh.jpg
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/engine_lh.jpg
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/engine_front.jpg
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/engine_front_rh.jpg
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/engine_rh.jpg

One more...

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/engine_rear_rh.jpg

We did a compression test on the engine, all looking good :D
A bit of oil on the rocker cover, so we'll take it off, give it a good clean and give it a new gasket.
The welsh plugs look good too, but once the engine is out we'll make a final diagnosis whether any needs replacing.


Here's a pic of the carbie which won't be used:
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/carbie.jpg


And our messy workshop (err..driveway :P)
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/messy_workshop.jpg


More to come later!

What I dont get is
1-whats the can of paint for ?
2-Why not just take out the auto box remove the spiggot bush out of the end of the crankshaft and fit the flywheel to the existing engine of the registered car then muck around with the gear stick and changing cables ??
3- put the unwanted bits back in that rusty heap and sell it for $150 ?

oh and you meant dont buy an second hand auto box you cant test drive didnt you :D


1. We were going to mark certain bits with the can of paint, but found a permenent marker instead :P

2. It seems the engine in the donor car is in a better condition then the registered car. And in any case, we'll need to muck around with the gear shifting cables because we're doing a auto->man conversion.
Also the fact it will be easier to get the gearbox/engine out with an engine crane instead of trying to take the gearbox out from underneath (balancing a gearbox on a jack is a pain and quite scary).

3. We may do that, we'll decide upon that once we get the registered car going again.

Oh and yes, never buy a 2nd hand gearbox without test driving it :P

Stickied so you can add to this thread alot more easily.

Damn i was joping you were in WA i would have offered you something for the rest of the donor car.

I need a new body :confused:

Good idea about the oil seals! I totally forgot about that and I wouldn't have remembered until we got the engine out. I'll add that to my list along with the gaskets I'll buy buying from Mitsubishi tommorow.

Hmm, the chain block and chain sling arrangement sounds interesting. When we did the first two 'boxes we had a limited amount of hardware, but this time we brought over the engine crane. But since we're taking the engine out as well, we'll try to remove the gearbox and engine together. Yes we noticed the gearbox was slightly under the bodywork, so we'll have to remove it at a bit of an angle, shouldn't be too much of a drama I dont think.

Heheh I suppose we can paint the lower body with that grey paint and make it look like an Elite :P

Nail polish is another good idea, unfortunately there were no females living at the house. I'd normally use liquid paper but theres a risk of rubbing it off if we're not careful.

Short update.

Last night we continued dismantling the car. We successfully removed the master clutch cylinder along with the slave cylinder intact without disrupting the hydraulic lines, which means we won't need to bleed the system :D

Also removed the shifter assembly and shifter cables, clutch pedal box, brake pedal and dismantled the air conditioning compressor so the engine is ready to be lifted when we get some time.


We have hit out first little problem however. The mounting bracket for the clutch pedal does not exist in the good car with the automatic. We have some ideas in our sleeves, if successful we'll post up the details later on.


Master cylinder hole on the firewall
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4786_mastercylinder.jpg


Master cylinder and slave cylinder out of the car with hydraulic lines still attached.
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4789_mastercylinder2.jpg


The shifter cables.
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4794_shiftercables.jpg


Shifter assembly with cables attached still intact. This was removed by taking the cables through the firewall.
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4795_shifteroutside.jpg

The clutch pedal box
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4790_clutchpedal.jpg


The brake pedal
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4788_brakepedal.jpg


Shift cable hole from the inside
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4796_shifterhole.jpg

This is the clutch pedal mount in the manual vehicle.
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4791_pedalmountman.jpg


This is where the clutch pedal mount needs to go in an automatic vehicle.
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4792_pedalmountauto.jpg

Haha they wern't my hands :P


Well i've been rather slack in reporting back the progress. But its all working nice and dandy as of Saturday night!

I'll post up details and more photos shortly.

Yes yes I've been really slack, but here they are. Unfortunately I didn't get as many photos as I liked to, but you know how it works, once your hands are dirty, you tend to forget about a 'camera' :P

Okay I'll try and post up in a chronological order.

Sunday 9th April

We didn't get to do much this weekend, had about half a day or a bit less on Sunday to work on it. We basically pulled the motor & transaxle off the donor car, took the rocker cover off and the insides inspected, which then gave us an excuse to paint the rocker cover.

Once the engine was out, it was much easier to check out the wear and tear of the engine.

On the project car we removed the engine & transaxle as well. We had some issues with getting the exhaust manifold out of the where the EFI exhaust manifold that was really bulky, and an extra long dipstick holder causing some hassles, but we managed. The brilliant thing of EFI, theres only a couple of electrical plugs to take off, the in/out fuel lines to remove, and the EGR pipings to the charcoal canistor to remove, so easy!

Most of the interior bits were already removed (where the owner did it in their own time) except the automatic shifter. That was removed, with a little bit of pain. The shifter cables are routed to go under the car prior to the firewall, where the manual shifter cables will go through the firewall.



Donor engine

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4797_donor_engine_out1.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4798_donor_engine_out2.jpg

Donor car with no more engine!

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/147_4799_donor_no_engine.jpg

Tuesday 11th April

Did some more work on Tuesday night. We managed to get all the manual related components in, bar the clutch cylinders.

So that included:
* drilling the extra holes for the shifter mount bolts
* making a hole in the firewall to feed the shifter cables
* mounting the shifter
* making a hole for the clutch cylinder
* welding and bolting the bracket to mount part of the clutch pedal
* mounting the clutch pedal

Making a hole in the firewall for both the shifter cables and the clutch cylinder was a lot easier than initially expected. We thought we'd be there all day drilling through a thick metal sheet and blunting all our tools, but that was to the contrary. The metal was so easy to work with.

We ended up drilling a number of holes around the shifter hole, then punching it out, and cleaning it up with a file and a drill sander.

Making a hole for the clutch cylinder was a lot more difficult, it had to be almost precise, and we spent half the night discussing how to tackle it. Again, once we began, it became easier. There is a pilot mark from inside the cabin that marks the top bolt (part of the clutch pedal, which the cylinder will then bolt onto from the outside). We drilled the mark from the outside, and drilled a hole as big as the mark. We had a spotter in the inside to direct the person drilling from the outside.

The hole happened to be bigger than we needed to be, but it allowed us to "fine tune" the placement in the end which made it a lot easier, and really, total precision wasn't exactly required.

Once we had the two mounting holes drilled, it was pretty easy to drill the clutch cylinder hole using a hole saw. The bolts from the pedal was used as a reference for our template.

The clutch pedal was really easy to position, the car already had the clutch pedal rubber stopper, which I presumed all Magna's had them from the factory!

It was time to place in the clutch mount bracket. We ended up taking the bracket off the old car, they were only spot welded, so it was just a matter of drilling in a couple of places. The bracket was attached to the clutch pedal, and the clutch pedal was then mounted in position and temp mounted onto the firewall via where the clutch cylinder should be.

We had already planned how we'd mount the bracket prior to this night. After a prior inspection, we could weld the top bit of the bracket without having to remove the dash. Behind the instrument cluster there were gaps large enough for a stick weld to fit through. The end result was the bracket was really strong, but aesthetically wasn't that professional due to "grounding" heating issues. We decided to mount the underside of the bracket using teck screws (I personally call them self tappets, so I can't really spell it right :P ). So with this combination, it was nice and strong :D

Cutting a hole for the shifter cables

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4806_shifter_hole_cutting_1.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4807_shifter_hole_cutting.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4810_shifter_hole_cleanup.jpg

Some sexy random dude who owns a Trans Am, but hardly drives it....

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4809_shawn.jpg

Clutch pedal temp bolted onto the firewall using some nuts, you can see our initial mark for the cylinder hole

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4812_master_cylinder_hole_mark.jpg

We made the hole!

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4813_mastercylinder_hole.jpg

Clutch in, you can just see the already factory fitted clutch rubber stopper

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4814_clutch_in.jpg

Clutch out!

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4815_clutch_installed_out.jpg

The shifter and the pedal temporary installed

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4816_shifter_pedal_installed.jpg

Welding the clutch pedal bracket

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4824_welding.jpg

Bracket is welded! Yes yes we know the weld doesn't look that great, but it serves the purpose, and we tried to break it and failed :D

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/148_4836_weldedbracket.jpg


That's it for Tuesday night. From here on it should be a smooth process, all the tedious work is done, it really isn't that bad! But then again, we did remove the engine, so that may have given us a whole lot more room to work within.

By the end of the easter weekend, we had two successful milestones. One, the mate who helped in the conversion was involved in his own project in restoring his '78 (circa. ) Celica with RE-22 running gear (Can anyone say, old skool EFI), and had finally gotten the black coat of paint on it, overdue by 4 months :P It looks tops, so mirror shiny!

The second milestone was that we finally got the 'ole Magna on the road!


Friday 14th April

Easter friday. We ended up spending the latter half the day cleaning up the motor and assorted parts, choosing the bits that looked better and bolting them onto the engine. Also transferred the EFI components over. Most time consuming thing was removing all the bits of the old gaskets.

No photos were taken during the day, I mean, who wants to see someone clean a motor :P



Saturday 16th April

We spend a good amount of the day putting the motor back in, fitting and connecting everything back together.

The motor went back in without a hitch, but this was a slow process, making sure we didn't break anything. The power steering and A/C compressor were mounted back onto the engine as the engine was slowly lowered in place.

We made a quick fix on the automatic electrical control cable to bypass the inhibitor functionality so we could start the car.

Clutch hydraulic lines and cylinders were once again fitted without dramas, as with the shifter cabling.

By nightfall we were pretty exhausted and ready to start her up. By this stage, we really didn't want anything to go wrong. But of course something will always not work the way it should.

This time it was the alternator. Which really wasn't a big deal. The car started, and 1st and reverse were working. But we couldn't really drive it anywhere without getting the alternator fixed because the battery would have been quite drained by then: not being charged for two weeks, used to power our engine crane and used for our crank testing. We highly doubt the battery would last if we used the headlights for any period of time.

So we began replacing the regulator with the one from the donor alternator (which had shorter brushes). That didn't help. Stress levels surged and we're becoming quite emotional.

Well we took the alternator out and plonk in the donor alternator with the original regulator, thinking it was working fine when it was on the donor car, so it should work fine here. Car started, but still no charge :doubt:

By this stage we felt like rolling the car down the lake (well I did at least). So we once again, swapped the regulator again. This time all was well!

We test drove it for at least 30km's and it worked out well, except for some human errors. The owner is self-learning to drive a manual now :D


Well that's all folks. I'll rap up with some more pics.....soon.

The last of the pics (unfortunately)

The good engine with the painted rocker cover, EFI intake and other various bits installed.
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/100_0457_red_engine.jpg

Working our way in dropping the engine back in
http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/100_0458_dropping_engine.jpg

The finished product...

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/100_0459_engine_in_fr.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/100_0460_engine_in_f.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/100_0461_engine_in_fl.jpg

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~tecodan/magna_tp_project/100_0462_engine_in_left.jpg

that's awesome.
good work:thumbsup:

yep a job well done

see the attachment s

by the pictures the weld in the place I marked needs to be looked at
its a hard job to do

just make sure it is a strong spot weld there it looks like a line and not welded ?

the rear engine mount looks broken by the picture

did you get time to put in the rear engine seal or wasnt it leaking ?


Thanks guys :D
I hope some of this write up and pics will help out others wanting to do such a conversion.


I don't think the weld is too much of a concern, it's only holding a clutch pedal box, and the current weld won't just 'peel' off either. We did a stress test on the weld, all was well. And don't forget it's being held on other points as well.


Yep you're right the engine mount was buggered. We replaced that engine mount from the donor car which was still pretty good.


We didn't end up getting the rear oil seal done because Mitsubishi were going to charge us $60 just for the seal (how ridiculous!) and we were running on a really tight budget. I would have like too, just as a precaution and a "might as well do it while its out" mindset. The seal wasn't leaking so hopefully it will last a while longer.

Hey just wondering, how much did the crane cost you ?

I wouldnt mind getting one ey.

Hey just wondering, how much did the crane cost you ?

I wouldnt mind getting one ey.

Hehe the crane is actully mine and i got it for free because i was in the right place at the right time. I believe that you can get a good crane for under $300 if you dont mind operating it by hand.

hey there!

the gearbox on my auto TP exec is knackerd and on its way out. before i put in a new auto... is it worth going the manual conversion? I want to learn on a manual and only being 17 and not having engine crane or sufficient knowledge of the magna transmissions woodnt be able to do it myself. looking at getting mechanic to do it but dont want the price to go thru the roof, tight budget. wood you recommend it? how much did this cost you, and how much do you think it wood cost to get it done by the mechanics? maybe if your not too far away, you could help me with it... or do it for me... or something? of course, i wood pay.

what do you think?

it all depends on your budget, u have to attain the g/b, master cylinder to suit, pedals, cables, selector, replace the clutch (i would) and driveshafts. then there's the install.

I have to do this further down the line, but will have a donor wagon setup to do a direct transplant.

Ask around, the hardest thing is finding a mech or 'someone' that is willing to do it.
Once you have both of the above, then u look at ure wallet.

Could cost you 3k, could cost you 1500.

That is going by a cost of labor and parts and near a worst case scenario.

I don't mind my autos, there great auto boxes imo. but I can feel is holding back power with any real driving i do with it.
so it really lyes up to you.

Get youself a donor car or the parts and then have a chat to me, I have done a few of these and am more than happy to do this, paid of course :)

I also have a spare trans here, was reasonale, the owner I am sure would be happy with $100 for it.

bvjvuyfv

lot harder to follow with all the pictures lost

so I added this from the first Gen forum archives


Auto to Manual Conversion doc - Interested?
Started by sensible, 10-05-2004 01:44 PM

Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion
This document outlines the process of modifying a Automatic TN model Mitsubishi Magna to take a Manual transmission. This has been written after the conversion on my car was completed. As always with these kinds of documents, I'm not taking responsibility for any damage you may cause to yourself or others. This is provided as reference/interest material only.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Parts Needed
You'll need a few parts before you decide to begin converting your car, namely all the pieces that differ from an automatic to manual transmission vehicle. I found that it may be cheaper to buy a not-so-good donor car of the same generation and gut this for the parts you'll need. These include:
Manual Shifter
Shifter Cables
Shifter Boot
Shifter Cable Mounting Bracket
Shifter Cable Grommet
Foam surround
Manual Gearbox
Flywheel
Clutch
Clutch Pressure plate
Clutch Pedal
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Clutch Hydrolic Fluid Lines
Clutch Pedal Mounting Bracket
Brake Pedal
Wiring Loom (Starter Motor/Oil Pressure/Reverse Light)
Wiring Loom (Air Con/Carburettor/etc [FIX ME])
Rear Engine Surround (Sheet Metal)
RHS Transmission Mounting
Radiator (Optional)
As a side note, I've been told that the transmissions from a manual TM series will not go into a TN or TP, though the TN and TP transmissions are interchangable. You may want to confirm this with a wrecker or mechanic before purchasing any of the parts needed.
Differences Between Automatic and Manual
Below is a short list of differences that I've come across between the two models, these will be laid out in more detail further down the document.
Locating Stud on end of crankshaft mount needs to be removed
Rear engine surrounds differ slightly
Shifter mounting holes only match on front two bolts
Shifter cable mounting bracket is missing
Foam spacer under dash does not contain runners for shifter cables
Need to cut hole for shifter cables in firewall
Clutch pedal mounting is missing
Need to cut hole for clutch master cylinder in firewall
Engine based wiring looms (2) differ
RHS Transmission mounting is different
Used different bolt holes on side engine mounts (denoted by an "M" next to hole)
Brake pedal is narrow on manual car
Carburettor has a Throttle Position Sensor on an automatic

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Doing the change over
To begin with, you'll want to remove the engine and transmission from the car. I won't go into how to do this here, as it's a rather complex proceedure and best left to your shop manual. You could possibly acomplish the conversion with the motor in place, though cutting holes in the firewall, swapping wiring looms, mounting the clutch cylinder pieces etc. would make this a very difficult job. I recommend removing the engine and transmission to ease this process. Also, with the engine out, you can take this opportunity to clean up the engine bay, engine and transmission and do any fiddly repairs (timing and balance chains are a lot easier to fit with the engine out in the open!) before you put it all back together.

With the motor out, you'll then want to prep the car body for the manual transmission. This is quite an involving process, which you'll want to get right the first time, as it basically involves removing a large part of the interior of the car.

Body Changes
Removing the center console and dash.
This is rather straight forward, though quite time consuming. I recommend you start by taking both front seats out, as this will give you much more room to work with, and allow you to pull the front section of the carpet back. A Gregory's manual is a good start for this, though not needed. There are a few different types of console and dash, for example my TN differed slightly from our TP donor car, but they're basically the same.

Start by taking the Center console's out. All three pieces are held in by a number of phillips head screws and a couple of push clips, just remember not to force anything as the plastic for these console pieces is rather brittle and will crack easily.

Next remove the glove box, speaker grill, dash covers (underneath) and dash, which are all held in place by a philips head screws and a few nuts and bolts. You can leave in the horisontal supporting bars if you remove a screw inside the ash tray hole. Just take your time, and make sure you are removing the correct screws. There's a wing-nut underneath the dash (accessible through the glove box opening) that holds in the speaker grill, as well as a few clips that you can lever out with a screw driver. Again, take your time and it will come out rather easily.

Next, remove the automatic shifter and cable by disconnecting the cable from the shifting assembily and unbolting this from the body. The cable will be coming from under the car and is removable from underneath the car (you'll need to remove a section of the exhaust heat sheild to get to the bolts for this. Once this is removed, bog up and seal this hole as it won't be used.

Mounting the Manual Shifter
When mounting the shifter, you'll notice that there are only two mounting nuts that match up with where the automatic shifter was mounted, you'll need to drill two more holes and use nylock nuts (or equivalent) to secure the sifter to the body of the car.

Use this opportunity to swap out the foam cable runner/spacer from under the carpet You might also be able to modify your current spacer so that it will take the new shifter cables.

Mounting the Shifter Cables
This is trickier than it looks! - You'll need to cut a rectangular hole in the firewall for the sifter cables, grommet and locking plate, there should be an outline visible from within the engine compartment that you can use as a guide for this, the locking plate is also a good guide for the shape.

There is also a bracket for mounting the cables to that sits about half way between the firewall and the shifter assembily that should be retro-fitted. In the process of converting my car, we had to remove the mount from a donor car and fix the mount in with nylock bolts (or weld it in).

Mounting the Clutch Pedal
If you haven't removed the dash, go remove it now. Under the dash there is a mount for the clutch pedal that sits on the under side of the car body, this will have to be mounted in place by either welding it, or using nylock bolts. We attatched this plate with four nylock bolts, two into the engine compartment, and two under where the windscreen-wipers sit. You'll need to cut another hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder, lucky this one's circular, use a hole-saw just make sure you've got the correct spot.

Changing the Brake Pedal
You'll find that the pedal is reasonably easy to remove, both brackets are identical, so this is just a straight swap over.

Chainging the wiring looms
Once you've got the dash out, this is rather simple. There's a loom that runs from across the top of the engine bay and into the left hand side of the car. This has a few connectors in the left hand side of the dash, and also runs under the carpet to the automatic control unit (which you can now remove). Disconnect this loom from the car and pull it through the hole in the firewall and remove the clips that hold it within the engine bay. The loom from a manual will be much simpler as it doesn't have the auto connectors, though it will plug straight in to the existing connectors behind the dash.

There is also another small loom that runs from behind the battery to the starter motor, oil pressure sender and reverse lamp. I had to splice my old connector onto the new loom from the donor car, as the connectors for the reverse lamp were different. The wire colours where slightly different, but it's rather obvious to tell with a multi-meter (or even cable colour) what does what. [Note: The Gregory's manual was no help at all here]

Engine Changes
After you've sorted out all the body related changes, you'll be ready to work on the engine. There are a few things that you should be aware of.

Crankshaft to Flyweel mounting
There is a stud that's driven into the crankshaft of automatic cars that the torque-converter locates on, you'll need to remove this stud in order to mount the flywheel to the crankshaft. We did this by welding a bracket with a nut on it to this stud, and winding a bolt through to pull it out of the hole. It didn't look like it was going to budge any other way.

Rear engine surrounds
These are made from stamped sheet metal, and differ from auto to manual, four bolts and they're changed.

Transmission mounting
The Manual transmission to body mounting is different to the automatic, seems that the manual one hangs a lot lower. This will have to be changed.

Radiator
The automatic radiator has an oil cooler integrated, I swapped this over for the manual radiator though you could probably use your existing one.