what do people know about these kits, i have a mag where they put it on a ralliart, get it on the dyno standard it gets 132.9kws and 1046.8Nm of torque (the torque figure is a multiplication of the diff ratio) meaning the factor 180kws is right on the money.

then with the kit on they end up with 140.7kws through the front wheels

what do people know about these kits, i have a mag where they put it on a ralliart, get it on the dyno standard it gets 132.9kws and 1046.8Nm of torque (the torque figure is a multiplication of the diff ratio) meaning the factor 180kws is right on the money.

then with the kit on they end up with 140.7kws through the front wheels


haha howd u get over 1000nm of torque buddy ??

"haha howd u get over 1000nm of torque buddy ??"

Strapped on a couple of GM 6/71 blowers perhaps?,na,it would be tractive effort or like he said, a multiple of the diff ratio

Unless they are using speaker wire from the factory as earth wires,i HIGHLY doubt a "kit" (that you could put together yourself for a pittance i bet) could produce an extra 7 or so KW.

If in doubt,just grab a multi meter and check the voltages at your coils etc as this is the only part in the vehicle that will rely on correct voltage to put out decent spark etc and therefore potentially increase power.but you would also look at upgrading your power wires from the alternator etc as they are just as important as decent earths, if the power can get out and not in your going backwards and this will make sure your battery etc is getting full voltage and no drop.

Aslo remenber dyno`s are very "fudgable" and inconsistent

Steve

haha howd u get over 1000nm of torque buddy ??


haha, wait, read what i said. as i answered it before you asked:gtfo:

i can scan the thing if you want to read it and see the dyno proof. they say the ralliart was a good car for testing the kit as it put out such constant results on the dyno. i mean for a small cost it would be cool to try

they also said fuel economy was better about just over a 1L

http://sunau826.rsjp.net/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_inazma_hyper.html
http://sunau826.rsjp.net/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_earth.html

they were both used on the car

http://sunau826.rsjp.net/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_inazma_hyper.html
http://sunau826.rsjp.net/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_earth.html

they were both used on the car

Any idea how much the kits cost??

I've got the maganzine article in question at home (infact I'm sure I've scanned it and posted it on here before too) - if the kits aren't too much, I might be willing to see if my local performance workshop can recreate the same results on my car......

....maybe...

yeah i would be happy to try, i mean if there not to much it seems like good power gains.

I might be willing to see if my local performance workshop can recreate the same results on my car......
If they are a good dyno operator they should be able to ;)

:bowrofl:

never buy an earthing kit, make one yourself!!

seriously, if you've ever done a power lead for a car stereo, its the exact same principal!

yes, apparently there are slight advantages, but normally only if there is a problem with the standard gear itself.

i remember talking to a guy that tested one on his ralliart (could have been for that article) he did say that there was a reasonable gain, not only with power, but headlight brightness and the bass from the stereo too! :shock:

not sure if he was trying to sell me one, but he seemed rather impressed

it does sound like that same person. this car had the earthing kit which you could make your self, but the voltage stabliser thing http://sunau826.rsjp.net/english/english_html/pro_02/hot_inazma_hyper.html may be a little harder,

Doesn't Barry make these kits?

Doesn't Barry make these kits?
yep

ive got one waiting for me to become less lazy & install it

ill let you know when i do it :D

unless anyone in sa is bored & wanting a cash job :D

what sort of cost are they?

i think the earthing kits are cheap, but the stablizer thingo is a few 100, but still if it was all under 3-400 and your getting 7kws at the wheels its not to bad

http://search.ebay.com.au/search/search.dll?MfcISAPICommand=GetResult&ht=1&shortcut=0&from=R41&query=hot+earth&category0=

guys its just as easy to buy one off ebay, i got mine for 30 buck postage included but u can get it cheaper if u wait
still havnt put it on my car but ill tell u how it goes when i do!

well there seems to be a few people who have them, but no one with one installed!!

Hurry up!! :D

seriously, if you've ever done a power lead for a car stereo, its the exact same principal!
agreed, i made some out of 2g cable...

maybe it's the placebo effect, but the car actually feels like it runs better and has a crisper throttle response (my car is carby). my guess was poor earthing for the sparkplugs and/or coil

according to my multitester...
the voltage drop from the head to -ve bat terminal before good earthing : 0.3v
voltage drop after: 0.01v

can only assume similar figures for chassis to block, chassis to -ve terminal...

when bass note hits, the headlights dont dim as much, also the alternator is putting the full 14v into my battery (less than 0.2v between b+ on the alternator terminal and battery terminal), starter motor cranks over quicker, even power windows are faster as well (first gen owners will know that power windows are slow as!)

was worth the effort, i think the benefits will be more noticeable in an older car like mine... where the exitsing earthing points have been rusting for 20years and needed cleaning up as well... also i dont think it was mitsubishis intention to have amplifiers, etc in the car... the existing earth was only 8g and i had 4g running my amps. the amps are also liking the better chassis earth... they have a new level of... how you say... making the sub rattle things apart. lol

Sounds good i might uses some of my spare 2g amp wire and upgrade the alternator and
grounding cables and see how it goes.

ill get back soon with some feedback if it has improved anything.

can someone pls post a picture of where they attach them to on the engine

i know 1 end is to the - of battery what about the other end

thanks

a simple one, is lets say you have 4ga power running to one amp, what you do is run a piece of 4ga from bare metal in the engine bay to (-) terminal in the battery

or, i have 2ga going to the amps, so, i run a piece of 2ga from the (-) terminal of the battery to bare metal in the engine bay, helps pick up the current that you are dishing out.



i still got NFI how these "kits" are wired up, where they go etc....

but thats just a simple example

']yep

ive got one waiting for me to become less lazy & install it

ill let you know when i do it :D

unless anyone in sa is bored & wanting a cash job :D





its not hard to install it seafood. it'll only take 20mins max on all of them. the easiest is the one that will connect from ur radiator at one end and the other end is on ur alternator

can someone pls post a picture of where they attach them to on the engine

i know 1 end is to the - of battery what about the other end

thanks

i got the mag at home where they test in different places on a dyno, so will post some pic's for you if i remember

i made up two lengths, and put 1 length from battery to stocko chassis earth mounting, then the other piece from the chassis earth to the head of the motor. i also kept my old earth cable as well fo good measure cos i could... also that mounts near the starter motor through a bolt that jaycar dont ahve ring terminals for... but i'm earthing the motor and trans twice so it cant hurt.

what wouldbe the benefits of putting it anywhere else or moving them around? electricty always find the shortest root anyways. i'd like to see thiat mag that you got pete

hahaha... i said root

http://www.techieonthemove.com/autoauction/products/XB-572B/diagram.gif

thats some places where u could connect the negative wire, but just use commonsense and keep it away from moving and hot parts :bowrofl:

I suppose earthing kits would work on the grounds of reducing overall resistance in the car's various electrical systems, by lowering the resistance from the electrical ground to the negative terminal as a result of providing a lower-resistance electrical pathway, which will mean power is lost throughout the entire system (using the rule of Pl=I*I*R, where Pl=power lost, I=current in amps, R=resistance in ohms). Personally, I don't really expect too much or any gain in terms of horsepower or fuel economy (unless some existing earthing connection on something like the injectors was beginning to deterioriate, causing them not to operate as efficiently as they used to), but I'd expect some sort of improvement with the electrical systems of the car.

As for voltage stabilisers, I've heard that they're just basically a capacitor in a box, sized to neutralise voltage fluctuations as possible. Wouldn't mind buying something like the Sun Auto's v.stabiliser so I can take it apart and investigate its inner working to confirm this, though. But unless you're running stacks of added extras in your car that draw a fair amount of power (high-end sound systems, etc.), I'm not sure if the cost of some of them (i.e. $100) justifies their use in near-standard cars.