HI forum member /reader

All the posts that follow are from work I have personally done on the 4 cyl TM TN TP first gen Magnas covering the 2.6 astron motor / automatics/ brakes etc
using basic metric socket sets, spanners,pliers, hammer and screwdrivers

any problems not listed pm me

If more detailed pictures are needed please pm me

the EFI engine bay diagnostic plug explained

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106391

doing a service filters required
TN
http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/application/vehicle-type/LC%2CPA%2CSU/make/MITSUBISHI/model/MAGNA/series/tn
source
http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue

Australian Magna Club First Generation Archives year 2003 http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/archive/index.php/f-12.html

Active . 2015
TP econony info
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1605950#poststop
injector post
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1606927#poststop

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/magna/viscosity%20oil.jpg (http://s253.photobucket.com/user/magnabuff/media/magna/viscosity%20oil.jpg.html)

Head removal
this will do for the 4 cylinder tm-tp and second gen engines with roller rockers
parts valve regrind gasket set (VRS)
Tools
tension wench metric sockets & spanners

updated information... 2014
because the TM-TP series are now older cars
and parts harder to get

If anyone else has a head problem/overheating
I would strongly suggest they have the block
tested for hardness/pressure tested/machined on all surfaces
fit new studs on sides
new bolts and washes ..clean out thread holes in block
check block surface for warp ..
specs only allow one mm for the block warp
two mm for head warp

TR/TS 4 cyl heads have been sucessfully been fitted to the first gen motors
carby and EFI...... including thier rocker roller cam gear

TR and TS 4 cyl head bolts that fit the TN/TP motor
should still be able to be bought at repco bursons or other
washes if no luck anywhere .... a nuts and bolt shop should supply

this way by millstp http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64638

this is another way
proceedure
drain cooling system to below block
undo inlet manifold bolts-----12 mm-- pull clear of head
undo exhaust manifold bolts -12mm -make sure it doesnt hit the radiator
undo tappet cover water pump pully bolt off the cam (14mm)
turn engine to TDC make sure rotor button on dissy cap is at number one cyl and at top of compression stroke
remove dissy 12mm undo timing cam bolt 22mm
rest that cam on the cam rest
undo rockers and 2 bolts 12mm inside the timing chain cavity
watch out for falling tappets as you remove the rockers
undo head bolts 17 mm
lift head off without touching the cam sprocket
clean all gasket surfaces off before refitting new gasket
head removal

If efi undo the support bracket bolted on the back of the engine block
you get to it from under neath the car 14 mm

Timing and cam problems 2.6 4 cyl
This is a problem a lot of the 2.6 4 cyl owners have tm-tp
and can be done if you have the skills and tools

before you undo anything
with the timing mark at TDC Its different because the line up spot is just before the 3 oclock position on the cam and the trick is to have the rotor pointing lining up just before number one lead on the cap so that spark happens at the number one lead not after when refitting the dissy

I have never come across a timing chain with the coloured link so I mark it with nail polish
the red circle is the pin that lines up the cam and the sprocket and the dissy cog you cant go wrong if all that goes togeather

The most annoying thing is the hydraulic tappets fall out easily when undoing the rockers
after the cam is removed the head can come off

How to remove a petrol tank

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106162


EFi fuel filter removal

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105333

fuel guage issues http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1442449#poststop

charcole canister
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100708

TP Magna/carby/emissions controls/cannister/ the final solution
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101236

a webber can be fitted to a first gen .... getting the correct jet size and manual choke are the only problems

each factory carby is model specific
each differ between models TM TN TP
auto and manual carbies also differ

the rebuild kits do several carbies
so some parts are not supplied or are not
compatable with the magna carby

TN TP................................ not a TM has wires on a nut and diff regulator
regulator/alternator
Tools
12 mm and 14 mm sockets or spanners
philips screwdriver
oil filter removal tool

a DIY job
(other than a slipping belt ,dying battery or loose and dirty terminals) the regulator is the most common cause of the battery light coming on and off while driving along
to check
a volt meter across the battery terminals while running should read 13-15 volts
the regulator is held on by two screws and comes in one piece
you can buy this part in advance
the regulator is non repairable
to remove
undo the battery terminals then the clip and pull the wiring plug off you can try to undo the screws or spin off the oil filter to get at the two screws

before you refit the new regulator check the brass contact inside the alternator is round and no grooves you can then fit the regulator and
reconnect the wiring refit the oil filter

job done

lower control arm bushes to remove

Tools
hammer
14 mm 17 mm 19 mm 32 mm sockets/spanners
car support stands
pliers /circlip pliers
ideal tool a ball joint taper breaker tool


the tortion bar bolt and rubber washes need to be undone 14 mm

undo the lower ball joint nut then undo the bush support brackets

around the front lower control arm should be a bracket this has to be undone ...to give room for the through bolt holding the front control arm bushes to be removed


the smaller front bushes can be hacksawed through the outer casing or a press is required
to remove the old front bushes break out the old bush
then hacksaw the old metal bush shell till you can remove it
do not hacksaw through the lower control arm or it will be a trip to a wrecker

the rear larger bushes are just pull off


the whole lower arm has to be removed from the car
so lower ball joint undone

to fit the new neprene split type bushes with the metal crush tube a G clamp is used to feed the inner pipe through the two bushes

the lower control arms can to be removed and taken to a suspension shop to save on labour costs

no suspension part or steering component can be welded


the lower ball joint is held in with a c clip and can be replaced with care

timing chains
Tools
engine crane /floor jack/car stands
10 12,14,17,22,34 metric sockets/spanners
scraper blade /pliers
split pins
permatex sealants

Never Cut the head gasket"
to get the timing chain or cog through

drain transmission and motor
remove both front wheels
remove the cv joints and
you undo the drivers side gearbox mount though the wheel arch
4x14 mm bolts this allows the engine to drop
support the engine with a jack undo the passengerside engine mount 14 mm
undo front and rear engine mounts

with engine crane tilt engine so the pully can be removed 22mm
remove engine sump 10 mm bolts
remove rocker cover and undo the two blots inside the head next to the cam cog 12mm
undo the alternator and airconditioning unit 12 mm and bracket
undo timing cover bolts 12 mm
undo power steering pump and bracket 14 and 12 mm

timing mark has to be at TDC
undo belt/timing pully it is on a key way then remove timing cover

mark the timing positions dont move the crank or cam
remove the chain guides of the front chain that runs the balance shafts and the oil pump
pull off the crankshaft chain cog
undo the top cog support bracket and chain guides

if the guides are worn they need to be replaced as well
refit a new timing cover seal on the way back in

Counter balance set up
one must not assume the chains were fitted properly
so you mark the old chains before removing them

mark the dots and links of both counter balance shafts to ensure they are at the correct position when installing the new chain

the timing chain can be set wrongly also if not bolted to the camshaft
the bright link position is at the dot on the top timing cog which is set at 3 oclock
the crank keyway needs to be at 3 oclock and the top cam is in its locating dowel at 12 oclock ........... number one cyl compression

the two balance shaft sprockets are the same part
the oil pump sprocket is fitted on the reverse side
to the other balance shaft sprocket both sides have dots
make sure after fitting the new chains
the chains and guides touch and run straight


on a tp

timing chain kit had a few problems had to do modification and pivot bolt supplied was faulty and nearly stripped in the block
drop engine down
droped engine down from under neath in less the 2 hours
chains and tensioner gave trouble and took some time to work a soultion they have made a modification and one chain guide has to be drilled ( had to cut the oil pump chain off to release it ...this is not in the manual )

water jacket is behind Timing chain cover
water does enter the sump
so the sump should be taken off as per factory manual proceedure

engine fitted back to side engine mounts without too much trouble but thats a half a day to do still have to connect everything back to geather before engine runs again

rear brakes
TP rear disks caliper procedure for replacing new pads
Tools
floor jack /car stands
12 mm 13 spanner
large screwdriver
pliers /Tbar, socket
undo handbrake cable clip
undo nut holding handbrake bracket watch where the return spring goes
undo both 12mm caliper nuts

unless you have the right tool
you use a screwdriver insert it carefully into the pistons groove where the disc brake clips into
Find a socket to fit over the screwdriver head and a t bar
with care rotate the caliper piston until the caliper moves inwards watch for the movement
the direction is different on each side of the car so dont undo the piston so it falls out
it is very tight to beguin with then as the brake fluid pressure is over come it gets easier
when fully in the pad alignment slot should be back faceing towards the stub axle again
when the caliper is fully in fit new pads refit handbrake use a 10 mm spanner to realign the handbrake bracket to the adjuster on the back of the caliper

to rebuild recondition your rear calipers
remove caliper from car dont loose copper washers on the brake hose connection

unscrew the piston out fully
inspect condition of piston
locate the metal holding clip of piston rubber cup dig the clip out with a small thin screwdriver

remove internal threaded part -- has a bearing and washer inside and smaller oring
remove old inner piston rubber o ring
clean all parts down with metho and blow dry with air
if unit is servicable apply rubber grease to o rings when fitting
fit rubber oring to inside of cylinder and the small o ring on the threaded part - push bearing and washer over the new o ring
fit back into cylinder
thread piston back into cylinder carefully till right in

check action of hand brake the thread part it should be pushed through to allow you to screw on the handbrake cable bracket and nut
fit outer rubber boot to piston the work cup into the gap between the piston and the caliper then fit the circlip
fit new rubber dust covers on slides and apply small amount of grease
refit caliper to car make sure one copper washer is fitted to each side of the brake hose connection (the 17 mm bolt ) tighten two holding bolts refit handbrake cable and bleed

How to test the brake booster

http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=12:what-to-do-if-you-suspect-your-brake-booster-is-not-working&catid=7:diagnosing-brake-system-problems&Itemid=15

Front brakes
TP replacing the front Brake disc pads
Tools
12 mm spanner/socket
car stand/ floor jack
G clamp
undo the lower 12 mm caliper nut
swing caliper upwards to clear the disk
carefully remove old pads refit new pads

brake fluid may overflow at the master cylinder so watch for dribble onto the paint work

use a G clamp to compress the caliper piston inwards
If you are doing both sides at the same time both caliper pistons need to be compressed or held in ....if not one pops out on you

drop caliper back into position and retighten caliper bolt

to rebuild recondition your front calipers

remove the brake discs and press your foot on the pedal the pistons should pop out
if not you undo the caliper from the car and use compressed air into the brake in line the pressure pops out the piston

inspect the piston and caliper for reusability
remove c clip from outer boot and clean all parts in metho
clean out with air
fit new internal rubber o ring with rubber grease supplied smaer the piston and fit back into caliper add out dust boot and refit a new c clip
make sure piston is in fully
clear bleeder and refit brake hose etc refit discs tighten bolts bleed caliper ( do both sides

engine removal
Dropping the engine and gearbox with out lifting eguipment

floor jack and car stands
with engine stripped of head ,inlet manifold , exhaust manifold
north south brace under chassis
exhaust to cat converter
had to remove
air conditioning compressor
power steering pump
rear engine support bracket
drivers side cv joint
undo speedo at auto

was able to leave on
alternator, starter motor
front engine mount bracket
interim and passenger side cv drive shaft
gearbox and all electrical connections

car on car stands (saftey first )
minimum height from floor at tyre jack point 40 cm
support engine/gearbox with good floor jack
undo drive plate bolts to torque converter
undo automatic shift and all electrical connections
look out for one bracket on chassis below the brake master cyl undo it
undo starter motor and alternator wires
oil sender wire

tie up inlet manifold and air con compressor to stop getting in the way

undo auto oil cooler hoses off of radiator to auto box
undo engine mount bolts 4x14 mm on passenger side into timing cover support
undo 4x14 driverside in through mudguard

lower onto a trolly or the jack to the floor and drag unit out from under car

remove airconditioning

to remove the airconditioning system
if the air con gas has leaked out and is too expensive to repair the air con
push in the tyre valve to be sure there is no gas
undo the air con pipes at the dryer

to slacken or remove the idler pully and air con belt
undo the through nut at the idler pully 14 mm
slacken off the adjusting bolt remove belt after the alternator belt is off
(or be lazy cut the air con belt off )
unplug the wires to the air con and valves near the dryer
(using two spanners on the nuts one to undo the other to hold )
undo the pipes as many as you can and

under the car you undo the 2 bolts holding the pipes onto the pump
undo the 4 bolts holding the pump to the mounting bracket to the block

the pump can be taken out from the top remove the dissy cap and rotor

the tx valve (to get at )
undo a 10 or 12mm nut on the firewall below the airconditioner pump this nut holds the internal casing in place
undo the pipes through the firewall
open the glove box undo the main support bracket screws moving form the centre of the dash towards the passenger door and a 12 mm nut on the side kick panel this should let the glove box drop clear
undo the 2 retaining straps aorund the vent pipes
and disconnet the wire from the relay unit
the black plastic box (not the fan motor assembly)
then comes out in one piece the tx valve is a small round thingy with a pipe against the heater core

wheel bearings


how to get to the tm/tp wheel bearings

Front
undo cv outer nut
remove cv joint
undo brake caliper
undo shock absorber support mount bolts
remove the brake rotor
ease off the hub without damaging the dust seal
by evenly placing two levers diagonally on to the hub
wiggle side to side
use wider or thicker levers till the hub comes off

lever method

the seal will be damaged this way

with the cv nut off ..the brakes and rotor off

there is eneogh room to start with 2 strong screwdrivers or tyre levers and you put them between the stub axle and the steering assembly
diagonally egual distane at all time any where arount the hub
push towards you tight at first apply pressure and wiggle till the stub axle starts to move out
then turn the tyre levers on the flat side till the stub axle come off

EDIT
to replace all bearings and seals

very expensive items for ball bearings held in by a plastic race
thats it
2 seals 2 sets of bearings in a race per side

approx $100 each side

use a press to split the hub part with the wheel nut studs from the stub axle or the lever method if no press is availaible

then on the inside part of the stub axle you remove the seal and you find a large thick circlip that needs a wide opening heavy duty circlip plier to remove
then the bearing race and cones should fall out

more info

see post after front strut below for more info on this procedure
heating the stub axle and lower control arm helps get out the old parts
then a cold chisel and mallet will remove the old parts

the front bearing kit comes with the solid outer race that fits into the stub axle

repack with special high temp hub bearing grease not moly or axle grease refit circlip the inner seal fit outer bearing and seal press the stub axle back
togeather


remove the cone by tapping through the hub
use a screwdriver and hammer and go through each side and hit on the edge of the cone in the hub then turn it a/4 hit again till the bearing cone comes out


Rear

undo brakes and caliper
pop off dust cap /pull out split pin /undo locking nut
pull disc towards you /remove bearings and seal
clean inspect replace or repack with grease
retighten to torq spec

valve stem seals

valve stem seals The first tool allows you to remove and replace the valve springs without removing the cylinder head, as if you were replacing a broken spring or installing valve seals. When using this tool you need to have some way to hold the valve in place from underneath. This can be done with air pressure in the cylinder via a fitting in the spark plug port. It might also be done by stuffing some small rope into the cylinder and bringing the piston up to push against the valve head.

There are a number of similar tools on the market in the $12 to $30 range. Some may be cam and lever operated for fast action. One thing to watch for is the length of the short fingers on the ends of the hooks, as some of them are too short to catch the inner spring of a dual valve spring setup. This particular model will work with dual springs, but you may need to put a screw type hose clamp around the legs of the tool to hold it securely in place during use.

The second tool here is much easier to use if you have the cylinder head on the workbench. The forked end catches the valve spring cap while the peg end presses on the valve head. The actuator has a toggle mechanism that works with a single squeeze of the hand lever, and there is a latch to hold it in the pinched position to free up your hands and let you relax once the valve spring is compressed. These can be found in the $20 to $30 range. Beware that some of the cheaper ones may be particularly flimsey, perhaps good for small engines but not well suited for use on your car engine.

A trick with any of these tools is to put a little force on the tool, and then give the spring cap a little tap with a hammer to break the valve locks (cotters) loose.

engine mount removals
TN TP engine and gearbox mounts are 91.5 mm only the TR injected engine mount is 88.5


first gen engine mounts

coldy
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105763

trans gold mount cattledog

http://www.transgold.com.au/productdata/custcatalogue.php
Kelpro mounts cattledog

http://www.motospecs.com.au/assets/files/downloads/Kelpro_Engine_Mounts_Ed9(s)_2014.pdf

page 118 of the pdf

*from magna built after 4/87 they increased the size of the mount to 91.5mm

Kelpro says 91.5 mm for both TP and TR both mounts >>> except TR/TS EFI RHS is 88.5 MT8505N

You Need TM,TN, TP RHS >auto manual > MT8507N
...............................................and LHS is MT 8503N



4 cyl
Rear engine mount removal

the 3 bolts on the chassis bracket of the mount
2 long extensions (+ a short or a universal) rachet and the socket undo the nuts from the top of the engine
gently lever the powersteering pipes out of the way so the socket sits on the bolt heads square --the driverside nut is easier to get at

undo the rear mounts mounts through bolt

undo driverside tyre undo gearbox mount 4 x14mm nuts through chassis holes
dont drop the bolts into the chassis
this gives you more lift on the engine

jack up the motor so it clears so there is eneough room to remove the rear mount support brackets bolted to the engine block 2 bolts
should be good to come out then

side mount drivers side
undo tyre look for 4 plugs hiding 4x 14 mm bolts
support engine on jack and undo the 4 bolts rhen the gearbox though bolt

passengers side

support engine undo 4 x 14 mm bolts on mount bracket

then the 17 mm nut and 2 x 14 mm nuts to relase the mount
the engine may need to be lowered or raised to get clearence to remove this mount

front mount all 14 mm nut/bolt combinations undo these to release the mount

Sikaflex mount repair
need a chaulkin gun for the tube of sikaflex
let the mount cure for 3 days just to be sure / 2 days in hot summer

front strut removal

unclip the brake hoses to the strut
undo the brake hose
use allen key and ring spanner or air rattle gun on the top nut
undo the two bolts on the stb axle
the unit falls out

warning part 4 the rubber part should not be collapsed
it should have a gap on the top of more than one cm and the bottom section should proutude down about one centre meter .


If left serious handeling failure and contol issues may result in an accident and loss of control of the vehicle

WARNING DO NOT undo the second nut without fitting the springs with the spring compresser tool ... the spring under high compression

the springs need to be compressed to 9 inches before they can be fitted back onto the strut
this is dangerous work if the compressor tools fail
at the wrong time and never work with your hands inside the compressed springs

roof liner

to remove fit a roof liner in the sedan is not a hard job to do

help up with velcro and the srewed in parts and plastic strips
sedan
undo plastic window strips front and rear on clips
undo interior roof light
hand grips
plastic strips above doors/ sun visors/ mirror
plastic down bits along the front pilars and the liner comes out
I got the roof line out the driverside rear ...by bending the middle of it into a curve with the drivers side lying down & seats forward in to get the liner out of the car and the same to get the new one in bend it
screwed all the fittiings back on and then the plastic strips

wagon same as the sedan up front and undoing as above

the wagon rear
remove rubber weather strip
undo seatbelt upper bolts
side panels are plastic on clips can pull off or be stubborn and break
start at the top one then remove both sides lower let them rest where the sit

the roof liner should have 2 lights unplug the clip up light connections
2 or 3 removable plastic zip heads (rear)take them off
the liner is removed towards and out of the back of the wagon

steering wheel removal

pull off horn plastic cover

undo small nut in the middle
remove aluminuim block
give a sharp tug on the sterring wheel towards you
till the wheel comes off the spline

throttle position sensor explained

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Throttle_position_sensor

ECU /ICU explained

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_Control_Unit

TCU explained

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_Control_Unit

automatic

exploded views and parts list KM170-177 or F4A23

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/KM170.html

member aqua forund this gem in 2013... 120 pages pdf
http://caixautomatica.xpg.uol.com.br/manuaiservicos/Mitsubishi/MANUAL%20DE%20SERVI%C3%87O_MITSUBISHI_KM-177.pdf

more F4A23 automatic information 44 pages pdf

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106241


4 main problems
If the car revs while overdrive is selected the overdrive friction disks have failed or some other part of the overdrive (4th gear)

If you have Drive and you suddenly loose all gears including reverse
no matter how much you rev it
the torque converter or oil pump has failed

If the gears start slipping and become harsh or thumps
the kickdown band may be damaged or the oil and filter needs changing

if the gearbox stays in one gear and is sluggish the TCU has gone into limp mode...to fix this you fit a second hand one from a wrecker

The KM177-6 (also known as F4A23)is a four-speed electronic automatic transaxle built by Mitsubishi and was used in all TP models and carburettored Second Generation models.

After discovering that the KM175 was failing often in service, MMAL decided that both carby and fuel-injected TP Magnas would be fitted with the stronger transaxle.

The KM177-6 was very similar to the KM177 which was introduced in the fuel-injected TN. As with the KM177 and KM175 before it, it uses a damper clutch in the torque converter which causes the converter to lock at low vehicle speeds. The operation of the clutch is controlled by the Transaxle Control Unit.

As with the KM175 and KM177, gear selection is electronic and is controlled by solenoids activated by the Transaxle Control Unit. The TCU uses information from sensors which provide information on vehicle speed, throttle position, engine coolant temperature, gear lever position, engine speed, transfer shaft speed, overdrive switch and kickdown drum speed.

Differences between the KM177 and KM177-6 include a revised final drive ratio and the introduction of power and economy modes (which required a different transaxle control unit).

Power and economy mode was a change made to the transaxle control unit and changed when the transmission kicked down and upchanged. In power mode, upchanges occured at higher rpm, while the throttle was more sensitive for downchanges.

To check the oil level cycle through the gears when hot on a level area engine running put into PARK, check dip stick , it needs to be between the hot and cold marks

Technical data
Lubricant mitsubishi diamond spectrum ATF SP3 (front wheel drive automatics only) Capacity 5.8 Litres
GEAR RATIOS
Final Drive 3.900
1st 2.551
2nd 1.488
3rd 1.000
4th 0.685
Reverse 2.176

overdrive to be engaged above 70 km /h

overdrive overhaul

kit ordering part
atp kik-170075 km177/F4a-23 year 1987 on .overdrive/end clutch .car repair kit
the kit you can purchase through an auto transmission shop

you know when it is not working or broken when you engage overdrive and the engine just revs and you think the car is in neutral

a good link with pictures

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90CR6Zzz1JM
do it your self
for the people who want to take a look themselves
take off the drivers side tyre
On the gearbox on the left side is a plate you get to
the plate has 10 mm head bolts
undo that plate and you will see the end clutch
if a lot of auto oil comes out when you remove the cover then you need a clutch plate kit which has seals included
the new friction plates have to be soaked in auto fluid for 2 hours before fitting !
remember in which order the clutch parts come out in and which way they face

the inner drive drum must line up with all the friction disks and be flush before putting back
this take patience and fiddleing

the end clutch assembly just pulls off easily towards you
then you can inspect it
if the friction plates are worn out these are easy to replace yourself

seals are harder to fit and also if the end clutch itself is damaged or have a broken thrust washer you need to take the clutch to an automatic repairer for fixing or replacement
you need the serial number on your automatic box

to replace the friction plates

soak them in new auto oil for 2 hours before refitting

all you have to do is look for the small snap ring at the beguining of the overdive drum
unclip that (it has no real pressure it is just a retainer a screwdriver will do to pluck it out )
remember the order of each plate as you remove them (very important )
ok dont stuff this order up this is the order as you pull it apart
snap ring, a thick clutch reaction plate,a clutch disk ,a clutch plate, for four times so the last plate out is a metal one not one with material on it

also the 2 types of plates are different and be patient lining up the inner drum before you install
look out for burrs on the inner drum if there is a burr that inner drum wont go togeather
you may give the groves a light file to remove any burrs

radio removal

for the TP front speaker removal

pop off the two side plastic runners up the pillars to the roof liner
there is a metal cover on clips up to the windscreen up pop that up
remove on an upward angle it can bend a little but not too much

then a right angles philips tool you undo the two small (approx 4 inch) speakers each side

unplug the wiring loom

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37816

Driveshaft /cv joint removal

Easy to do your self if you have the tools
this proceedure used on most every front wheel drive car
all about CV joints

Part one general information
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint1.htm

Part two faults and diagnosis http://www.aa1car.com/library/cvjoint2.htm

Tools minimum
car support stands for safety
pliers split pin correct metric sockets 17 mm and 32 for outer cv nut
a T bar
a solid hammer
pipe of suitable length to slip over the T bar

Tension wrench if you dont know the tension on the outer cv nut and want to get it perfect
The correct torque for the outer cv nut is 200-260 nm

One way
undo outer cv joint hub nut
undo tie rod end -undo bottom ball joint (hammer the solid metal of the stub axle till the tapper releases )
when both are free of the tappers
pull brake rotor assembly and hub outwards till cv joint spline clears
put oil catch container under gearbox tug on the cv joint till it comes out
replace gearbox drive seals realign splines to the new cv joint re tighten

Another way (Old Farts Way ) the best way
You dont need to undo the ball joints. If you undo the 2 bolts that hold the hub to the strut the hub will swing down just low enough to slip the spine of the drive shaft out of the hub.
That saves damaging the ball joints.

Use a large flat blade screwdriver to gently lever out the shaft from the trannie, sometimes when you pull on them the trilobal joint (trannie end) comes apart.

the interum shaft
removal
dont forget the oil catch can
after the passengers side cv joint is removed
the interum shaft is bolted to the back of the engine block by two bolts undo them and
then you can remove the interum shaft from the box
it has a bearing that may need replacing

Just CV boots
to replace the cv boots you have to start on the inner cv remove the circip with circlip pliers after removing the boots clips or straps slip off the inner cv then go for the outer boots clips or straps and slide it up the drive shaft if the outer cv boot needs replacing
extra info
sequence
refit boot clip outer boot smaller boot clip ....small clip then inner boot then CV c clip into housing then outer clip
we now use the metal clips $2 for 2 from repco the black ties and straps fail
Extra info
The c clip on the driverside cv joint to the gearbox must remain fitted to prevent seal leakage

to remove the ball race housing there is a small c clip inside the lip of the casing that has to be removed with a small bladed screwdriver
before extracting the ball and race

TM carby model and the EFI TN

removal for bushes or shocks wagon and sedan

Torque specs included

helped do the first TP motor conversion posted
this is on my own TN 2.6
M4 head
TR/TS 4 cyl cam and full rocker shaft that matched the cam
turn motor to TDC on number one Cyl on compression stroke
undo rocker cover
undo dissy
undo water pump pully on camshaft
undo timing pully nut 22mm
put timing cog on rest
undo old rockers
lift out old cam
fit rocker roller cam in its place
fit on roller rocker shaft ..and watch as the clean lifters fall out
torque on rocker shaft to 20 nm max limit
refit timing bolt
refit water pump pully
fit dissy
use sealant on rocker cover
tighten down the rocker
start motor and retime engine

Replacing an EFI fuel filter

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1624460#poststop


Carby pumps only

TM early Carby mechanical attached to block pressure 18-28 kPa Kpa

TM TN TP later Carby electric 12 v in tank delivery pressure 19.6- 25.5 kPa = 3 psi

The bolt located below the tank is holding the base of the electric pump
not a proper drain plug as one would think

EFI pumps only (part 14-3-1 of TN Mitsi factory manual )


TM -Nil
TN/TP EFI electric 12 v,in tank , operating pressure 196 kPa = 28 psi

fuse layout and hand book page

fitting the alternator and airconditioning belts

passengerside near the distributor

you have to slacken off the through bolt of the idler pully tensioner through nut-- a 14 mm eneough for the
the longer adjuster bolt to slacken off the for the tensioner to move down so you can get eneough slack to remove the belt

see picture
then moving to the front of the car undo the 14 mm lower secururing bolt of the adjuter a 14 mm - 3
slacken off a few turns of the through bolt holding the alternator to the block - 2
then unscrew the longer threaded bolt to take the tension of the alternator and powersteering belt -1

fitting both belts is harder start at the crank pully and fit and retighten
the alternator adjuster nut

then with a bit of pressure make the air conditioning belt fit back onto the idler pully and compressor ( a large scewdrive helps because there is not much room between the chassis and the engine retighten tensioner

go not over tighten the belts because they can snap
make sure the is some minimal deflection /slack on both belts]

helps if the battery is out on the drivers side
passengerside easier

look for a curved hook which is part of a a spring

pull on that till you see it clear the chassis

then let it pass throught the slot
this releases the indicator so all you have to do is

move it forward from the head light

on the headlight you will see two slots

the indicator slots into these when refitting

the 2 little pins on the end sometimes break
the ones that line up to the guard

to remove the headlights
the front grill /bumper bar /nose brace and the
backing bumper bar metal brace have to be undone

the headlight has 4 bolts to be undone each side

head light adjustment
you can set up the wall with black tape

and also to adjust each light blank off one lamp at a time
with a mate standing in front of one or something heat resistant

height of the car varies now with different tyres and rims
wagon to sedan

2 screws
one for up and down
one for sidways for aiming

the side bolts holding the lights behind the indicators can also be used as an adjustment if the body has had some damage in the past

with the motor out

you remove the single chain and its relevent guides

remove both balance shafts

with the kit comes a metal ring This ring has to be pressed/hammered in gently
in to the uppermost balance shaft gap to block the oil hole
This ring has to be flush with the block face when fitted

the small chain in the kit runs the oil pump
the kit has a small shaft .that goes into the back of the oil pump
and you fit the cog to run the chain from the crankshaft

the timing chain and its guides are fitted as normal

you will need to find a high tensile bolt to
replace special bolt A on the right hand guide for the timing belt

see attached pic

its easier to get to the adjuster with the centre console removed

location
above the front engine mount bracket
slightly to the right of the oil sender
facing the engine bay
normally hidden under a metal shield

size bolt is 9/16 AF spanner or socket will do

it is a tapered thread so tightens as you do up
do not overtighten

apply stag or similar to the thread
tighten till firm

removal for Trailing arm bushes sedan

this is on a TN auto wagon
to replace
tools 22mm 14 mm 12 mm sockets and spanners
extension and T bar
floor jack
car stands

put car up on two car stands
undo front tyres
undo and remove the gearbox and engine side mounts
undo aircon and alternator belts
undo 22mm bolt of the timing pully

tilt and support motor with a floor jack
till the pully will slide off the keyway
free of the chassis

fit new seal ( approx $21) from repco

refit belts and mounts

power rack and pinion steer to remove

Oil to use is DEXTRON lll automatic oil or mitsubishi genuine for this system

power rack and pinion steer to remove
undo tie rod ends
more info
to replace the tie rod ends only
undo tie rod nut / release from steering knuckle undo locking nut /count number of turns to remove/ fit replacement with the same number of turns / then tighten lock nu

remove power steering rack
full passenger lock on the rack
undo powersteering oil pipes at the rack 17 MM
(dont loose or damage the 0 rings or threads)
pull back the boot at the bottom of the steering column in the engine bay
undo the nut of the universal joint at the steering rack
spread the split yoke at the bolt hole .

under the car

undo exhaust pipe (at the manifold) 14 MM
undo the chassis brace front engine mount and (shock if there is one) 14 MM
undo the holding brackets of the rack and pinion sterring unit 17 MM
let the unit drop down
slide as far over to the passenger side

then clear from the body driverside
and slide the unit out at the drivers side of the car

refitting is in the reverse
to bleed the air out of the power steering
with the engine only cranking over
move the s/wheel side to side making sure the refill reseviour doenst run out of oil.

centralise the rack
by turning the pinion with multigrips full lock and then to the other lock and counting the number of turns. Then turn it back to centre by halving that number.

steering boot replacement

the rack stays in

the hardest part is fitting the inner part of the boot
to the rack

you have to get underneath the car

have the steering rack at full lock so the boot isnt expanded

using thin blunt screwdriver

you start streching the boot then twist the boot as you go
around till it slips on to the rack propper

there is a small metal plate held on by 4 bolts on the lower control arm
you can undo for an easier go at the rack

for fixing the boot strap a plastic tie is easier than a metal one

repco sell the universal boots for less than $20
with care you may have to cut the rack end of the boot to size

Timing chains:

I have recently bought a timing chain kit for my TM it was a "NASON" brand, there were no timing marks on the chains, counted the links on the old chians and then marked the new chains.

the last picture does that apply to carbie models with he pressure regulator solenoid?

the last picture does that apply to carbie models with he pressure regulator solenoid?

last layout is for EFI seems the carbie vacume diagrame layout covers all TM to TP

Whats the motor like without the balance shafts?? Any noticeable extra vibration?? Cheers Vee

better than having them in

the vibration is minimal

you do get better performance out of the motor

suited to a manual gearbox not so good for an auto

to do you need a sump gasket
the kit is aprox $60
timing cover gasket kit from repco $?

from old fart with thanks



http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/Scan10006Large.jpg

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/Scan10005Large.jpg


http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/1Large.jpg

Where can you get the kits these days? they dont seem to be on ebay anymore?

Highly recommend doing this


better than having them in

the vibration is minimal

you do get better performance out of the motor

suited to a manual gearbox not so good for an auto

to do you need a sump gasket
the kit is aprox $60
timing cover gasket kit from repco $?

Left blank for TM specific problems

try repco or bursons

for ebay
type in "balance shaft elimination kit"
and several kits show up as of april 2012

I got the rocker cover gasket
and sump gasket from repco

3 positive 4 negative
need led tester or a volt meter with a sweeping arm
specific information found in "emmisions and engine control systems" in repair manual
for testing/checking / diagnosis and clearing codes after diagnosis

and http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/tpdiagnosticplug.jpg (http://s253.photobucket.com/user/magnabuff/media/tpdiagnosticplug.jpg.html)

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/TPdiagnosticchart.jpg (http://s253.photobucket.com/user/magnabuff/media/TPdiagnosticchart.jpg.html)

..

Tranny Codes
There are fail safe codes but its quicker just replace the tranny ECU

LED numbers
11 is normal -
31 flashed 4 times means replace the tranny computer
.
the diagnostic charts uses codes numbers through to 36
this is the diagnostic point for the automatic .
http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/diag_plug_128.jpg (http://s253.photobucket.com/user/magnabuff/media/diag_plug_128.jpg.html)

forum topics first started in 2004
The First gen forum has 101 pages of topics many more posts

If search function Isnt helpful look here go to page number and work back

A brief index covering the years past topics to help First Genners

Most details ,pics or data have been lost but for a few
normal problems with the model asked every other year wont be added

2004 start page 101 end page at 86---(15 pages)
A TM turbo carby presented
Rocker rollers discussed
TN and a TP manual conversion done
cold air intake carby http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11889
lowering

2005 start at 86 end at 63---(23 )
EFI running gas
2006 start at 63 end at 47---(16 )
2007 start at 47 end at 33---(14)
2008 start at 33 end at 25---(08)
2009 start at 25 end at 20---(05)
2010 start at 20 end at 14---(06)
2011 start at 14 end at 09---(05)
2012 start at 09 end at 05--(04)
2013 start at 05 end at 01---(05)

The lower balance shaft can be removed with the oil pump while the engine is still in the car. If fitting a balance shaft elimination kit, what if I just left the upper balance shaft in place with no sprocket or chain?

Thank you! Very much appreciated

I pulled the upper balance shaft out with engine in the car as far as it would move. Lopped off with angle grinder after i had covered up all the front of the motor and then pulled the remaining piece out and put in the blanking plug. Done 100k since no problems. Cheers Vee