I'm planning to replace the water pump on my V6 TR in the next week. Have been in there before to change the timing belt so that part is OK.

I would like to change the crankshaft front seal and the camshaft seals too. Are there any major traps in doing this?

Any tips on the best way to do it?

I do have the Mitsi Workshop Manuals and a reasonable supply of tools.

TIA.

Rob

Getting the seals out can be difficult. Firstly, before you remove the old seals check how far they have been seated into the casing, note this distance. Also check if manual has any detail. Best way to remove old seal is to hammer a nail into the seal, only to create a small hole (behind the rubber is metal), then scew a self tapper into the seal (wood scews used for laminated board etc are great for this, they are normally bugle head and available at Bunnings etc in packets, but any self tapping type screw will work). Be careful and make sure screw does not touch the shaft, nor the casing. You don't have to screw it in far, only a few thread. Now grip it with vice grips and maybe use a bar/screw drive as a lever and remove the seal. Once the seal starts moving it becomes easy.You can pull it off at and angle?skew. If you can get it to rotate/turn on shaft (in the casing) it will come out easily.

From Memory one of the seals was available only from Mits and the others available from Auto One etc, but I got all or most of them from local bearing company at half the price about $10 each (and they just looked it up on their database).

From MEMORY THE SEALS sit about flash or 1mm inside the casing.
Lube the inside of the seal before inserting it (oil). Don't lube the outside, chap at bearing place said it could then come out. Place the seal in position and push it squarely in until it just sits in the casing.

In order to push the seals in straight I got some PVC piping (plumbing white pipe) of suitable diameter and cut lengths and used the bolts (with washers) to screw the seals in.

You might also have trouble loosening the bolts on the crankshaft. I made up a tool to hold the crankshaft sprocket. Just some square tubing (could use pipe), with 2 holes drilled thru and bolts thru the holes. Position the tool with the bolts fitting into the spaces in the sprocket and you can hold the sprocket while the nut is loosened.

IMPORTANT renew the oil seal on the distributor (the big one, about 1 1/2 to 2 inch diameter,there is also a small one, which is the one the dealers always identify first, then you have to tell tehm you want the big one also).First time round I did not change this and 10 000 kilometres later it started leaking. Long story short, took me months to find leak and by that time the oil had stuffed lower control arm rubber bush.

Best of luck.

Thanks for that.

At present I'm stuck with the crankshaft pulley nut. It's too tight.

Have been using a 3/4 inch drive socket bar and a bit of pipe over it. No go.

Borrowed a rattle gun but its a cheap one and isn't doing anything. Am wondering if I need to buy a good one.

Tried the 2 bolts through the length of tube to hold the pulley and even with 11 mm dia bolts all I did was tear the walls of the 30mm square tube. Bent some high tensile bolts too. Will try some stronger tube tomorrow. Then it and the 3/4 socket bar and pipe may work.

Fingers crossed.

Rob

I did my camshaft seals when I replaced the cambelt about 9 months ago. Reasonably straight forward but like dickie77 said, be careful you don't damage the either surface where the seal is placed.

Make sure you dont push the seals into the head either otherwise its rocker covers off.

A trick you can try with the crank bolt is putting a big bar, ratchet or similar on the crank bolt then rest the other end on a solid part of the car then flick the key a couple of times. The engine will turn a bit but the bolt will loosen. Only try this if you know what your doing though.

Thanks No name,

Will give that a try tomorrow.

Guess I'll do it with the plugs out to make it easier to turn over and to be sure it doesn't start.

Rob

Yes, try cranking it a few times to get that bolt off, I did this today on my KR, changed the water pump and timing belt, pretty easy, much easier then the TE thats for sure.

Also make sure you mark the old timing belt where the timing marks are with some white crayon, and put a few marks on the bottom crank and run them to the old belt as well, then get your new belt and transfer these marks onto it, makes it soooo much easier when installing the new belt as you know it is in the right spot first time.

Also found with the power steering pump to get it back in is easier to remove the top hose off it to wiggle it in, otherwise you'll end up cursing the thing.

Thank you for the starter motor idea.

It worked first go.

Absolutely terrific idea.

Now back to the rest of the job.

Rob

[QUOTE=heydude]Yes, try cranking it a few times to get that bolt off, I did this today QUOTE]


:P I done it doday,2 cranks was enough to undo bolt.:2cool: