View Full Version : 4cyl TR -> V6 Auto box?
RuSSiaN
12-09-2006, 10:39 PM
Does anyone know what needs to be fixed/replaced if I was to get a V6 auto installed, and is it possible to do?
RuSSiaN
12-09-2006, 10:48 PM
Also I would like to fit a new Steering wheel as the other is faded
if anyone is selling one let me know OR know's what models will fit - let me know
+ if anyone is selling a ashtray for a TR let me know also, I need a new one
veradabeast
13-09-2006, 08:35 AM
It can be done, as the transaxles fitted to both vehicles were the same. The F4A/33 was fitted to both the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder injected motors. The only difference that you might find is the number of splines on the drive shafts. From memors, the 4 cylinder models had 25 splines, and the 6 cylinder models had 28 splines.
So, to do a conversion, you'll need the transmission itself, the engine intermediate shaft, both driveshafts, and the l/h and r/h wheel hubs.
You'll also need to lift the motor out to do the conversion, as access to the intermediate shaft is pretty impossible from underneath.
Rob_D
13-09-2006, 09:23 AM
There were 25 and 27 splined transmissions fitted to both the 4 and 6 cylinder eci's. You might be lucky to get the right one.
Rob
GoTRICE
13-09-2006, 09:47 AM
You'll also need to lift the motor out to do the conversion, as access to the intermediate shaft is pretty impossible from underneath.
just on this point i disagree, you have to pull the lhs intermediate shaft and drive shaft out to lift the engine... ie i did on jackstands and the exhaust shop did it when making my manifold, the engine had to remain in of course and the intermediate shaft is directly in the way of the rear exhaust ports...
veradabeast
13-09-2006, 10:31 AM
just on this point i disagree, you have to pull the lhs intermediate shaft and drive shaft out to lift the engine... ie i did on jackstands and the exhaust shop did it when making my manifold, the engine had to remain in of course and the intermediate shaft is directly in the way of the rear exhaust ports...
You don't need to remove the intermediate shaft if you're lifting the engine and transaxle out together, although if you're just removing the transaxle it will need to come out, as it's fitted into the differential.
There were 25 and 27 splined transmissions fitted to both the 4 and 6 cylinder eci's. You might be lucky to get the right one.
The 25 splined driveshafts were fitted to 4 cylinders due to lower torque outputs, while the 27 splined driveshafts were fitted to V6s for higher torque. The V6 driveshafts were also thicker for the same reason.
Rob_D
13-09-2006, 11:02 AM
The 25 splined driveshafts were fitted to 4 cylinders due to lower torque outputs, while the 27 splined driveshafts were fitted to V6s for higher torque. The V6 driveshafts were also thicker for the same reason.
????????
How come?
The General data section of the workshop manual list both for both manual and auto.
Rob
veradabeast
13-09-2006, 11:11 AM
If you go to page 17 in the manual, you'll see that certain subtypes of transaxle need the 27 spline driveshafts. It's due to the gear ratios. Mostly it was DOHC engined and Verada models that got 27 spline shafts.
RuSSiaN
13-09-2006, 01:04 PM
just got quoted for a total overhaul
$1600max for my TR auto box
paying that much on a car that cant sell for that much is a pain in the *** hard
my overdrive band is wrecked (just revs out, gut feeling its either snapped, or completly come off) same as A/T mode
First gear has recently died, however all the other gears above 40kph work and run fine
Might see if they can fix just that gear and the overdrive, might take it in next week to see, I really dont want to pay $1000.00+ for my autobox
veradabeast
13-09-2006, 01:31 PM
Hurts hey.
Unfortunately transmission shops like to charge for FWD... A mate at work got the auto in his VS commodore completely overhauled for $400...
If you've got the patience and motivation, do the conversion. You might be lucky and pick up a low K auto.
RuSSiaN
13-09-2006, 01:43 PM
I wish I could find someone to do it all for around the $700 price
anyway ill take it in and see what they have to say, let them run the tests on etc
hopefully can repair it all, without overhaul or put in a change-over with a warranty for a good price
Gas_Hed
13-09-2006, 02:47 PM
Do you have mechanic mates?
Set aside a weekend, buy some beer and something for the BBQ and invite the mates around for some assistance, call them first to see if they can get some reco parts or used parts from the wreckers (they may even get trade prices) and have a good old time.
This way all the blokes get to feel useful as those who arent mechanical can cook the BBQ and then if you dont get it all done in one day then youse can have a few beers and get back into it the next morning.
I NEVER pay for mechanics anymore, just research it yourself first to make sure you have a vague idea whats going on and be willing to get under the car and get your hands dirty, I hate when Im doing a favour and the owner of the car doesnt even offer to lend a hand.
A Gregorys/Haynes manual will also help, if not theres always the PDF download available on here.
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