I moved the fuse box over today... installing a pod into just in front of the fuse box this week, relocating the battery over to the other side of the car, and I guess I have to run a radiator overflow around there somewhere too. I still have to work out where to put the windscreen wiper squirter reservoir. I'll probably put it next to the pod box I make.

I am gettin the old man to cut me some plates to fit at the top of the front and rear shock towers so I can make some custom strut braces too. Has anyone done any mods to the wiring colour in their engine bays with red tape around the harness? I just covered all the wires with black tape, and now did the big back harness with red and I'm thinking about doing the rest of the wires in red also. These pics don't do it much justice though taken at night with my video camera... but yea you can see what I want to do basically.

The TB, intake manifold, gearbox, fuel rail and exhaust manifold cover is all done in hi-temp aluminium paint, so black engine bay, aluminium shiny metal motor... stock nice valve covers, cleaned up black hoses running everywhere....................... and red wiring? Strut brace is definately going to be red too.

Alot, the thread on the strut towers look a little thin... Do I just undo the three nuts, whack the strut brace in there and redo it back up??? How thick is the metal used that goes over the shock tower? I'm thinkin of using 8/10mm steel, and then a big flat bar across the engine bay, painted red with some form of crap rice stuff on it about mitsubishi like "F... Mitsubishi" and maybe some removable covers for the centre of the strut tower which are silver/chrome/white (one of them colours) with a red mitsu logo on it... ideas?

samurai made a strut brace for his 2nd gen....he used to remember specs for it like pcd for the bottom plate, inner and outer diameters, thickness and spec of tubes he used etc etc.

u might be able to find a thread he started about making his strut brace and find specs if needed. btw, what was the point of wrapping that it red tape? coulda tried that split tubing stuff (uno, the ribbed hoses)? less mess and easier if u ever need to u ever undo the wires again.

btw, red always makes stuff look cool. even better in engine bays coz red= fast and the engine bay is where the engine is lol

btw, red always makes stuff look cool. even better in engine bays coz red= fast and the engine bay is where the engine is lol



:bowrofl: :bowrofl: so thats what ive been doing wrong!

So why are you relocating these items?

So why are you relocating these items?

Well i dont know for sure but im going to say, he has no AC and wants to run a better CAI than you possibly could with all that junk where it was originaly.

Plus

Why Not?

Is it just me or is part of that engine missing?

Is it just me or is part of that engine missing?

Plenum, tb, air intake assembly...

Relocating items because:

1. Fuse box looks crap in stock position, and I want the battery relocated, and I'm thinking probably going to the boot with that.
2. I can mount my pod where the battery was, enclose it with the AFM bolting up to it, making it look relatively straight. Also, this is one of the best closest spots to get air into the motor.
3. Radiator overflow bottle can go over the other side... and I'll put the wiper reservoir over there too.

I am still thinking about what to put where... but I am getting front and rear custom strut braces made up. I should have the rings by 2moro arvo, and then weld the bar across with some sort adjustable mechanism by the weekend.

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/471/dsc00182iw2.th.gif (http://img176.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00182iw2.gif)
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/9460/dsc00185eg0.th.gif (http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00185eg0.gif)
http://img174.imageshack.us/img174/9101/dsc00186sa3.th.gif (http://img174.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00186sa3.gif)
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/8632/dsc00188rx6.th.gif (http://img165.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc00188rx6.gif)

...but I am getting front and rear custom strut braces made up. I should have the rings by 2moro arvo, and then weld the bar across with some sort adjustable mechanism by the weekend.

Do you need to use special metal or welds etc. ? (P.S. I know nothing - just asking questions of you & the AMC members to maybe help you)
I'd hate to see a strut brace break - I'd imagine it'd go off with quite a bang! :shock:

I know we can buy front strut braces, but has anyone ever seen one for the rear? (and I wonder if they'd be different from sedan & wagon)

Yea there is heaps on the rear strut brace... alot of bandwagon jumpers have front strut braces, but the rear one does the same thing, but for the back of the car. It provides another dimension for strut support. I am also looking into replacing the rear sway bar with a custom one. And yea, tubular bar made of steel is the go. Struts dont move much, and the weld will probably break before the bar does, or the actual strut tower would snap or just move over... I don't think anyone has seen my structural steel fabrication yet, it's going to be alot thicker than the normal strut braces, without going overboard with weight.

Mated together with new KYB adjustable struts, lowered front springs, nolathane bushes everywhere in the front end, larger sway bays front and rear and new front tie rod ends... I'm sure the TR will handle a tiny bit better =)

I am also talking with a friend at the moment about welding the back doors and doing something there to make it a two seater. The rear doors are just as big as the front ones though, so it might look pretty crap.... heading to photoshop now. Anyone got two door TR pics?

Edit: Also, there is other things like a sub-frame support brace which I will probably incorporate up near the front end of my car... putting in some big square tubing to reinforce the chassis more. I am sick of my mates bmw 318i handling corners are massive speed and me taking the same corners with tyre wall flex and massive body roll... in a month or more when my TR is done it should definately chop his beamer, in everything... 17's are on the list to come too.

Edit#2!: The rear strut towers have a larger amount of bolt coming out of them... so I can fit a thicker base plate for the strut brace to bolt into. It will fully stiffen the car making it feel like its on rails... also it maintains the right/same camber into and throughout a corner... (I have read.)

I'll have a look on my server I used to have a tr blown 250hp, manual I had a ton of photo shoots done, I look if I have something for you to play around with in photoshop thats if you want it.