Hi everybody! I'm a new member and very impressed with the amount of information on the forum. That has already helped solve a few problems but I still have some questions. I will post them one at a time but first, some history:

My first Magna was a TM auto sedan (carby engine) bought new in 1987 but written off in an accident in 2002. Great car! 15 years use and cost zero for parts or repairs other than filters and a muffler.

I then bought a 1991 EFI TP auto wagon which I still own. It's done over 255,000 km and getting a bit tired, so I just bought an 89 TP auto sedan with carby engine and 64,000 km on the clock. In most respects the sedan is like new but a bit neglected.

Now for the question (this is the TP carby engine and auto trans). The idle speed is far too fast, both cold and hot. Backing off the fast idle screw has had some effect and got the idle back to about 1,100 rpm. However the idle speed screw (the one with the big plastic knob) has no effect at all, hot or cold) Why would this be and what signals the transition from cold to hot?

The auto choke needs further adjustment as it only opens partially when it warms up. The choke adjustment screw and locknut have been loctited and I can't budge them but I've adjusted the choke as much as possible with its pinion plate and made some improvement (at least now it opens a bit). However, even if I manually hold the choke fully open, the carby's idle speed screw has no effect at all, even when backed off till it is about to fall off. I don't understand. Why?

regards,
Coldamus

PM Stagma or Magna Buff......they're the resident 1st gen boffins, 1 of them should be able to sort yur problem out.:D

Welcome aboard and feel free to ask for help.:D

Seeing you have he EFI gear you could take it off the old car and put it onto the new car...

:stoopid:

Thanks for the help, everyone. Sorry to be so slow replying. I've been running around all day getting the blue slip inspection done and effecting the new registration. (I bought it unregd.) Quite a relief to get that over.

I will have another go at the choke adjustment tomorrow and report back. Once the idle is right, I will try to set the TPS. I've checked its resistance and get 5.2k ohms total which is within specs.

Yes, the thought did cross my mind to swap the EFI gear over but it was only a brief thought - too much work for me.

Thanks again. I will let you know how it goes.

regards,
Coldamus

Ok, I had another go at the choke adjustment. Still couldn't move the locknut or adjusting screw despite attacking them with a big pair of pliers. Anyway, at least I got the alignment marks matched up. I loosened the pinion plate and moved the little green plastic gear around so that, when re-meshed with the gear on the pinion plate, its mark now aligns with the mark on the pinion plate.

I've got the idle rpm back to about 800, which is much more reasonable.

I couldn't see any plug in the idle mixture control but decided not to mess with that as it is running quite well. My only concern now is that the choke still does not come off fully.

I also fitted a new thermostat as I was worried the previous owner might have removed it altogether. In fact there was an existing thermostat that looked very new but had been fitted back to front.

regards,
Coldamus

PM Stagma or Magna Buff......they're the resident 1st gen boffins, 1 of them should be able to sort yur problem out.:D

Welcome aboard and feel free to ask for help.:D
Rude, you forgot to mention me :P

Now for the question (this is the TP carby engine and auto trans). The idle speed is far too fast, both cold and hot. Backing off the fast idle screw has had some effect and got the idle back to about 1,100 rpm. However the idle speed screw (the one with the big plastic knob) has no effect at all, hot or cold) Why would this be and what signals the transition from cold to hot?

The auto choke needs further adjustment as it only opens partially when it warms up. The choke adjustment screw and locknut have been loctited and I can't budge them but I've adjusted the choke as much as possible with its pinion plate and made some improvement (at least now it opens a bit). However, even if I manually hold the choke fully open, the carby's idle speed screw has no effect at all, even when backed off till it is about to fall off. I don't understand. Why?

regards,
Coldamus

Hi, I am also new here! I had the same problem, idle way too fast and idle screw no effect at all!! The choke was always closed, thermostat broken (used about 14L/100k) and I had been driving afterwards with a clip to keep the choke always open (then consumption dropped to 11L/100k with new thermostat). I got the idle down to normal by adjusting the choke adjustment screw and locknut. Automatic choke is now working perfectly and fuel consumption around 9L/100k (on a good week).

The idle adjustment screw still has no effect at all, does anyone know if it rerquires vacuum to operate that adjustment screw?? Because most of the vacuum in my system is gone for some reason.

The other thing is, engine runs perfect and idles perfect until after a trip on the motorway and am waiting for a traffic light. After a minute waiting (or so) the temp goes up a little (but gauge still before centre) and the idle gets very rough, engine shaking, missing 1 or 2 cylinders seems like. When engine cools down a bit, all is fine again. Why could that be???

Thanks!!
Michel

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40090

not easy to get right :confused:

ps old fart answered your vaccume problem in the other forum
I followed up your questions also you are doing fine

yes, I got it, it's great but I actually don't think the problem is caused by a lack in the vacuum lines. I just had a look at it again, and I actually think I got a leak in the head gasket. I recently replaced the radiator cap and water pressure is now higher than before. It seems like water is leaking into the 2nd cylinder (checked my plugs, this one is quite rusty). Maybe because the temp goes up a bit while waiting, this increases the pressure and coolant gets into the cylinder making the mixture to moistures to ignite. ?? Does that sound reasonable??

Oh jee, replacing the gasket is a lot of work, isn't it? I never done that before..... Is it worth doing it?

Michel

relpacing the gasket isn't hard just more of a pain in the neck and it takes a bit of time.

but thats the part i wouldn't worry about. if ur head gasket is leaking why??

hopefully the head or block isn't cracked or warped from over heating in it's life time.

so if u need ive got a manual that tells u how to take off the head and what to do to replace the head gasket and everything else that was taken off provided the head and block are good. u just don't want to do it and find out 100kays down the road that it keeps leaking.

so if i was in ur shoes id buy the vrs full gasket kit of ebay for $59 + postage and a tube of gasket goo just to be safe. id first take off the head and inspect for hairline cracks or wrapage with a straight flat square edge of some kind. then if it all looks in order then replace the gaskets and put it all back the way it was making sure not to tighten the head bolts too tight or they will snap (being soft alloy that they are). then 300kays down the track re-tenion the head bolts.

and hope that it was just the gasket. but thats my 2cents for today.

but thats the part i wouldn't worry about. if ur head gasket is leaking why??


Yes, you're right, why would it be leaking, maybe it is warped or something? I was wondering, isn't there anything on the market that you mix with the coolant that can stop tiny leaks?? That would be great! If it's not there yet, someone should invent it!!

Michel

if it's been warped from over heating from the last owner there not much u can do but replace thehead. and if u find u do need to replace the head just go to the wreckers and get a head off a tr\ts. the chambers are better shaped for better flow and they have roller rockers which lets it rev better and make it feel more powerfull (even though ur not really getting more power).

stagma did this to his 1st gen wagon and has made a huge difference from what everyones says. plus it only cost him about 40 bucks for the 2nd gen head with roller rocker and the cam to suit.

the quick fix product for cracks slight warps or gasket problems is called chemi weld but it clogs up the radiator -you still have to fix the problem

OK, magna buff, what if I try this chemi weld, drive for a week (or so) and then flush the radiator, add new coolant?? Chemi weld sounds like something I was looking for :)

Is that available at super cheap or repco?

OK, I got myself a bottle of that chem-i-weld, I'm gonna give it a go, replacing the head gasket and finding out the head or block has a crack is going to take too much time.... If this chem-i-weld is not as efficient as I am expecting, has anyone every tried "Prestone Heavy Duty Stop Leak" because that's going to be my second choice. If nothing works out, I probably go for another car :(.

I replaced last time my radiator cap for an aunger RC-1500, since then I seem to have leaks everywhere. Does anyone know the rated pressure of that cap? is that 110kPa? I put the old one back today which is a genuine mitsubishi but probably as old as the car itself.... Anyway, with that old cap I have less problems....

yes, I got that RC-1500 from super cheap and it came from that catalog you mentioned. I just can't find anywhere on the package what the rated pressure is as I am expecting it to be higher than the original one. The magna book says 110kPa, my old cap is 110kPa (well, that's when it was new....) and the new RC-1500 gives me problems. So, either the old cap is no longer 110kPa or the new one is over 110kPa.

HAHA, yes, it sounds like a joke maybe. I just joint this club here, that's true, but I bought this car about 3.5 years ago :shock: ! So, it's not that strange that I might buy another one. I am actually searching for a 1991 TP manual EFI with low kms :nuts: . Since I bought this one (with 130,000k at that time) I've been driving 80,000km with it without much problems. Now I am facing this leak, and thinking it might be easier to buy another good magna. It's allright to drive with the old radiator cap, but I want to drive with a new one because if this old cap breaks (for some reason) then I know I can't replace it with a new one. And on the other hand, all the doors are rusting at the bottom :rant: (1 is very bad, maybe too bad for the rego), and I got a leak at my front window too :cry: (when it rains, which is (lucky me) not that often). So, it's a couple of things together, and if I can solve most of them in 1 purchase, then I probably go for it :D

I'm gonna have a look at a manual TP (carbie) tomorrow with 89,000k !! Probably can get it for 800$ (1 month rego, and kenwood stereo :) ), is that an OK price?

I'm gonna have a look at a manual TP (carbie) tomorrow with 89,000k !! Probably can get it for 800$ (1 month rego, and kenwood stereo :) ), is that an OK price?

sounds good to me apart from the carby part

yes, that's the thing, I don't like the carby either. I thought I can always have a look, maybe it is indeed in excellent condition. But the more I think about it, the less I trust it. If I would sell a car that is "in excellent condition" and the rego was almost due, I would at least arrange a new pink slip. And he said he bought it of an old lady, but, do you know old ladies who drive manual cars?? I also asked him to send me a pic from the engine etc, he did send me some pics, but not from the engine.... And no service records either.... Can you trust that?

In fact, you can have a look yourself, it's in the trading post

http://www.autotrader.com.au/iteminfo/adnumber_WY1992809353_loc_locRZSQregtAVSCdistRZSQW estern+SuburbsAVSCstateRZSQ2AVSCregRZSQSydney_off_ 1_sect_Automotive_sort_otRZSQ1BJDZfdRZSQSearchDisp layPriorityIndAVSCotRZSQ1BJDZfdRZSQFirstPublished_ sqt_0_srchby_minyrRZSQ1988AVSCmaxyrRZSQ1991AVSCmmb sRZSQMakeAVSCsrchbyRZSQmkmdlAVSCmkdlsRZSQMitsubish iMRFXMagna_stpg_1_subs_Used+Cars_