HI !

Don’t know if any of you do any airbrushing or know much about it, but I am hoping someone can help me out!
I need to get some good (thin) automotive paint to run through my airbrush. Any recommendations?? In the past I have been using dyes but this is not adequate for motorbikes/cars. The paint can’t be 2 thick or gluggy as it will clog the airbrush.
Any tips?
brands of paint, places to look?
Can you order premixed automotive paint just for A/B’s?
Is it possible to paint with dye then seal it with clear coat enamel?

Any help/Idea’s welcome

thanks

I've got a mate who knows all of that stuff, will see if I can remember to ask him.

that would be great

Appreciated

thanks

My Uncle used to do a bit of Airbrushing a while back and trying to remember what he told me, i think one method was he used plain old model car paint from the local hobby shop and the other was buying his stuff from the House Of Kolor
But I guess it all depends on the size of the project.

when i do airbrushing i use house of colour paint thinned out a fair bit

I want to get some Airbrushing done.. Can anyone help me or put me onto someone that can..?? Cheers:D

In the past I've known quite a few artists who have done custom painting on cars, motorbikes, helmets etc.

I got the impression that they would use just about any type of "automotive acrylic" paint they could get their hands on, thin it to a consistency similar to that of milk, filter it (a piece of stocking or coffee filter will do the trick) and spray. There is also a fairly new product on the market (last 5 years) which is a "fine art" waterbased acrylic style paint, but can be glossed over with a clear automotive acrylic and the quality of pigment is so good that it will withstand the elements and not fade at all, it's called scminke(sp?) aerocolor, but be warned - it isn't cheap.

You could also use 2pac, but most artists agree it isn't worth the hassle.

As with anything, you get what you pay for when it comes to paint, but I've always been taught that when it comes to painting - surface prep is more important than the type of paint used.

And the painter steps in.........

use basecoat paint available from any panel suppliers if in sydney theres kennys, v.g auto paints, the body shop, sydney automotive paints.... the list goes on

Hey Buddy,

I buy my paint from an auto paint shop. Cobra Colour (or try House of Kolor). They can mix it to match your car color code if required. It can be mixed to any manufacturer code or bases are available. Suggested mix ratio with thinner is 1.5 (thinner):1 (colour) to give you a smooth airbrushable consistency. THINNER IS ESSENTIAL (and a great way to clean your airbrush). The mix will only last up to 1/2 hour before the thinner evaporates and you kill your airbrush needle.

If you are working with any metallic colour - remember to give to airbrush bottle a shake between sprays as the metallic grain will tend to settle.

A dual action (air pressure and paint intesity) is what I use and great for 'blending' affects. If you are applying a uniform coat, start with a single action. Always draft first using scrap paper etc. to ensure you have a good clean flow before spraying your preferred surface. Once you have the hang of it... start looking around at various needle sizes and the affects they produce.

I am completely hooked and if you stick with it I am sure you will enjoy your new found abilities. The down side is that airbrushing takes a lot of preperation and application time is longer than you want when you are starting out. I have done a few motorbike helmets, my centre console (TJ VRX) and I have a mate with a Suzuki race glass body that will get a good going over when it warms up. Oh, yeah - application tempreture must be close to 20 degrees otherwise you WILL get orange peel (too cold) or excessive bleeding (too hot).

I usually find the best advice comes from those who sell and use suto paint everyday.

Hope this help Sport...

AJ
:cool: