Hey ppls, i'm getting a noise coming from my left hand front tyre when I turn right. It sounds something like metal to metal, and it sounds like it's a rotation thing, i.e. it's not constant. I initially thought it could have been the brakes, but we inspected it, and it's visually ok. Checked both left and right front, and nothing visual could be seen. I just got new DBA rotors, and my pads are at about 3mm left, so plenty there. My brakes do squeal a bit under light braking. So anyway, any thoughts on what it could be?

cv joints.

mmmm, I thought it was too, but cv joints sound like they go "clug, clug, clug" , this is more like "tssk, tssk, tssk"

ummm you say just got new disks, pads have 3mm left? i assume from this you put these disks with your old pads?
The CV joint will either clunk inder load on lock or will grind for lack of better way of putting it while on overrun, ie not under load or de accelerating.
Could be a wear clip on the pads or a squeaky pad. could also be a squeaky wheel bearing.

if its a tst noise id check your wear clips on the pads. only thing is though that shouldnt be effected by turning, only braking. have a look at your cv boots and check if they are intact/full of grease. other than that try turning it around in a culdesac. when you get the noise at full hook, stop dead. get out and have a look under /all around the wheel and assembly and see if you can see anything scraping or touching that doesnt look like it should.

mmmm, I thought it was too, but cv joints sound like they go "clug, clug, clug".....

Shit. That's exactly the sound I get from the front right when turning right.
(I was wondering what that was)
It's pretty faint for now so they're probably not so bad.
How bad is it to leave them? and what are CV joints going to cost me?

-Dan

Speaking from experience (two months ago).

I had this metal tsk tsk together with a high pitched howling sound from
the rear left which goes up and down in frequency with the vehicle speed.
It turns out that it was the rear pad low level warning clips (terminology?)

The next day I started getting clunk/clug sound from the right front when
turning left and also a metalic tsk tsk sound only at 55-60km/hr together
with the high pitched sound on the left front. This turns out to be CV joint
dying for the right sound and bearing dying on the left. So spent another
$700 at adelaide CV joint (McIntyre Rd) to replace both drive shafts and
the left wheel bearings.

So you sound could be bearings as well.

and if its a more plasticky sound then its ur tyre hitting the inner gaurd lining :)

and if its a more plasticky sound then its ur tyre hitting the inner gaurd lining :)

....ok


i think both my wheel bearings are stuffed dunno bought the Cv joints ive just hit the 105000km mark there is a noise i can here when im driving slow but im not sure if thats the bearings or cv joints.

Anyway what does it cost to replace both wheel bearings ?

is that a sarcastic "ok" widow???

cos i have seen a few magnas hitting the plastic gaurd lining

is that a sarcastic "ok" widow???

cos i have seen a few magnas hitting the plastic gaurd lining

sarcastic ? by no means at all i was merely agreeing with your comment *caugh* *caugh*

tosspot

tosspot

Great if i knew what that was i would be happy.

4PLEAZN you sentance fragment :lol: , Oh i mean 4PLEAZN why do you use sentance fragments ? people cannot understand it.

what the **** is a sentance fragment? nerd!!!! 8)

Grecy - I've been told that cv joints you don't need to worry about until they start making that sound when u're going straight, otherwise start saving up if they're starting to make a sound while your turning. They cost, I think from memory, around 150 each for reconditioned, maybe more.

Replacing wheel bearings are the costly jobs. Not too sure how much it is for a magna, but for my old mazda 626, just on one side it cost somewhere around 200.

vlad - did that metallic tsk tsk sound that u've heard, happen when your turning? or when your driving normally? I see that u've stated when your driving at 55-60km/h so that probably means you'd be driving straight. That would also mean the sound is audible enough to be heard past your engine, other cars, etc. The sound I hear only happens on turns, and is not that audible, very discreet, you'd have to have your window down, or be outside the car to hear it. I'm hoping it's not the wheel bearings(!!)

I've checked underneath the car.. well, actually, I forgot to mention, that when we went to check over the discs, we did a few more tests. We put the car up on stands, and started the car. We put the car on drive, and let the discs rotate. We turned the wheel left, right, nothing, no noise. So, it could only happen at load, which is harder to try to figure out what it is.

MAGWGN - I've recently replaced my cv boots, and power steering boots for rego, so my boots are fine.

Sorry guys if i'm not all in it, i'm in study mode, and I've got all these things in my mind, plus my car, so I may leave things out

I'll be doing the calder sac test as soon as I finish my exam on wednesday, and i'll see if I can find it.

I'll also check the break wear clips and see if it is, but it seems odd if it did just happen on turning.

Madmagna - Yes, I put the old pads with the new discs. Jax tyres said there wasn't a problem with doing that, thought I'd rather have put in new pads at the time, it was expensive to replace both front disc rotors.

what the F*** is a sentance fragment? nerd!!!! 8)

It is what you learn in 1st grade , now can we please get back to talking about wheel bearings and cv joints please. If its ok by you ?

Grecy - I've been told that cv joints you don't need to worry about until they start making that sound when u're going straight, otherwise start saving up if they're starting to make a sound while your turning. They cost, I think from memory, around 150 each for reconditioned, maybe more.

Replacing wheel bearings are the costly jobs. Not too sure how much it is for a magna, but for my old mazda 626, just on one side it cost somewhere around 200.

vlad - did that metallic tsk tsk sound that u've heard, happen when your turning? or when your driving normally? I see that u've stated when your driving at 55-60km/h so that probably means you'd be driving straight. That would also mean the sound is audible enough to be heard past your engine, other cars, etc. The sound I hear only happens on turns, and is not that audible, very discreet, you'd have to have your window down, or be outside the car to hear it. I'm hoping it's not the wheel bearings(!!)

I've checked underneath the car.. well, actually, I forgot to mention, that when we went to check over the discs, we did a few more tests. We put the car up on stands, and started the car. We put the car on drive, and let the discs rotate. We turned the wheel left, right, nothing, no noise. So, it could only happen at load, which is harder to try to figure out what it is.

MAGWGN - I've recently replaced my cv boots, and power steering boots for rego, so my boots are fine.

Sorry guys if i'm not all in it, i'm in study mode, and I've got all these things in my mind, plus my car, so I may leave things out

I'll be doing the calder sac test as soon as I finish my exam on wednesday, and i'll see if I can find it.

I'll also check the break wear clips and see if it is, but it seems odd if it did just happen on turning.

Madmagna - Yes, I put the old pads with the new discs. Jax tyres said there wasn't a problem with doing that, thought I'd rather have put in new pads at the time, it was expensive to replace both front disc rotors.

Yep. The tsk tsk that happens between 55 and 60 is going straight, turning
accelarating, deccelerating etc etc. Jack you car up and grab the left wheel
and see if there is any play (movement). If there is then its the bearings.
Bearings are funny things. No one car's beearings makes noise the same
way when it dies. If its only doing it on turns then it could be the begining
of the end :)

First of all you should NEVER put in old pads with new disks. The old pads have worn into the shape of the old rotor and are now wearing your new rotor oddly and it will not get a chance to bed in.
I have been a mechanic for years, if you cv joint was gone you would have a clack sound on full lock or the wymptoms I mentioned in my last post which I can not be bothered copying. Mostly when warmed up.
The Volvo and Subaru used to have a similar problem, a squek ot low speed both straight and turning, a pad clean and anti squeal fixed this most of the time.
if it does it at walking speed get someone to roll the car and follow it.
If again it is at lower speeds again I would say do not waste your money on CV joints at this stage. FYI I can get a shaft, new outer, reco inner now for $157.00 each.
Wheel bearings again usually make noises when warm more than cold. They have to be pressed in and out so this is where it can get exxy.