Before you all start on me.. I did do a search on this and checked my service book!

I'm not worried about this, but interested to know (as I've never had a car with this light)....

How long should your engine light in the dash stay on for after starting the car?

Mine stays on for about 5 seconds after all the other lights are off.... is there a problem or is this normal? It hasn't always stayed on this long.. it's slowly gotten longer and longer. Car is due for 120k service in about 8k.

Sounds about right, on startup my car revs to 2000rpm then slowly(a few seconds) drops to ~800 and the light goes off.
May also be dependant on how warm the engine is before starting.....?

I have owned several Mitsubishis and normally the manual books say:

Turn the key to ON position, wait until the "Check Engine" light is off, then start the car

Haven't checked my TL's manual book, but I recommend to do the same thing with your car. When the CE light is on the ECU does all the diagnosis (whether AFS, TPS etc works well), as well as preparing the car for start up (measuring the outside temperature, engine temperature, pumping the fuel etc).

There is an old saying that "You will never have any trouble on the road with Mitsubishi, because if there is something wrong with it you wouldn't start the car anyway"

Back to topic, I am not sure why your car's CE lights longer than before (meaning the car performs diagnosis longer thanbefore). Could it be the winter approaching? My TL, being LPG, creates ticking sound (fuel pump) when I turn the key to ON. How long the fuel pump ticks actually also depends on the weather. So it could be the approaching winter makes my CE light lights longer.

I have owned several Mitsubishis and normally the manual books say:

Turn the key to ON position, wait until the "Check Engine" light is off, then start the car

Haven't checked my TL's manual book, but I recommend to do the same thing with your car. When the CE light is on the ECU does all the diagnosis (whether AFS, TPS etc works well), as well as preparing the car for start up (measuring the outside temperature, engine temperature, pumping the fuel etc).

There is an old saying that "You will never have any trouble on the road with Mitsubishi, because if there is something wrong with it you wouldn't start the car anyway"

Back to topic, I am not sure why your car's CE lights longer than before (meaning the car performs diagnosis longer thanbefore). Could it be the winter approaching? My TL, being LPG, creates ticking sound (fuel pump) when I turn the key to ON. How long the fuel pump ticks actually also depends on the weather. So it could be the approaching winter makes my CE light lights longer.

Good Point... I don't have the manual so can't read it lol and I NEVER wait to start my car... I just start and go.

Will try that in about an hour when I go out and let you know.

5s for Engine light to go out is normal... only when it never goes out are you in trouble.
Or if it comes on again when you're driving.


Never known of anyone that waits for it to go out before cranking the engine.

Not on a petrol anyway. Most diesels have a pre-heater which warms the cylinders
and only on those I'd wait till the HEAT/WAIT light goes out before cranking.
But on modern diesels they usually only take 5-10s from cold.

Yeah what happens when you start your car it goes through a check thingo.. if the light goes out everything is good and if it dont there is a problem..

So yours is okay.. its Normal..:)

Strange you didn't find anything with a search, it's been asked a few times now. Yes all is normal :).

Well... I've done it both ways.. waiting and not waiting.... no difference either way... same start same idle.

I'll start worrying when the light doesn't go out!

hmm... lemmee see...

we've got the oil can light for when there's no oil pressure

got the petrol light when there's no petrol

brakes light when you've got no brake pads left

so... if ENGINE light goes on, has your engine fallen out??! :badgrin:


Bit curious exactly what that light does these days. In the old days the 'engine'
light was a telltale for the alternator/generator... if it wasn't charging, light comes on.

hmm... lemmee see...

we've got the oil can light for when there's no oil pressure

got the petrol light when there's no petrol

brakes light when you've got no brake pads left

so... if ENGINE light goes on, has your engine fallen out??! :badgrin:


Bit curious exactly what that light does these days. In the old days the 'engine'
light was a telltale for the alternator/generator... if it wasn't charging, light comes on.
Engine tells whether the emission control system is working properly, usually indicates a stuffed O2 sensor. The car has a battery light that will come on if the battery isn't being charged properly (usually a problem with the alternator).

hmm... lemmee see...

we've got the oil can light for when there's no oil pressure

got the petrol light when there's no petrol

brakes light when you've got no brake pads left

so... if ENGINE light goes on, has your engine fallen out??! :badgrin:


Bit curious exactly what that light does these days. In the old days the 'engine'
light was a telltale for the alternator/generator... if it wasn't charging, light comes on.

there is a brake light to tell me i have no brake pads left ???? i have never seen that before apart of the light when i have the handbrake on, but thats to tell me its engaged/disengaged.. time to look at my owner's manual again i think

there is a brake light to tell me i have no brake pads left ???? i have never seen that before apart of the light when i have the handbrake on, but thats to tell me its engaged/disengaged.. time to look at my owner's manual again i think

In my Hyundai.. when my handbrake light stayed on, it meant that my brake fluid was low/leaking.. learnt that the hard way!

there is a brake light to tell me i have no brake pads left ???? i have never seen that before apart of the light when i have the handbrake on, but thats to tell me its engaged/disengaged.. time to look at my owner's manual again i think
Yeh there is, i wouldnt rely on it though. In my TR my brakes over-heated and faded to nothing. After being stopped for 5 minutes the brake warning light comes on, YEH THANKS FOR TELLING ME 5 MINUTES AFTER I FIGURED I HAD NO BRAKES!

hmm... lemmee see...

so... if ENGINE light goes on, has your engine fallen out??! :badgrin:


Bit curious exactly what that light does these days. In the old days the 'engine'
light was a telltale for the alternator/generator... if it wasn't charging, light comes on.

During start-up, "Check Engine" Light lights up to show that the car is doing:
- Checking all sensors connected to ECU. These sensors, such as Air Flow Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, etc etc give data to the ECU so the ECU can determine the amount of fuel to be injected. If the light does not go out, there is a problem with one (ore more) of the sensors. Unfortunately we have to perform MUT (which I forget what it stands for) at the dealer to detemine which sensor is not functioning. Some people do "paperclip checking" to show which "Error Code" it shows.
- Preparing the engine for start up. When it lights u pre-cranking it also measures the outside temperature, engine temperature, then starts the fuel pump ready to be injected, so the cranking will be much easier.

Cant remember about 1st and 2nd gens but the 3rd gens don't have a low brake pad warning light. That light is for the brake fluid level but there is no low pad warning which is a bit on the cheep side in my opinion. Even my 1972 peugeot use to have low pad warning.

Cant remember about 1st and 2nd gens but the 3rd gens don't have a low brake pad warning light. That light is for the brake fluid level but there is no low pad warning which is a bit on the cheep side in my opinion. Even my 1972 peugeot use to have low pad warning.

Mine squeek when braking.. that's probably the warning lol

Cant remember about 1st and 2nd gens but the 3rd gens don't have a low brake pad warning light. That light is for the brake fluid level but there is no low pad warning which is a bit on the cheep side in my opinion. Even my 1972 peugeot use to have low pad warning.
yea I was wondering about that. Was meditating under the car the other weekend
whilst waiting for the sump to drip dry, shot some brake cleaner onto the ABS wheel
and tried inspecting the brake pads... didn't see any wire for the 'sensor' to pads.

I guess if your brake fluid reservoir is 'full' when the pads are new,
a low fluid level is pretty good sign that the pads are worn too.

Old style sensor was just a wire that touched the brake disc and grounded the circuit.
Usually didn't work very well after it activated a few times &/or DIY backyard pad changing. :P