I just bought this and maybe another...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&item=320038081784&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

Tell me what you think as I hope they are good.

Beats my Xplod 1200 anyday I say, although not too sure bout the brand.

O MY.

u will get wat u paid for.

I just bought this and maybe another...

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&item=320038081784&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

Tell me what you think as I hope they are good.

Beats my Xplod 1200 anyday I say, although not too sure bout the brand.

tell us what they are like i wouldnt mind looking into them myself.

O MY.

u will get wat u paid for.

600w RMS... why not telling me whats wrong instead of letting me guess...

Looks good on paper, but i've never heard of that brand, so we'll see how it goes.

600w RMS... why not telling me whats wrong instead of letting me guess...


i had a mate who bought a 12" of that sub and it lasted him only 1 month. from what he was told the cone is to weak. it may say its 600w RMS but try putting that much power through that sub and ye you will see the result.

but thats only my opinion from seeing wat happend to a 12" 500wRMS Yokohama sub

thanks

yea i believe you will find its a piece of poo :P structure looks very similar to that of boss audio and whatnot, and considering that one of the other brands the bloke sells IS boss... well, you get the picture :P

depending what Sony you had, itll be better fo sho. Mobile ES etc, even pentagonal will go better.

yea i believe you will find its a piece of poo :P structure looks very similar to that of boss audio and whatnot, and considering that one of the other brands the bloke sells IS boss... well, you get the picture :P

depending what Sony you had, itll be better fo sho. Mobile ES etc, even pentagonal will go better.

Yep looks Identical to BOSS, then again for $32 its a bit of cheap fun, i say pump 600WRMS into it and film the process

']Yep looks Identical to BOSS, then again for $32 its a bit of cheap fun, i say pump 600WRMS into it and film the process

Why? You reckon its RMS would be something to watch? I didnt know BOSS was POS

Why? You reckon its RMS would be something to watch? I didnt know BOSS was POS

lol @ didnt know of BOSS's POSyness

Boss are the most basic cheapest form of car audio available....
Not that its something to watch, just that by looking at its magnat and foam surround she doesnt look like she'll handle more then 300WRMS ....

guess you just gotta see mate!

You learn from yah mistakes dont yah... I'll try it out, and re-sell for more! to noobs like me who dont know i paid too much!

thanks


just letting you know im not putting you or your buy down mate. just stating the obvious and most common saying of "you get wat you pay for" maybe if you dont pump it up much it may last for a bit.

let us know how it goes. :)

We Can make this Work

What we need is a Large Sealed Enclosure, a Custom Designed Job..
Needs to be filled with Dacron so it wont sound Hollow..

We Need to go easy on the Amperage , I say no more then about 60W RMS MAX..
This will give you a Nice Deep Bass Sound without risking the SMOKOHAMA roasting..
I have Taken this path with Several Cheapened subwoofers from Boss to XPLOD and the End Result is Nice Bass but not alot of Power needed..
.

']lol @ didnt know of BOSS's POSyness

Boss are the most basic cheapest form of car audio available....
Not that its something to watch, just that by looking at its magnat and foam surround she doesnt look like she'll handle more then 300WRMS ....

guess you just gotta see mate!
They're not THAT bad, if you get the semi decent stuff (i'm talking semi decent for boss lol) they're not too bad.

Anyone wanna buy a 15" 600WRMS sub? $55 starting bid...

i'll give you 50 cents with free post to me?????

i'll give you $2.... we've been loooking for cheap subs to put 1500RMS into...lol lol

not to be rude my friend but the outer cone is foam adn with a heap of grunt it'll tear more than likely. as said before..get a tuned box and run a little into them and you should get a decent run out of them. try looking for something with a rubber surround on the cone and a dirty big magnet. big magnets need more power to run them by rule of thumb but sometimes it's worth it. i bought a sub from cashies for $120 and it's a cracker. little 10 inch farrenheit. has dual voice coil and takes up to 1000w rms. they retail brand new for about $170 for the 10 and increase about $20 per step up after that. great sub and very cheap. get a jaycar amp behind it and people will hear you for miles away.

good luck mate. just remember not to overpower them and you should be fine.

The thing to look at is speakers - advertised mainly on subs - have two RMS ratings... one (that is on the site) is probably the 'max' rating, which means it should eb able to handle a single burst of 600rms, however, there is usually a constant or reccomended rating of half that number - or less. Mine states "1000RMS max" but is at 500rms constant... and i wouldnt pump any more than 500 into it. I'd imagine yours would be around 200-250 rms - realistically.
But yeah, you get what you pay for.. tell us how it goes.

i'll give you $2.... we've been loooking for cheap subs to put 1500RMS into...lol lol

where are u gonna get 1500rms from??

we could always put 1500rms into that red thing u have in your garage.:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

jokes kev

bitsofmystery, farenheit is a very respected car audio brand, hardly cheap stuff :) and certainly not comparable to the sub in question :P

as for the 1500W RMS... do something cool, build a wall and fill it with stock 4", 6" and 6x9 speakers :) few people i know have done this for laughs, seeing the sparks fly is hilariously good fun :D esp if you build it all, then let rip at an audio competition. awesome entertainment for everyone :D

This is not your standard sub. It's quality and design is what makes this baby stand head and shoulder above all its competitors.

they just didnt mention that its direct competitors are super sound, sound force, sansuii, and all those other supercheap auto brands. lol

where are u gonna get 1500rms from??

we could always put 1500rms into that red thing u have in your garage.:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

jokes kev

hey!

i dont mind.... i got 2 typeR's in the boot now....lol

The thing to look at is speakers - advertised mainly on subs - have two RMS ratings... one (that is on the site) is probably the 'max' rating, which means it should eb able to handle a single burst of 600rms, however, there is usually a constant or reccomended rating of half that number - or less. Mine states "1000RMS max" but is at 500rms constant... and i wouldnt pump any more than 500 into it. I'd imagine yours would be around 200-250 rms - realistically.
But yeah, you get what you pay for.. tell us how it goes.


Max Power 1600 Watts
RMS Power 800 Watts

Its max power is 1600, not 800.... 800 rms is the constant here.

You always get what you pay for specially with subs..:P $32 subs..:nuts:

You always get what you pay for specially with subs..:P $32 subs..:nuts:

:badgrin: $32 for subs, my fuse holder is worth more than that:bowrofl: WTF you thinking????lol

1600 Max = 1600 pp

1600pp / 2 = 800 p

800p * 0.707 = 565 RMS


565 RMS at best i doubt

1600 Max = 1600 pp

1600pp / 2 = 800 p

800p * 0.707 = 565 RMS


565 RMS at best i doubt


where did you get the .707 figure? I remember an equation like this to work out true constant power but not enough to tell u the equation. Where did u get the .707 lol

where did you get the .707 figure? I remember an equation like this to work out true constant power but not enough to tell u the equation. Where did u get the .707 lol
The .707 figure is suppose to be the RMS constant (approx 2/3 of peak). That's why i don't understand audio wattage, because peak should be for example 1600wMAX, then the RMS value should be the average power output (which with electricity is usually the 2/3 or .707 times the peak power, because an electric wave is a sine wave). But i've been told it doesn't work that way in car audio by the sound guru's on these forums so i don't get it. Mitsiboi is wrong though, the 800wrms value is already an rms value, you can't calculate RMS from a value that is already suppore to be the RMS of the peak. Unless of course this is how car audio does it?

alright maths and physics! thats just what i want to read about..


judging by the size of that magnet on the 'sub' i wouldnt expect great sounds from it..

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320038089807&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BID_Stores_IT&refitem=320038081784&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Lol this look almost identical

u kno i might be wrong but thats wat it is in electronics

u kno i might be wrong but thats wat it is in electronics
Ahhh yes you are right in electronics, but because a speakers output isn't a perfect sine wave like electricity is, it's not as simple as using that rule. Because it's not a perfect sine wave you then have to calculate averages and stuff (well to my understanding anyway) and that's where audio rms comes into it.

EG. you can get 1500wmax amps that only produce 40wrms, whenever there is a massive different in max power and rms power, you know it's not going to perform very well.

Haha i wonder how much it costs to actually make probably like $5 each lol. They are only $32 so if they blow, who cares ?

I remember ages ago i bought 2 x10 subs from cash converters that had no power rating, no numbers, anything. They were just 2 black speakers with permanent grills attached. They were brand new but really old stock.

I made an odd box with one speaker on the outside, and the other one inside in the middle. I had a massive amp and when turned up loud, it felt like my chest was caving in and would cause me to cough! I loved it. This was for my computer BTW not my car :D


Cheap speakers are good fun :D

^^ Issues...

']http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320038089807&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BID_Stores_IT&refitem=320038081784&itemcount=4&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=StoreCatToStoreCat&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget

Lol this look almost identical


its blue id bay $85 for that lol

Love the box, "Built with USA technologdger"

peak power -> RMS you divide by SQRT(2) (if we gettin technical)

so there :P

oh, and that sub is more than ppl pay for the cabling to run a sub...so ummm i know! just run rca's to a discman :P

since when has MAX ratings ever meant anything in car audio :P

and since when has 'the size of a magnet' ever had any say in what a speaker sounds like, or now loud it goes?

http://www.teamrocs.com/images/reviews/speakers/idq10.jpg
Image Dynamics Q sub, tiny magnet, decent loud, and insanely good sounding :)

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/images/subT9922_JackHammer.jpg
MTX Jackhammer.. freakin massive magnet, gay, quiet, sloppy, gay, and oh.. gay

I have a Sh!tty 12inch sub in my car (cheap brand). It sounds fine through my alpine amp in low pass. Box is everything though. Unless your an audiophile they will sound fine! If it has a big spider, vented coil and thick rubber it will take a pounding. RMS values on car speakers have me baffled. My home theatre kicken out 60w RMS is enough to shift things in the room. Yes car stuff is 4 ohm but still ... 600w rms woofers and stuff i'd love to see any speaker under $3000 handle 600w of true rms power :P So long as you can sing and not here yourself your fine lol

My home theatre kicken out 60w RMS is enough to shift things in the room.

home theatre also has acoustics and alot of free air to push around to deliver more bass, as well as the fact the bassy speakers are always kept sitting on the floor, so the sound uses ur floorboards as an extension of the speaker box, and the waves pass thru it, enhancing the feeling of bass, and moving stuff! a car boot however has a fraction of the free air, and alot of metal to try to push the waves thru, and the metal doesnt move as much as wood, so the bass is not as heavy at 60W RMS. if u put home theatre speakers and subwoofers on a concrete floor, i'm guessing u'd notice bugger all of the bass effect, as describe above!

did that help a lil? :P

i'm pretty sure the difference in voltage and ohms would have something to do with home theatre vs car audio too?

Yeah ohms play a part in volume and distortion etc. I reckon ya just bog up your boot and port the bass into the cab lol

600????????? I thought it was 800W RMS. Small magnet od the lil bugger too. so i doubt it will excursion too much

Well, you wanted to see it...
But because of my lack of funds at my age and my car being fairly close to stock, I ran it at about 400w in no box and took the vid...

HERE IT IS (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VYHiS4qbLI)

hmm looks aight... jst wonder how long it will last...

hmm looks aight... jst wonder how long it will last...
Eh it was $35
Should of got like 6 of them, made a huge ass box and gone cruising round the nighbourhood with it:bowrofl:

']Eh it was $35
Should of got like 6 of them, made a huge ass box and gone cruising round the nighbourhood with it:bowrofl:

or chapel bro... sik mate, sik subwoofa

or chapel bro... sik mate, sik subwoofa
Sik mate, Sik, Canary:bowrofl:

Well, you wanted to see it...
But because of my lack of funds at my age and my car being fairly close to stock, I ran it at about 400w in no box and took the vid...

HERE IT IS (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VYHiS4qbLI)

Ignore the people who have commented on you wasting your time buying a sub for $35. Not all of us are prepared to go and finance a boot full of audio gear.

Take care of the sub, box it appropriately and make sure you don't push it too hard and allow it to distort and you'll have a good start for a system you can upgrade at will.

Ignore the people who have commented on you wasting your time buying a sub for $35. Not all of us are prepared to go and finance a boot full of audio gear.

Take care of the sub, box it appropriately and make sure you don't push it too hard and allow it to distort and you'll have a good start for a system you can upgrade at will.

Thanks alot man... yes I am on budget as only 18 but I don't really want it now is my thing. I have Xplod in a box which i find is more comforting than Yokohama... IDK... wish sum1 would buy it off me for $35.

But no 1 will...

Thanks alot man... yes I am on budget as only 18 but I don't really want it now is my thing. I have Xplod in a box which i find is more comforting than Yokohama... IDK... wish sum1 would buy it off me for $35.

But no 1 will...

Express post it at your cost to me in Perth and i'll gladly deposit $35 into your account :P

i bought that exact same sub from that exact same place! i got mine for $50, wired it up, tried it, but coz it wasnt in a box it was just flapping around, was looking forward to boxing it and seeing how it went, but my mate with a riced up lancer saw the chrome underside and offered me $100 coz he wanted to reverse mount it in his car, so i sold it to him.
all the best with it.