Hi there, this is my first post on this great forum.

I have a pretty typical Magna wagon. It's a 92 model, 223,000ks on the clock and starting to get a bit worn out. After reading the forum posts here and talking to my mechanic I reckon I need the following work:

2 x CV shafts (quoted $600)
Valve seals
Chains replaced (and oil pump)
Auto Service
2 x rear shocks
Tune up
I also want an engine bay clean and a new stereo

After doing a lot of thinking about getting a new car I think I have decided to stick with the TR. Looking around I think it's the best car for me. I need the space for my windsurfing gear and I need the size for towing a medium sailboat. Mine doesn't seem to use as much petrol as some - I get 10.5 litres per 100k on pulp.

Anyway I now think I want to get her to 300,000k.

So what do you experts think? If I fix the above will I get another 3 yrs/75,000k out of her, or have I forgotten something? The body and paint are in great nick, as is the interior. I've never seen a car as durable and reliable as this one. In the nine years I've had her I've only had to replace the idle control unit and the radiator. Even if I spent 3,000 on her it's much cheaper than getting a loan and getting something newer.

http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/Magna1.jpg
I hate wheel covers.

Its good that you know a mechanic, those things can be costly. The valve stem seals can cost alot if done at a place like Midas,Kmart,Mitsubishi so I suggest to everyone find a trustworthy independent mechanic saves on parts and on labour $$$.

Some other things might also be on the out at that age (I can't comment unless I seen the vehicle) but the TPS and other things become worn down and not working as good as they use to, waterpump belt I think also might be worn. If your car has developed any idle issues etc - they can all be searched for ideas on here. Radiator hoses, better spark plugs, distributor cap & rotor all cheap parts that help. Maybe an injector cleanout, ultrasonic help maintain your good fuel ratio, air filter K&N?

If you get the rear shocks done, have you had the front ones done, they hold up the engine bay and help reduce the shock/bumps on the engine components so I reckon there more important then the back.

Other then that sounds like you got most things covered, other people might be able to think of some specific things.. good luck with it

Thanks for the advice. All good stuff.

Re chains, mine only rattle when the engine's idling in D with my foot on the brake. And only when the engine's hot. There's a fair bit of vibration too. When it's cold everything is silent. Any explanation for that? Bad or good?

I don't suppose anyone has a rough cost for chain replacemnt and oil pump job? Want to make sure I don't have them rattling again.

man, I miss the TR. Ultra reliable. I think it's a great decision restoring her to better condition!
Long live the 2nd gens :) :)

trust your magna... my dads--> sisters --> brothers ks, serviced but not treated nicely in between --> 370000:shock:

if you want to get rid of the rattle, i suggest a thicker oil.. Penrite HPR-30 works nicely

get the tranny service to extend the life of the auto box
valve seals, if you find alotta smoke starting to pour out of the exhaust Then get that fixed
as for the shockers, dont stress about those..
$600 for CV joints is a real rip off.. Try finding somewhere that can get it done for under $300

hope that helps mate..

Thanks for the advice. All good stuff.

Re chains, mine only rattle when the engine's idling in D with my foot on the brake. And only when the engine's hot. There's a fair bit of vibration too. When it's cold everything is silent. Any explanation for that? Bad or good?

I don't suppose anyone has a rough cost for chain replacemnt and oil pump job? Want to make sure I don't have them rattling again.

as for the vibration, have u checked the engine mounts? even if theres a small crack its means they've had it.

as for cost for timing chain replacement. most mechanics will do it for anywhere from $600-$1000 . i jsut had a ring around for prices the other day and most were between those numbers.
but u'll find that alot of the time it ur balance shaft chain that gets noisy first. so i recomend a balnce shaft removal kit at the same time if u want the rattle to saty away longer.
a timing cain kit off ebay goes for about $99 now thats everything u need like gaskets tentioners and bolts etc etc everything except the cogs.
and the balance shaft removal kit is about $30 off ebay as well. (ringwood auto parts abay store).
as for the oil pump a proper one from mistubushi will be really expensive somthing like 400-500 bucks. but there are after market ones for about 160 bucks and they'll do the job just as well.
u could always buy what u need and get ur mech to install it.

Wow! More great advice. Thanks!

Yeah, I will check those engine mounts. Maybe if I can reduce vibration at idle the tendency for the chains to rattle will be reduced. They don't rattle when the cars in neutral and there's no load on the engine and idling at about 900rpm.

I'll try the thicker oil thing too, see if that helps.

Apart from these thinsg the car runs great. Easy relaxed highway cruising and light on petrol (comparatively), Did I mention it's a 2.6?

The 2.6 is not the smoothest of engines, and tends to set up a harmonic vibration in the steering column on the TR/S models, so you might never get total "smoothness".
The CV/driveshaft price seems reasonable if it includes labour.
The timing chain should be replaced. It is not the balance shaft chain that causes the rattles, it is the cam chain. It simply stretches so far the hydraulic adjuster cannot compensate anymore. Thicker oil is a bandaid that will work very short term. You can see it's the cam chain by putting a timing light on teh engine at idle and watching the timing bouce around! I don't see a 2.6 engine dying much before 300,000kms with new chains and a few sensors here and there. If your idle speed motor hasn't gone yet, it will soon.
Valve stem seals must be done, gets annoying adding oil every 2000kms, and the resulting lower oil level adds to teh timing chain rattle.
No need to change out the oil pump, they don't wear, and reduced oil pressure is caused by wearing bearings, which results in looser bearing clearances, and lower oil pressure. The 2.6l engine's timing chain rattles are NOT caused by lack of oil pressure.
The TR/S are a very strong, reliable car, they actually score as high as Mercedes and BMW in crash ratings, so teh body structure is very solid. Rust does not seem to be a problem with them either.
If I was looking for a newer car, it would be another Magna, and we now have two TS Magnas, and I don't see a need to change that any time soon.
When the 2.6 in the sedan dies, I'll be fitting a 3 litre.
By the way, we have a 2.6 sedan and a 3.0 wagon, and both are the same colour!:redface:
I just bought the wagon after seeing the abuse my fiance's car has taken. They are strong vehicles.
I have the 2.6 at home today, chasing down a poor fuel economy issue, I suspect either O2 sensor or coolant sensor.


Regards, Andrew.

Thanks, another really helpful reply. My poor Magna has never had so much attention!

I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to do the chains, but it seems inevitable. typhoon, you seem to write with the voice of authority. Sounds like you're a mechanic?

I had to change the idle motor bout 5 years ago. All up cost was 400 dollars, which I thought was ludicrous at the time. Recently it started idling slowly and I have to admit I turned the throttle stop adjuster to bring it back up. I now know it's wrong but at the time I couldn't bear the thought of needing another 400 dollar job just to control idle speed. I know better now. Hopefully it can all get sorted out at tune-up time without another idle motor.

Thanks, another really helpful reply. My poor Magna has never had so much attention!

I was kind of hoping I wouldn't have to do the chains, but it seems inevitable. typhoon, you seem to write with the voice of authority. Sounds like you're a mechanic?

I had to change the idle motor bout 5 years ago. All up cost was 400 dollars, which I thought was ludicrous at the time. Recently it started idling slowly and I have to admit I turned the throttle stop adjuster to bring it back up. I now know it's wrong but at the time I couldn't bear the thought of needing another 400 dollar job just to control idle speed. I know better now. Hopefully it can all get sorted out at tune-up time without another idle motor.

Teh idle motors are around $120 from Nardek in Sydney. About 30 mins to fit.......genuine ones are around $2something.
I'm not a mechanic, I've just been working on my own various makes and models of cars for 22 years.
I recently did teh timing chain on our TS, it's an annoying, time consuming job, but it must be done for engine longevity and reliability. I wouldn't do it till they rattle consistently at hot idle, so you have some time up your sleeve. Our TS may have had teh chain rattle come on early due to poor maintenence(woman's car).
When you have the timing chain done, get your drive belts for alternator etc done, and don't forget to get the waterpump belt done! They never get checked and are known to just break. Ours did on a stinking hot 38 degree day in teh Blue mountains....boiled the engine dry, but the Magna kept on ticking after the belt was replaced. A truly strong engine the 2.6. We did have to replace the thermostat after that, thermostats tend to fail open when overheated seriously.
Also, the radiator neck (that the top hose attaches to) can and does break on these cars, whether it's due to vibration or people leaning on them I don't know. Something to keep an eye on, new radiators are $280 or so and are very easy to install. I always check ours before a long trip, just grab the neck and try to move it. A crack wil soon show up. They break under the hose end, around where the hose clamp is.
I like the Magnas, and front wheel drive for it's ease of maintenence.

Regards, Andrew.

Also, the radiator neck (that the top hose attaches to) can and does break on these cars, whether it's due to vibration or people leaning on them I don't know. Something to keep an eye on, new radiators are $280 or so and are very easy to install. I always check ours before a long trip, just grab the neck and try to move it. A crack wil soon show up. They break under the hose end, around where the hose clamp is.
I like the Magnas, and front wheel drive for it's ease of maintenence.



I've had that top tank pipe break and did boil the car. I was in a very bad place and couldn't stop. She just kept going 'till I got to a good spot and was able to get some water into her. Got a new tank fitted to the radiator and has been fine ever since.

Looking in the engine bay today and see that one of the exhaust manifold bolts has broken off. Would this be an easy fix or is it likely that escaping gasses have ruined the gasket?

I'm also wondering about the heatproofing atached to the underside of the bonnet. Mine's all ripped and falling apart. Would it be alright to just remove it all?

http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/Bolt.jpg
http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/Bonnet.jpg

If the manifold stud is broken then first the remainder of it will have to be unscrewed out of the head. Bear in mind that it is an aluminium head and easy to damage. Also steel into aluminium can lock in quite tightly and be hard to remove. Lots of CRC or Wd40 beforehand may help with this. Fitting a new stud should not be difficult after the old is removed provided the thread in the hole isn't damaged and you don't overtighten.

The coating under the bonnet is also to deaden sound.

Rob

The CV replacements should only cost you around $350 Fitted. If you have to replace the valve stem seals and timing chain, you won't get a lot of change out of $1000.00. I would go the whole gamut and replace the engine.
A fully rebuilt 2.6 is around $2600.00 fitted. That depends on where you live of course.
I have done the complete rebuild and it's the only way to go!!!
If you start to spend on bits and pieces now it will not stop!
Take my word for it, the outlay for a new engine is worth it. You get back that new car zip and reliability.
Don't forget to service the tranny with new filter, oil and band adjustment.
When you gor the car back after the new motor is installed, change the dizzy cap, rotor button, plug leads and plugs. This will give you an appreciable amount of punch. Ohh and reset the timing.

Thanks Moz!!!:cool: :cool:

Yes, the radiator can be a problem at the top radiator hose inlet. It is caused by overtightening the hose clamp. Watch for that one.
:cool:

Don't remove the deadening if you can help it. It is there for sound suppression, If you can find a new one at the wreckers thats in good nick I would go that way. If you drive without it the noise will drive you nuts.
:cool:

There's absolutely no need to replace an engine that needs new timing chains and valve stem seals. If oil pressure is good and tehre is no blowby, the engine is fime for many kns.
Christ, if I dropped $2600 on a $2600 car, I'd think of myself as a fool. I'd just buy a 3rd gen and be done with it......

Regards, Andrew.

Thats right Typhoon! Some people don't have the money and go the short cut route.
In my 40 years in automotive it always rings true..... if you short cut anything it will come back to haunt you.....if you buy cheap you'll buy twice!!
These cars have always been special to me from the first time I drove a new 1985 TM I was impressed with the incredibly smooth ride and the comfort it afforded. You can buy these cars for nothing now and re powered they will give you 150,000km without a hitch. From new there were always some strict rules.
Change the timing chain and guides before 130,000km.
While ya there do the head.
Buy a 5sp manual if you can.
Thanks
Moz!!:cool:

Ohh and the other thing is (and I think Magnabuff knows) the 2nd and 3rd Gen are nowhere near as smooth as the 1st gen and never will be. They got that one right and it hasn't been the same since.
:cool:

Ohh and the other thing is (and I think Magnabuff knows) the 2nd and 3rd Gen are nowhere near as smooth as the 1st gen and never will be. They got that one right and it hasn't been the same since.
:cool:
sorry but my car says differently, and so do other rides i've been in

replace ur whole engine:nuts: theres no need to go that far. u could do all this work by ur self if uve got a few mates and an engine crane and basic socket set , jack, axle stand and a torque wrench ,manual, and a spare weekend. u could always rent a engine crane for the week end if none of ur mates has one.
if u do all this work to the tr it will be close to feeling like new. also theres alot of ppl on this forum who can help if u get stuck seeing as a few have done all the work u mention before. and if u have common sense im sure u can pull it off. and there also a lot of write ups about all this work which ill post the link links at the end for you.

now as for work and prices and where to bo tain the parts needed.

greggories or hanes manual - $30 +ph from ebay

timing chain kit (thats everything except the cogs) -$99 off ebay at ringwood auto parts

degreaser for when the engine out doing the timing chian -$4 x2 cans any auto store

auto sevice kit ( gasket,filter and o-ring) -$25 any auto store

cv shafts - $160 each whole shaft from repco or the like

valve stem seals and whole engine gasket kit ( comes together) off ebay

coolant (also back flush with garden hose while it's empty) $30 any auto store

spark plugs x 4 - $30 any auto store

engine oil and filter - $50 any atuo store

air filter - $20 any auto store

fuel filter -$25 off eabay


now those prices are estimated but its around $700-$800
and here not hard jobs just fidley and a fair bit of labour. now just pull of ur bonnet and place the car on axle stands, then take out the whole engine and gear box at once then ur tyre's cv's and radiator. sit the engine and auto box on some old tyres . now seeing its all out get in ur engine bay and degrease it then clean it up. now all the mech parts are out give a service with the above and then re-intstall following the manual and asking question on here if ur not sure. now once thats all done u won't reconize it and ull know what been done and then be proun u save a wad of cash .
eg. new engine $2600 - or mechanic do it $1500-2000 -or do it ur self with mates $800-$1000

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34558
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34111 this one is still a 2.6 astron II motor like urs

but a manual will tell u pretty much all u need to know i just dont think u need to rplace the whole thing but the only my 2c.

as for the 1st gen being smoother well thats kinda silly dont take it bad but theres not a huge differnece in the 2.6 astron II in a 1990 tp a 2.6 astronII in the second generation apart from higher compresion and better heads and ports and and the plenum chamber ( bad spelling) and it ur also stating that "that some ppl dont have the money to go the short cut way"
qwell doing the work above will make the engine run new and save him about $1800 compared to buying a whole engine and or doing what it needs to it by himself.

Thanks for all the fantastic replys and debate!

I'd love to be confident enough to do some of this work myself. I think the CV Shafts and chains are too much for me, but the valves seals might be a goer. I put in a new water pump and replaced all cooling pipes on my old Sigma once, and I did build an entire sailing boat a few years ago so I'm not completely without manual skills...

For now however I have to decide what to get done first. I really need the tune up done because the vibrates so much when taking off , especially when the car is hot. It has idle problems too, which I have currently lashed up by moving the throttle stop screw (bad I know), which might make it harder for them to fix and more expensive - I don't know. I'm not looking forward to telling the mechanic.

Thing is both CV shafts need doing but I want to wait till I see whether the engine can be smoothed out with tuning. I'd hate to drop 600 bucks on shafts and more on a tune while its in the shop, only to find that it still runs rough.

Can CV shafts wait a little while? I can drive without making them click. Is it unsafe to run with clicking shafts?

I also notice now that there's a lot of clunking and rattling coming from the suspension over bumps. Think that bushes might need replacing too. Is that likely to cost much? It might be something I can do though. Maybe the clunking over bumps is the CV shafts?

Thanks

Thanks for all the fantastic replys and debate!

I'd love to be confident enough to do some of this work myself. I think the CV Shafts and chains are too much for me, but the valves seals might be a goer. I put in a new water pump and replaced all cooling pipes on my old Sigma once, and I did build an entire sailing boat a few years ago so I'm not completely without manual skills...

For now however I have to decide what to get done first. I really need the tune up done because the vibrates so much when taking off , especially when the car is hot. It has idle problems too, which I have currently lashed up by moving the throttle stop screw (bad I know), which might make it harder for them to fix and more expensive - I don't know. I'm not looking forward to telling the mechanic.

Thing is both CV shafts need doing but I want to wait till I see whether the engine can be smoothed out with tuning. I'd hate to drop 600 bucks on shafts and more on a tune while its in the shop, only to find that it still runs rough.

Can CV shafts wait a little while? I can drive without making them click. Is it unsafe to run with clicking shafts?

I also notice now that there's a lot of clunking and rattling coming from the suspension over bumps. Think that bushes might need replacing too. Is that likely to cost much? It might be something I can do though. Maybe the clunking over bumps is the CV shafts?

Thanks
this is a the way i did it to my magna.this is a complete shaft and cv joints per side eg from hub to auto transmission. u might need to replace the gear box seals so check them or get them check at the same time. if ure getting clicking i find its better to replace the whole side thats playing up instead of just a inner or outer joint. this way u an be sure that the cv's will be fine for a will as long as u look for cracks or splits in the boot and replace as soon as u find one in the futre. but thats just ongoing maintenence.

also if u get this sort of work done dont forget to do a wheel alignment.

ok the cv's are probably one of the easyest of those jobs except for the sevice and tune up.
if u just buy the cv's whole its piece of cake. u just need to undo the large nut in the middle of the hub then jack up the car and take off the raod wheel. now undo the 2 bolts at the end of the strut-steering knukle. now put a rag on the ground and pull the top of the hub towards u then drop down the control arm while pulling the hub towards you and the end of the cv will drop out of the hub. then get a friend to hold the hub for you and give the cv a few small tugs (go slow) and it will slide out of the gear box. now if the seals (2) on the gearbox where the shaft goes in are ok then grab the new cv and grease the splines of the shaft and the rubber seal with muti-purpose grease and make sure when the new one is slide back into the box the rubber seal dosen't fold inwards with the shaft so go abit slow. now slide the other end back into the hub with the help of a mate holding the hub. then reattach the 2 bolts through the steering knucle and bottom of strut. then put ur wheel back on and drop the car down. then re-tighten the big nut in the middle of the hub and put the pin back through the middle.


oh forgot to mention that the first part is for the drivers side. cos its not as long as the passenger side. the passenger side has another small drive shaft called the relay shaft, taking it out is the same as the first side but before you pull th first shaft u need to un bolt the relay shaft backet , its only a few bolts but u'll need a torch to see it better.

check ur bearing before doing this cos if theres any play ull probaly be up for a bearing kit off ebay. and if u check before doing the cv's and they need it done u can kiil to birds with one stone . and before the cv's are out drain the auto box and follw the manual or just ask and some one will scan it to show u how to repalce the gasket and filter. seeing as it just as easy as doing an engine oil filter change.

now about the clicking question if there making any noise ie. clicking there alredy past the point and need replacing. by the time the sound happens is cause the boot has spilt and is losing grease drying it out or letting dirst in making it click. u can still drive on'em for a while but the noise will get a lot worse and eventually break. i can under stand not wanting to attempt the timing chain but everything else is easy and u sound like your not new to doing the basics.


as for ur idle control motor and throttle postion sensor (tps) can also be easily done by ur self all u need is a miultimeter and a few mins. and it will idles better and make the auto shift firmmer once adjusted properly.

now suspenion should be about 200-250 for stardard spring front and back.
struts will be about 150-200 rear struts, 240-260 for front struts 44 for bump stop kit front and about the same for rear
now ive just changed all my front bushes for polyurethene ones they sell kit's for tr\ts as well on ebay for 60 bucks but u need a good mechanic to press the old one out and the new one in. i know cos a dodgy mechanic stuffed my control arms buy bending the out of shape so i then had to take it to a specialist to fix it. not fun i tell u.

oh and if u buy any cv's or get the mechanic too make sure that the cv's bought who ever works on it buys new one's not reconed ones. cos reconed one's are like ur old ones just with new ball bearings and cleaned then regreased.


http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34112
this link gives u an idea on how to adjust ur tps. i know this one is on the first gens but it gives u an idea and im sure if u ask someone with a second gen manual might scan the page u need. any way good luck . i hope u do as much as u can so u save ur pocket. and if u get into any problems just post ur questions and in sure ull get feedback

as for ur vibration that sound like ur engie mounts. theres four of them here a little tip on getting the most out of them cheaply. it will give u another year and a half before ulll need to change or at least give you time to buy new ones. thersproper polyurethene ones in the queenland section.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32670&highlight=diy

the real deal
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9490 i think they can be done for any model of magna.


opps bad words are edited now sorry

As others have said, complete replacement CVs and shafts fully installed with warranty shouldn't set you back more than $400 for both. This gives you new outer CVs and boots, new shafts, and new inner CVs and boots.

From my understanding, you could drive with clacking CVs almost indefinitely without anything catastrophic happening. That said, it's still not the best idea. But usually the idea of checking CV boots for cracks/splits is to catch it before any gunk starts getting into the CVs and begins to wear them out, which leads to having to replace the CV instead of just the boot. But if you are paying someone else to do it, it's just as cheap if not cheaper to completely replace the entire shaft et al, so if you can live with a clacking sound, then you could probably drive it for another year whilst saving up the dough.

Replacing a boot is pretty-much the same amount of work as replacing a CV, so for the cost of the CVs going on ebay, if you ever do it yourself, it may be worth replacing the CV as well. $40-odd for the lot, or $10-odd and the same work for the boot.

That probably rambled a bit, but can't be bothered restructuring!

if u just buy the cv's whole its piece off piss.By that he means driveshaft with CVs. Fitting a replacement CV to a driveshaft is an entirely different kettle of fishy swearingness.

just found cv's for tr\ts on ebay for $99 per side
200 for cv's if u do it ur self.

just found cv's for tr\ts on ebay for $99 per side
200 for cv's if u do it ur self.

I just saw those. Would something like that come with everything that you need - boots, clips etc?

I just got another quote from a mechanic near my work for 500 dollars charging 198 dollars per shaft plus 50 dollars per side for fitting them.

I'm taking my time on this - seeing if I can figure it all out. If i were to try it myself I'd need to get more tools like probably a floor jack and jack stands at least.

:cool: What a great response!!! That put the cat among the pidgeons! Hope you get a good idea of where to go with it!! As you can see everyone on here is passionate about their ride and all that goes with it!!

Good Luck with the 300,000k revival!:cool:

Where abouts in Qld are you located? There are numerous places in the Brisbane area that will fit shafts&CVs for around the $165-185-each mark.

Gotta disagree to disagree GoTrice- Did you get the chance to drive a TM when they were new? I did...and I've driven every model since including the 380....too much road noise..not even close!!!
:nuts: :cool:

ok here is one (driverside). its the complete cv eg boots clips drive shafts, THE WHOLE SIDE
u take out ur whole old cv and swap it with the new whole cv . it's not very hard and u can do it . were all here to help:D
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CV-SHAFT-FOR-MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-TR-TS-4CYL-R-H_W0QQitemZ320005160126QQihZ011QQcategoryZ10400QQc mdZViewItem


now this is the passenger side but without the little relay shaft but ur relay shaft shuold be ok , its mainly the first outer joint that goes not the relay shaft.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/CV-SHAFT-FOR-MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-TR-TS-4CYL-R-H_W0QQitemZ320005160126QQihZ011QQcategoryZ10400QQc mdZViewItem

now if u think u can't do it which im sure u can just buy them and give them to the mechanic then ur only paying for labour not parts and its cheaper if u buy them at least.

if u bought them and got the mech to put them in for 50 bucks then ur still saving 200.
as for tools ull need to do the job
basic jack (one that comes with ur car)
one axle stand ( just borow one)
socket set
ring spanner set
pliers (to take out locking pin off hub)
torque wrech can be handy but u dont have to have it.
couple of rocks for wheel chocks
spare time and common sence
no special tools needed just patience
u dont even need a manual cos we can walk u through it here

oh ps u dont have to do both sides at once. thats why i only said one axle stand. oh and the first rule when using a jack is never trust it. even if the cars sitting on axle stands i still leave the jack at the jacking piont and i also grab the spare wheel and put itunder the sill just incase the car slips off it will land on a steel wheel insted of ur legs. but dont only use the rim as protection i just use it as added safety.

Hmm, I have a copy of ther manual here. Looking at it and what you have posted smooth2, I reckon I'd better get under there and have a look at the situation. Maybe take a few photos etc. You never know, I might just give it a go. I'll see if I can get some car stands and get under there this weekend.

Would the wheel align get borked up by doing this?
Are reco CV shafts as good as new ones?

Hmm, I have a copy of ther manual here. Looking at it and what you have posted smooth2, I reckon I'd better get under there and have a look at the situation. Maybe take a few photos etc. You never know, I might just give it a go. I'll see if I can get some car stands and get under there this weekend.

Would the wheel align get borked up by doing this?
Are reco CV shafts as good as new ones?


yea i recon u should save ur self the money and do it. i only keep saying it cos im no mechanic but i love to work on cars and i did mine. but i also asked a lot of questions make sure i was doing it rght and it was all sweet.

now ud want to do a wheel alignment after cos it will put it out seeing as u have to undo the steering knukle to the bottom of the strut. and when ever u touch the suspenion it's a good idea to do a wheel alignment.

ok are reconed shafts as good as the new one's, short answer is the new ones will be better. those cv's i showed ya on ebay are reconed shafts with new cv joints, they will do u fine cos in most cases it the cv joint that wears not the acttual shaft. but with thats said u can still damage the shaft but it's not likely.

oh ps u said ud give the vale seal a go- well i recon that job is twice as hard as the cv's but thasts just me. if u do it urself just ask as many question here as u need and we'll do the best to guide u through it.

Good stuff!!
When you get to un-doing the drive shaft to wheel hub nut ...its ok.....then you gotta loosen the shaft spline from the the wheel hub!! Tight isn't it? either soft face mallet or hub puller will do the job!! I've never seen one of these come out without some degree of force!
If you have access to a puller ....great.. otherwise loosen the nut up over the end of the spline to within two and a half turns....strike the nut dead centre with a soft faced mallet!

If after two or three goes with this does not result in happiness... use a puller!!
Not too expensive and if you are going to do more repairs yourself it wiil prove a good buy in the long run!
Moz!!:cool:

hmmm mine cam out with out a hitch just had to undo the sway bay so the arm would drop alittle and then pull the top of the hub towards urself . well thats on my tp , a week before i tryed it on my tn staion wagon parts car and it was the same. also 3 months ago i changed my mates cv's in his tn and that was just as easy. maybe uve just had some pain in the neck magnas. but mine u changing the rear engine mount took me all week end and alot of swearing.

Yeah Smooth2! My TM CVs came out real easy and the same on the first set in the TS. Had a mates that were real tight and the same on his wifes car. He rang me for advice after he had destroyed the end of the nut and the thread, seeing he was discarding the shafts it was just a case of a new nut! They do vary i have found!:cool:

I had a look under car today to have a look at the CV shafts. It looks like I might give it a go, but have to get some stands and other tools first.

http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/driversside1.jpg http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/passide1.jpg

I have become worried about oil consumption though, as the level has gone down pretty quickly over the last two week and I am seeing a fair bit of smoke when I start the car. I think I'm going to get a compression test and report done this week to find out whether its valve seals or rings.

I took some pictures of my plugs. Can anyone tell anything about the condition of a motor by looking at them? All the plugs look like this:

http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/Plug.jpg http://www.uq.edu.au/~zziwilki/Pluga.jpg

WOW is all i can say. looks like its up for a good service (all filters and fluids)spark plugs,dizzy cap, rotor button.
if ur losing alot of oils and its blowing a fair bit of smoke then it sounds like the valve seals not the rings, be carfull cos it sounds like ur mech is trying to go for the most expensive jobs not the ones that really need doing. if ur not sure about any of this take ur car to a different mechanic and see what they say i bet if u do that ull get 2 completly different qutoes , cant hurt to get a second opinoin. just remeber that valve seals are a common thing to wear out on ur astron II engine. and there only like $3 per one and u need 8 . so id do them urself before doing the rings, not a hard job just fidely and laboursome.
also have u check to see if uve got any oil leaks around any of the engine gaskets, just a thought.

p.s how many klms has ur engine done?? will give me a better idea of what needs doing around the time of klms or what will need doing in the future.

The car's done 225,000. I agree it's best just to do the seals instead of worrying where the oil is coming from. It's ajob I'm keen on. But need to build some more confidence first.

So, I'm going to do some servicing this coming weekend:
Oil change and filter (trying a thicker oil to calm the chains down a bit)
Plugs
Diz cap
Rotor
Coolant change
Investigate faint wisps of steam coming from water pipe attached to inlet manifold
Replace hose from PCV to inlet
New water pump belt
Have a look at cleaning the throttle body (at least see what's involved)
General clean up

Each weekend she's getting a little better. It's a good feeling. Especially since I just recorded a best ever fuel consumption of 10.23 litres per 100 kays!!! On an 2.6 Auto.

Holidays coming up - do the CVs then.

those sparkies look like they've been running a little hot ie lean, might just be cause theyre old though, put the newy's in and check up on them after a few weeks. One set were whiter than that and crumbling changed them and performance didn't change so don't expect anything, well done on the fuel consumption awesome for an auto.

The car's done 225,000. I agree it's best just to do the seals instead of worrying where the oil is coming from. It's ajob I'm keen on. But need to build some more confidence first.

So, I'm going to do some servicing this coming weekend:
Oil change and filter (trying a thicker oil to calm the chains down a bit)
Plugs
Diz cap
Rotor
Coolant change
Investigate faint wisps of steam coming from water pipe attached to inlet manifold
Replace hose from PCV to inlet
New water pump belt
Have a look at cleaning the throttle body (at least see what's involved)
General clean up

Each weekend she's getting a little better. It's a good feeling. Especially since I just recorded a best ever fuel consumption of 10.23 litres per 100 kays!!! On an 2.6 Auto.

Holidays coming up - do the CVs then.

thats dam good fuel economy u got. just keep in mind when u do the water pump belt it should only deflect ( move up and down) 5-7mm any tighter and ull wear out the bearing quicker and any loser u might get alittle hot . so take it for a drive after doing the belt and give it another check after the drive.
also if ur going to change ur coolant(good idea evry 6-8months for astrons) take out ur radiator and turn it upside down and stick the garden hose in the end and backflush (opposite dierection) the radiator to get any crap out.
if u keep doing little by little every week end in a few months u should havie it running close to new again.
keep us updated on how u go and any questions or probs just ask . we're all here to help ya and guide u step by step if needed.

oh ps when u clean out ur throttle body, just remove it from the engine then grab some metho or grease and wax remover and wipe it out then it will evaporate leaving no residue. good luck with the service:D

Ok, I have done a bit of a service this weekend:

New Oil and filter (Penrite HPR30)
New coolant
New radiator cap
New sparkplugs
Removed air cleaner and sprayed a few good doses of carb cleaner into the throttle body (very grotty in there)

The Penrite oil has definitely quitened the motor. The chains still rattle when hot, but the volume is reduced by half or more. It will be interesting to see how long this effect lasts...

Next job will be Diz cap and rotor and another look into the throttle body with some more cleaner.