I own a 93 Mitsubishi Diamant Wagon. I changed the plugs/wires on my car about a week ago. Everything went smoothly, and my car had been running fine up untill this morning. I went outside to start it up, and it wouldn't start. My bf came out to help, and he was looking while I was trying to start it and noticed that a current was arcing, on the shortest plug wire, the one that does not attach to any of the spark plugs. (I don't know what this particular wire is called) We put the old wire on, and it started right up. That was about 3 hours ago. I just went out to start it again, and I am having the same problem. The old wire was on there, but the current was arcing, and it would not start. We tried putting the new wire back on, and it's doing the same thing. It is damp out...but I don't see how that could be the problem. Please help...I don't know a lot about cars, but it seems like a simple thing to me that can be fixed, I just don't know how.....:rant:

Where exactly is it arcing? It sounds like you might have a crack in your distributor cover or something, and moisture definitely makes this worse.

If it is the distributor cover, then you'll need a new one.

Cheers,
Martin

Thats ya coil lead.

Give the top of the distributer and coil a good clean, them spray them with dewatering fluid.
RP7, WD40 or any product that says penetrating or dewatering fluid on it.

If the arcing is at the distributer end of the wire and this doesnt fix it you will probably need a new distributer cap (not too expensive and easy to change).

Hope that helps and welcome to the club. :D

Well we figured out that it was in fact the humidity. We held a hair dryer to it for ten minutes and it started right up. Hopefully it will start this morning. The coil wire is new, as well as the other wires. When I went to start it yesturday morning, and it didn't start. We put the old wire in (Which had been in my house nice and dry) and it started right up. But after the old wire had been in there for a few hours it was giving me the same problem. So it was definately mosture that was giving me problems. I'm glad because I was about to go out and buy a new ignition coil. Keep your fingers crossed for me...hopefully she'll start this morning....

... with dewatering fluid...
Or Water Dispersant perhaps

Well...I had the same problem again when I tried to start it up this morning. But I am pretty sure that it is the connector on the ignition coil that is collecting moisture, not the wire. I used the hairdryer remedy again and at least got it running so I could get to work. I think it is supposed to be less humid today so hopefully she'll start up again later....

Well...I had the same problem again when I tried to start it up this morning. But I am pretty sure that it is the connector on the ignition coil that is collecting moisture, not the wire. I used the hairdryer remedy again and at least got it running so I could get to work. I think it is supposed to be less humid today so hopefully she'll start up again later....
Check the dizzy cap, could be a crack in it letting in moisture.

Well she started up this morning but I think it's still having some issues. I was parrelel parked, and when I turned the wheel all the way to get out, it stalled. I put it in park, started back up, and when I went back into drive she stalled again. It kept doing that until I had the wheel a little bit less cut. And it's not starting right up, it hesitates a little, and immediatly the RPM's go down to like less than 1000. Which it never did before. It was usually just above 1000. Don't forget now that I know next to nothing about cars, so I have no idea what the issue here is. I don't think this is a humidity issue but I dunno....

Hmmm....

Well both times that has happened (this morning, and last week) the car was warmed up.
It's just annoying because none of this started happening until I started working on my car myself. But I don't see how I couldn't have caused any of this....I've checked all my connections and they are all good. The plugs are all gapped correctly. I dunno. It does seem like a minor irritation, I'll get here running good eventually. Maybe I will adjust the choke, that might help. Thanks for the advice :)

So you think if I increase the idle...it will stop the stalling...? When its warmed up its idling at about 6 - 700 rpms.....

Ok I might try that. It's weird when I start it up, I watch the RPMs and the needle goes up and down for a min, going from about 600 down to almost 0, then back up, and back down again, then finally settling at about 700, when it's warm. When it's cold it does the same thing, but it will settle at about 1000, then go down to 700 when it gets warm. Also, when I put it into gear, the RPMs go down again to almost nothing, until I get movin, and then they'll go back up. Sometimes it does go down to nothing, and I stall, like if I cut the wheel all the way. It all seems very odd to me!!!

Ummmm....
How do i change the idle...? lol

Well she started up this morning but I think it's still having some issues. I was parrelel parked, and when I turned the wheel all the way to get out, it stalled. I put it in park, started back up, and when I went back into drive she stalled again. It kept doing that until I had the wheel a little bit less cut.

Just a little tip, its not good for power steering pumps to have you wheels on full lock. Its much better to turn them till you hit full low then turn the wheel back a cm or so, takes a lot of strain off the pump. This is what could be sucking a whole heap of power from the engine at idle, contributing to the stalling problem.

Just a little tip, its not good for power steering pumps to have you wheels on full lock. Its much better to turn them till you hit full low then turn the wheel back a cm or so, takes a lot of strain off the pump. This is what could be sucking a whole heap of power from the engine at idle, contributing to the stalling problem.

Thats true, if you have the window down and you got a good ear you'll hear the power steering pump strain under full lock, which will disappear when the steering will is move back a couple of cm's.

Apparently the idling on the TR/TS is a different system (and better) than that of the TP etc like I have, but I was looking through a Gregory's service manual for a TR that a mate has. There are two adjustments for idling, one is factory set and shouldn't have been changed although it probably has, and the other is the return of the throttle cable (you know, where you can move the lever to rev the engine, can't think of what its called). I hope someone on here as a Gregory's etc. service manual for a TR/TS so they can look up how to adjust the other screw...

The other screw is got to do with the fast idle, which rev's the engine higher when cold. The throttle cable adjustment is to adjust the idle when the engine is warmed properly.

There is also details of why your revs may be so erratic, have you checked your spark plugs? Are they the correct type (TR/TS use a different plug to the TN/TP), is the gap correct? And from reading this thread earlier you changed your spark plug leads. Did you put them in the correct order?!!!!

Yes, the wires are definately in the correct order. All connections are good and they are the right plugs, per the owners manual. Supposedly they were pre-gapped, but I am gonna check em.

I understand what you're saying about the power steering, but you've got me confused about the different types of models. My car's a 93 Diamante, and the only two models we have here in the US are the ES and the LS. I beleive my car is the ES.


There are two adjustments for idling, one is factory set and shouldn't have been changed although it probably has, and the other is the return of the throttle cable (you know, where you can move the lever to rev the engine, can't think of what its called).

I actually don't know where that lever is, or how to adjust the idle like u said... :redface:
I'm sorry I don't know a lot about cars but I am trying to learn.....

Hey thanks that helps me a lot!! I'm going to go outside and see if I can figure out what you're talking about. Should I warm up the car before I adjust the idle? Should I have the car running while I do it?

Do not adjust the base idle screw. See the black cap on top of the throttle body remove it with your fingers or a small screw driver. Adjust the idle speed from there. Anti clockwise will bring the revs up clockwise will bring them down. If you are experiencing surging check all vacume hoses etc incase cracked or loose.

Regards

Hey I did it! It was incredibly simple, I saw exactly what you were talkin about :) I raised the idle up to about 800 and it seems to have solved my problem :) I shut it off, and started it again and the needle didn't do that crazy thing I was talking about goin up and down and stuff. Thanks everyone! Hopefully that fixed it!

Everyone has been a BIG help :) I know a LOT more than I did a month ago.....and if it weren't for u dirtyhands....I wouldn't even know about this forum ;)

Hey Jen sure it wasnt me that sent you the link check your pm's dated April 11. Anyway glad we could all assist with your issues.

Regards

I'm sorry I just checked an I realized that u both sent me a link to this forum so thanks guys :) sorry bout the misunderstanding :nuts:

Ok so my car is still not starting in the rain. Ever since I did that tune up, I've had to drag my hair dryer out everytime it's been raining and dry off the ignition coil before I can start it. Very frustrating. Once I get it going it's fine...no more stalling or anything. And when it's not raining it starts right up and is idling fine. Should I replace the coil? The wire is brand new...and when it's raining it doesnt seem to matter what wire is on, (The new one or the old one.) I'm out of ideas except the ignition coil....

Hiyu there, i just thought i'd ask Jenny a quick question

You stated at the beginning of your thread that you have (or your b\f) a current arcing from the lead that runs from the coil to the dizzy....can you tell us exactly where the arcing is starting from, and where it is travelling to? - a bit of thought from us on this and we may be able to come up with a fix for it without replacing anything.......also if you can provide a pic of your setup it may help.....(ie, if it is arcing at the coil, post up a pic of your coil....we might be able to spot something you missed, not meaning to call you stupid or anything, but sometimes the smallest things can go overlooked!)


Well...I had the same problem again when I tried to start it up this morning. But I am pretty sure that it is the connector on the ignition coil that is collecting moisture, not the wire. I used the hairdryer remedy again and at least got it running so I could get to work. I think it is supposed to be less humid today so hopefully she'll start up again later....


Have you tried completely covering the connectors with electrical tape, and i mean completely covering it?, it may, just may, help prevent the arcing, at least as a troubleshooting method?

Hey Jenny if its arcing at a lead again it could be a lead. What brand did you use. The genuine items are good enough if you can source them. If its archin at the coil there may be a small hairline crack in it. Also did you replace your distributor cap. Take a photo of what your drying so we can verify which part it may be.

Even though you replaced the leads there are some brands out on the market that can be dodgy. It happened to me once and my mechanic. Even though its new doesnt mean it will be 100% ok.

Regards

Hi everyone

I will try to get a pic of my coil up today

It is arcing on the wire, near the coil. it starts like near the end of the wire, and travels down the outside of the wire, about 6 or 7 mm. ??

As soon as I dry it off for like 2 mins it's fine...

Stupid question for you. Since replacing the leads have your removed the one from the coil at all? If so did you pull it from the lead or the insulator on each end... If you pulled it from the lead and not the insulator on the end it may be cut internally as well or just making contact.
If your going to start replacing stuff do it in this order. Will be cheaper this way.
Lead
Distributor Cap
Coil.

Regards

I don't think it is the wire because it is doing the same thing with the original wire, and the new one. The distributor cap is fine...just replaced that. And yeah...I always pull it out by the insulator, not the wire itself...

I will take a pic today of where I am blow drying....

This may be a dumb question, but what does a 'distributor cap' do?

This may be a dumb question, but what does a 'distributor cap' do?

A distributor cap.......okay....well, the coil sends the electrical current to the distributor cap, which in turn "distributes" this current to each lead coming out of the cap 1 at a time, there is a rotor under the cap which allows it to only provide current to one lead at a time, which in turn sends that current, or spark, to the spark plug, which in turn spark, and in turn causes the fuel to explode, which in turn, pushes the piston down, which in turn, delivers power to your tranny/gearbox, which in turn delivers power to your diff, which in turn delivers power to your axle/cv joints, which in turn provides a rotational force to your wheels, which in turn, rorate, which in turn, makes you car move, provided that those wheels are actually in contact with the road......get the idea?

Ah!

Thanks for the explanation.

(Still abit lost, but who cares) :D