Guide to installing a new fuel regulator in a 3rd Gen

Step 1: Let car cool still fuel rail is able to be touched by bare skin.
Step 2: Remove the back seat by pulling on the 2 clips at the front of the seat and lifting the front up and out.
Step 3: Undo the 4 screws around the metal plate u see in the middle of where the seat used to be.
Step 4: Unclip the cable that is visible from the now open hole.
Step 5: Start Car and wait until engine stops on its own (car may splutter a couple of times don’t be alarmed).
Step 6: Open Bonnet.
Step 7: In front of the intake manifold there will be the front fuel rail with a small tube going to the rear fuel rail behind the intake manifold and on the right hand side of the front rail will be a small gold regulator.
Step 8: pull the hose off the top tip of the regulator (this is just a vacuum hose).
Step 9: pull the bottom hose off the regulator (this is the fuel line hose some fuel will dribble out but should shortly stop).
Step 10: undo the 2 bolts holding the stock regulator on and pull the stock regulator out (sometimes these will still have a little pressure behind them so be aware that they can go pop as u take them off).
Step 11: fit the fuel rail adaptor to where the old regulator was.
Step 12: fit a length of hose going from the adaptor the outlet on the regulator and tighten both ends of the hose with hose clamps.
Step 13: fit the fuel line to the inlet of the regulator and tighten the hose clamp on that fitting.
Step 14: refit the small hose that was removed in step 8.
Step 15: make sure all fittings are tight and all hose clamps are tightened.
Step 16: reconnect power to the fuel pump under the back seat by reconnecting the cable that was unplugged in step 4.
Step 17: start the car (it may die a couple of times but just keep restarting it).
Step 18: take your car for a spin around the block and enjoy your new Fuel Regulator.

There's a much easier way to depressurise the fuel system, by disconnecting the fuel pump relay located behind the carpet in the drivers footwell. I also recommend starting the car at least 10 times after doing this - even then there will be a fair bit of fuel in the fuel rails (not enough to "spray" but definetly enough to cause a bit of a dribble).

Don't know about you - but I mounted my fuel pressure regulator on the firewall above the little cylinder thingy the fuel return line goes into.

There's a much easier way to depressurise the fuel system, by disconnecting the fuel pump relay located behind the carpet in the drivers footwell. I also recommend starting the car at least 10 times after doing this - even then there will be a fair bit of fuel in the fuel rails (not enough to "spray" but definetly enough to cause a bit of a dribble).

Don't know about you - but I mounted my fuel pressure regulator on the firewall above the little cylinder thingy the fuel return line goes into.

i have a huge regulator (upto 140PSI) and so i cable tied to it my CAI and no movement whatsoever but after i get my engine cover it'll have a much more perminant location and my car had no fuel in the lines after only one start. i was just saying there might be a possability

u dont need to start ur car heaps of times. when it stalls, just open the fuel cap n let the pressure out. this reduces the chance of sprayin

the spray wasn't from teh fuel lines it was from after the regulator there will be built up pressure in there as the regulator wont have all the pressure go backwards

just trying to help some other members on here

Get much performance increase from a bigger fuel regulator?

Or just removing flat spots in the rev range?

well atleast i wrote up a guide on someting i did if u can do better then please do as i'll just do it u'r way

Sounds good. Just need some pics then the mods can sticky it....

i have a huge regulator (upto 140PSI) and so i cable tied to it my CAI and no movement whatsoever but after i get my engine cover it'll have a much more perminant location and my car had no fuel in the lines after only one start. i was just saying there might be a possability

funny thing is the fuel pump doesnt put out 140psi

Thanks for the info twunka!! will help a lot once i get mine!!

dont waste your money, if you want more fuel pressure unplug the vacume hose to the original pressure reg, this will give you max pressure from the pump.

thats if you like using heaps of fuel

dont waste your money, if you want more fuel pressure unplug the vacume hose to the original pressure reg, this will give you max pressure from the pump.

thats if you like using heaps of fuel


you sir are an idiot

whats a 140psi reg going to do if the pump can only put out 50psi?

whats a 140psi reg going to do if the pump can only put out 50psi?

Show me one person with a Rising Rate FPR fitted to a Magna who has it wound out to 140psi, and doesn't have upgraded fuel pumps. :nuts:

and whats the fuel pumps max pressure?

and whats the fuel pumps max pressure?

You wanna debate the usefulness of the product, do it elsewhere. This thread is for the benefit of people who want to know how to install one.

:gtfo:

im not debating how to fit one...im debating why would you want to..
the fuel lines in the car wouldnt even be rated to 140psi
so if the pump was able to make that pressure it is a danger of fire if a fuel line blows and insurance would not cover it.

so whats the pump your using rated to???
most aftermarket pumps have same pressure with a higher flow rate

UP TO 140psi magnus...The words you've missed are "Up to".

yea ok
but after fitting it. whats the pressure at now?

yea ok
but after fitting it. whats the pressure at now?


Just quit fighting it and drop it, you were wrong, you read it wrong, stop trying to be Mr. Iknoweverythingandnothingyoudoisgood. SO STFU and have a nice day.

Just quit fighting it and drop it, you were wrong, you read it wrong, stop trying to be Mr. Iknoweverythingandnothingyoudoisgood. SO STFU and have a nice day.

i didnt read it wrong
why would you need 140psi fuel reg

and i see no one has checked pressure after this mod ???

i didnt read it wrong
why would you need 140psi fuel reg

and i see no one has checked pressure after this mod ???

Why would you say that?? just because no one feels the need to justify their actions to you :nuts: .

If you must know - my baseline fuel pressure (at idle, at temp) is about 36psi, and it's a rising rate pressure regulator, so as manifold pressure decreases, fuel pressure increases (I think thats how it works anyway)

i didnt read it wrong
why would you need 140psi fuel reg

and i see no one has checked pressure after this mod ???

Why does it matter?

There no real difference between a 60 PSI max regulator set at 40 PSI base pressure and a 140 PSI max unit set at 40 PSI.

Why would you say that?? just because no one feels the need to justify their actions to you :nuts: .

If you must know - my baseline fuel pressure (at idle, at temp) is about 36psi, and it's a rising rate pressure regulator, so as manifold pressure decreases, fuel pressure increases (I think thats how it works anyway)

that works the same way the original does

that works the same way the original does

Dude...... RISING RATE means that the fuel pressure doesn't rise at the same rate (1:1), in a rising rate FPR the ratio is something like 1:1.7.

The long weekend is here now, so you can take your fishing elsewhere.

yes i said "UPTO 140 PSI" i dont run it on 140 PSI, most of the time i run it on 35 but occasionally pump it to around 56 PSI to remove the flatspot. what kind of idiot are u that i do something nice for ppl on here (i was asked by shawn and another member on here to do up a install guide and i thought i'd share it with u's) and u start picking a fight. anway i wash my hands of this situation. if u wanna use this guide to install a FPR then go for it if not then dont pick a fight like magnus has tried to and thanks BB i'll shot u a beer or summin for explaining a bit better :D

Twunka thanks mate its a big help some people appreciate it :)

Magnus ya tool he is running it at 40Psi and never once said he was "RUNNING" it at 140psi :bowrofl: i don't think thats possible given the fuel pump!

Ive been told it helps with the flat spot and im going to purchase one off ebay for around $60 and wind it upto about 45Psi :D

the std reg runs at 39psi at idle and 50psi max with foot down...

im not picking a fight i cant understand why you would bother with the mod..
i dont think its worth $60 for something that the car allready has on it..

if the reg your fitting was so good they would have them bolted on from the factory

unless using a higher psi pump its not worth it,, also when using higher pressure the fuels spray pattern changes giving your car worse fuel econ,
and more fuel waisted not completely burnt..

but hey i wouldnt know ****..

even thoe your putting more pressure through the injector the o2 is going to try lean it out by changing the injector pulse width

Twunka thanks mate its a big help some people appreciate it :)

Magnus ya tool he is running it at 40Psi and never once said he was "RUNNING" it at 140psi :bowrofl: i don't think thats possible given the fuel pump!

Ive been told it helps with the flat spot and im going to purchase one off ebay for around $60 and wind it upto about 45Psi :D

before you buy one take the vacume hose off the original reg and go for a drive see if theres a differance...ive tryed it on a few cars and it didnt make any differance

but hey i wouldnt know ****..

At least you've finally admitted it.

I think the point you are missing magnus it that the factory tune of the car is actually a bit leaner than you want for power. A rising rate FPR will chuck in 1.7 times as much fuel as the standard FPR under load (heavy acceleration, hills, etc.) and as a result of the richer fuel mixture will have more power.
No, it's not good for fuel economy. (around town)
No, it's not good for emmisions. (around town)
Yes, it is good for power!
And, No, the computer will not use the O2 sensor to compensate as that is only factored into the fuelling in closed-loop mode. And closed-loop mode is only entered under cruise conditions. That also means highway fuel economy is not affected at all.
All in all its a cheap and nasty way of remapping the computer for more power or overcoming injectors that are too small due to other mods.
And the reason you notice no difference on your stock FPR when you remove the vaccum pipe is that (correct me if im wrong) they only use the vaccum to change fuel pressure at idle, and on overrun. Most of the regulation is done by a spring inside the unit. Remove the vaccum pipe and you should notice a change in the idle of the car.

the std reg runs at 39psi at idle and 50psi max with foot down...

im not picking a fight i cant understand why you would bother with the mod..
i dont think its worth $60 for something that the car allready has on it..

if the reg your fitting was so good they would have them bolted on from the factory

unless using a higher psi pump its not worth it,, also when using higher pressure the fuels spray pattern changes giving your car worse fuel econ,
and more fuel waisted not completely burnt..

but hey i wouldnt know ****..

even thoe your putting more pressure through the injector the o2 is going to try lean it out by changing the injector pulse width


So.... if it was that good they would have bolted it on from the factory huh? Then why dont all cars have turbos and superchargers and arent all at 400hp? Its all good stuff so why didnt they bolt it on from the factory...... :doubt:

spoke to a efi specilast today he is a injector cleaner and seller of injectors and these fuel pressure regs he said not worth putting on your car unless you have a turbo.

thats from a expert

spoke to a efi specilast today he is a injector cleaner and seller of injectors and these fuel pressure regs he said not worth putting on your car unless you have a turbo.

thats from a expert



Serioulsy, just drop it, leave the guy the **** alone, he did what he wanted to do, now go home you little *****.

spoke to a efi specilast today he is a injector cleaner and seller of injectors and these fuel pressure regs he said not worth putting on your car unless you have a turbo.

thats from a expert
what about if your not going turbo, but you are boring, and stroking, with cams, oversize valves, bigger fuel pump and injectors, high flowed heads and manifolds, all the gear, is it then still a bad idea to run the different FPR? as you may want to utilize a higer min, and max fuel pressure than factory.

spoke to a efi specilast today he is a injector cleaner and seller of injectors and these fuel pressure regs he said not worth putting on your car unless you have a turbo.

thats from a expert


jeese magnus i try to help out ppl (I"LL SAY IT AGAIN I GOT ASKED TO DO UP A GUIDE BY SHAWN) and u crap on me. man u sir are an asshat

what about if your not going turbo, but you are boring, and stroking, with cams, oversize valves, bigger fuel pump and injectors, high flowed heads and manifolds, all the gear, is it then still a bad idea to run the different FPR? as you may want to utilize a higer min, and max fuel pressure than factory.

i asked that question and answer is no
only if turbo or s/c

i asked that question and answer is no
only if turbo or s/c
answer isnt no, they are useful other then just for turbo or s/c
i run one and i need it and i dont have either of these

Hey magnus,

I have one, it looks sexy under the bonnet, and makes my exhaust shoot flames when its rich. :cool:

Its well worth it.

The FPR is beneficial if you are going to turbo although there are many of reasons to why ppl install them not just for tc or s/c use. for eg flatspots are the main reason ppl are trying them out and my mechanic has told me they can be beneficial in many of other ways!!

Twunka i appreciate the guide you have written and im sure many of others do aswell.
forget magnus and his comments they mean nothing :nuts:

Hey magnus,

I have one, it looks sexy under the bonnet, and makes my exhaust shoot flames when its rich. :cool:

Its well worth it.

Lol thats funny **** :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

I trust Twunka when he sais he can notice a difference driving his own car after installing it, he said it helped with the flat spot so im going to try it out, not really costing me anything TAX MONEY!!!!!!!! :badgrin:

i didnt say the write up was bad ???

what caused the flat spot?

i drive magnas every day never found one yet with flat spots???

i didnt say the write up was bad ???

what caused the flat spot?

i drive magnas every day never found one yet with flat spots???

have u ever taken it 2000 RPM u nob

Magnus...... your profile says you are going to "advance timing by a few degrees soon".

How would you like it everyone started hanging sh*t on you for doing that because it's "not worthwhile"???

Guess what...... I've got an FPR, and I've had more timing put into my car with the Emanage, and I found the FPR more beneficial on a magna with "breathing mods".

because i only use high octaine fuel thats why im going to advance it a deg or 2
and i wont need a aftermarket computer to do it.

the install instructions are good
the fuel reg i wouldnt install in my mind because the one on the car is fine
asked a expert and he said not to waist your money

i just laugh at people that install things to there car like monster tacos, fuel regs, thoes o2 meters that move back and foward on a car thats all just bling bling, just like haveng a toss off valve set at 2000rpm just so people can hear your car sneeze..

Where can i get am fpr from and how much?

lol 60 to 100 bux autobarn ect

lol 60 to 100 bux autobarn ect



Serioulsy man, STFU and quit laughin at what people wanna do. Now :gtfo: and go play with yourself or something you homo

wow, so many crybabies.

lets play a game. next person to flame ANYONE gets a holiday.

It's not really a game, well for me maybe, and there can only be one winner, guess who that will be? :)

Refer to new avatar for hints.

good day and play nicely

Just a thought for people who like to tinker, I actually adjusted the pressure of my stock reg. By connecting an in line fuel pressure guage at idle with the car hot fuel pressure was 320KPa and using a small G clamp and the perfect size socket for the rim of the reg I slowly compressed the unit (very slowly) until it reached 360 Kpa. This did seem to improve off the line performance and slightly crispier throttle response while maintaining good fuel economy. By increasing fuel pressure too much at the rail you can cause damage to injectors, rail and fuel supply lines. Also resulting in running rough, blowing black smoke, excessive fuel consumption and fouling of plugs. Have a crack if you know what you are doing. stock reg is cheap to replace if you muck it up

Hey magnus,

I have one, it looks sexy under the bonnet, and makes my exhaust shoot flames when its rich. :cool:

Its well worth it.
I do hope you know that those flames are a quick way to screw up your cat converter, resulting in higher NOx outputs and possibly a collapsed converter?

I do hope you know that those flames are a quick way to screw up your cat converter, resulting in higher NOx outputs and possibly a collapsed converter?
I think you'll find that post was a joke...

oops :redface:

It's ok ;)

We still love you :cool:

Hey, just out of question, what do you all have your regs set at?
I'm still mucking about with mine, and at present, due to the lack of any other mods (i stuck it on coz it was lying around...) i managed to so far get a bit more power. (I presume i'll get more with more mods...)
I have a 1.7 rising rate malpassi running in series with the factory one, and actually have it set a little lean (factory one handles low revs) which in turn makes it slightly richer at higher revs than the factory. Seems to work a treat... I forget what its set at but from memory its a little under 30psi at idle. And with vaccum off i set it to a little over 47psi, around 50 i think.
I also plan to advance the timing soon, but i havnt looked into it at all.. can you adjust the dizzy like in a carbied car?

Oh, and for reference its cost me so far 155 for the reg and 30 for the pressure gauge and thats it. not sure how much you all pay for your regs but i think its more for the kit isnt it?

question about FPR`s if these are broken or not working proply in my magna could it be the reason why my car is stalling all the time, i start it it hits 2k rpms then goes off, changed the battery 2 times, changed maf air thing 2 times and had it tunned to my pod, changed starter motor and alternator still does it......

question about FPR`s if these are broken or not working proply in my magna could it be the reason why my car is stalling all the time, i start it it hits 2k rpms then goes off, changed the battery 2 times, changed maf air thing 2 times and had it tunned to my pod, changed starter motor and alternator still does it......

i dont know whether it would cause the car to stall, I doubt it highly. The most common sympton of a faulty FPR is long cranking times after the car has been sitting for an extended peridod of time. Lets say first thing in the morning, the faulty FPR has not held pressure in the rail and most has drained to tank via return line. When you first start to crank the engine the rail has to fill and build pressure before the engine will fire. maybe an idle speed controller problem, check all the connectors around your throttle body and make sure no vacuum lines are hanging off anywhere. Start basic before jumping straight in the deep end