Hi All,
I am a female who owns magna and I really hope someone can help me.

I own a car mitsubishi magna V6 1995 TS Executive.
I have been having a problem when I try to start the engine. But I get used to it, and I know what the trick is ie, push bit harder.
Then recently about 3 days ago, the trick did not work anymore. The car just stop and I brought it to my usual mechanic repair.

He said it is easy just an ignition, he will get the second hand as the new one costs a fortune. Then later in the afternoon he rang me asked me about the alarm. Yes I said, the alarm did not work for a while already.

The next morning he rang me again, told me a very bad news that I have to change the whole unit (ignition and immobiliser), as it does not work just by cutting and bypass the alarm, because the car has a computer system somehow.
Then he tried to ring around, even he said,he rang Japan to get the part but Japan confirmed that they are no longer producing these kinds of part.

I am very frustated, whilst my car has a very good engine and body and everything, just this thing makes me frustated.

Could somebody help me PLEASE with this issue. I just need to get that sparepart (ignition switch with immobiliser) so that my car can work.

Please, if anybody out there who is kind enough to help me...

Regards,
Jenny

Sounds like the after market alarm system is playing up. If i was you i'd take it to an auto electrician, they'd probably have a better idea on how to fix it.

Thanks but my mechanic told me no one can fix it unless he has the spareparts. And he said he can bypass the immobiliser and alarm.
My mechanic cut the wire already, so I can not take out my car from his premises. Any suggestion?

Further he told me, this is a detail of sparepart needed:
Ignition switch WITH immobiliser (4 wire)
Most of the ignition switch does not have immobiliser. I don't know why mine one got it.

Sounds very suss, calling Japan and all....considering its an Australian designed, Australian made car.

If it has an aftermarket alarm, then that could easily be bypassed, unless your mechanic has little knowledge in auto electrics.

Any ignition switch from another TS Magna should do, there definitely wasn't any different TS models which had the extra immobiliser. I think they were mistaken with the two similar models, the TR and TS series.

yeah this definitely sounds dodgy, if u can start the car definitely see if u can take it to an auto electrician, because it sounds to me like the mechanic is taking u for a ride, and in the end it will be hundreds of dollars you wouldn't ordinarily have to spend.

Also, a second opinion never hurts.

the problem is I can not start the car. I can see he has open up "the cover" under the steering wheel. So it really put me in the corner. Do you all think that I should get it towed somewhere? Ta.

I wont trust this mech for sure as an Honest Mech will tell you EXACTLY what is needed to be change and WILL call you immediately if there are other things to be fixed. He would wait for your approval before carrying on.

I have met some bad ones that say they done this and that without letting you know which you ended up paying heaps.

Try ask your friends or anyone who has a towing facility to help you out save you even more.
Even a listed and proper mech can change it on the spot for ya.

I don't know what to do :cry: :cry: :cry:
He emphasised that no one will be able to get parts for me. As in Australia, there are only 8-10 cars with similar like me (has immobiliser).
Do you think I can call any auto elec to come to his premises? Thanks.

if ur an racv member u could ust ring them and say ur car's broken down some where, give the mech's address, and get them to come and tow it to the auto elec. i have done this a few times, a little dodgy but hey, have to make the most of my membership fees.

Also, if it's an alarm problem he should be able to bypass the alarm/immobiliser circuit and start the car directly, even if this means the alarm never works again, it would be no different than before.
How well do you know this mechanic? Coz i'd be almost willing to bet my left ball that he never called Japan or did any of the other crap that he reckons he's done.

Also, 8-10 cars like urs???? I don't think so.
There's a LOT of rip-off merchants out there, like in any industry, and a lot of the time, women seem a particular target when it comes to cars. Just ask my GF!!

yes, I am a RACV member. Can I get it towed even it is from my mech's place? Can you recommend a good auto elec in vic?

I don't really understand what he says, but basically, because the alarm has not been working for a while, this creates problem. And the ignition has burnt. If my alarm works ok, no problem. But frankly speaking, I do not really understand....*sigh*

I knew this mech for 2 years, his workshop is just happened near my office, so it is convenient for me...but I guess not I have to pay it back..

I don't know what to do :cry: :cry: :cry:
He emphasised that no one will be able to get parts for me. As in Australia, there are only 8-10 cars with similar like me (has immobiliser).
Do you think I can call any auto elec to come to his premises? Thanks.

He is obviously lying, doesn't mean that even you dont have a immoliser and alarm doesnt mean it cant move. and even worse cases you can fit a new immobiliser and alarm with any authorise store. Definately he is playing with you knowing that you know nothing about mechanics. I can see $$$ in his eyes. I am very sure Immoboliser is compulsory but not the alarm.

There is no unique Magna here in Aust that cant be fix IMO. The fact that he said 8-10 cars he knows it can be done. Maybe he only fixed 8-10 Magnas in his life. :doubt:

well, he has cut the wires. I can see all the wiring under the steering. Lots of wires and make me scare...

he also said, because he cut the wires therefore he can not undo, as the cars has computer????? :confused: :confused: :confused:

which mechanic is this if u don mind me askin??

It seems he has said he has cut the wires etc etc to scare u into thinking u cant go elsewhere with it.

he is somewhere in springvale vic. He said he has rang IMLACH (mitsubishi wrecker) to get this "rare"parts...

If a car with an immobiliser can be stolen it can be bypassed even easier, given the fact he is a mechanic :nuts: Do the scam above and get it towed to an autoelectrician, get the old alarm removed or replaced with a new cheap one.

I don;t mind to pay for second opinion for reliable auto elect to come and see my car...

I'll tell ya what i've done before, u may have to get him to put the wiring covers back on if u can't do this yourself, and then call RACV, and tell them ur car's broken down. Give the mechanic's address and make sure u say the car won't start and you need a towtruck (Not a patrol man).

Then, when the Towie arrives, if any questions are asked, then just say she broke down nearby and u brought it in to the mech, but want it towed to your own mechanic somewhere else.

I have done this a cpl of times in the past with my old car (Suzie-rest her soul), coz it broke down all the time.

Just be careful of a cpl of things :

1-The mechanic may want you to pay for the "Work" he has already done by looking at the car, and
2-Depending on your level of RACV membership, you may have a limit on your towiing distance, after which a charge per km applies.

Give this a shot, should be easy. Just tell the mechanic your cousing is an auto elec and ur having it towed to his place - this may help u avoind confrontaion.

Another tip, without being sexist - it may help to take a man along - broher/father/man friend/other. I have found this sometimes helps.

thanks trevmanox, could you refer me to reliable auto elect? do you think it is worth it to just call the auto elect to come and see what he can do? thanks,jenny

thanks trevmanox, could you refer me to reliable auto elect? do you think it is worth it to just call the auto elect to come and see what he can do? thanks,jenny
if u can find a mobile auto elec u may find this easier to get hime to come down and have a look.
I could recommend my own mechanic - he's in collingwood though (a bit far), or the auto elec i have dealt with before - in northcote. Both are a little far from you.


Though lots of members in the south east - anyone else have any recommendations??????

Oh, ok then... I will tell you now.
Pull the immobiliser off the car - involves dropping the lower shroud and the steering wheel (not really necessary, but gives you better access). Use a pin punch and hammer to undo the snap off bolts that hold the steering lock in place. Pull the whole lock with immobiliser and barrel out of the car - don't forget the wiring connectors. Put the key in the lock, turn it to acc and push the pin on the side - the barrel comes off easily.
Now the tricky part - use a small hacksaw to cut open the locking sections of the immobiliser. When you pull the barrel, a spring pushes a white plastic plate off the shaft. This normally rotates and cuts a light beam on/off as you start the car, but with the white plastic pushed off the shaft the ECU thinks some thief has ripped the ignition lock out and is trying to steal your car. Remove the spring and push the white plastic disc back in place. Glue it down if you want to, but I didn't bother. Put the immobiliser body back together, and wrap masking tape around it to hold it together. Reassemble in reverse - the break off bolts can be reused or use ordinary 12 mm head bolts like I did.
I did this "fix" 12 months ago and have had no problems - no immobiliser either, but who is going to steal a 11 year old Magna when there are Commodores around? LOL


I am doing a research on this forum, and come into that post, do you reckon that is a similar situation with me?

try sending an email or pm to MadMax.
may take a while to reply, but he (or she) seems to have had some experience with this.

Theres an awesome auto electrician in berwick in enterprise drive. Very helpful.
Only 8-10 cars? As if!
Like i said earlier, sounds like this mechanic has no idea and an auto electrician will be able to help you. I'd say it's got something to do with the immobiliser.

thanks m4ddog, could you pls give me the details of this mechanic? I will try to call him. Should I say who referred me? ta.

http://www.berwickauto.com.au/
No point referring me, they wouldn't know who i am lol. Only been there twice with my last car. Bought a new alternator from them and it went caput after a year (had a 2 year warranty) and they replaced it on the spot with a brand new one, and added another 2 years for that alternator. I've only ever had to go to an auto electrician that once, so next alternator i need i'll be going back there for sure. I would buy batteries from them but they are an excide dealer, i prefer century :).
*edit*
You might as well tell them a past customer referred to them, they might get a warm feeling inside? lol.

ok... the problem you are describing sounds like it is in the immobilser unit.. the factory unit! yes, the mechanic is RIGHT, the part is no longer available for the TS magna, not even japan stocks them anymore.. all units were sold off early this year! the mechanic is RIGHT saying its rare to get, 'cos you need the whole unit, barrel, immobiliser etc.. you cant seperate the barrel from the immobiliser.. wont work! if a wrecker does even have one, the complete barrel and all will need to be grabbed, meaning new keys will need to be cut to suit and locks coded! if the problem was an aftermarket alarm, surely the mechanic could just cut it out, cmon fellas.. give the guy some credit! so my advice to you is, take the car to a MITSUBISHI DEALER, they will know how to bypass the factory immobiliser, its a very simple wire splicing job, which i wont post here because that would just be giving advice on how to steal a car.. so please dont ask! so ladies and gents.. dont let this poor girl think that her mechanic is some shark trying to rip her off.. from the sounds of it.. he is trying his best.. he just doesnt have the knowledge most dealer staff have! in otherwords, unless you know whats going, please shut up! thanks, and good luck!

Hi Mitsu,thanks for calling in. Do you how much does it cost? approx? My mech got auto elect came in and quote $1400. that's heaps!!!

Hi Mitsu,thanks for calling in. Do you how much does it cost? approx? My mech got auto elect came in and quote $1400. that's heaps!!!

I pity the second gens if this is the case. For $1400, I will add another $1000 and get a whole new TS/TR altogether:nuts: In other words grab a new car. Can second gen members help in this?

Dont think is practicle at all. I advise to ask around.

And you would get probly $500 or more at a wreckers for your car, i say wreck it and buy a new one :)

As far as I know all TSs have the 4 wire immobiliser. Cutting the wires is not a good idea - the ECU is looking for a signal from the immibiliser electronics - if just cutting the wires to "bypass" it, wouldn't it make it very ineffective as a theft deterant? Think about it!
The description she quoted from me earlier should be printed out and shown to the mechanic to ACT ON!
I had the same problem - stiff key, pull the barrel out, lube it, put it back in - no start! The immobiliser has a white disk (an optical chopper, sends signal to ECU when it is working properly) which gets pushed off the shaft by a spring when the barrel is pulled out. Just open the immobiliser (hacksaw), remove the spring, push the disk back on, reassemble (masking tape) and drive away! Worked for me! And, yes, new bits not available, and yes, the Mitsu dealer could't care less!

To TEST that the problem is the immobiliser, get the mechanic to reconnect the cut wires, then put the key in and turn the ignition on. Wait 30 minutes or more, then try to start the car. If the immobiliser is active, the car will start after 30 minutes. On the other hand, if this is "too hard" for the mechanic, sell me the car and I will fix it!http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/images/smilies/bowrofl.gif
:bowrofl:

WTF?? http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/images/smilies/abadgrin.gif
:badgrin:

GGGRRRRRRR stoopid smileys.....

All I know my "fix" worked for me, and didn't cost anything!

Yes I've realised I was wrong to say that there no TR/TS models with the additional immobiliser. I had absolutely forgotten of ETACS, which is the stock security system on the Elite models, the Verada range, and possible also the SE model.

ETACS also required keys to be coded, just like a lot of newer cars. I do know the lower models, ie. GLX and Executive models should not need to have their keys coded since this ETACS system wasn't available for those, and to my historical knowledge, ETACS wasn't an option for Exec's and the like.

So I still find it hard that this 'Executive' model had ETACS on it. Then again I do know there is some sort of immobiliser fitted on all the models (not neccessary part of ETACS). And to tell you the truth, I havn't personally investigated the way the stock immoboliser works, and I'll need to consult the wiring diagram and crack open an ignition key socket and see inside (barring in mind it will be a while before I do that since our 2nd gen has recently been written off, and I'm in the process of trying to buy it back).

TS exec has a sticker on the back glass stating "immobiliser fitted, coded radio" - I think they all have this sticker. TR doesn't (correct me if this info is wrong - might just be TS after a certain build date).It's not ETACS - exec has the immobiliser on the bottom of the ignition barrel, and the key is plain metal - my spare key is anyway,the original has a plastic head on it, but no internal electronics. I haven't seen any manual with details about the immobiliser in it. My Gregory's manual shows how to pull the barrel out, but doesn't mention the effect this has on the immobiliser - that's how I was caught out. Pull yours apart and see if you can work out how it works. (HINT: ever seen the inside of an old computer mouse?) lol

The official Mitsu manual doesn't mention the immobiliser either.....:shock:

I'm currently looking for a manual wagon - might give the second gens a miss if they are not supported by Mitsu spare parts supply.

Hi guys, after my last post in this forum, this happened: I rang more than 20 wreckers in Australia and could not get one (ignition switch with emobiliser 4 wire). One of Adelaide wrecker (magnawreck) said got one, but when he was about to post it out, he found out he has not got the key, so bad luck.
Anyway, i mentioned before that my mechanic invited one auto elec who quoted $1400. And I was wondering, why don't I call Mitsubishi dealer and see whether they can fix / by pass or whatever it is...?
So I called Mitsubishi dealer and talked to one guy at Service Dept, and what he said was really unbelieavable. He said, they know that they can not get the parts, and yet he said he can fix / (bypass, they said)...Wow, and it costs approx $180. It made me shock. Is this somekind of joke or what? I got auto elec quoted me $1400 and this guy only quoted me $180?
They said they faced this kind of problem before and they can fix it. They recommend to bring (tow) it in on Wednesday. I just can not believe it!!! What do you think guys? I just afraid that once I bring my car in, they advised me other things, which leads me to dead end again, and yet...I know mitsubishi dealer could not care less!!! Mitsubishi dealer can not come to my mech site to inspect the car...

What should I do???? Option:
1. Let the mechanic get the cheapest quote with auto elec? or
2. Just tow the car to Mitsubishi dealer with certain risk????

Pls advise...

Thank you
Jenny

For $180, tow it in. Compared to $1400, there's really nothing to loose.

If you do, see if you can find out the procedure, this is the first time i've heard about immoboliser problems on the 2nd gen, and it'll be handy to know if this problem ever comes up again for any member here.


Oh and on our TS Exec build date Aug 94, there was no sticker saying "immobiliser fitted, coded radio...", and in fact I don't remember the radio being security coded as well.

Yes, I was gonna tow it in as well. But wondering, why is that such huge difference on price? It looks very fishy...:confused: :confused: :confused: :doubt: :doubt:

Why???????

Instead of the price difference, I was wondering, what is the real meaning of "bypass" in this instance? Does it mean my car won't have immobiliser? I definately do not mind lossing this feature, as I do not think people want to steal my car...:):)
So does it mean that my existing immobiliser does not work anymore? or the switch? If the existing immobiliser is faulty, then ok, bypass will do, but if the swicth is faulty there is no point bypassing...am I right???? :confused: :confused: :confused:

Instead of the price difference, I was wondering, what is the real meaning of "bypass" in this instance? Does it mean my car won't have immobiliser? I definately do not mind lossing this feature, as I do not think people want to steal my car...:):)
So does it mean that my existing immobiliser does not work anymore? or the switch? If the existing immobiliser is faulty, then ok, bypass will do, but if the swicth is faulty there is no point bypassing...am I right????

yes jenny, this will likely mean the immobiliser may no longer work.
i'd say - take it to mitsu and let the bloke explain to ya what's going on, unless u have $1400 to spend on this car.........:doubt:

Yes, I was gonna tow it in as well. But wondering, why is that such huge difference on price? It looks very fishy... :confused: :confused: :doubt: :doubt:

Why???????


doesnt sound fishy at all, an auto electrician only gets paid when he has jobs to do, so hes gonna charge you as much as he can, the guy at mitsu is on wages, plus its probably a very small problem just like mitsumad said and is only worth 180 bucks, and i dont see the "risks" in taking it to the mitsu dealer, if they start sying "you should get this and that done" just say "NO"........see, not that hard is it :eh:

Hi all, I came to dead end again. I spoke to my mechanic advising whether I can get it towed to Mitsubishi....I told him that someone from mitsubishi can "bypass" only for $180.
He was laughing...he said it is not just bypassing the immobiliser, BUT THE WHOLE THINGS, right thru the ECU , injector...etc..etc...
He is very happy if I can take out my car as I am taking off his space..but if I bring it to mitsu dealer and they can not fix it, then what's the point? Even they can fix it, it would cost more expensive rather than get the independent auto elec to fix it?

Please advise..I totally confused rite now...seems It just around the bush...

Thanks,
Jenny

Hi all, I came to dead end again. I spoke to my mechanic advising whether I can get it towed to Mitsubishi....I told him that someone from mitsubishi can "bypass" only for $180.
He was laughing...he said it is not just bypassing the immobiliser, BUT THE WHOLE THINGS, right thru the ECU , injector...etc..etc...
He is very happy if I can take out my car as I am taking off his space..but if I bring it to mitsu dealer and they can not fix it, then what's the point? Even they can fix it, it would cost more expensive rather than get the independent auto elec to fix it?

Please advise..I totally confused rite now...seems It just around the bush...

Thanks,
Jenny
I'm a little confused with your post, you told the mechanic mitusbishi can bypass the immobiliser and he laughed and said they couldn't? A mitsubishi dealership will be able to fix it, heck they work on them all day they should have SOME idea! If mitsubishi said they can fix it, then you dont have anything to worry about.

I'm a little confused with your post, you told the mechanic mitusbishi can bypass the immobiliser and he laughed and said they couldn't? A mitsubishi dealership will be able to fix it, heck they work on them all day they should have SOME idea! If mitsubishi said they can fix it, then you dont have anything to worry about.

second that.

mitsu dealer is the definite way forward.

didn't i say this mech was a wierdo....thats it from me :D

Hi all, I came to dead end again. I spoke to my mechanic advising whether I can get it towed to Mitsubishi....I told him that someone from mitsubishi can "bypass" only for $180.
He was laughing...he said it is not just bypassing the immobiliser, BUT THE WHOLE THINGS, right thru the ECU , injector...etc..etc...
He is very happy if I can take out my car as I am taking off his space..but if I bring it to mitsu dealer and they can not fix it, then what's the point? Even they can fix it, it would cost more expensive rather than get the independent auto elec to fix it?

Please advise..I totally confused rite now...seems It just around the bush...

Thanks,
Jenny

Hey Jenny, Dont let this mechanic screw you up any more, just take it into mistubishi, get them to by pass it. After installing a new engine into my bros commodore we had to by pass the immobiliser, Everything still works. I think hes is giving a last attempt to enpty your pockets. Take it to the mitsu dealer, and say, i only want this done, nothing else. maybe you can get a definite price before they start.

Check your TS owners handbook. It will advise under 'immobiliser' or 'security' that the ignition switch should not be disassembled. Mine is a metal key only with key lock tamper immobiliser.

I got this info from the NRMA.

If the Intelligent lock Assembly (ILA) is replaced it will require a new Immobilizer Control Unit (ICU). Once an ICU has been paired with an ILA it will not work with another ILA. The ICU has a diagnostic connecter near the Scan tool multi-pin plug this can be read in Morse format using a 3-5 watt globe between the diagnostic connector and earth. This connector is a single spade terminal on a flying lead near the drivers right ankle. If you get a:

short long long code - indicates that the ILA is not connected to the ICU or the wiring is damaged or there is an ICU fault.
Short short long - an ICU error
Short long short - ILA not connected OR immobiliser is in the tampered state
Short short short - system OK

And as previously advised, if the original unit is reassembled and ign left on for 30 minutes, despite the fact that the unit is tampered with the car WILL start.

I'm going through the same process right now! I'll keep the forum advised.

Mitsubishi can not help me, the guy that I spoke to the other day was not in, he is on leave until next week. I spoke to other person in mitsubishi and they don't even care. They just said i need to speak to first person..

My mech is very cross and he organised other auto elec to come and quoted me $495 to start the car. But the auto elec strongly recommend me to sell the car. (How much can I get for this car? I love this car..)
He can not guarantee that this will work for a long term, but if I have a problem starting the car, he will come again to make the car starts.
This $495 is not a proper job, therefore sometime the computer can not read / sometime it can read,...but If I want to do the proper job,I have to pay $1400 (this will give me a guarantee). He said he has somekind of scanner to read the code right thru to ECU,..bla bla bla..

Wahroonga Farm, you mean did you have same problem as me? did you get the parts?

Hi,

Similar problem but TS auto. Starter wouldn't turn over (would sometimes, but not if the cabin temp rose, real odd). So temporary fix was a hot wire from cig plug to starter solenoid. 100% solution.

OK until the missus left the starter 'starting' as she drove (which melted the starter motor), so after replacing the starter, I thought I'd better fix it properly. Finally traced problem (I think) to a dicky start position contact on the ign switch. Simple thinks I, pull it all apart and replace the switch (switch part only mind you). Then I read the owners manual!

From there on my problem has been the same as yours. However I've not cut any wires and have a completely original matched set and in the throes of putting back in the original ignition contact switch (the bit right at the back), as for the life of me I can't work out yet how the tamper mechanism actually works. If I could work that out surely it could be defeated or reset or something. Mitsu no help but at least my local guy had seen the problem before which an auto elec fixed by replacing everything at great cost! Which you have already found out. Good one Mr Mitsubishi, thanks for the help!

So I suspect your Mitsu agent has a few more brain neurons than most and can either 'reset it' or 'defeat it'. $180, sounds good and if it works I'd appreciate if you could post who the Mitsu dealer is so that we can get our dealer to talk to him/her, if I'm still stuck.

I'll let you know if I make a breakthrough. I haven't quite got my head around the hacksaw solution by MadMAx. Which I'm reading again now. An here is a pic of the bit in question showing the ign switch and the bit with the ILA in it.

Hi,

I'll let you know if I make a breakthrough. I haven't quite got my head around the hacksaw solution by MadMAx. Which I'm reading again now. An here is a pic of the bit in question showing the ign switch and the bit with the ILA in it.

The pic that you attached, mine one got bit part with a key barrel and got "black bit" . So the whole parts that I am searching is bit longer than your picture.

Just a thought, Jenny, as you are an RACV member, maybe they can give you some advice over the phone? I'd at least ask them for the number of an auto electrician they recommend.;)

Better still, if you have insurance, I'd ring them and ask who is your local approved repairer. But maybe you've already tried this?

Hi,yes, I did call RACV and they can not help me much. They said they can not advice me that far.
While with insurance, same ..I am with RACV...

My TS is nov 95. I guess the immobiliser was only added later in the TS range.
Can't see the thumbmail, so can't confirm it's he same as mine, but I'd out money on it . . .

definately dodgey... and from what i understand, legally, he can NOT hold ur car (whether you pay him or not and i suggest you don't) if he won't give u the car back call the cops and he'll be in the sh*t.

take it outta there and go to an auto elec... definately and immoboliser problem... i had more or less the same prob with my car and all it was was a loose wire. NO SPARE PARTS NECESSARY.. :D

:D Well thanks to the MadMax's surgical solution, I'm back on the road. Even worked out how to re-arm the little devil again. So sucked in the next blithering idiot who thinks he can simply replace or repair my ignition switch.

Of course it would all be able to be overcome and readily repaired; if Mitsu put together a little immobiliser repair kit, that even with exhorbinant spares pricing you could but together for less than $20. The kit would comprise two steel pins and a diecast cover (three little parts in all). Without these you need to resort to tape and a bit of hope that the whole thing doesn't decide to diassemble itself one day. But that doesn't worry me too much as now I know how to fix it.

Thanks again to MadMax who pioneered a very brave and injenious immobiliser solution here!!!

And of course this technique is thankfully of no use to a thief.

Sounds you've gone thru ..well done. Mine one is still sitting nicely in my mech's premises...On monday I printed all things in forum and he did not even want to read them. He said they are scraps....Huh...I was very mad, and I just do not know what to say, I just left the whole papers on his desk.

jus tow the car to the Mitsu dealer and they will sort it out, i think u've messed about with this mech enough now IMAO.

I'm a hero! (Sits back with a happy grin on his face)

Ok here is my summary of this (it would appear not uncommon TS fault/problem).

1. A TS magna has a problem with the ignition lock assembly e.g. stiff lock or faulty ignition switch. Mine was a faulty ignition switch ie key would not activate the starter motor (same as Jennyosh's).
2. The ignition lock consists of the key lock barrel (steering lock), immobiliser unit and at the rear the actual ignition switch. 3 distinct parts. My previous thumbnail shows the last two components. Each part is held to the other by a single phillips head screw.
3. THE PROBLEM. If you seperate any of the three parts, a mechanical spring activated mechanism immediately releases WITHIN the immobiliser unit. The immobiliser unit is now 'immobilised'. It CANNOT be electrically reset. It must be repaired by either
a. replacing the entire KEY LOCK ASSEMBLY and a MATCHING ECU (the code in the ILA must match the ECU) ... this is now not possible and if it were very, very expensive!! or
b. by disassembling the immobliser section of the lock and mechanically re-setting the unit or disabling it completely.
c. or the ECU can be bypassed. I believe some Mitsu agents understand this fix and can perform this technique, however once the ECU is bypassed, the car will no longer have a functioning immobiliser. This is probably OK for it's age. Problem is to find a Mitsu dealer with the know how to do this!! It is a simple procedure. I do not know how this is done and others are not willing to share this information as it would be useful to a Magna TS car thief.
4. So with that background the ONLY way forward on our own is to impliment the MadMax!
5. TS ignition switches alone are readily available from wreckers (the white plastic bit with wires). TR's share the same switch, so no problem at all to get one! I paid $40 for mine (probably overpriced). This fixed 'my fail to turn the starter' problem. So you can replace the key barrel and/or the ignition switch, but you MUST re-install the original immobiliser section as it is matched to other electronics in the car (ECU). Without this matching the car will not go again!
6. This is the tricky bit. The immobiliser (the bit with the 4 wire connector) is securely enclosed to prevent tampering. The diecast body is held together by two hardened steel pins, one either side. Do NOT attempt to drill them out. No! Get out your hacksaw and carefully remove metal surrounding these two pins. When you have removed sufficient diecast, you will be able to grasp the pins and pull them out. Yes it is horrible, but you DO want the car to go again don't you? Now carefully seperate the two halves of the immobiliser in a clean environment and carfully note the orientation of all parts. You will also find that a small ball bearing drops out from 'no where'. This is actually the immobiliser 'lock'. You should have: 1 ball bearing, one white disc on a shaft with a spring behind it, 1 small plastic spindle (the trigger) that fits into the white disc assembly, the main immobiliser body with ILA electronics, and the immobliser cover which you have just 'butchered' with two pins. I'll leave this part up to you, but by carefully working out how it all goes together, you will find that you can pop the ball bearing back into a little hole in the main shaft and re-arm the assembly. The trigger shaft is held back in place by two delicate plastic fingers which prevent the assembly from 'triggering' whist you reassemble it. The unit is armed the moment the unit is all back together and you turn the key for the first time. If this is too tricky, remove the larger spring and super glue the white disc in the 'armed' position. OK you won't have an active immobiliser, but the car WILL go! Now reassemble and secure the two halves of the immobiliser by reinserting the pins into the 'butchered' cover and glueing or taping or whatever technique you can think of to hold them together again and the job is almost done. Carefully re-assemble all of the ign key lock assembly, connect the igniton wires plug/socket and the 4 wire ILA plug/socket, hold your breath and hit start. IT WILL!
7. You can access a single phillips head screw on the top side of the barrel with a very small or angled phillips head driver to allow seperation of the immobilser and ignition lock assembly (the parts shown in my thumbnail) WITHOUT removing the key lock barrel.

So there you have it. The Madmax.

And here is the culprit. One faulty ignition switch.

.... and Jennyosh, I think it's your obviously very helpful local Mitsu agent who is your best shot.

I don't have a lot of faith in your mechanics ability to fix it from here via the 'Madmax', (realistically his only way forward).

Let us know how you go.

Does your imbolizer lock the doors as soon as the engine is started? And likewise does it unlock the doors as soon as you turn the engine off? The imoblizer in my daughters car does, so they are ore out there than you know.

Brilliant summary !

Has anyone worked out when this wonderous immobiliser was incorporated on the TS? Mine (now with disabled immobiliser :D ) is Feb 1995. I ask because I want to get another TS (white wagon v6 manual) without the immobiliser.

Current garage occupants: 2004 Lancer 2L manual.
TS 2.6L manual sedan.
TP 2.6 L manual wagon.

Wow...excellent...badluck that I am not that lucky as you. Mine one still struggling...one auto elec tried to fix it but he has spent 3 days in /out my mech's premises and could not fix it yet...

I give them one more day, and after that I will tow it to mitsu dealer....

Wow...excellent...badluck that I am not that lucky as you. Mine one still struggling...one auto elec tried to fix it but he has spent 3 days in /out my mech's premises and could not fix it yet...

I give them one more day, and after that I will tow it to mitsu dealer....

If you are going to end up taking your car to a Mitsubishi dealer, it would be a good idea to ring a few around your area first and explain the situation. This way you can see which one looks the most promising to help your situation. :D

No offence, but this thing with your mechanic and your car has been going on long enough dont you think???

I tell you what, if that was my car, it would have been out of there ages ago. This guy has stuffed you around so much already, just pick your car up, tow it out drag it out whatever. Dont you know any males or anything that can go pick it up for you?

Hi guys,...I am still stuck here.
My mechanic invited 4 auto elecs to have a look and all of them gave up, one of them "partially" fix the car, means: my car can start, BUT...the key has to stay there (attached) and put on the "ACC" position. Once the keys has been taken off from the switch, we have to wait for an hour to get the car start again.
The mech has driven the car to mitsu dealer, and yes, they confirmed they can not do it, I HAVE TO get the whole parts.

So..I will be going to LOCKSMITH to get the key copied to open/lock the doors, but I have to leave the key there...

Any suggestion?? thanks...

Hi guys,...I am still stuck here.
My mechanic invited 4 auto elecs to have a look and all of them gave up, one of them "partially" fix the car, means: my car can start, BUT...the key has to stay there (attached) and put on the "ACC" position. Once the keys has been taken off from the switch, we have to wait for an hour to get the car start again.
The mech has driven the car to mitsu dealer, and yes, they confirmed they can not do it, I HAVE TO get the whole parts.

So..I will be going to LOCKSMITH to get the key copied to open/lock the doors, but I have to leave the key there...

Any suggestion?? thanks...
Buy a new car lol.

Jenny, I am concerned that your mechanic invited 4 auto electricians to come and look at the car and he drove it to the mitsubishi dealer. I wouldn't want to be in your shoes when this guy hands over his bill, whether your car is fixed or not.:doubt:

I'm about to book my car in for a service. I'll ask my mechanic what he thinks, but don't hold your breath.

So I called Mitsubishi dealer and talked to one guy at Service Dept, and what he said was really unbelieavable. He said, they know that they can not get the parts, and yet he said he can fix / (bypass, they said)...Wow, and it costs approx $180.

Hi Jen, What happened to this Mitsu guy? He appears to be offering a simple 'by pass the security feature' solution. This is far and away your best solution.

It appears your car is now all back to normal electrically (almost), however as I have explained previously, your immobiliser has been (mechanically) triggered by the mechanic who dissassembled your ignition switch. This means that the car won't start normally.

Instead you must leave the key in and on ACC position for 30 minutes. Then the car will start. The car will continue to start normally AS LONG AS YOU START IT AGAIN WITHIN 30 seconds (you can remove the key). If you don't start within 30 sec you must go through the 30 minute 'accessory on' cycle again! This is of course almost useless, but it does allow you to take the car to someone who may be able to fix it.

So find that Mitsu agent with the 'bypass' solution. The only other way is to perform the MadMax on the immobiliser (as long as it is still the original one fitted to your vehicle). It worked for MadMax and me, but you will need someone with the dexterity and patience of a brain surgeon.

driving around with a bypassed and removed factory immobiliser is illegal im pretty sure because i thought i had this same problem with my 3rd gen a while back

Illegal? Why?

Illegal? Why?
I cant see it being illegal, but uninsurable, definitly.

I'll be interested to hear how this works out, Jenny.

My mechanic agrees it's a pain of a problem to fix, but he would use a local locksmith franchise who specializes in automotive (called Lock-U-Up). I doubt they're in Melbourne because I couldn't find them in the Yellow Pages, however, I did see a whopping great ad for Oakleigh Locksmiths - 9568 6344. I'd at least call them.;)

Your best bet would be to ask family, friends and/or work colleagues if they have used a good locksmith. Hope this helps.:)

Hi all, thanks for input. Yes, I have taken my car and he charged me for $150. (When he promised me to get it fixed, he quoted $495). Now, considering he only fixed partially, I think it is reasonable to charge for that amount. Yes, my mech drove my car to mitsu dealer, and once they saw my car, they said they can not fix it. So the best solution, so that I can drive my car, is just leave the car there. Like warrongafarm said, I have to leave it there in "ACC" position.

but the mech did not say anything about 30 minutes' rule. He said that if I turn the key to OFF accidentally, I have to wait for an hour to get it start again..
So warronga farm, you mean , if I accidentally remove the key...I won't be able to start my car immediately right...so I have to leave the key on "ACC" for 30 min ? Is my understanding right?

Yes, I will go to locksmith oakleigh to get the key copied.

However, I was thinking, if the key is always on "ACC", does it effect my battery ? Thanks...

BTW, Imlach (Mitsu wrecker) just bought a car with a same problems like me (complete condition) and they paid only $800...? That's really hurt!!!

I plan to go to mitsu myself and see from them exactly...I will let you know how I go. Thanks.

Yeah got to Mitsubishi directly, I'm sure there is a simpler solution there somewhere (ie new mechanic?)

Yes leaving Acc on will flatten the battery. So just turn to acc 30 min prior to starting.

The 30 min was the rough figure I worked out when my vehicle was 'immobilised' (Madmax arrived at this figure also). This is the basic factory overide system which allows you to get an 'immobilised' car to Mitsubishi service. It still foils a thief as he/she would not want to hang around that long to take the car. But don't try to start earlier or you have to re-commence the wait period all over again. It does also appear to allow you to turn completely off for less than 30 sec and then start again. Any longer 'off period' and your back to the 30min or so 'acc on' start sequence.

60 mins as advised by your auto elec, just provides a very safe margin to ensure the car is ready to start (immobiliser negated). If you have time, investigate it yourself.

As I have said before you have only two options:

1. Mitsubishi - Who may 'permanently bypass' (very cheap) or 'replace' all parts of the immobiliser system (very very expensive)

2. Locksmith etc - Who can reset the actual immobiliser unit on the keylock assembly, by carefully opening and re-assembling the secure ILA. This option is only available if you still have the original ILA on your vehicle.

Yes leaving Acc on will flatten the battery. So just turn to acc 30 min prior to starting.Make sure your accessories (lights and radio) are switched off while you wait and then try to take the car for quite a long run to recharge the battery.;)

Its illegal to have it bypassed because you are not allowed to remove any factory safety/security features only allowed to modify or better them

Re: Immobiliser anxiety.

I used to leave the key in the ignition all the time, and lock/unlock the car with a second key. At work and in public car parks I draped a towel over the steering wheel to hide the key that was in the ignition. I did this for 3 months before I "fixed" the immobiliser. Never had a flat battery. Zoltan Junior, honestly, you don't know what you are talking about :bowrofl: I'd just LOVE to buy a TS in good condition for $800 if that's the only problem it has! Sell me your car Jenny, and I will have it running like a new one in one hour! lol If you don't want to do that, just use the towel trick.
PS disconnecting and reconnecting the battery while the key is in the ignition seems to bypass the 30 minute wait required normally with an actived immobiliser.

Yes Madmax!

The rest of you please try and keep on topic and focus on positive and constructive ways getting Jenny's bloody car going again. Otherwise it might as well be scrap.

Some of you worry warts with comments on flat batteries, misguided loyalty to the not so great Mitsu (although I do hope thaey come through here with a solution) and security scares, are not so helpful.

Today we have 40A alternators and pretty sophisticated electricals that basically look after themselves, except when we interfere; like that bloody TS immobiliser!

Yes Madmax!

The rest of you please try and keep on topic and focus on positive and constructive ways getting Jenny's bloody car going again. Otherwise it might as well be scrap.

Some of you worry warts with comments on flat batteries, misguided loyalty to the not so great Mitsu (although I do hope thaey come through here with a solution) and security scares, are not so helpful.

Today we have 40A alternators and pretty sophisticated electricals that basically look after themselves, except when we interfere; like that bloody TS immobiliser!
Are you guaranteeing no flat batteries ever again?:doubt:

I'm picturing 1/2 hour with radio on, 5 or 10 minute trip to shops/work/school, then possibly forgetting lights (hence friendly reminder) and another 1/2 hour with radio on and home in 5 or 10 minutes - and all this at least a couple of times a day! Just how long do you think the battery would survive that?:confused:

Read this as personal offence taken to your blanket post.:snooty:

Lady’s and Gents let’s just stick with facts.

A TS on 'Acc' typically draws 1A @ 12v. A typical battery in good condition will supply 60 Ampere hours i.e. it will deliver 1 ampere for 60 hours. It will deliver a bit less than 2 amps for 30 hours and so on.

If we leave it on Acc while we shop for 3 hours it will consume 3A/h or 3/60x100 = 5% of total battery capacity.

Now typical lead acid batteries charge to 85% of their full capacity very rapidly and at high current (attended to by modern alternators). The last 15% is much harder to replace and takes several hours at lower current. This is managed by our modern vehicles charging systems.

Typically most city vehicles will operate around the 85% charged battery level, due to the continual demands we put on our batteries by relatively short driving periods in typical city driving. The occasional extended hours of operation (long drive) will afford a 100% charge. And yes this is not a bad thing to maintain your battery in good health and maximise its life.

Summary

Leaving the car on Acc will provide an additional load on the battery, but this will be rapidly replaced (15-30 min) by our alternators.

The message is that we should all afford our batteries the opportunity of a full charge from time to time. A regulated battery charger also does a good job.

As for Jennyosh, well she is really no worse off than the rest of us as long as she doesn’t leave her car on Acc for continuous extended periods.

PS Remember when we had to leave our parking lights on at night while we went to dinner (4x5w = 2A/h) and in those days we had lousy 10A generators to try to make up the deficit.

Thanks all, I really appreciate all your input, I really do.

For the time being, I will use the "towel trick" until I have organised myself to go to mitsu dealer myself and hear myself what they say.
I am quite keen to follow Magic Madmax's instruction, but pity I am not familiar with this....(remember, I printed out to my mech and he said all internet's things are scrap..and I just left the papers on his desk)....

Anyway, warongafarm, you mentioned before about "the original parts", I wasn't told anything by mech about this thing..anyway, so with this condition, does it mean that my car still has the original parts?? because I remember he mentioned that my parts has faulty already.....seems bit contradiction...hmmmm...:confused: :confused:

I have tried before, I took the key off and I ended up waiting for approx 40 min to get the car start again......lol

Luv Ya Jenny!:badgrin:

When on ACC what accessories are actually drawing current? ACC allows current to flow to the accessories if needed, but what if they are all turned off?? :nuts:

In this case, the immobiliser for one, but it'd only be a dribble. I haven't measured the actual current (my son is back in Syney happily driving), simply assumed worst possible case to demonstrate how batteries work. There just may be some other engine management stuff pre-powered at Acc position? In any case the actual starting of the car will be the biggest hit the battery gets (not leaving Acc on).