Hey Guys,

Does any one how to install Air/Fuel Ratio gauge.

I have a Wiring diagram the only thing is the oxygen sensor

1. Is our oxygen sensor heated or non-heated

2. if it is heated is it 3 wire or 4 wire

3 if it is non-heated is it 1 wire or 2 wire

thanks

Tristian

P.S. can someone install this for me for the right price

dont install that. its to ricey.



















give it to me :P lol

I'll leave power and earth to your imagination, but make sure whatever power you choose doesn't become live until you've turned the ignition. You could use the same power wire as your stereo or patch into the ciggy lighter circuit.

The tricky bit is the o2 sensor signal wire. If you pull the carpet back in the passenger footwell on the side nearest the centre console you'll see a bunch of metal plates. Unscrew and remove the one closest to the firewall.

If you did around a bit you'll find a small flat plug with four wires going in to it. From memory they are coloured gray, black, white and something else.. red?. I was going to check this morning but forgot to bring a screwdriver down with me. The wire you want is pin 1. See the attachments to find out which one that is, it's one of the outside wires and I think it's the gray one. If you're still confused and have a multimeter, you can backprobe the plug to find the signal wire. You're looking for a wire that gives you a voltage somewhere between 0-1V and that hovers around 500-600mV at idle and under light load.

Splice into that wire and you're away.

In answer to your question yes many people will install it for the right price but why pay???

The signal wire is green and white (from memory its the 2nd wire in the plug) its white with a green trace... you can call meif you have any questions at work on 03 5941 6366 ask for matt.

I have fitted these gauges to my car and three others myself so I'm a pretty good authority on the topic.

Take it easy.

Matt.

thanks for the replies guys i will try this tommorrow.

hopefully an amature can do it lol jk

im sure ill be fine.

has anyone got pics? just thought i would ask

Went to do it today but cbf plus i couldn't find my multi meter :redface:

I will attemt tommorrow

However thanks to Matt i found all the wires i need

quick question though The sensor wire is quite thick. approx .4 cm. How would you connect a wire to it. I got some of those clips that splice the wire for you but its too thick

Went to do it today but cbf plus i couldn't find my multi meter :redface:

I will attemt tommorrow

However thanks to Matt i found all the wires i need

quick question though The sensor wire is quite thick. approx .4 cm. How would you connect a wire to it. I got some of those clips that splice the wire for you but its too thick

YOUR SENSOR WIRE IS 4 CM THICK???? Do you mean 4 MM ???, i hope so!!

YOUR SENSOR WIRE IS 4 CM THICK???? Do you mean 4 MM ???, i hope so!!

it wouldnt need to be thicker then 12ga surely?

I'll leave power and earth to your imagination, but make sure whatever power you choose doesn't become live until you've turned the ignition. You could use the same power wire as your stereo or patch into the ciggy lighter circuit.

The tricky bit is the o2 sensor signal wire. If you pull the carpet back in the passenger footwell on the side nearest the centre console you'll see a bunch of metal plates. Unscrew and remove the one closest to the firewall.

If you did around a bit you'll find a small flat plug with four wires going in to it. From memory they are coloured gray, black, white and something else.. red?. I was going to check this morning but forgot to bring a screwdriver down with me. The wire you want is pin 1. See the attachments to find out which one that is, it's one of the outside wires and I think it's the gray one. If you're still confused and have a multimeter, you can backprobe the plug to find the signal wire. You're looking for a wire that gives you a voltage somewhere between 0-1V and that hovers around 500-600mV at idle and under light load.

Splice into that wire and you're away.


Dude what about 2nd gens? I've got an autometer a/f gauge here i was going to install on the 1st gen after i worked it a bit but then i crashed it and have been toying with the idea to put it on my 3l 2nd but i really suck at electronics (and using a voltmeter) however if i know what settings etc to put it on i'm sure i could find my way around it and installing it would be a pinch, i guess its just the volt meter... they're so simple im told i just don't get it.. and i've lost my users manual haha

YOUR SENSOR WIRE IS 4 CM THICK???? Do you mean 4 MM ???, i hope so!!



he said .4cm

I'll leave power and earth to your imagination ....

I thought that looked familiar.. (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=491534&postcount=12) :P

Dude what about 2nd gens? I've got an autometer a/f gauge here i was going to install on the 1st gen after i worked it a bit but then i crashed it and have been toying with the idea to put it on my 3l 2nd but i really suck at electronics (and using a voltmeter) however if i know what settings etc to put it on i'm sure i could find my way around it and installing it would be a pinch, i guess its just the volt meter... they're so simple im told i just don't get it.. and i've lost my users manual haha

Don't know where the sensor wires come into the car on the 2nd gens but it's probably in the same place. And is probably also a flat 4 wire plug.

You want to set your multimeter to a setting where it will read at least 1V. What you want to find is a line that shows you a voltage that fluctuates between 400mV-600mV while the car is idling. If you floor it, that number should increase to 800mV or more. You do this by attaching the black lead from your multimeter to any earthed part of the car (most bolts or metal brackets should be earthed) and shove the pointy bit of the red lead into the back of the plug where the wires go, testing each wire in turn. This is called back-probing.

my multimeter gives me no readings from any wires on my ecu yet will read the voltage of my 12v screwdriver fine.. argh!

There's not much room in some of those plugs... make sure your probe is touching metal. If you're really game you can strip off a bit of the insulation, then tape it back up again afterwards, but you'll want to have narrowed it down to just a couple of wires before you start lol

If you can look under your car, find the o2 sensor and see if you can work out roughly where its wiring loom goes back into the car - then try and find it coming up through the floor from the inside.

Yeah, talk about a tight fit! i had the right wire from square one and that wasn't the problem, i had to wedge that mother in there to find it.. the gauge says i'm running lean whilst idling with all the acc on.. oh well, its always a touch rich when giving it some stick as well. hmm.. now where to put it... :cool:

What does it say your AFR is at idle? Or doesn't the gauge have numbers?

I thought that looked familiar.. (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=491534&postcount=12) :P

lol i stole it from ya but i couldn't find the post but i had it in word document so by no means think i'm taking cred for ya or nuttin lol

Hey guys,

Yer i am going to install this 2moro. I have found all the wires. Does anyone know specific place i can get a pillar gauge holder and for how much. I think this should be rather easy... I love the fact that i can attemt something like this as normally i would have left it for the pros or someone else willing to lend a hand...

:cool:

sorry to bring back the dead thread but i just installed one of these in my car (3rd gen TF) and it is always on lean. can someone please tell me where they connected the 02 senser wire and the wire for the headlights. any help would be great thanks ya'll

Does the needle move at all? Chances are you hooked into the wrong wire on the O2 sensor harness. I'll take a piccy of the O2 sensor harness when I get home tonight for ya.

What do you mean about the headlight wire? Does yours need to turn on a back-light when the headlights are on?

Does the needle move at all? Chances are you hooked into the wrong wire on the O2 sensor harness. I'll take a piccy of the O2 sensor harness when I get home tonight for ya.

What do you mean about the headlight wire? Does yours need to turn on a back-light when the headlights are on?

i wired up the headlight wire to the light in the ciggy tray (seems to work fine by lighting it up and stuff) but the grey (02 sensor) wire i tried on both the 2nd white and the grey and both times the needle didn't move (grey it was on leanest and white was stuck on richest) so if u could shoot up a pic of u'r harness i would appreciate that heaps.

this gauge is one of the ones with the smoked face so it looks black when off and lights up when on (yeah i know its the riceness)

hey man any luck with that pic as i tried all different stuff today and still no go :(

hey man any luck with that pic as i tried all different stuff today and still no go :(

Sorry, dude, only got 3 hours sleep last night as had to start work at 2am.. the whole day went down hill from there. I will get something as soon as I can. I'm a bit scatter brained right now, but if I remember I'll snap it first thing in the morning and post up from the office.

On the Lancer, I just tapped into Pin76 going into the ECU. Its a white wire in harness connector 3 of 4.

Oh, and at idle my guage jumps around from lean to rich to lean etc. My air/fuel ratio is screwed lol Give me a few weeks and ill fix her up. Dyno time baby :badgrin:

So I did take a photo of the connector, but didn't take the electrical tape off the wiring so the pic doesn't show which wire I hooked in to :nuts: damn I'm thick.. After looking at the wiring diagram in the manual again I'm starting to think my earlier post about it being one of the edge wires was wrong so this afternoon I'll whip the tape off and have another go with the camera. Promise :shifty:


Oh, and at idle my guage jumps around from lean to rich to lean etc.

That sounds about right.. though it depends on how wild the fluctuations are. In closed loop mode the car will make many micro-adjustments every second as it tries to hit its target AFR (usually 14.7:1 for petrol).. adding fuel until it goes richer than stoich then pulling it out until it goes leaner then adding fuel and so on.

Ok, a picture of the oxygen sensor plug. The sensor wire is the black wire on the left of the big picture.. more visible in the close-up.

It should be obvious from the pictures why I don't work in the electronics industry :bowrofl:

you sir are a king amongst men. i had tried both the center ones and neither worked (obviously) i shall fix tomorrow morning

once again thanks a ton and i'll buy u a present if i ever meet u :D

Sorry to awaken a dead thread, but, where can i get my hands on one of these gauges?

autobarn or sumwhere like that

what about a digital read out one. have you seen them around?

If its just going to read the standard o2 sensor, then it cant read a number.

Can I ask what the point of one of these gauges is?

what about a digital read out one. have you seen them around?

Yes, I built one from the kit that Jaycar sells. Very handy.


If its just going to read the standard o2 sensor, then it cant read a number.

Can I ask what the point of one of these gauges is?

That's like saying: if it's just going to read a wide band o2 sensor then it can't read a number.

Any sensor, whether wide or narrow band, just outputs a voltage. You already know this. It's up to the software to interpret that voltage into a number.

A gauge on the standard narrow band sensor is going to be inaccurate at anything that's very far from stoichiometric, granted, and even that accuracy comes down to how well you calibrate it to start with.. but it's still more useful than you're giving it credit for.

But for a car with a std ECU which isn't programmable?

Why not just read the voltage, calculate lambda and figure out of its working. A gauge in there 100% of the time seems useless?

You would know if ur car is doing something rong if ur running too rich. Thats y i want to install one.

But the gauge will read rich when you put more than 20-30% throttle.

But if ur at the lights on idle and ur reading extremely rich.... engines warm.... revs are low... somethings rong...

But the gauge will read rich when you put more than 20-30% throttle.

At least you can see if closed loop is on the money. Also handy to tell when the ECU switches modes, for academic reasons ;)

Of course my car has an aftermarket ECU so the gauge has a use for me. Actually I've been considering cutting over to a wide band sensor and gauge. Perhaps something from here (http://wbo2.com/). I know you like the zeitronix (http://www.zeitronix.com/) ones don't you, turbo_charade?

But if ur at the lights on idle and ur reading extremely rich.... engines warm.... revs are low... somethings rong...

lol mine bounces from rich to lean when idleing lol

At least you can see if closed loop is on the money. Also handy to tell when the ECU switches modes, for academic reasons ;)

Of course my car has an aftermarket ECU so the gauge has a use for me. Actually I've been considering cutting over to a wide band sensor and gauge. Perhaps something from here (http://wbo2.com/). I know you like the zeitronix (http://www.zeitronix.com/) ones don't you, turbo_charade?
Yeah you can tune for cruise and light load with a narrowband, but that would be the only reason to get a gauge.

I have a zeitronix unit which I tune customers cars with, its a great piece of kit!


will3690
But if ur at the lights on idle and ur reading extremely rich.... engines warm.... revs are low... somethings rong..

You dont need a AFR gauge to notice that :P The motor will be in closed loop at idle so cycling from lean to rich.

A vacuum gauge is more useful for diagnostics, but you dont see them too much now days.

hey quick question kids, how many wires are involded in installing one of these? lumination (pos/neg) and just the one splicing into the signal wire or what???

cheers,
tom

hey quick question kids, how many wires are involded in installing one of these? lumination (pos/neg) and just the one splicing into the signal wire or what???

cheers,
tom

4 for mine (i've got a whole set which i use for tuneing other ppl's cars)

hey quick question kids, how many wires are involded in installing one of these? lumination (pos/neg) and just the one splicing into the signal wire or what???

cheers,
tom

Three wires on mine. Power, earth, and signal. Mine uses a light dependent resistor to control illumination.

ok, so lets say i went out and bought a auto meter a/f gauge, how many wires can i expect?

ok, so lets say i went out and bought a auto meter a/f gauge, how many wires can i expect?

3 minimum - power, earth, signal.

I suppose it's possible to have an illumination wire to connect to the headlight circuit..

3 minimum - power, earth, signal.

I suppose it's possible to have an illumination wire to connect to the headlight circuit..

correct sir

Yeah just pinch if from your dash/cluster circuit, that way its all dimming and flashy :D

hey guys, bringing back an old thread again... but which wire is it? the thick black one or the little black one in the harness??? if you know pls reply asap, as my cars in peices and i need to know cheers,
tom

hey guys, bringing back an old thread again... but which wire is it? the thick black one or the little black one in the harness as per cthulu pic a few pages back, it wont let me up load it into my post for some reason, but is it the thick one on his index finger in the first pic, or the little one in the harness???? if you know pls reply asap, as my cars in peices and i need to know cheers,
tom

hahaaa ok its all good, im guessing because its a non heated type censor it takes a minute or two to get working and start giving a readout, but shes all good now, btw, its an auto meter sports-comp one, with the leds that light up red, green and yellow, its pretty cool haha