Question is fairly straight forward, but the answer may not.

Whiteline offer two different caster kits with anti-lift for the TE/TJ range.

A 22mm OD pin Push on type

or a 18mm OD pin threaded type. (Makes use of retaining nut on rear of control arm)

Anyway,

My question is what kit goes with which model/s (Is it that simple?)

(And no I haven't checked my TJ yet.)

Another question is how easy is it to fit either of these kits at home. I read that Meh had some trouble with the push on type.

**Update**
97 TE Exec? has 22mm OD push on type - GreenMatt
98 TF Sports has 22mm OD push on type - Meh
99 TH Adv has 22mm OD push on type - TecoDan

only trouble i had was that i couldnt bench press out the old part so had to get it cut out then the new one went in easliy

but yeh it was fine other then that, just slipped into place nice n easy

only trouble i had was that i couldnt bench press out the old part so had to get it cut out then the new one went in easliy

but yeh it was fine other then that, just slipped into place nice n easy

Was it hard to cut out? Ie. Stanley knife job/prise/pull it out with pliers?

My old 97 TE Advance had 22mm. Not sure what my AWD has.

i'm also looking at this... any1 got a pic of what i have to check. i don't completely understand what part it is (i get what it does)

i'm also looking at this... any1 got a pic of what i have to check. i don't completely understand what part it is (i get what it does)

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19914&highlight=anti+lift

This is an old thread from Meh.

22mm pin for me - TH Magna Advance wagon

Was it hard to cut out? Ie. Stanley knife job/prise/pull it out with pliers?
got it done at some shop so i never seen wat they did it with but im thinkin a hacksaw

got it done at some shop so i never seen wat they did it with but im thinkin a hacksaw
probably a cold chisel and hammer, you often have to cut the metal surround of the old bush if they are really tight.

from what I understand when I had mine done - there is no way to tell from year or VIN what type you actually have - the more experienced shops order both parts and use what fits once they see the actual car - returning the other. Given that you'll need a post-fitting wheel alignment anyway, and that fitting isn't that dear on these kits ($80 - $120 mark) but that its a hell of a job without a hydraulic press, you're far better off getting it done for you than DIY.

Well I had the Magna up on the ramps on the weekend and changed fuel filter, engine oil and filter and inspected my lower control arm bushes.

It seems that I too have the 22mm push on type. There was a shiny end cap on the control arm but no nut you could put a socket on and tighten up to 100Nm. Least I know what I'm up for.

And on a side note. Castrol Magnatec runs sweetly in a 3.5L. Had GTX3 in before from last service and the difference was noticable immediately. I only had the GTX3 in for 5000km and remember not noticing any difference when it was fresh. Decided that I'll do my own maintenance and use Magnatec. Highly recommended.

had the guys check when they fitted my new tyres and i got 22mm as well.

i gots a 2003 TJ2 exec sedan.

Okay,

Can anyone with the ALK fitted describe whether the ride (NVH)- Noise vibration and Harshness has been detrimentally affected since installing? Ie. Does the kit cause an increase in cabin noise, vibrations etc?

Alittle off topic sorry, but still whiteline...

Im about to get front and rear sway bars, and shawn from phillcom is asking me if i have a stock rear sway bar already. I personally have no idea....
I drive a 2000 KJ Verada

Cheers,
Russell

Okay,

Can anyone with the ALK fitted describe whether the ride (NVH)- Noise vibration and Harshness has been detrimentally affected since installing? Ie. Does the kit cause an increase in cabin noise, vibrations etc?

I had it done on my old TE and it actually improved NVH but that may have been cause the old one was shagged and giving excessive movement. As for the sway bar VRADA stick your head under the car, he is asking if you have one otherwise you will have to get the link kit too.

Here is what is on mine:

Thanks Greenmatt,

Interesting to see that you have the 18mm type. First person I've heard about with the locking nut. Everyone else who has replied (including myself have the 22mm pushon type).

Is yours a whiteline ALK. Can't make out the antilift plates and isn't the bush supposed to be yellow? or do they come in black?

Yes i'm sure all bushings from Whiteline are yellow, greenmatt you sure you didn't replace it with an OEM bushing?


As to how it affects NVH levels, well unfortunately I can't tell you that since I had everything done at once. But I can tell you the NVH levels for my car has become a lot lower now, but luckily not to the point where your kidneys start hurting, its just firm, quite firm.

Actually it has improved over the last 8000km's, I really wasn't too happy when it was all in, basically it felt a lot rougher (as in you can feel everything) compared to my mates Silvia with the works kit. 1500km's in, it still felt just as bad. It literally took 8000 km's for the springs to bed in and now its a lot more comfortable, I was really suprised it took that long for them to bed in!

Thanks Greenmatt,

Interesting to see that you have the 18mm type. First person I've heard about with the locking nut. Everyone else who has replied (including myself have the 22mm pushon type).

Is yours a whiteline ALK. Can't make out the antilift plates and isn't the bush supposed to be yellow? or do they come in black?

I only had it done to my old car. That picture is of the AWD standard. And yes they were yellow.

Yes i'm sure all bushings from Whiteline are yellow, greenmatt you sure you didn't replace it with an OEM bushing?


As to how it affects NVH levels, well unfortunately I can't tell you that since I had everything done at once. But I can tell you the NVH levels for my car has become a lot lower now, but luckily not to the point where your kidneys start hurting, its just firm, quite firm.

Actually it has improved over the last 8000km's, I really wasn't too happy when it was all in, basically it felt a lot rougher (as in you can feel everything) compared to my mates Silvia with the works kit. 1500km's in, it still felt just as bad. It literally took 8000 km's for the springs to bed in and now its a lot more comfortable, I was really suprised it took that long for them to bed in!

When I upgrade my springs/shocks I'll be going for a VRX/KYB combo. Mainly to keep a level of factory comfort in the ride. Front sway bar will be done when/if I decide to go ahead with the ALK.

How noticable is the prodive? Do you ever get the feeling of slidding off line if/when you have had to break heavy whilst cornering? (I realise it not good driving practise but something to consider when many drivers (typically in front of you) brake whilst turning.)

I only had it done to my old car. That picture is of the AWD standard. And yes they were yellow.

Ah, the picture makes sense now. Is there any logic to Mitsu's interchanging use of both rear control arm bushings? ie. push on v. threaded

I had it done on my old TE and it actually improved NVH but that may have been cause the old one was shagged and giving excessive movement. As for the sway bar VRADA stick your head under the car, he is asking if you have one otherwise you will have to get the link kit too.

Here is what is on mine:

If ive got those red bolts on the rear axle does that mean i have a rear sway bar stock?

When I upgrade my springs/shocks I'll be going for a VRX/KYB combo. Mainly to keep a level of factory comfort in the ride. Front sway bar will be done when/if I decide to go ahead with the ALK.

How noticable is the prodive? Do you ever get the feeling of slidding off line if/when you have had to break heavy whilst cornering? (I realise it not good driving practise but something to consider when many drivers (typically in front of you) brake whilst turning.)


If I were able to do it again, I think I will choose the VRX springs over the Whiteline's, maybe have them slightly reset, only slightly, I'm not a fan of 'dumped' cars. Although I'll be sticking with the Koni's, the adjustable knob is a cool gimmick :P (Well its more useful rather than gimmicky, but the setting is hardly changed)

Prodive is actually not noticeable, well I personally don't notice it. I've done a defensive training course with the current setup, the course involves practicing emergency braking techniques including high speed emergency braking whilst cornering. Well I didn't have issues at all doing the exercise, the car was quite controllable, though my friend known as ABS did most of the work.

If I were able to do it again, I think I will choose the VRX springs over the Whiteline's, maybe have them slightly reset, only slightly, I'm not a fan of 'dumped' cars. Although I'll be sticking with the Koni's, the adjustable knob is a cool gimmick :P (Well its more useful rather than gimmicky, but the setting is hardly changed)

Prodive is actually not noticeable, well I personally don't notice it. I've done a defensive training course with the current setup, the course involves practicing emergency braking techniques including high speed emergency braking whilst cornering. Well I didn't have issues at all doing the exercise, the car was quite controllable, though my friend known as ABS did most of the work.

lol. cool. Thanks TecoD.lol