TR Manga SE
JVC CD Player (4*40Watt) only running stock speakers
600Watt(max) Kenwood amp running MTX Thunder6000 (12" Sub)

The Problem when i turn my tunes up it blows the clock fuse and when the clock fuse is blown the CD Player doesnt work...
The amp is just conected to the CD Player Power Supply (constant) which should run through the Radio Fuse i thought it was getting to much current thought it ... but why is the clock fuse blowing not the Radio Fuse..?

My Thoughts.
a) but a larger fuse in the Clock like a 20 (has a 10 now)
b) run the amp straight from the battery and just get a seperate fuse and mount it in the engine bay
(so its not interfearing with other elect stuff)

main question wouls a) work...? and why is the clock fuse blowing? its only when theres alot of bass

simple answer....

your drawing too much current from the clock fuse (not to mention what else is on that circuit) might not be only the clock.

Anyway, it is best to run the amp from it own wiring back to the battery.

DO NOT CHANGE THE FUSE TO ANYTHING HIGHER.

I had the same thing in my TR. You have to replace the (2amp i think) fuse with a 10amp fuse.

why is the clock fuse blowing???(it also has the door lamps running of it)it should be running through the radio fuse...

It would sound as if someone has done a dodgy install, the AMP should NEVER be run off anything but the batter, they can draw up to 100AMPS!

Best to re run the wire to the battery.

possibilities;

dogdy f*** installed amp/radio to the clock permenent b+
insane amounts off bass are causing the b+ of the clock to earth out (blowing the fuse)
your car is just plain crap and should be given to the wreckers

If your running your amp off the cd player power supply how thick is the cable? I cant see it being any thicker than standard speaker cable. If so it cant be doing your amp any good.

Best thing to do is run the power from the amp straight to the battery with at least a 150amp circuit breaker somewhere close to the battery, the best power wire to use is 4ga. this should give your amp more than enough power to run the amp without blowing any fuse's

hehe yeah that little pissy wire supplying power to your CD player aint enough to power an amp!!! thats why its blowing....the wire has to be able to carry the power....run some 4ga direct from the battery...should notice and improvemnt on sound aswell

your car is just plain crap and should be given to the wreckers

lol come of it man... its getting me places...

wheres the best place to go though the firewall??? its a sunday job this one

hmmm i had to run some 4ga through my mates el falcon, theres a hole that has a wire running through from the engine bay to the inside of the car. its on the drivers side right in the corner under a bit of metal. its hard to see and it very tight in the space where you have to run the wire through. you have to cut out some of the carpet inside the car where the hole is always you'll have trouble running the wire through. inside the car the hole is right up in the top corner just above the accelerator pedal just behind the fuse box. hope this helps as it not to easy getting the wire through the fire wall

sorry about it man was jus kiddin

try upgrading the amp wire see if it helps, cant do any harm anyways

yeah taking the another amp out of my ford and ill just use its setup (straight to the battery) it did have both these amps running of it so wires fine...how good are magna alternators? :-P

The amp is just conected to the CD Player Power Supply (constant) which should run through the Radio Fuse...
Dude...

This is asking for trouble...

Do the job right and your car won't burn to the ground.

You'll need a 4 or 8 gauge (preferably 4) running from the battery to the amp. with a fuse close to the battery with the same rating as the total of the fuses on your amp.

Ground your amp to the chassis using the same or thicker gauge. Make sure you go through a grommet in the firewall.

how good are magna alternators? :-P
You will never need to upgrade your altenator, I run 3kw and the stock altenator is fine

Peace

Tim

You will never need to upgrade your altenator, I run 3kw and the stock altenator is fine

Peace

Tim
Not entirely true, the alternator in the 3rd gens is brilliant, but in the 4 cylinder 2nd gens the alternator is pov, i had the same system i have now and with any volume the headlights would dim etc., same system on my TJII and i crank it and not one loss of power etc.
I just bought a heavy duty alternator for the TR and all was good :).

Not entirely true, the alternator in the 3rd gens is brilliant, but in the 4 cylinder 2nd gens the alternator is pov, i had the same system i have now and with any volume the headlights would dim etc., same system on my TJII and i crank it and not one loss of power etc.
I just bought a heavy duty alternator for the TR and all was good :).

how much did the heavy duty alternator cost? i have all proper earths etc and still my lights dim..

']how much did the heavy duty alternator cost? i have all proper earths etc and still my lights dim..
Wasn't much at all, standard replacement was about $120 and heavy duty cost me $170, that's for a reconditioned one though with 2 year warranty.

*EDIT*
That was for the 4 cylinder though, v6 alternator might be better? i dunno.

Don't increase the fuse size. It is designed to protect the wiring from fault and over current. If the wire isn't protected, it will overheat and possibly melt and ignite.

The battery connection to the headunit seems to be used for the main audio supply and presets in the units I have connected recently. The ignition switch supply is used to turn the radio on and off with the ignition key. (I have verified this by measurement.)

Figure out how much current the combined audio connected will draw, add a factor of safety and buy cable to withstand the calculated current. Size the fuse to be under the current rating of the wire, once again, use a safety factor to ensure the fuse blows before the wire insulation melts.

Put the fuse in the line at the battery to provide protection for the wire. If you are branching wires off the one from the battery (maybe for the amp and the headunit), install an additional fuse for each wire you take off the wire from the battery if the branch wire size is smaller.

Ken

all done ran it from the battery on 8 gauge wire...

Not entirely true, the alternator in the 3rd gens is brilliant, but in the 4 cylinder 2nd gens the alternator is pov, i had the same system i have now and with any volume the headlights would dim etc., same system on my TJII and i crank it and not one loss of power etc.
I just bought a heavy duty alternator for the TR and all was good :).

my lights dim... ALOT... and i only got stock alternator on.

my lights dim... ALOT... and i only got stock alternator on.
yea my interior lights dim alot but headlights are still bright as ever... i always get flashed because ppl think my highbeams are on.. but its payback for the crappy low beams i put up with in the ford

yea my interior lights dim alot but headlights are still bright as ever... i always get flashed because ppl think my highbeams are on.. but its payback for the crappy low beams i put up with in the ford

Run a few earths from the chassis back to the - terminal....that should reduce some headlight dimming