Do I really need the two tools to do this job? (The ones in the manual) I'm sure I've done this on other cars with just a socket and wedge before... I just tried it then with a massive shifter after removing the plastic guarding and from under the car which is way easier and it really didn't budge at all. Apparently that bolt is 120+nm torqued in there hard so how am I going to get it out?

Also... does it come out anti-clockwise?!~

This is for a 94 TR 6G72 btw.


The engine is half in pieces everywhere at the moment, and I wanted to change this belt... the cam and cranks are out of alignment at the moment... and would turning it over stuff up the engine? There is no fuel in the rail or anything like that, it has been off for a few weeks now... and there is no dizzy cap on it either atm. While I'm at it I should ask if I can do it with the intake manifold off too =P

I cant see you getting it off without either a) the right tools b) a rattle gun or c) putting a big bar on it and cranking the motor (cant obviously with the engine half apart).

Good luck anyway

I got the nut undone with a long socket bar and a large screw driver jambed through a hole in the pulley.

Can't remember for sure but I think I had to use a puller to get the pulley off though.

Yes it undoes anticlockwise.

Rob

lock the flywheel with a screwdriver or lever then undo the bolt anticlock wise

if the pully is stuck on the crank put the bolt back in 3/4 the way ,,place a lever behind the pully (without dammaging the front cover) place some weight on the lever while pulling on lever give the bolt a tap with a hammer.

hope this helps

Thanks alot for the info... Tommorrow night the old boy is going to take me shopping. I need an air compressor to paint the car, so Supercheap has a 2.5hp, 40L compressor kit with heaps of accessories for just over $150 I think it was, so I'll just wait and use a rattle gun =)

And yea, I tried wedging the pulley so it wouldn't move and undo'ing it... but I only had like 40cm's of leverage... need a bigger bar or some pipe. But yea, rattle gun should do the trick.

**HEADS UP** your 40 dollar supercheap rattle guns will not get those bolts off

You need a quality rattle gun and 6 side sockets, preferably hightensile/shatter proof ones.

They are absolute pricks to get off on the best of motors, and the best thing I have found is to drive to a mechanic and ahve them loosen it then tighten it again then drive home so its at least cracked the 10 year siezed seal.

The other way is to jam it against some steering or something solid and key the motor over with no ignition. I have seen that not work just as often as it does though!

I hate crank pulleys. Then you should see the pricks which need a press just to get them off!! :rant:

damn right TC!! those supercheap rattle guns simply dont have the balls to get that off. believe me, the nut that hold the crank pully on is tighter than a nuns nasty!!!

My uncle was a mechanic for Ford for like 30 years or so... he has all good quality Sidchrome tools at his place... I'm sure he would have a decent quality rattle gun, would a Supercheap 2.5hp compressor power a good quality rattle gun?

Is there any other way to remove the cambelt? I noticed there is a housing under the crank there, I haven't looked at it too much but I will tommorrow... can I just remove the sump or something around there and do it? I wouldn't mind resealing the sump while I'm down there actually.

yeah we jammed the flywheel up (take the starter motor out)

then get a long lever socket bar and stand on it