hey guys

recently ive been having a problem where the car will start then will stop within a second or 2. after that it will just turn over and will not kick at all. usually i'll wait a while and it will come good. well tonight it's packed up totally. started then stopped. tried again and got it going and it stopped again. I've left it for 3 hours and it refuses to fire, just keeps turning over.

this is a bad problem seeing i start a new job in the morning :cry:

any help/ideas how to get her going within the next hour would be appreciated

cheers guys

What condition are these things in?

battery/ ignition leads/distributor cap/rotor

otherwise could be starter motor or fuel relay issue

Alot of people have had similar problems and it's turned out to be the battery.

battery was replaced not long ago, a month or so.

as for ignition leads/distributor cap/rotor not sure. but i'm certain its an immobiliser problem. the car doesn't have any aftermarket locking system or immobiliser

when you try and start the car does it make a ticking noise?

battery was replaced not long ago, a month or so.

as for ignition leads/distributor cap/rotor not sure. but i'm certain its an immobiliser problem. the car doesn't have any aftermarket locking system or immobiliser

even tho you got and new battery not to long ago doesnt mean that it can still be a faulty battery. i had mine replace after i killed the first one :shock: and lucky if it lasted a week before i had to get another one. just check you battery to make sure that its not a dead one

I have a similar poblem. Go to start the car and nothing happens, still have power but it won't turn over and i can here something in the engine bay clicking everytime i turn the key.

Whats strange though is that if i leave it for 5 to 10 minutes and come back it will start no problem most of the time. My mechanics thought it was my battery terminals as the batery tested ok and the starter motor had just been replaced. So they replaced the terminals but slowly it is getting worse, happening a few times a week now. Taking it in on thrusday for them to try and work out exactly what the problem is.


when you try and start the car does it make a ticking noise?

Mine does make a ticking noise, from both the engine bay and the area that the ecu is meant to occupy.
Any ideas on what the problem may be would be greatly appreciated.

even tho you got and new battery not to long ago doesnt mean that it can still be a faulty battery. i had mine replace after i killed the first one :shock: and lucky if it lasted a week before i had to get another one. just check you battery to make sure that its not a dead one
Yup, can happen unfortunately. Happened to my dad as well.

muzza_oz had the same problem, all he did was pull the connections apart for the imobiliser and cleaned then reconnected, been fine since, ( the wires from the key reader to the module)

hope that helps

Sounds like the ignition barrel.

The contacts fail, but apparently it's not too hard too fix.

There was a recent thread about it.

EDIT Found this from a thread...

hi there,

sounds like the same problem i had with my car. where you place the key in the ignition their is any airel that attaches the ecu from the ignition block two wires green and red attached by a connecter. by word by Mitsubishi the connecter with the two pins after time heats up and come apart, just a little gap which is cause by the power through the ignition when you start the car over. to fixs the problem all you need to do is the remove the connect one wire at a time due to on the other side of the green and red wire their is the black wire, if wires are not connected probably like before with the connect car will not start.

that will fix your problem with the car not starting.

And this..

if it starts, revs up, and then shuts off.. id say its the battery thats stuffed, 99 per cent of the time on magnas, TE onwards.. if it cranks, and wont fire.. id say its the keyring antenna, the plastic ring around the ignition barrel for the immobiliser is stuffed.. not uncommon.. a simple and temp fix to that is to take the lower panel off, drivers side of dash.. and get access to the key ring antenna plug, disconnect it, reconnect it.. and then it should fire up.. only a temp fix, it will play up again.. the part price is under 50 bucks, and about 30 mins to install! remeber, if u wanna get the part, make sure u get the right one.. illumination, or no illumination!

And this...

Hey fencer assuming your car is still under warranty I think that should have been done under warranty.

If not under warranty then maybe they should have still done it cos it is a known problem certainly with TH ......although when I had mine done a few years ago they said they had not seen it in a TH at that time but the previous model all the time!

It is a loose wire behind where the ignition key goes.....mitsu have a fix for it which is just to resolder it I think....it was a while ago so not exactly sure of the remedy.

For the record the RAA guy got mine started by disconnecting the battery and reversing the leads (check that!!)....which resets the computer.

My TE had that problem, to get it started (dont ask me how... RAC did it) he got some fuel and injected it on the left hand side of the engine. After he did that the car started. Found out later via Mitsu that it was the immobiliser wire that is wraped around the barrel.

thanks for your quick replies guys. As usual i should of just hit the search button :nuts:

got mums car for tomorrow so i'll pull it to bits tomorrow arvo after i get home from work

This sounds like the same issue that Bio Hazzard from newie is having.. It to me sounded like a immobilizer drama when i did it when i was around..


Found out later via Mitsu that it was the immobiliser wire that is wraped around the barrel.
yeah i know what you mean and reckon thats his issue..

I have had it/have it. If I play with the harness above the fuse box at the feet of the driver it usually fixes it.

Problem solved, so if you are having similar problems, please read!!!

Its a little white plug coming out of the ignition barrel that caused all the grief. All i did was pulled it open, blew in the plug and it ran. I then opened it again and slightly bent the 2 prongs inside the plug so they are now a tighter fit in the other half of the plug, hence making a better contact.

If the problem happens again, i'll have my trusty possie drive in the glovebox ready and waiting :D

Yeah thats the immoboliser thingo.. they are crap..:shock:

Have you got any pics of the area you are talking about by any chance??? would love to know what to look for if it happens to me :)

cheers

Heath

Good stuff Jase! I had exactly same connector failing last Feb. Secured it with cable tie. But now I've been experiencing starting probs again. I need to wait til engine symbol in dash goes out before I start. Occasionally it flickers back and need the re-do the whole starting process. Err coding always gives me Immobilier fault. Pain, eh.
Battery 12.65 V, 14+ when idling. What do other ppl have as voltage - if that is considered as the root cause to this problem?