View Full Version : DIY: Wheel Alignment?
Ant0ne
22-08-2006, 07:56 AM
Whats exactly involved and is it posible to do it yourself?
Had new tyres put on 2 days ago, and they are noticibly starting to wear from the outerside.
Ant0ne
22-08-2006, 01:23 PM
check inflation pressure and balance
DIY toe in adjustment
you mark the centre line of the front tyres
the sterring wheel has to be straight ahead and make sure it stays there
as flat a concrete surface as you can find
(between the centre lines you marked)
measure for the front distance of the front tyres then the back distance of the front tyres
then undo the tierod locking nut
turn either sides tie rod as required till the measurments are almost the same front and back of the front tyres
the front measurment has to be a bit more then the back of the front tyre +or - 1 mm 0r 2mm
retighten tierod locking nut
this will do till you get booked into a proffesional .
lol in english please, i dont think i understood anything there hahah.
Only reason i wanna learn to do this, is when i get into a drift car, the wheels are going to be out all the time, and i could save time and money realigning it myself.
spud100
22-08-2006, 02:15 PM
Best, very accurate way I have used.
Loosen front wheel nuts
Jack the car up, chock safely
Remove wheels
Lower car onto a pair of axle stands so that the front suspension is compressed again.
Get 2 very straight pieces of metal and clamp onto the discs, point the metal pieces straight ahead, they need to be about a metre long.
Place 2 marks on the top side of each piece of metal, Marks should be at least 600 mm apart the same distance apart on each one and the first mark the same distance from each disc.
Make sure that the steering wheel is in the dead ahead position.
Measure between the first marks, then measure between the second marks. 2) - 1) if -ve is Toe-in, if +ve is Toe out.
If your tyres are scrubbing on the outside then you have Toe-in.
Try adjusting to almost 0 Toe in. Also check the specs for your car.
Adjustment - use TWO spanners to slacken the lock nut on each tie rod end, this is these are the threaded rods that go from the sterring rack to the arm sticking back from the hub assembly.
You should also brush the exposed threads with a wire brush, if everything is reasonably clean then you can twist the threaded portion to chenge the tie rod length quite easily.
Hopt that this helps.
I used this on my AWD when i fitted a camber kit and front sway bay. Tyres are now almost worn out and there is about 0.5 mm tread difference side to side max.
Gerry
Magnette
22-08-2006, 08:45 PM
umm... there are 3 dimensions to your steering adjustment.
"Toe In/Out" is just one of them... toe in is like being pigeon toed
(front of tyre points inward towards numberplate) or 'snowplow'.
Tyre wearing out on inner or outer edge is due to Camber,
drift cars use huge amts of -ve camber - top of tyre leans inward.
There's also Castor, that's the axis of the steering effort - think
like the rake on a bike. Castor gives stablity in a straight line.
Leave adjustment to the pros imho... :)
smooth2
22-08-2006, 10:56 PM
:stoopid:
u can do the toe in-out urself very easyliy but as for the other two id leave then to the proffessionalls. take it to fulcrum suspenion and they will put it on a table that wiil do all 4 wheels at once. and u'll get a print out of what it was like when u first brought it too em then it will tell u the final mesurment after it's been adjusted. for $50 its worth getting it done right unless u work in that department then i guess u wouldn't be asking here if u worked in that same line of work.
RoGuE_StreaK
23-08-2006, 05:40 AM
rake on a bikeIs that the sequel to snakes on a plane?:D :dancin:
ts3.0
23-08-2006, 07:20 AM
hahaha i thought it was sharks on a train
Satan
23-08-2006, 07:24 AM
:stoopid: ROFLMAO!!!
Killbilly
23-08-2006, 07:43 AM
:stoopid:
u can do the toe in-out urself very easyliy but as for the other two id leave then to the proffessionalls. take it to fulcrum suspenion and they will put it on a table that wiil do all 4 wheels at once. and u'll get a print out of what it was like when u first brought it too em then it will tell u the final mesurment after it's been adjusted. for $50 its worth getting it done right unless u work in that department then i guess u wouldn't be asking here if u worked in that same line of work.
I thought magna's don't have the facility for 4 wheel alignment?
smooth2
23-08-2006, 08:05 AM
well fulcrum suspenion did a 4 wheel alingment on my tp so i'm sure it can be dones on a second gen. they put mt tp a a computerized table that measures the wheel alingment and tells the operator how much to adjust then prints it all out so u know what it was like before than after they worked on it.
i had a dogdy mechanic stuff up installing ball joints (also bent my control arms), i took it to fulcrum and they redid his work and set the castor,camber and toe in-out for the front and back.
this is a copy of the wheel alingment:D
http://img243.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mearusrementsbd5.jpg
Ant0ne
23-08-2006, 01:35 PM
where is fulcrum located?
gold coast?
TecoDaN
23-08-2006, 02:11 PM
I thought magna's don't have the facility for 4 wheel alignment?
You're right for rear beam axle owners (thats 2nd gens and all wagons), but I'm not sure about those with IRS.
On our Magna's, the only real adjustment you can make is the toe adjustment. Castor and camber are both static and can't be adjusted, as to why you only need a 2 wheel alignment, a 4 wheel alignment is a waste of money, of course a lot of people don't know this and think 4 wheel alignment is better, not realising what it really means.
Since the suspension components are pretty much static apart from toe control, it just means Mitsubishi has set the min/max specifications for these parameters (which could mean from very precise to close to verging on to outside the specs from the factory), and if an adjustment is outside the specs, then it means a component will need to be replaced as a whole, like a control arm.
smooth2
23-08-2006, 05:20 PM
:D
where is fulcrum located?
gold coast?
australia wide. it's the only place i wouldn't hesitate taking my magna. they have always been straight with me and treated my maggie good. not like the other dodgy one i went to first , even though he was apparently really good. dosent matter fulcrum fixed his mistakes
magnamechanic
23-08-2006, 06:52 PM
wheel aligment cost about $45 why would you go to all that effort ..least if the tyres wear unevenly you can take it back to the wheel aligner and say FIX IT
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