Hey people for those who arnt from QLD I put my car on the dyno yesterday to test out a little device that advances the timing in 3.5lt V6's. Well my power went from 166hp at the wheels to 177.7hp.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a372/sykomonkeeeee/DSCF0763.jpg

is this from this little box thing with 2 wires that you tap into your ECU some where? i read bout this on the mitsubishi club australia forums.

thats pretty good for $20

Mathew with one T :clap:

Mathew with one T :clap:

pfft.. two T's are better.

hmmm interesting
how does the car behave? any problems

i had alook at sporty's little toy tonight, its hardly noticable where his was installed, and he had a smoother throttle curve, and the bonus hp.

Keep in mind guys that you HAVE to run on premium with this mod.

I can put it back to normal and run regular to. All that's different is it's more powerfull. I reckon it's the best value mod you can do to a 3.5lt magna.

Keep in mind guys that you HAVE to run on premium with this mod.

I think you'll find there are alot of ppl that run premium regardless. At least with this mod they can get some benefit out of it.

Mathew with one T :clap:


Yep that's me Mathew with one T, spelt the champion way :D

whats the go with the mathew thing :nuts:

anyway do you have a pic of it and have you notice any other improvements

so how does this device actually fool the ECU? so this does wat the greddy does as far as adjusting the ignition timing?

and this is not for third gens, correct?

Ha! And people were sceptical about this mod! You cant do it they said! Well...http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=625

click the link in my sig, all questions are answered there.

Ha! And people were sceptical about this mod! You cant do it they said! Well...http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=625


Good work WHO9, yeah for all those who said NO :gtfo:

Good work WHO9, yeah for all those who said NO :gtfo:
Yep! :D Pity then that i have a TF isnt it...:cry:

Yep! :D Pity then that i have a TF isnt it...:cry:


3.5 conversion FTW :D

click the link in my sig, all questions are answered there.

i did already do that.

i did already do that.

Then you didnt read it competly, there's 3 pages, everythign is answered, it's a variable resistor that you add in a series circuit to a wire in your AFM, add resistance advance timing, take it away your car is stock again.



HERE'S THE THREAD TO BUY THEM FROM
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=783

Then you didnt read it competly, there's 3 pages, everythign is answered, it's a variable resistor that you add in a series circuit to a wire in your AFM, add resistance advance timing, take it away your car is stock again.



HERE'S THE THREAD TO BUY THEM FROM
http://www.mitsubishiclubaustralia.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=783
Dont try and educate people! They need to pull their head out of the sand before they will listen and take note of the results...

oh ok....i thought there was only one link. i read one of them not the other one. thanks.

i have a few questions


say if u upgraded ur cams from stocks to say ralliart cams or had other mods would,this effect how this works ?

Proberly greater gains, but look out for pinging so just data log it

i have a few questions


say if u upgraded ur cams from stocks to say ralliart cams or had other mods would,this effect how this works ?


I dunno, ralliart/380 cams lean out ur engine dont they? Well this leans out ur engine aswell, I've bone as far as I can without overly leaning out, but another device is being designed to richen up my engine so I can run more timing, just to see if there are anymore gains. But ralliarts are interested in the device time will tell

I dunno, ralliart/380 cams lean out ur engine dont they? Well this leans out ur engine aswell, I've bone as far as I can without overly leaning out, but another device is being designed to richen up my engine so I can run more timing, just to see if there are anymore gains. But ralliarts are interested in the device time will tell

what is the afr like now?

ok i ges i will have to pass on it then as my TH will have ralliart cams in next couple of weeks and i dont think an extra couple of kw's is worth the risk of going BANG ..

if u can find out info and show its safe i can be convinced then :P

I cant remember exactly, 14 something at full throttle, higher 14's I think, Redcliffe dyno said that's about where they tune there cars to, so yeah

ok i ges i will have to pass on it then as my TH will have ralliart cams in next couple of weeks and i dont think an extra couple of kw's is worth the risk of going BANG ..

if u can find out info and show its safe i can be convinced then :P


Well you'll be running the orig ECU hey, Ralliart cams and a TH ECU are a bit lean together arnt they? Jasons VRX said that I think. So keep an eye out on MCA, there's gonna be another trick comming to richen up the engine, like I said before.

u wouldnt b able to use this mod in conjuction with a greddy could u?

u wouldnt b able to use this mod in conjuction with a greddy could u?
Pretty sure you can tune a Greddy to use 98 RON.

Sports: Is the 11HP gain noticeable at all? In regular driving I mean, I guess you will find out at the drag strip soon enough.

i'm interested but i think i'll wait and see what the results are, make sure none of the engines go bang hehe.
Also do you expect to get better fuel economy? I'd hate to run premium all the time with no benefit in fuel economy.

Hmmm. Interesting. Normally when these resistor-in-line-with-airflow-sensor gadgets pop up ( every couple of months :badgrin: ) they are dismissed as crap.

Personally, I won't be trying to fool my engine into thinking it's receiving more or less air than it actually is, but if it works and is reliable go for it!! :D

Hmmm. Interesting. Normally when these resistor-in-line-with-airflow-sensor gadgets pop up ( every couple of months :badgrin: ) they are dismissed as crap.

Personally, I won't be trying to fool my engine into thinking it's receiving more or less air than it actually is, but if it works and is reliable go for it!! :D

This one runs off the barometric air pressure sensor, seems like its used a little differently to just the plain old afm.

but dont p[iggy back ecu's fool the facotry computer aswell? to a certain extent .. so its not really as bad as it sounds aslong as u dont have it pinging off its gut

I have made a comment on this in the MCA forums. Not that I have any personal interest in these myself but I beleive everyone should read this first before they make any decisions on purchasing one of these.

I could say nothing and maybe sell a few recondition engines out of this, but it is not in my nature to do that.

Please read on my comments on this, and feel free to discuss anything about this with me.

Yeah im a little worried about this thing.. Sounds a little dodgy.. really you need control over how you advance the timing.. Not just advance it..:)

Id be carefull you dont to engine damage..:)

Yeah im a little worried about this thing.. Sounds a little dodgy.. really you need control over how you advance the timing.. Not just advance it..:)

Id be carefull you dont to engine damage..:)

:stoopid:
Its something to be concerned about. if you don't kown what your doing and overadvance the timing you can stuff your engine up.

yeah thats whats concerning me aswell ...

however if u get this done on the dyno by professionals then it should be ok yeah ?

*EDIT* just read ur posts mitsi man i think u covered all bases

Well I thrash the **** through my car and time will tell hey, if something happens, well **** happens if not, great, I dont think it will, the dyno place I went to said the AFR is what they set it to when tuning cars anyway and I'm running optimax but if you dont want the extra power it's up to you. Spend $1500 on a piggyback computer instead and maby get the same gain as me, Ego got 5kw at the wheels, I've gained 8.7kw or something with this for $20 and it's more powerfull all the way through the rev range and smooths the power curve to.

Cheap, Reliable, Fast.

Pick any 2. You can never have all 3. :D

Cheap, Reliable, Fast.

Pick any 2. You can never have all 3. :D


Yeah if I could I'd take you for a ride and show you in person, it's $20 so it's cheap, nothing has happened to the engine and the Dyno joint concured that it's not risky where I've set it, so it's reliable, and with fast the proof is in the pudding.

Mitsiman is a business man who sells piggybacks and there is a product avaliable with the same results for 1/100th of the price so he's not gonna like it and is probably annoyed that he did'nt think of it first.

I'm gonna thrash it around like normal and nothing gonna happen adverse because the AFR is still safe and is a 'normal' after market spec of tune

Cheap, Reliable, Fast.

Pick any 2. You can never have all 3. :D

beg to differ to a certain extent ... get a lil worked gemini, escort, sprinter, sigma ... good suspension and it will beat alot of its much more powerful rivals round the track :P to a certain extent lol ...

sorry just being a smart *** i know what u meant and yes its true ...

back on topic:P

Yeah if I could I'd take you for a ride and show you in person, it's $20 so it's cheap, nothing has happened to the engine and the Dyno joint concured that it's not risky where I've set it, so it's reliable, and with fast the proof is in the pudding.

Mitsiman is a business man who sells piggybacks and there is a product avaliable with the same results for 1/100th of the price so he's not gonna like it and is probably annoyed that he did'nt think of it first.

I'm gonna thrash it around like normal and nothing gonna happen adverse because the AFR is still safe and is a 'normal' after market spec of tune

I'm not sure what mechanical and automotive engineering qualifications you've gathered during you're time on this earth, but I will be listening to Mitsiman's advice on this topic.

Believe me, I've had some unsatisfactory dealings with RPW in the past, and I'm no fan of the way he delivers service to his customers (seems to be getting better though!), but he is one of the unquestionable authorities on Magnas in this country.

If he says be careful, then...be very careful!! :shock:

Time will tell if this is a fully sick mod, like chopping your springs, or whether it's truly a cheap, reliable performance mod.

If your car lasts through the summer with 35+ temperatures , I'll be convinced. :badgrin:

You people are all missing the point, if it pings, I'll retard the timing, simple, the point to it is YOU'VE GOT EXTRA POWER WHEN YOU WANT IT, you can take it back to stock if you want. For $20 I've got a nice boost at the drags or sprints or all the time.

Oh and Mitsuman cant even read a manual regarding the AFM's wiring so I wont be taking any of his advice sorry.

lol now your starting to get personal - and that is not called for.

Let me clarify exactly what I am talking about one more time and hopefully people will see exactly what I am referring to.

The barometric pressure sensor does more than just alter ignition timing. It is also used as a baseline setting for the injector duty cycle ratings. Just ask teh poor buggers in the USA who have been using superhcargers pushing THROUGH the air flow meter and having lots of wonderful problems with fuel and ignition and check engine lights etc.

The point I am making that on a 100% power run on a dyno sure you can probably tune around the ignition timing to stop it pinging. But what happens when as someone said, its a hot day, theres more people in teh car and say you are at 70% throttle under high load. The car could be pinging and you woudl never know as 90% of detonation occurs below an audible level.

Its fine to say if its pinging, just wind it down or turn it off, but how will you know if its pinging if its not quite audible, you got your stereo pumping with your mates in the car etc.

I think you can see my drift.

Then theres the effect it has on the injector duty cycles - variations in the barometric pressure also effect the injector sizings as a baseline factor in the ECU before it starts applying correction ratios.

This is the main thing I am most concerned about as you could with large changes in atmospheric conditions, start to create a horrible scenario with the ecu.

Now the reality is that the majority of people who would consider this type of item, are not people who woudl be purchasing and bringing there vehicle to me to have it fitted. I don't lose or gain sales (Well depends on how many people break engines) with people using this item.

I am only making these comments because I know how an ECU system works. I know the mitsubishi manuel only refers to the Barometric pressure sensor in reference to ignition timing, I too have read my manuels. But it only has to advise in the manuel for fault sourcing and referencing. It is not goign to go into a full blown description of each inter related item and how it correlates to the next phase of tuning.

If you have had any experience in tuning aftermarket ECU like Haltech, Motec and piggy back systems like I have, you would have a much better understanding of how a modern day ECU works and all teh variables that are involved.

Anyway I am not going to say anymore on this subject at this time. I think I have said everything i need to. Its now the "Customers" choice of whether they wish to try it or not. It may in 90% of cases work out fine. But for those 10% that it doesn't, make sure you save.:confused:

Look everythign has a risk, nobody's saying that, you get cams made up for engines, there's a risk it's faulty, there's a risk in driving every damn day, you'll not the disclaimer by Magnus, he's aware that if taken to far there's the ability for damage to occur. I do belive you have a disclaimer on your website to? As does Haltech, Motec etc etc etc. I'm giving up telling the people on this site about this now, you'll all against it, you wont give it a try,

Okay thats enough

thread closed!!!