Hi everyone,

My TE Magna has just done 90000 km, so i think its time to change the timing belt and water pump etc.
Email Mitsubishi yesterday and got a reply today as the following:

"Timing belt replacement including external drive belts $452
Timing belt replacement including cam seals and lower crank seal $604
Water pump replacement would be an additional $341.85 to either the above costs and timing belt tensioner and pully would be an additional $204.3 to the above costs

We do not recommend replacement of additional components unless they are found to be faulty, from previous repairs completed we very rarely need to replace tensioners or pumps etc."

i think $ 452 for timing belt and external drive belts is a pretty good price. :)
What do u guys think?
Also, should i just do the belts or do the cam seals and lower crank seal as well ?

I think i'm NOT going to do the tensioners or water pump as they said VERY RARELY need to be replaced. Also, very expensive for the water pump. :nuts: :nuts:

Thanks

I'm so sick of it! (Getting the timing belt replaced)

I get varying quotes about replacing the timing belt, and then theres mechanics telling me they won't touch it unless they replace everything (water pump, pulleys, bearings, seals, tensioner), then theres those who just quotes an absolutely high price, then theres many who don't use geniune Mitsu parts! Then theres those who lie about water pumps (for your info, GMB (makes OEM and aftermarket pumps also known as Powermax) makes two different quality water pumps, one expensive, one cheap, its so ridiculous because you just don't know which one you'll to get!)

/rant

oh and my plan was to do it myself until the $400 worth of special tools i needed.

you dont need special tools to change a timing belt or anything else around there.

Personally I'd be doing the water pump. If you're going to do it yourself, you're opening up the same area of your car, its pretty much combined labour then. Really, though, the same goes for getting a mechanic to do it. And unless you're really vigilant about your coolant, then I'd be replacing the water pump, as they do tend to get worn out, thats why its a good idea to replace it every 100 000kms.

It really all comes down to how much you want to spend upfront in preventative maintenance as opposed to getting the bill if and when something shtis itself and you HAVE to get it fixed. I'd rather the piece of mind personally.

Misti quoted me $1200 for:
90,000k service
Timing belt
Water Pump
All platnium plugs

Ended up going to G-Tek (he worked for Mitsi for years). $650

Half price. Like he said, there might be 5 timing belt manufacturers out there. Mitsi buys from one of them and puts their stamp on it and it becomes a genuine part. So really all the extra $550 is paying for is a apprentice at Mitsi to work on your car and their so called warranty which you get with normal mechanics anyway!

Flaming ripoff. And when they rang today to find out why I didnt go through them thats what I told them. She got of the was very apologetic! LOL Annoying though, cause thats my first log book entry that isnt a genuine Mitsi service center :doubt:

:rant:

Regarding the water pump, i've worked for Mitsi for 5 years and never replaced or seen someone replace one on a 3rd gen. I wouldnt bother doing the tensioner either unless its stuffed.

Mitsi prices are high because the labour rate is around $110 an hour. From memory the 3rd gen belts are around 2.5 hours alone.

Just had it done yesterday for a TJ 2000 3.5 wagon,

1 Timing belt
2 Drive belts
1 Waterpump
Flush and replace Coolant

plus Labour

We got a deal for 3 private vehicles to be booked in over the next 2 weeks

$590 total

Wanneroo Mitsubishi in Wangarra,
get a group together and ask for Steve, great service , great prices,
for all the perth members.

Cheers Chris

I would seriously consider replacing all the components while the timing belts are off. Speaking from an experiance with a 4g63, what was good at 100,000km (seals water pump tensioner pulleys), the oil seals were leaking by 120,000km which then caused the balancer belt to break at 160,000km and then the water pump started to leak shortly after. I was later told that I was lucky that the balancer belt didn't take out the cam belt. I have aslo seen a honda accord where the water pump wasn't changed at 100k service and it started to leak shortly after, and guess who had to fix it!!!!! (it was my bosses car):rant:

Mine is due shortly and I am going to buy all the components I need from 2wd parts (has all the belts, pumps etc with free delivery) and ask a mechanic to fit them. If not I'll ask my mate to help me, as he's pretty good with mechanical stuff anyway.

I believe there are cheaper ways to get a timing belt done and still have piece of mind, without having to fork out around 1g. Until my warranty ran out, I used to have to pay $200for a standard 10-15k service. At least Toyota washed and vacuumed my mum's car when she got it serviced.

Actually, the last service I got done at Mitsu was on a Saturday morning and as a result they were quite busy. When I dropped the car off, I told them could you put a screw into the plastic cover under the wipers because when I took it off to clean the leaves out I lost one of the screws. Sure no problem. Caught the bus home and then back again when the bloke said the car would be ready. Ended up waiting another 45 minutes in the dodgy service waiting area (Gosford) only for the bloke to go: 'Cars ready mate. Ok we've put a screw into that plastic shroud but we won't charge you for it because of the extra wait. Ok, so that's $200 for the service.'

Hit me for a $200 service then had I not been delayed, slugged me for however much more for a tiny (ONE!!!) screw to hold the shrouding on!

you dont need special tools to change a timing belt or anything else around there.


Let's see....

Crankshaft spacer (MD998769) $80 - Used so I can use my wrench to turn the crankshaft. Of course I could just pop the pulley bolt back on instead.

Tension pulley wrench (MD998767) $170 - Used along with a $200 torque wrench to get the correct (or near correct) tension. I guess I could omit that and check the tension with my finger, or buy the supposedly aftermarket tensioner tool for $80 somewhere in VIC.

Pulley holding pins x 2 (MD998715) $?? (est. $60 for the set) - Used on the camshaft pulley along with another tool (below) to rotate the camshaft.

End yoke holder (MD990767) $?? (est $80) - Used with the above tool to rotate the camshaft. Possibly another way to rotate the camshaft without these tools?

Total: ~ $390


Hmm and i've already omitted the tools required to take the crankshaft bolt off, essentially a mix of the starter motor and air wrench and a couple of extension bars to get that thing off.

So how does one do it without the special tools?

Right now, i've basically given up and going to get the darn thing replaced by someone else.

Let's see....

Crankshaft spacer (MD998769) $80 - Used so I can use my wrench to turn the crankshaft. Of course I could just pop the pulley bolt back on instead.

Tension pulley wrench (MD998767) $170 - Used along with a $200 torque wrench to get the correct (or near correct) tension. I guess I could omit that and check the tension with my finger, or buy the supposedly aftermarket tensioner tool for $80 somewhere in VIC.

Pulley holding pins x 2 (MD998715) $?? (est. $60 for the set) - Used on the camshaft pulley along with another tool (below) to rotate the camshaft.

End yoke holder (MD990767) $?? (est $80) - Used with the above tool to rotate the camshaft. Possibly another way to rotate the camshaft without these tools?

Total: ~ $390


Hmm and i've already omitted the tools required to take the crankshaft bolt off, essentially a mix of the starter motor and air wrench and a couple of extension bars to get that thing off.

So how does one do it without the special tools?

Right now, i've basically given up and going to get the darn thing replaced by someone else.

Put the pulley back on with the bolt to turn the crank.

I dont know what that 2nd tool is but the tensioner is automatic so there shouldnt be a tension problem.

Camshafts can be moved with a 17mm socket or spanner etc. Only if your removing the cam gears to do the seals do you require a tool for holding the cams still while you undo the bolt. I think thats the 3rd tool there.