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redKR
14-11-2003, 12:28 AM
Hey Guys,

The pads on the front of my car are just about gone, you can REALLY feel the effort to slow the car down, Im probly going to change them myself just for the hell of it as im curious to see how its done and as my uni exams are over, ive got the time!!

The way I understand it you remove the pin from the bottom of the calliper and pivot the cover upward to reveal the pads which are then just sitting there.... Once removed you push the piston all the way in and seat the new pads and shims.... slide the cover back etc...

BUT, what do you need to do with the fluid, ie bleeding or removing some of it? and am I forgetting anything???

What pads should I get and how much? Your advice as always is much appreciated..

Callum
KR Verdada - NO ABS

Meph
14-11-2003, 12:44 AM
pads are between around 30 to 130, depending what u get and where. I have Ferodos, but ppl LOVE bendix.

You have the method down, but a few things. You are going to need a G clamp to push the piston back into the caliper, and when you do this you are shoving more brake fluid back into the reservior, so youll need to remove some fluid from there. You can do this by bleeding the brakes a bit, but i just scooped it out with a coke cottle cap lol.

Also you may wanna get some 'disc brake quiet' grease. You want to apply this to the back of the pads, between the pads and the shims. Some ppl say you dont need to do this, but meh, better safe then sorry.

WhiteDevil
14-11-2003, 05:14 AM
As what Meph discribed, best way is not to bleed the fluid but just scop it out from the reservior, else you'll make a mess with brake fluid dripping down and splashing everywhere. If you get any brake fluid on your paint, REMOVE ASAP, it will eat away the paint.

Also, if you have a history of squeaky brakes, it may be worth while to give the front facing edges of the new pads a little filing, don't take too much material away, the idea is to let it contact on a bigger surface rather than right on the corner. This method has stopped squeak on my magna GLX.

not sure if you're doing the rear pads as well, but just let you know, 1st Gen's handbrake uses the calipers still and in order to push the pistons back in, it's not just a matter of G-clap, you have to twist it back in, just like a Screw... good luck... don't make too much of a mess. haha. oh try not to breath too much of the dust, unhealthy.


Cheers.

petemal2000
14-11-2003, 06:35 AM
whatever you do dont use silverline pads!!!!

i got a set because my bendix ultimates had had it and i didnt have the money at the time for the new ones and they leave brake dust everywhere! every time i drive it i have to clean my alloys cause they turn black! only got them to keep me going till i can afford dba rotors + new bendix ultimates.

One thing to be careful of is that when you push in the piston on the caliper make sure you push it in squarely otherwise you can damage the seal arround the edged and it can lead to problems.
other than that shouldnt take you any more than an hour to do, my last set took 45min only because i had to try and find something to undo the wheelnuts with cause my tire iron wont fit in the holes in my alloys :x

if ya want decent pads get bendix ultimates, they are fairly expensive (last quote i had was $140 set, but they last heaps longer than standard ones

WhiteDevil
14-11-2003, 06:46 AM
how much would a set of dba rotors worth? would it be alright to just get the front rotors changed to dba? and leave the back? maybe cheaper that way, since 80% braking is done in the front.

what do you think?

LiquidHotMagna
14-11-2003, 06:59 AM
I have the dbs slotted rotors on the front only and everything works fine. Have had them for 8 or 9 months now without a problem.

petemal2000
14-11-2003, 07:12 AM
i got a quote for dba gold slotted and crossdrilled rotors and they wanted ~180 each for em, thats the only price i have on them, dont know if ya can get em cheaper.

just putting them on the front would be fine, thats what i will do with mine eventually when i get the money to do it.

probably not worth paying someone to do it though, its fairly simple to do.

BOosted' BOoya
14-11-2003, 07:25 AM
i got a quote for dba gold slotted and crossdrilled rotors and they wanted ~180 each for em, thats the only price i have on them, dont know if ya can get em cheaper.

just putting them on the front would be fine, thats what i will do with mine eventually when i get the money to do it.

probably not worth paying someone to do it though, its fairly simple to do.

ive got the gold slotted/xdrilled right round, and they work a gem :D as long as you warm up your disks before heavy braking, and they wont crack :doubt:

prices must of gone up since last time, cos i got mine for 140 a corner.
but they look pretty :D too bad they dont make em larger then the standard sizes :(

Ben

Redav
14-11-2003, 09:16 AM
since 80% braking is done in the front

Minor detail but apparently brake bias is 65 / 35.

Madmagna
14-11-2003, 11:15 AM
anyone in Melbourne is more than welcome to take advantage of my trade account for these rotors.
I do not like the cross drilled ones myself but they are avail.

LiquidHotMagna
14-11-2003, 11:16 AM
I will be taking advantage of more than that!!!!! :roll:

WhiteDevil
14-11-2003, 11:29 AM
madmagna, i'm in melbourne, what sort of deals can you do for front rotors? and what about the whole set, front + back? any deals that include clipers as well?

redKR
15-11-2003, 04:21 PM
Thanks gents,

I'll probly be doing it next week so ill let you all know how I go....
Sounds like im going for the Bendix pads, ultimates if I can afford them!

Anyhoo thanks again
Callum