I've been contemplating installing a Whitline front swaybar as I recently installed a rear swaybar and now notice how much the front end rolls around corners.

Installation question for those who have attempted a front sway bar installation.

1. Do you put the front wheels up on ramps (as per rear wheels for rear swaybar install) or do you put the chassis on jackstands?

2. Do you really need to remove front part of exhaust and centre engine member or can it be manuvoured (with some difficultly) into place.

3. If you remove the exhaust pipe, do you need new gasket material?

dosnt the front sway bars go ontop from one strut tower to the other like this?

dosnt the front sway bars go ontop from one strut tower to the other like this?

Strut brace on top (of strut towers) to ensure camber/castor settings are maintained during cornering. - 5 min install

Swaybar (underneath car) links lower control arms together to lessen body roll. - 1-2 hour install

ahhhh right my bad. i keep gettin confused :)

ahhhh right my bad. i keep gettin confused :)

no probs - I've done a lot of reading on the topic recently but I'm trying to save on the installation costs (~$200)...If I can.:cool:

I've been contemplating installing a Whitline front swaybar as I recently installed a rear swaybar and now notice how much the front end rolls around corners.

How hard/easy was it to put the rear bar on? Did your car already have a stock rear bar? or did you get the kit?

1. Do you put the front wheels up on ramps (as per rear wheels for rear swaybar install) or do you put the chassis on jackstands?

2. Do you really need to remove front part of exhaust and centre engine member or can it be manuvoured (with some difficultly) into place.

3. If you remove the exhaust pipe, do you need new gasket material?


1. Jackstands not ramps.. im pretty sure its easier with the wheels off from memory..

2. Sure can.. its not too difficult either so no need to start pulling everything apart
Basically when you pull the stock one out, you will work out the best way to get the new one back in :)

3. N/a

1. Jackstands not ramps.. im pretty sure its easier with the wheels off from memory..

2. Sure can.. its not too difficult either so no need to start pulling everything apart
Basically when you pull the stock one out, you will work out the best way to get the new one back in :)

3. N/a

Mysti,

You are a champ!!

If I don't have to remove exhaust etc... I will give it a go.

VRADA,

I didn't have a rear swaybar to begin with so I had to fit all the brackets etc...
If you've got some mechanical knowledge, and you like hands on, give it a go it's straight forward.

My tips for rear swaybar installation
1. Whiteline recommend that final adjustments should be done at ride height so I use ramps to install and when I retensioned all nuts, I drove the rear wheels up onto a couple of sleepers (just enough room to get under but still maintained the vehicles weight balance
2. Use lots of grease on the poly bushes (I actually bought some lithium based grease as I needed a bit more than what was supplied.
3. If your nuts are too tight you will induce premature failure of your bushes, if your nuts are too loose, the bar clunks around a lot when you turn corners. I ended up getting quite physical on the fitted bar to identify which nuts/brackets were too loose. (I started bench pressing the car on it's suspension. - never quite got it off the ground 700+kg presslol )
4. loosely preassemble all the brackets etc so you know where it all goes and have some pictures (from this forum) to help. A picture says a 1000 words.

That's all I can think of.

Mysti,

You are a champ!!

If I don't have to remove exhaust etc... I will give it a go.


It would be great if you would be able to document the process in either words, or photos or a combination!!!

But hey, I always say I'm gonna do that when I install something, and never do :redface: .

It would be great if you would be able to document the process in either words, or photos or a combination!!!

But hey, I always say I'm gonna do that when I install something, and never do :redface: .


I'll see how I go.:)

Mysti,

You are a champ!!

If I don't have to remove exhaust etc... I will give it a go.

VRADA,

I didn't have a rear swaybar to begin with so I had to fit all the brackets etc...
If you've got some mechanical knowledge, and you like hands on, give it a go it's straight forward.

My tips for rear swaybar installation
1. Whiteline recommend that final adjustments should be done at ride height so I use ramps to install and when I retensioned all nuts, I drove the rear wheels up onto a couple of sleepers (just enough room to get under but still maintained the vehicles weight balance
2. Use lots of grease on the poly bushes (I actually bought some lithium based grease as I needed a bit more than what was supplied.
3. If your nuts are too tight you will induce premature failure of your bushes, if your nuts are too loose, the bar clunks around a lot when you turn corners. I ended up getting quite physical on the fitted bar to identify which nuts/brackets were too loose. (I started bench pressing the car on it's suspension. - never quite got it off the ground 700+kg presslol )
4. loosely preassemble all the brackets etc so you know where it all goes and have some pictures (from this forum) to help. A picture says a 1000 words.

That's all I can think of.

Where are the pics you found off the forum of the rear set up?
Im thinking i will probably just get a suspension shop down this way to do it with the front at the same time. that way if it did stuff up id have someone to blame for a new bar =) haha

cheers all the same, good little write up.

Fitting Front Sway Bar.
Did it myself last year to an AWD, I'l lleave this in as well.
1) Slacken wheel nuts slightly each side
2) Jack up on and stand the body on axle stands with cushioning to the body. Handbrake on and wheel chocks at the rear.
3) Take wheels off.
4) Remove links between the sway bar ends and the lower track Control arms.
5) Remove the plastic undershield
6) Remove the shield on the longitudinal engine member.
7) Loosen the longitudinal engine member.
8) I then removed the exhaust front pipe between the cat and the 2 exhaust manifolds. There is enough cable on the O2 sensor to let the pipe drop enough. Caution the cable is clipped to the tunnel above the exhaust pipe.
9) Remove the sway bar saddle clamps each side.
10) AWD ONLY. Disconnect the front prop shaft from the centre bearing assembly and pull out of the gearbox. BEFORE doing mark the flange so it can be put back the correct way.
11) Remove the old sway bar.
12) Put the new yellow bushes on the new bar, AFTER using the grease supplied by Whiteline.
13) and on. Reverse the above from 10 back to 1.

At the end don't tighten the link bolts until the car is on the ground,

It can be done on a FWD in about 2 hours, slightly longer on an AWD because of the time it takes to remove and replace the front prop shaft.

Ideally you need a good socket set, some ring spanners, screwdrivers etc.

I did not need any exhaust sealer for the pipe to manifold joints.

Hope that this helps

Sounds good Spud100. Did it make much difference? Did u have rear done before? Comparisons? I have White's adjustable at rear and Tower Brace, but std front stabiliser.

Sounds good Spud100. Did it make much difference? Did u have rear done before? Comparisons? I have White's adjustable at rear and Tower Brace, but std front stabiliser.

I'm in the same boat, still unsure weather to upgrade the front sway.

MAN ASHNEEL I LOVE BOTH UR's and CHOONGA's pix lol

Have had this done on 2 cars.
First was a GEN 2 KS wagon.

Rear bar was done first, i.e. from nothing. Heaps better.
Front bar was done a couple of months later.
Yes the front bar makes a slight difference, less front roll, however it puts a bit of understeer back. I also had KYB's fitted.
The overall result was a much better initial handling, mini- roundabouts become a flick-flick at the speed limit, i.e. you don't need to slow down!!

Second car is a TJII AWD.
Again I did the rear bar first, went to the adjustable one and initially set it on the lightest setting first.
Noticeable improvement over the standard 16mm bar, then tried the centre setting, MUCH MUCH better, I could feel the front tyre sidewalls flexing on turn in.
After the intial turn in the car then just sits in a groove as you go round a sweeping corner.
Then tried the hardest setting, really too much by itself.
A week later I fitted the front sway bar.
Tried against the middle and hardest rear bar settings. Best balance is with the rear bar on the hardest setting.
Definitely not as a dramatic improvement as the rear bar change.
At that time I could still feel the front tyre walls flex during the initial turn in. When settled down the on - rails feeling was improved.

The next move was to change from the 215/60/16 GII's to 17x8 Rims with Azensis ST115's 235/45/17.
Fantastic difference, ride quality is a little harder. However the turn in quality almost improves as much as the rear bar change.
What I have noticed after a year is that the tyre wear is almost even across the tread.
The original tyres basically scrub the outside blocks off first as they are fighting the rear to front weight transfer with the standard sway bar set-up.
I now feel that the original spring and shock absorber set up are too soft. The car still rolls too much and is too easy to hit the bump stops going into and out of a local valley here in Sydney. Next move will be to change shocks and springs. I can certainly understand the Mitsubishi suspension aim for the 380 to improve the handling.
Can't afford Coilovers so will probably get Koni Sports and the usual super low/ Low combination.
BTW I am comparing to a European V6 Ford Capri that I had that had Bilstein shock and reasonably stiff suspension as standard.

The same comments applies to the GEN II, Originally it was my wife's car, even she scrubbed out the front tyres very rapidly. We had the rear and front bars on for nearly 3 years. Tyre wear, again was much improved.
This indicates that the front tyres are not being asked to work as hard, this translates into much better front end grip.

Thanks for the very analytical response.:)

Can't afford Coilovers so will probably get Koni Sports and the usual super low/ Low combination.
BTW I am comparing to a European V6 Ford Capri that I had that had Bilstein shock and reasonably stiff suspension as standard.


I really recommend getting the coilovers. I was quoted around $1,100 supply only for a set of front and rear Koni's, and you will pay approximately $400 for kings springs installed.

Got Hotbits Race spec coilovers supplied and fitted for a little over $2,300.

My car only has the coilovers and a H/Duty rear sway bar fitted, and like you - I find the rear sway bar to be most effective on the hardest setting. Alot of people told me I would spin the car around with the H/Duty rear bar on the stiffest setting, but I've only ever had the rear end step out on me once, and it was on very cold tyres, on a very cold road and I must say I was surprised at how predictable the car was despite the situation. So it sounds to me like the stiffness gained from the coilovers has had a similar effect on the car as fitting a larger front sway bar.

Okay People,
The front sway bar is now in. If you don't want your front end to roll around corners anymore, I recommend this mod. The 24mm bar is about 50% stiffer than the stock one and you DO notice the difference. The car stays much flatter during cornering now.

Anyway I was asked to Give a blow by blow description. (Sorry no photos - hands were far too dirty for my new camera) - And This wont be a comprehesive How to manual

1. Prepared the car as per previous posts in this thread (jackstands, wheels off)
2. Disconnected Swaybar links and saddle brackets. Removed Stock bushes) - Bar could not be removed.
3. Removed rear bolts on Longitudinal engine support member. (3 bolts) and Loosen off front Exhaust pipe (back to the Cat) - Bar could not be removed. It was still being fouled on Lower control arm.
4. Removed both the rear bracket (3 bolts) and the long side bolt to allow the Control arm to be gently lowered on the ball joint enough to squeeze the swaybar out. (Support the control arm and that ball joint, don't allow control arm to swing down and damage joint)
5. Inserted new bar with greased bushes.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
7. Exception - Swaybar links should be tightened on ground. As should the long bolts on the lower control arms.

Apologies to the limited description. It is not as simple as the rear bar to change. But I recommend it as it balances out the car nicely.

Thanks for the "how to"...... but it sounds like something I'll leave to the professionals.

This is the bit that I have a problem with:

7. Exception - Swaybar links should be tightened on ground. As should the long bolts on the lower control arms.

I fitted my rear sway bar before I had my coilovers installed (just kings low springs fitted at the time) and I had all of 6 inches to swing he wrenches to tighten up all the bolts (hit my head so many freaking times it wasn't funny). So there's no way I'd be able to do the same at the front without winding up my coilovers. Sure it would be easier on ramps....... but a 4 post hoist would be even better :D

Thanks for the "how to"...... but it sounds like something I'll leave to the professionals.

This is the bit that I have a problem with:


I fitted my rear sway bar before I had my coilovers installed (just kings low springs fitted at the time) and I had all of 6 inches to swing he wrenches to tighten up all the bolts (hit my head so many freaking times it wasn't funny). So there's no way I'd be able to do the same at the front without winding up my coilovers. Sure it would be easier on ramps....... but a 4 post hoist would be even better :D

Yeah, Mines at Stock height and I could only just get a spanner in to tighten the front sway-links. No chance of getting my large torque-wrench in though. (That wasn't on ramps)

It wasn't difficult to do just more laborious than I'd have hoped. And I probably saved $120+ on the install.

Do swaybars effect ride quality at all? And will they worsen the car's handling on inferior roads, particularly at highway speeds?

I'm very interested in replacing the front and rear sway bars in my VR-X, but the old man reckons they aren't a good idea, for those two reasons....

Do swaybars effect ride quality at all? And will they worsen the car's handling on inferior roads, particularly at highway speeds?

I'm very interested in replacing the front and rear sway bars in my VR-X, but the old man reckons they aren't a good idea, for those two reasons....

Don't confuse worsening the cars handling on inferior roads to worsening the ride comfort on inferior roads.

Upgrading front sway bar shouldn't adversely effect the cars ride quality, but a rear (on a 2wd magna) will tie the movement of the two rear wheels together. You understand the concept of independant rear suspension?? a rear sway bar will reduce the "independance" of the rear end.

As far as "performance suspension" upgrades go - sway bars will not effect ride quality anywhere near as much as stiffer springs / shock absorbers. Sway bars reduce body roll, and as such will probably be even more beneficial on a car of standard ride height, than on a car that has been lowered with stiffer suspension.

In my experience of fitting a rear sway bar to a lowered car....... I didn't think the change was anywhere near as profound as I was led to believe it would be.

Don't confuse worsening the cars handling on inferior roads to worsening the ride comfort on inferior roads.

I probably should have worded it better, I meant worse ride comfort on all roads.


You understand the concept of independant rear suspension?? a rear sway bar will reduce the "independance" of the rear end.

Ahh.... that's probably what my dad was getting at, particularly with the bumpy road example. It all makes sense now :P


As far as "performance suspension" upgrades go - sway bars will not effect ride quality anywhere near as much as stiffer springs / shock absorbers.

Which is why I was looking at getting them. I like my VR-X's suspension - it's pretty comfy, and I'd like to be able to maximise handling without sacrificing ride.


Thanks for your words of wisdom.

Thanks for your words of wisdom.

HAHAHAHAhahaha...... I wouldn't exactly call it wisdom. Infact on second thoughts, I'd recommend getting second opinion lol .

Well your words are probably more wismical than my dad's, so that's a good enough start for me :P

Don't confuse worsening the cars handling on inferior roads to worsening the ride comfort on inferior roads.

Upgrading front sway bar shouldn't adversely effect the cars ride quality, but a rear (on a 2wd magna) will tie the movement of the two rear wheels together. You understand the concept of independant rear suspension?? a rear sway bar will reduce the "independance" of the rear end.

As far as "performance suspension" upgrades go - sway bars will not effect ride quality anywhere near as much as stiffer springs / shock absorbers. Sway bars reduce body roll, and as such will probably be even more beneficial on a car of standard ride height, than on a car that has been lowered with stiffer suspension.

In my experience of fitting a rear sway bar to a lowered car....... I didn't think the change was anywhere near as profound as I was led to believe it would be.

I agree with everything Black Beard said (he's a pretty switched on fellow:D ), but I have my own differing opinion on sway bar improvement on a lowered car. While I'll agree the difference would be more noticeable on a non-lowered car, it still made a massive difference to my car (was already lowered before installing the rear sway).

I found at the start it didn't feel like a big improvement (compared to expectations), but since "exploring" lol the new handling limits I have found the harder you push the more evident it is the handling limits have been greatly increased (and I'm still on the softest setting). :)

Reading another new thread about replacing swaybar bushes on a 380... I'm getting some knock when going over bumps in the road, same symptom as in the 380 thread. The bushes on the car are original, and the car has done 330,000km!

On a 3rd gen, what is the procedure for replacing the swaybar bushes only? looking on the nolathane website it lists more than one size of front swaybar bushes for the TF, which one is the correct size? 20mm, 21.5mm or 23mm? also is some sort of grease required?

What about the control arms? if possible might as well do those at the same time!

Thanks in advance!

You are aware this thread is 4 years old?

EDIT: Just thought I'd let him know. He may have thought he was asking the original author. Feel free to delete this post if you wish.

Reading another new thread about replacing swaybar bushes on a 380... I'm getting some knock when going over bumps in the road, same symptom as in the 380 thread. The bushes on the car are original, and the car has done 330,000km!

On a 3rd gen, what is the procedure for replacing the swaybar bushes only? looking on the nolathane website it lists more than one size of front swaybar bushes for the TF, which one is the correct size? 20mm, 21.5mm or 23mm? also is some sort of grease required?

What about the control arms? if possible might as well do those at the same time!

Thanks in advance!

I am pretty sure bushes in my front end need to be looked at as I get a loud knock when driving over cats-eyes for some reason.


You are aware this thread is 4 years old?

I don't see a problem with it since he is not responding to a post 4 yrs ago but raising new questions.

I am pretty sure bushes in my front end need to be looked at as I get a loud knock when driving over cats-eyes for some reason.

That sounds like the issue I have, although I have left it for a while and it doesn't get any better!

I thought this would be a good place to ask since its related to this old thread, but since I only want to replace the bushes and not the swaybar the process wouldn't have to be in depth, at least thats what I assume. I thought there may be another way someone has come up with that makes it a DIY-able job!

I guess there isn't any easy way to do it yourself... I was hoping only one side of the car needed to be jacked up and could do each side individually... Also it seems there may be more than one type of mount even in the same model, hence the different choiced of swaybar mounts, can anyone clarify this?

Nolathane list several bush sizes.
This is to cover the standard and aftermarket sway bar diameters.

You should be able to fit when the car is on the ground.

Just remove the 2 bolts each side.
If necessary then pry the swaybar off the crossmember so you can slide then peel the bush off the sway bar.

Open up the new bush, push over the bar.
Put some lithium grease where the bush will end up.
Slide the bushes back to their operational position.

Replace the clamp plates and bolts, tighten up.
All done.
Should take about 20 minutes.
Gerry

That sounds pretty easy, I'll order in some sway bar bushes and give it a try! The car has only the standard sway bar, anyone know which size is the standard size bush?

Either way it would be good to know from someone that has done them before :) Worst case scenerio I could take them to a garage to get done, I just wouldn't have to pay for parts (just as long as I get the right size)! There is a bit of disagreement it seems which is better, urethane (like nolathane) or rubber. For sway bar urethane is definitely the way to go, its stiffness helps the swaybar operation apparently.

Anyways, going to measure up the end of this week the actual size required (as there are several size listings) and order in a pair. I believe its around $25, I asked the last time I was there. If anyone can clarify whether it can be done without too many hassles such as taking off the load etc let me know!

2 posts up, i described how to do it.
I, in fact, changed to the bigger diameter Whiteline bar, now that is a Bu**er to fit as the propshaft and exhaust have to be dropped out.
It is easy.

1 spanner and a big long screwdriver to lever the bar down a bit to get clearance to slide the old bushes out.

Gerry

Thanks for the clarification! I see the poster between #34 and #35 has deleted his post :)

Its good you have actually done it, least I know for sure that it can be done! I'll let you know how it goes, I'll order it tomorrow and should be able to do it end of next week depending on when I get the part in.

I forgot to mention how i went with replacing the sway bar bushes and links. It ended up being extremely easy with the Nolathane bushes, since they have a slit in the side. They just pop straigh over the swaybar from the inner side of the car, and they can be easily pushed into position before replacing the bracket.

The method in the book is for the standard bushes, which requires much more work. The Nolathane bushes can be easily installed with just one side jacked up :)

Ensure you just don't rely on the single jack, that safety is the first priority. Besides, you may need a jack to place under the control arm to raise it so the swaybar links can be reattached.