Any 380 owners had done or know of anybody else who has started with performance mods yet??

Wud be interested in potential gains.

Had car 5 weeks now, time to play.

RPW extractors for the 380 will be released in 2 weeks time testing has been done for fitment etc.

We have also already made thermo block gasket kits for the vehicle as well.

Otherwise probably another 2 months before we finalise some computer tuning, camshafts and other more hardcore products, although if its a manuel then our short shifter kits fit up, if its an auto then definitly an Auto transmission cooler is the way to go to improve the shifting especially on hot days.

Otherwise theres lowering spring kits, strut braces if you don't have one yet etc. Plenty of mods out there for them now.

A simple DIY CAI will yeild gains up to probably 15kW ATFW. Couple that with extractors + zorst, chip + tune... there'll be some nice gains there man. Do it!

I think its a matter of people not wanting to mod their newly purchased car. Wouldn't do wonders for the new car warrenty I would think..

Just something that i heard but is it true that if you modify the exhaust on any Euro 3 compliant vehicle to reduce back pressure or change the dynamics of the system that the ECU senses this change and logs a fault?

Only on SOME Euro III compliant cars... :shifty: ;)

But yeah if you carry out any real form of driveline modification you can kiss warranty goodbye.

Only on SOME Euro III compliant cars... :shifty: ;)

But yeah if you carry out any real form of driveline modification you can kiss warranty goodbye.
I was told that the BF will log a fault if the exhaust is screwed with.... Give it a few months and im sure there will be a flash program to get around this!

I think its a matter of people not wanting to mod their newly purchased car. Wouldn't do wonders for the new car warrenty I would think..

Had zorst and headers done on VX SS whilst still under new car warranty......absolutely no warranty issues there. If there is a fault logged that shouldnt effect performance??

Are these ECU's in the 380 able to be re-mapped?? Something like the LS1 edit perhaps, or is piggyback ECU the only way to go?

A simple DIY CAI will yeild gains up to probably 15kW ATFW

i dont think so

i dont think so
Oh? From what i've read that's all they've done to the Ralliart Galant in America and it went from the standard 175kW to 258hp, which equates to 193kW.

Also, it's been proven on this site that even a CAI on a 3rd gen magna is good for about 6kW ATW which is 8kW ATFW. So is it really that hard to beleive?

Oh? From what i've read that's all they've done to the Ralliart Galant in America and it went from the standard 175kW to 258hp, which equates to 193kW.

Also, it's been proven on this site that even a CAI on a 3rd gen magna is good for about 6kW ATW which is 8kW ATFW. So is it really that hard to beleive?

Actually I thought its also been proven that a self done CAI on the 3rd gens pretty much does nothing.

Just something that i heard but is it true that if you modify the exhaust on any Euro 3 compliant vehicle to reduce back pressure or change the dynamics of the system that the ECU senses this change and logs a fault?
the reason some cars that are euro III and even IV compliant log faults etc with an exhaust change is due to the fact that they run multiple 02 sensors and multiple cats, and when replacing an exhaust sometimes one of the 02 sensors gets removed, for eg some of the new audi A3 4cyl cars have 4 02 sensors and 3 cats, (2 pre cats and then a larger one which they call a NOX storage cat)
therefore most aftermarket systems probably eliminate a cat and some of the sensors
Thats why its usualy recomended to purchase a premade system from a company like remus

Actually I thought its also been proven that a self done CAI on the 3rd gens pretty much does nothing.


Exactly

8kw atw my arrse... you get no kw's@ the wheels on a 3rd gen from home made CAI

Exactly

8kw atw my arrse... you get no kw's@ the wheels on a 3rd gen from home made CAI
:stoopid:

15KW from a CAI :bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:

Yeah I did the cause in my TH i got getter fuel economy, same with my TL and it give my exhaust a higher pitch note on both cars

Also, it's been proven on this site that even a CAI on a 3rd gen magna is good for about 6kW ATW which is 8kW ATFW. So is it really that hard to beleive?

Off topic, but Im still very sceptical of this, dynometres do have some variation in calibration, and a gain of 8kw could be easily gained by a slightly misguided dyno and perhaps a cleaner batch of fuel, and just luck of the irish on the day.

We had a thread recently that suggested most CAI setups by members were actually inducing significantly warmer air into the engine than what the stock standard MMAL effort picks up - and given the surface area increase due to the piping used by members, this could be quite understandable.

If we are to accept the readings of warmer air being induced into the engine, then we could liken the non stock CAI system to something akin to a performance placebo.

Exactly

8kw atw my arrse... you get no kw's@ the wheels on a 3rd gen from home made CAI
I said ATFW (at the fly wheel) not ATW (at the wheels) There was a thread about it a while ago if you care to search where someone had their car on a dyno, did a run, then put on a CAI, did another run and saw a gain of 6kW ATW (that's at the wheels remember?) And I believe there was also another case of it too.

Dyno's are soooo easy to fudge though.

All you have to do is alter the load that's on it to get any figure you want.

So if you don't know how to operate a dyno (lets face it...most of us here don't) then they can alter the load to show your "gain" however you want without you knowing.

I've seen it done right in front of me...it's so easy that I just don't believe dyno's at all anymore unless I know the guy who's using it and I'm there to see it happen.

It's sooooo shonky!

who gives a flying f*** what ATW Kw Figures a home job CAI gains
IT DOES i repeat IT DOES

Feel better to drive
Sound Nicer
and
Uses less fuel.

So seriously it can give a 1kw a 8kw or a 200kw difference at the wheels for all i care.

who gives a flying f*** what ATW Kw Figures a home job CAI gains
IT DOES i repeat IT DOES

Feel better to drive
Sound Nicer
and
Uses less fuel.

So seriously it can give a 1kw a 8kw or a 200kw difference at the wheels for all i care.
What about if it lost you 3kw?

Might want to compare the intakes of the Aus 380 vs the NZ 380. The NZ is rated at 180kw as apposed to the Aus 175. From what ive heard, its all in the intake ;)

Oh? From what i've read that's all they've done to the Ralliart Galant in America and it went from the standard 175kW to 258hp, which equates to 193kW.

Thats funny, i thought it had something to do with MIVEC and the lack of it on the normal Galant :nuts:

Might want to compare the intakes of the Aus 380 vs the NZ 380. The NZ is rated at 180kw as apposed to the Aus 175. From what ive heard, its all in the intake ;)
I thought it was exhaust?

Who cares. In answer to the guys question who started the thread, I think he needs to contact Mitsubishi and find out if any of the mods will void his warranty if he cares about it. If he doesn't care about it, then I say go for it because I think it will yeild some nice gains and the sound from the 3.8ltr engine will be great.

bought a base model 380 back in feb, put 235 kuhmos and mags on the next day
love the car , drives unreal on long road trips, next will be lowering suspension and change exhaust, doesn't need alot done, I found a long fast road trip improved the performance of the auto which tended to have a bit of a "flat spot" on acceleration sometimes (not sure about the computer set up on that, what have others found about that?), flooring it alot helps clear it out (running on ultimate a must) see quite alot around on the roads now :D

bought a base model 380 back in feb, put 235 kuhmos and mags on the next day
love the car , drives unreal on long road trips, next will be lowering suspension and change exhaust, doesn't need alot done, I found a long fast road trip improved the performance of the auto which tended to have a bit of a "flat spot" on acceleration sometimes (not sure about the computer set up on that, what have others found about that?), flooring it alot helps clear it out (running on ultimate a must) see quite alot around on the roads now

WOW! Your car certainly looks the peice. I must say, the 380 looks amazing with mags on it. Those mags look hot on it as well; they really suit the car. It proves how little MMAL have to do to make the 380 more appealing.

I personally have only driven a 380 once, and that was one with <2,000km on the clock so it was still 'new'. So I can't really comment on the flat spot.

When you say you floor it alot any times you've recorded?? (e.g. 0-60, 0-100?) :badgrin:

no times as yet lol (gotta get a stopwatch!!)
17''dominators sure made the difference, wider tyres made it sit better on the road and really grips on long winding roads. Am going to lower the suspension a bit more as it sits on the road quite a bit higher than the magnas which we've had about 5 and a verada. This car is quite different to drive but still a great ride:P

hook me up neville bartoss lol

bloody drug dealing bastard lol - SHOW ME YOUR CASH!

Might want to compare the intakes of the Aus 380 vs the NZ 380. The NZ is rated at 180kw as apposed to the Aus 175. From what ive heard, its all in the intake ;)

This is what I heard aswell.

I heard the NZ 380 had a TT setup that gave it the extra 5kw.....






Hearing sh!t is one thing, knowing something is another lol. Unless you've been there and seen the proof with ur own eyes, dont judge someone else's claims ;).

hook me up neville bartoss lol

bloody drug dealing bastard lol - SHOW ME YOUR CASH!
HAHAHA CHOPPER GOLD!!!:bowrofl: :bowrofl: :bowrofl:

Dyno's are soooo easy to fudge though.

All you have to do is alter the load that's on it to get any figure you want.

So if you don't know how to operate a dyno (lets face it...most of us here don't) then they can alter the load to show your "gain" however you want without you knowing.

I've seen it done right in front of me...it's so easy that I just don't believe dyno's at all anymore unless I know the guy who's using it and I'm there to see it happen.

It's sooooo shonky!
Funny you say this. A mate of mine who is an Automotive teacher at a local TAFE put my TF on their dyno and it showed 135 kw at the wheels! But, i know him well and he does have a habit of thinking he knows something when he obviously doesnt. So my 135 kw ATW has to be taken with a grain of salt...lol

Dyno's are soooo easy to fudge though.

All you have to do is alter the load that's on it to get any figure you want.

That's why DynoDynamics devised their ShootOut Mode(tm). Part of the package is that any dyno sheet produced in shootout mode has to have all the dyno inertia settings, temperature and atmospheric pressure compensation settings and so forth printed at the bottom of the dyno report.

Sure it's still just a dyno figure and it doesn't stop really dodgy operators doing really dishonest things, but it makes it harder.

In motor or wheels mag they say that the NZ versions gain 5kw from a different intake snorkel or something.

I heard the NZ 380 had a TT setup that gave it the extra 5kw.....


I'm guessing this is an attempt at sarcasm? :)



Hearing sh!t is one thing, knowing something is another lol.


I don't think anyone is disputing this.



Unless you've been there and seen the proof with ur own eyes, dont judge someone else's claims ;).

Who is judging anyones claims?

Also when we "heard", Narkus2 (I'm assuming) and myself are reffering to the thread posted here a while ago by a NZ memeber that works/worked at a Mitsubishi dealership. We "heard" it from him.

But this also backs up what we "heard"

In motor or wheels mag they say that the NZ versions gain 5kw from a different intake snorkel or something.

So M4DDOG if your quoted post above was directed at me, hope that cleared it up for you.:D

You guys want to know how people feel about Dyno's and their readings.... lol take a look over at the LS1 forum. Its always been a very hot topic and always will be. Figures are always to be taken with a grain of salt, its how the car feels on the road.

I had the Maffless Edit done on my previous SS at Sams performance in Sydney who is extremely reputable a few years back. Did an initial factory stock reading = 169rwkw. Put on pacemaker headers and twin 2 1/2 inch zorst + Monaro CAI, dyno again, reading = 196rwkw. Performed Maffless edit and changed to GTS maff pipe, dyno again, reading = 234rwkw(approx 300-320fwkw for auto). I dare mentioned to Sam that I was hoping for better figures, he was not happy and told me to take it out for a drive and then form an opinion. The whole car felt different, the previously slugish low-mid range was vastly different and the auto's shift points (which were changed with edit) were much meatier. Only thing I ever regretted was agreeing to have the premium fuel (98RON) table used to get a few extra kw. Used to cost me an arm and a leg filling up on Ultimate all the time.

Anyhow I've ranted long enough, my point being FIGURES SHMIGERS, its all how the car feels on the road.

Cheeers

Anyhow I've ranted long enough, my point being FIGURES SHMIGERS, its all how the car feels on the road.

Cheeers

Peak power figures don't even begin to tell the story anyway. What most greatly affects on-road feel is the size of the area under the torque curve, and the shape of that curve.

Dynos are great for comparing things back to back on the same car on the same day, or getting the lay of the land at a dyno day, and they're invaluable as tuning tools.

However there's not much point in using it for bragging rights unless you're comparing similar cars, run in the same gear, on the same make of dyno using identical inertia settings in similar environmentals.

Having said that, I mention my dyno obtained peak power figure in my signature. I fully appreciate the irony. ;)

One dyno told me my car had 161kws, the other said 139kws.

Its all about how quick you can get your car from a standstill to the finishline 400 metres away

Anyhow I've ranted long enough, my point being FIGURES SHMIGERS, its all how the car feels on the road.

Cheeers

Exactly :D

I'm guessing this is an attempt at sarcasm? :)



I don't think anyone is disputing this.



Who is judging anyones claims?

Also when we "heard", Narkus2 (I'm assuming) and myself are reffering to the thread posted here a while ago by a NZ memeber that works/worked at a Mitsubishi dealership. We "heard" it from him.

But this also backs up what we "heard"


So M4DDOG if your quoted post above was directed at me, hope that cleared it up for you.:D
I was aiming it at the magna intake questions, how some say a CAI makes a diff, and some say it doesn't.
And yeh, lol, i was trying to be sarcastic.

Hearing sh!t is one thing, knowing something is another lol. Unless you've been there and seen the proof with ur own eyes, dont judge someone else's claims ;).



The engines in the VR-X and GT produce 180kW, courtesy of induction tuning.
Source (http://www.nzherald.co.nz/category/story.cfm?c_id=65&ObjectID=10350301)


When it comes to the tailoring of the 6G75 to different markets, New Zealand even gets its own V6, with the performance-leading VRX and GT models offering 180kW of peak power in our showrooms instead of the usual 175. A less restrictive induction system is fitted to the NZ-spec 380 sports-variants, one incapable of passing Australia's stringent new drive-by noise test.
Source (http://stuff.co.nz/stuff/0,2106,3496445a2021,00.html)

Would you still like me to fly over there and SEE the difference lol

Source (http://www.nzherald.co.nz/category/story.cfm?c_id=65&ObjectID=10350301)


Source (http://stuff.co.nz/stuff/0,2106,3496445a2021,00.html)

Would you still like me to fly over there and SEE the difference lol
lol that's different, you did the research and made an educated decision. I'm tlaking more about the people who will say stuff without backup, then people will take it as fact and spread it like wildfire.
Cheers for the links, wonder why aussies cant get the 180kw then? Would be very interesting to see what is actually different with the NZ intake.

*EDIT*
Sorry actually read it. Failed the noise drive by test? That's just silly :P.

man, nowhere in the worlds are allow to have a high performence cars any more, too many laws and crap are govening them, its just like all the crappy monrioty getting up,

I was aiming it at the magna intake questions, how some say a CAI makes a diff, and some say it doesn't.
And yeh, lol, i was trying to be sarcastic.

Yeah I know what you mean, but if I remember correctly there have been at least two (2) members that did dyno runs with and without any sort of CAI installed. And from memory both experiences small but definite gains with the CAI. Not sure but I think Redav noticed a dyno proven increase, Redav can you confirm?

But having said that, it would come down tot he CAI design and how effective it was. Simply adding a pipe from the front bar and twisting it all around the engine to get top the air box isn't going to do much. :D

Yeah I know what you mean, but if I remember correctly there have been at least two (2) members that did dyno runs with and without any sort of CAI installed. And from memory both experiences small but definite gains with the CAI. Not sure but I think Redav noticed a dyno proven increase, Redav can you confirm?

I was one of those ppl. We did back to back tests while my car was on a dyno at Street Torque. Test 1 with my fully sik $15 PVC intake pipe to the airbox, test 2 with the factory snorkel, and test 3 with the PVC pipe again. Tests 1 and 3 were within 2hp of each other, test 2 was 8hp less or so. I made a post on it at the time with the exact numbers.

That was good enough for me to believe there is a (small) benefit with it.

I was one of those ppl. We did back to back tests while my car was on a dyno at Street Torque. Test 1 with my fully sik $15 PVC intake pipe to the airbox, test 2 with the factory snorkel, and test 3 with the PVC pipe again. Tests 1 and 3 were within 2hp of each other, test 2 was 8hp less or so. I made a post on it at the time with the exact numbers.

That was good enough for me to believe there is a (small) benefit with it.
And this is what I was talking about a couple of pages ago. It's not gospel, but 8hp = 6kW ATW. Which in turn could equal up to 10kW or so ATFW depending on drivetrain loss etc.

I was one of those ppl. We did back to back tests while my car was on a dyno at Street Torque. Test 1 with my fully sik $15 PVC intake pipe to the airbox, test 2 with the factory snorkel, and test 3 with the PVC pipe again. Tests 1 and 3 were within 2hp of each other, test 2 was 8hp less or so. I made a post on it at the time with the exact numbers.

That was good enough for me to believe there is a (small) benefit with it.

Ahh excellent, I knew my memory wasn't "that" bad. lol I havn't tested my setup on a dyno (currenttly PVC:D) but did notice a difference with it on and off (have switched between stock and CAI a fair few times).

Hmmm sounds interesting :think:.
Maybe i should give the CAI a go. Dont wanna cut up my intake though.

Hmmm sounds interesting :think:.
Maybe i should give the CAI a go. Dont wanna cut up my intake though.

No need to cut anything. I moulded one end of my PVC pipe to the shape of the oval inlet in the stock airbox so it fit up in the same way as the factory snorkel. You can also get pliable rubber plumbing adapters that you can use too which fit much easier.

No need to cut anything. I moulded one end of my PVC pipe to the shape of the oval inlet in the stock airbox so it fit up in the same way as the factory snorkel. You can also get pliable rubber plumbing adapters that you can use too which fit much easier.
And where did you lead it down to? Just behind the bumper?

And where did you lead it down to? Just behind the bumper?

Yep. Mine came down far enough that it was resting on the tray under the front of the engine bay. It wasn't hard up against the bumper though. Basically there's a gap down beside the battery box. It went straight down there, then turned 90 degrees at the bottom to point rougly forward.

Yep. Mine came down far enough that it was resting on the tray under the front of the engine bay. It wasn't hard up against the bumper though. Basically there's a gap down beside the battery box. It went straight down there, then turned 90 degrees at the bottom to point rougly forward.
Cool cheers for that, nice little project for me when i get bored :P.