In the Long process of getting new heads.

Now we've (me and my nannu) taken off the front rocker cover, air Intake, intake plenium, intake runners, fuel rail, front exhaust manifold, rear exhaust manifold, and loosened one of the belts.

Now were sorta up to the cams.
For some reason the power steering pump wont come off, dont know why....but at least the bolts are out, anyway, to get to the RHS cam gear, how can i take the cover off? ive taken the bolts out of the cover and it moves up and down but without taking the powersteering pump out i dont see the cover coming off.
Question is how can i get to the cam gear?

Ive marked the timing location for the LHS cam gear so thats ok.

But any advice please! my nannu and i will be working on it again later tonight and its a ***** of a job, just need as much info as possible

Here are some pics of what happens to your intake and exhaust ports after 3+ years of having smoke billow out the end, its an easy 2+mm of oily sludge.

Hopefully after they are done (should be next week) i get 1) no smoke, 2) a smoother drive

see if you cant get this spray made by subaru... i cant remember what it is but some wrx had problems with build up on the valves... spray it on the valves and it should help that... sludge disapear, blows white smoke for a few minutes so dont park anywhere with the car running, just drive off, people will think u've just blown a head gasket lol

oh and razor blade across the exhaust ports... keep em flat and clean...

see if you cant get this spray made by subaru... i cant remember what it is but some wrx had problems with build up on the valves... spray it on the valves and it should help that... sludge disapear, blows white smoke for a few minutes so dont park anywhere with the car running, just drive off, people will think u've just blown a head gasket lol

oh and razor blade across the exhaust ports... keep em flat and clean...
Carby Cleaner? Combustion Chamber Cleaner?

Looking in both manuals it doesnt say much on how to remove them (the power steering pump) just says "remove it" basically..

Eh well ill keep it updated just in case anyone with a V6 is going to do their heads too

from memory it's 2 bolts and losen the tensioner...

from memory it's 2 bolts and losen the tensioner...

Should be avin' a fiddle round tonight with it so yeah ill see how it goes.
Um also got any ideas for holing both cam gears up in the same position for a few days? Was just going to get a cable tie and run that through the cam gear hole thingy and round the outside....

:confused:

Take the crankshaft pulley off, remove lower plastic cover over timing belt (all bolts, especially the middle one.), remove cover on RH cam belt gear.

Also borrow the car manual from the library, eeeeeasyyyyy. I have done it.

Hope this helps

Take the cranshaft pulley off, remove lower plastic cover over timing belt (all bolts, especially the middle one.), remove cover on RH cam belt gear.

Also borrow the car manual from the library, eeeeeasyyyyy. I have done it.

Hope this helps

Sweet man, thanks a ton for that.
I have the haynes manual and the whole workshop manual on the comp so yeah i got em.

Thanks again lol, spent a good hour trying to get the 2 c**nts of bolts off that hold the power steering pump on.

Err any more advice?

The bolts that hold the power steering pump on should not be an issue, gently lift the power steering pump vertical to remove bolts.

Go slow and just GENTLTY lever the pump towards the left guard when the bolts have been withdrawn.

The biggest asset in any repair is a bright 12v or 240v light(be careful). With the light comes answers. ( I am not takin' the mickey out of anyone, light is the key, don't get electrocuted)

This is a simple process, go slow.

Hope this helps

BTW don't say .... 2 c**nts of bolts ... sad to read, just go slow.

yeah i have a crappy work light atm....use's a house globe:confused:

Ok and for the power steering pump there anrt any more hidden screws or anything? just the two located close to the LHS cam gear?

Is thats all sweet, one more Q, how did you hold the cam gears in location? i.e. with no cam or head there

The power steering pump is held in by 2 bolts that go through the body of it that you access through 2 holes in its pulley.

Then you can slide it up in its mounting bracket to get at the other bolts that hold the mounting bracket in. They are hidden until you lift the pump up in the bracket.

Rob

The power steering pump is held in by 2 bolts that go through the body of it that you access through 2 holes in its pulley.

Then you can slide it up in its mounting bracket to get at the other bolts that hold the mounting bracket in. They are hidden until you lift the pump up in the bracket.

Rob

Yeah I found it hard to get it out as well, remove the two bolts from the pulley side of the pump, the pump should be free now, then I removed the top high pressure line from the pwr steering pump and the thing nearly slid out, but without taking the high pressure line off it was a mungrel to even get out, so try that, and keep a rag handy cause the oil just keeps on flowing out of it.

Yeah I found it hard to get it out as well, remove the two bolts from the pulley side of the pump, the pump should be free now, then I removed the top high pressure line from the pwr steering pump and the thing nearly slid out, but without taking the high pressure line off it was a mungrel to even get out, so try that, and keep a rag handy cause the oil just keeps on flowing out of it.

Awesome, thanks for the help people, Im going to have a handy helper come over tomorrow to help me all day so im keeping ma fingers crossed we get em off tomorrow!

Heads are now off.

Really good having someone there who knows what there doing as it made the whole process seem so damn easy!

Pistons have a bit of biult up muck on em so im getting rid of that with some elbow grease and come carby cleaner, they look like new :D

what else.....Replaced thermostat and water pump aswell, thermostat was rooted but the water pump looked fine, i replaced it anyway just for piece of mind.

so atm everythings laying on the floor, and tomorerow about 5 cans of degreaser will be used on various parts and such to cleaner er up a bit, shes a tad oily everywhere.

Now how do i clean the surface of the block for the new gasket? i was going to use some co**** sandpaper but i just want to double check what else can be done in this situation, heads will most likely be going on within a week so i need to get this done soonish

Any help appreciated as its a big job, but the hard parts outta the way i guess, cant wait to have no more smoke being blown out the rear hehehe

-Paul

How much do you reckon this whole thing will set you back?

Mine's heading towards 200K, so I'm wondering if I may as well redo the lot in one hit, rather than just the timing belt and water pump. Valve stem seals probably should be done, etc., so might be better, cheaper and easier to just pull the lot out and do it all in one hit...

Apart from that, I think my engine is in pretty good nick, so I think getting a reco'd engine may actually give me one that is in poorer condition!

think i left my work overalls at ur place... lol

..no matter mate... good luck with the rest of the process and have fun with the cleaning lol. Looks like theres a fair bit of work ahead of ya.

left your overalls? what were you boys really up to??? sounds good dude im sure you'll have a very nice happy engine after a nice clean, how many kays you done?

left your overalls? what were you boys really up to??? sounds good dude im sure you'll have a very nice happy engine after a nice clean, how many kays you done?

haha idiot lol Umm its going onto about 215 xxxk's.
and yeah i just saw the overalls today....if you need them that bad ill post the out to you:P

Rogue.....Its going to cost about $400 for the reco heads, so far ive spent about $60 on the new water pump, about $20 on the thermostat and gasket, $12 on gasket goo...and yeah you'll need a good 1/2" rachet set....something i didnt have:doubt:

Oh and your gonna need a 10mm Hex key from autobarn, c**nts are alsmot $20 for just one bit:rant:

So in the end im thinking about $600ish all up which, is still a $200+ saving in my pocket at the end of the day, plus when you give it to the mechs to do, they dont change ya water pump or thermostat, or back flush ya radiator.....so the savings keep going...

And yeah its only "worth" it if you know someone who can help ya.....if they havent worked on a magna before its of no help trust me haha.

These are the heads!!!! Check out the crap on the exhaust ports!!
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/dghfg004.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/dghfg006.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a52/dodgeviper89/dghfg002.jpg


EDIT****

IM guessing its the middle one that had the bung stem seal :bowrofl:

hey paul , u going to have to car ready for ur cruise when u get ps

hey paul , u going to have to car ready for ur cruise when u get ps

Yep...
Even though ive been doing the car up for some amount of time my thoughts were i was just going to get the stem seals done = Day job

After talking to some people from here it worked out much better for me to do the heads, doing some quick research i found out it was possible for me to have the car up and running in about 2 weeks.

So far im 50% through, heads should be here thursday which leaves me a good 8 days to get them on and everything working again.

Hope to see everyone soonish:D