Recently i have been having a problem where the car will turn on and then instantly stall back off. happens occasionally but enough to be a problem, some times she wont even tick over.
Took car to auto electrician and he goes the immobilizer isnt sending power to the injectors, something about a mitsu smart lock. Central locking is even engaging itself while im in the car, at one stage it locked me out of the car while running (had to get spare key from home to open it)
So i take it to mitsu early this morning telling em about it...
Get a call 3 hours later saying "your cars fine, put it on the computer no error messages and it starts every time."
Pick it up and go home, went out tonight and went to start it and she stalled twice then wouldnt tick over for 30mins. ended up disconnecting battery and reconnecting and it finally started.

Idea's? cause so far no one has helped....

Cheers,
Russell

I have the same problem, there was a post a while ago talking about a connector from the key barrel to immobiliser the corrodes. Cant remember more than that.

How old is your car battery?

The Mitsi OEM batteries have a habit of spluttering along like what you described (ie they appear okay, but reliability becomes an issue) before full death.

both greenmatt and dave_au's theorys are correct, it definately sounds immobiliser related.

apparently if the battery level is low, it can cause havoc! the ecu and bcm dont like anything under 10v, and will shut down, creating lots of fun when trying to crank the engine!

if that doesn't work, i'd have a look at getting the bcm replaced, i cant remember but it wasnt cheap, but not rediculously expensive either

Get your battery tested. Heaps of places do it for free and it will help you eliminate one of the most common causes of the erratic problems you are describing.

The immobilisor problem i had a while back was that i would turn the key and it just wouldnt start so i dont know if this is the same thing cause no stalling was happening but it cant help but try. When you look at your key barrel there is a black ring around it that ring checks with the key to see if its for you car, if not the immobilisor kicks in. If you get under your dash and follow the cable from the key barrel along there will be a plug just unplug this and re plug it. This fixed my problem but it sounds like a slightly different one.

She stalled on me again today trying to get to work...
Ended up getting the car towed back to mitsu where they have said that the immobilizer wasnt recieving the correct signal. Which i think is related to the barrel, the battery's fine.

Anyways its there over night and hopefully tomorrow they'll be able to fix the thing.
cheers

have had the same problem. But with my car is has been cause from an air leak between on some of the vaccum lines around the throttle body. Makes sense to me and the car started and ran

The exact same thing happened with my old TF took it to mitsu dealer turned out to be the antenna for the immoboliser or somthing in the key barrel only cost 90 bucks to have fixed:D

cittris has the same problem (apart from the one where his car locks itself) and the machanics told him as well that there is no error message. does you engine light run off when you leave the ignation on? when his plasy up he turns it off and turns the ignation on and waits for the engine light to turn off. if it turns off and dosnt come on again the car starts up fine.

but as for problem wise it could be faulty ECU?

this happened to my car too a week ago apart from the doors locking... ill check out that immobiliser cable thanks guys i was going to post a similar thread but it looks like my question has been answered! :D

I had the same problem.
Started at Xmas and gradually got worse as the cold weather started.

1 new battery and no further problems.

Mitsubishi dealer said that the battery goes low and the idle controller does not like it.

You start , the engine flares then revs just keep dropping.

Get the battery checked, if over 3 years old have it changed.

Spud.

Similar probs – with one key I need to wait for the engine symbol to go out and then it starts ok. Second key seems to have no probs – but I only discovered that fact last weekend so I need to monitor further.
I can understand that if battery voltage is low, the immobiliser might play up. But – once the engine has been started the alternator pushes ~14.5 V and it should be ok then… But some guys here say that it actually stalls after start. What’s happening!?:shock: