Does the black power steering support bracket have to come off when I remove the water pump? I have the water pump unbolted... but there is a bolt in the back of the water pump rear housing which holds the front to it that I cant get to. I think if I undo the bolts in the middle holding the metal pipe in then I can angle that pipe upwards and get the water pump out??? I am really lost here... I can provide pics if need be, but yea... it's kinda one of those things which seem like people can give advice on only if they have done it before.

Also to get the cam belt off... do I have to remove the "drive pulley?".. the thing on the end of the crank... or is there a way I can just remove the sump or something? I wanted to fix as many gaskets and things as possible, so a new sump gasket would be ok to do. I am planning to do something with the area where the air conditioning compressor was also... supercharger! But will probably only do it if I can do it easily... with some form of stock second hand charger... aftermarket ones are too expensive to be worth it on my magna. I am seriously considering just selling the car to scrap metal right now, it's pissing me off... cost me $3000 so far and I still have to install carpet, some mags, paint it, buy new amps... maybe replace my subs too.. and fix the steering rack and tie rod ends.

Yes, you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley and the timing belt.

I took the bolts out of the mount for the power steering but left it connected to the hoses and pipes when I changed the timing belt. Can't say for sure about when you do the water pump though.

Rob

Does the black power steering support bracket have to come off when I remove the water pump? I have the water pump unbolted... but there is a bolt in the back of the water pump rear housing which holds the front to it that I cant get to. I think if I undo the bolts in the middle holding the metal pipe in then I can angle that pipe upwards and get the water pump out??? I am really lost here... I can provide pics if need be, but yea... it's kinda one of those things which seem like people can give advice on only if they have done it before.

Also to get the cam belt off... do I have to remove the "drive pulley?".. the thing on the end of the crank... or is there a way I can just remove the sump or something? I wanted to fix as many gaskets and things as possible, so a new sump gasket would be ok to do. I am planning to do something with the area where the air conditioning compressor was also... supercharger! But will probably only do it if I can do it easily... with some form of stock second hand charger... aftermarket ones are too expensive to be worth it on my magna. I am seriously considering just selling the car to scrap metal right now, it's pissing me off... cost me $3000 so far and I still have to install carpet, some mags, paint it, buy new amps... maybe replace my subs too.. and fix the steering rack and tie rod ends.

firstly, is the engine in the car or not?

if you are talking about the black power steering bracket that is on the block that holds the power steering pulley, then no you dont have to. i managed not to remove it but it was tricky getting the PS Pump out. although i think you will need to remove the PS resivoir.

also, why do you want to remove the sump?

Official Workshop manual says:

1. Disconnect battery.
2. Remove radiator cap.
3. Disconnect bottom radiator hose at radiator and drain the cooling system.
4. remove the timing belt, refer to Group 11 section 7 for removal procedure.
5. remove water pump mounting bolts, refer Fig 7.
6. Twist and pupp water pump to disconnect pump from inlet water pipe and O ring.
7. Remove air intake hose, disconnect heater hose, water hoses and bottom radiator hose from inlet water pipe.
8. Remove inlet water pipe retaining bracket bolts and remove inlet water pipe.

Hope that helps.

Rob

Just wanted to remove the sump to replace the gasket while the car is off the road. Can't hurt it, it's probably gone 220k's with the same one... and there is a bit of oil/grease build up down under there.

Thanks Rob_D im reading the manual now... I think I might have it sussed, I'll be checking it out in the morning.



The motor is in the car...
The water pump is all loose at the moment and wanting to come out... but I think I have to undo the bolts which hold the middle of the pipe which comes off the back of it down? Then the pipe angles up and the waterpump slides out? Anyway here is some more pics I took of it a couple days ago.

IMGA0588.JPG shows the middle bracket thingy which I'm talking about.
IMGA0625.JPG shows the engine at the moment.

Also when I remove the crankshaft pulley... there is a chance I'll move the crank and mess up the engine timing... is this inevitable? If it is, I have no idea about how to set it back to normal, and if it's going to do that, I should just remove the heads too and do them do you think? Ill go check it out, but I'm sure lumpier cams, new valves and whatever else is in the heads will make the magna rev faster? Its basically stock internals right now with 2.5" exhaust and no intake... but I'll put a pod filter on there before it goes back on the road.

I am also looking into supercharging it at the moment, but at $3k for a new Eaton M90 it's definately not worth it. I have a massive area where the air cond went and its begging me to fill it up. I figure I have another $2-3k to spend on the magna with interior carpet, engine repairs/mods, paint and rims so I might as well see what I can get for a little more.

Sump does not have a gasket, it is sealed with permatex.

I usually remove the bracket as it makes it easier to get to the pump bolts

DO NOT lift the pipe or you will have leakes later, pull the pump slightly forward and then twist.

Use rubber grease on the new "O" ring as well

No offense but if you are asking questions about moving the crank and setting timing, you should have the car taken to a mechanic who knows how to do this, 2 teeth on the timing can mean no valves after.....

the timing will be all over the place as soon as you remove the timing belt. you cant help it.

the easiest way to sort this out is to take the dizzy cap off and locate TCD.

once youve done that, and you remove the timing belt the cams will spin out of timing. just take note of which way the both spin and roughly how far they did also. that way you can put them back into place as you refit the new belt.
just be sure not to move the crank pulley or else you will move piston #1 from TDC. if you have already done this dont panic because all u need is a piece of wire in the spark plug hole and feel when piston #1 is at the top of its stroke.



also, mechanic at mits recommended to use vasoline on the new rubber oring. not sure if the manual says the same. i used vaso and its fine. :)

and be sure that the water bar is pressed into the back of the water pump correctly. otherwise itl just leak again.

i changed my water pump with the inlet manifold still on, plus ive never fixed a water pump so its not that hard.

Hey madmagna, no offense taken... my uncle is a retired mechanic, so I can ask him things... but he worked for Ford, so it's easier to ask Mitsubishi people. He will probably set the timing for me. He explained how it worked and I have a decent idea, but not the confidence to blow my car up =)

slyts6 I thought the pipe was connected to the back of it permanently! Thats why I took off the manifold. It's good though... I can clean out all the black crap from the intake system and put in new gaskets for that peace of mind. I feel inclined to do something with the engine now that I've done a bit of work to it though. Have thought about DOHC, but too much work for what it's worth... id rather do some form of small turbocharger install.

Yea I might lube up the O ring too with some vaseline... sounds like a plan.


DO NOT lift the pipe or you will have leakes later, pull the pump slightly forward and then twist.

I did lift the pipe... what's that going to do? I have a brand new rear housing and front housing with internals... just the pipe is old. Would it have stuffed up the pipe? Going to ring mitsubishi now to find out what a new pipe is worth... cooling system is important, I guess I really should just buy it new anyway.

Welshpool, Perth WA.
Mitsubishi - Rear water pump pipe - $164.50

Anyway, the pipe I have seems to be fine, and I can't really see how it would get bent by moving it slightly up or down... Ah well, what I'll do is replace the O-ring, and then if it leaks I can replace the O ring and pipe easy enough with the motor put together again.

I don't know why but the Mits. workshop Manual says to only lubricate the O ring with water.

Rob

I downloaded that manual... and now its lost on my hard drive. Lubricating it with water makes sense... I'll probably just do it that way.

If you use water that is fine, rubber grease will help both lubricate it and protect it so it is better that way.

Do not take notice if the distrubutor as it is only connected to one shaft. there are locating marks on the crank and both cam pulleys. Both pulleys need to be removed from the cams to replace the seals and also make sure you replace the blind seal at the other end. While at it also replace the stem seals as you are 95% there anyway.

If the shaft moves, either shaft, they all have locating marks so they are easy to re fit. Fit the belt to the crank, to the rear pulley, the front pulley and then over the water pump. You will need to adjust the length to the front to account for the slack however the water pump pully is easy to slip the belt over with out damaging it. the belt shoudl be tight from the crank to the cam, under the pump to the front pully, then the temsionor takes the slack. Once on you need to (without the spark plugs in) rotate the engine by had twice with the tensioner losse to locate the belt and. tighten the tensioner without using extra force on the tensioner

thats right madmagna. spot on.

although changing the stem seals can be risky without actually removing the heads.

1:you have the chance to drop a valve, therefore the head will need to be removed to get it out.

2: if no valves are dropped, there is the big chance the valves wont sit right, causing a huge lack of compression in the cylinder.

thats right madmagna. spot on.

although changing the stem seals can be risky without actually removing the heads.

1:you have the chance to drop a valve, therefore the head will need to be removed to get it out.

2: if no valves are dropped, there is the big chance the valves wont sit right, causing a huge lack of compression in the cylinder.

Can you please quantify the term "big chance" and clarify if you mean Big Chance in the term of "no chance" or "huge risk"?

If the piston is at TDC then there is no risk. IF you loose a valve, then you have a "huge" hole in your piston which means that the seating of the valve is really meaningless. With the seating, a valve tends to rotate slightly when the engine is running, the seating is no problem and has not been an issue in the hundreds of these that I have done over the years.

by losing a valve i meant it gets dropped in the cylinder head/ block.

ok, so the valves actually rotate a tad when the engine is running do they...hmm.
im just trying to work out the best way to change the valve seals coz mine really need doing :(

so when you have the compressed air in the cylinder and are replacing the seals, do you have to turn the crank to find TDC on each piston?