Hi Guys,

I have a tr 4cyl efi auto magna which i have just bought problem i have is

The car seems to idle ok in park but once its put into drive its idle is rought sits at about 500rpm as opposed to 900 in park is there anyway i can adjust so when its in drive it doesnt run rought.

Thanks Mark.

EFI or Carbi? (I dont know if some TS/TR come carbi)

If its EFI, there is a screw with a lock nut which slightly pushes the throttle open. You can use this, or you can use the idle bypass, which is a screw on the throttle body which is like a tap, allowing more or less idle air through a passage in the throttle body.

I am not sure if there is a set proceedure to get it working well with the idle control of the motor though, I have not had much to do with EFI astrons.

If youve got Bband the factory manual is here

http://www.thehammer.net/magna/

Its in pdf format (adobe acrobat) and its a great free download..:D

yes there are carby in the TR/TS i owned one, so does alittlekidsbike, anyways they are the GLX botton range, read the service manual from that link they are all in there how to do it :D

DONT adjust the screw that moves the butterfly!!!!!!

There is a screw that's on top of the T/B that is the idle adjustment. The one that adjusts the butterfly is set from the factory and should never need to be touched. The only time it gets adjusted is if the TPS is being reset.

hm same thing is happning to me, cept it does this in P and when in D it just dies....

The problem you stated is apparently very common. There is heaps written about the topic on this forum with no end of suggestions and frustration emanating. Like most, I have tried everything without success so far. The solution most people seem to adopt is the bandaid effect of dropping the car back to neutral whenever you sit at lights to stop the annoying shudder through the car.

I can tell you that changing the idle screw does not fix the problem. It will only increase your overall idling (including neutral), consume heaps more fuel and develop a desire to take off when sitting at the lights - thereby increasing wear & tear on your brakes etc. Realistically though, the ISC (idle speed control) servo, the FAIV (fast air idle valve) and the ECU (engine control unit) will all work to to continually reset the idle back to the set position.

So far I have changed the TPS, the idle control motor, and even the throttle body. I have adjusted the accelerator pedal switch & throttle cable to specifications. I have tested all the sensors and have even changed my fuel injectors and the fuel filter. None of these have made any difference to the problem. My TCU reports no faults in the transmission though I even did an oil change on that to ensure I had the specified tranny oil.

Having exhausted all suggestions so far, I am working on the theory that the cooling system might be at fault, specifically thermostat, coolant sensor or the coolant temperature sender . This is based on the fact that the coolant temperature apparently determines where the ECU directs the idling be set.

I've removed the sensors to find they were totally caked with the crud that circulates through the cooling system. Testing the sensors alone may not necessarily indicate a problem because whilst they may be functional in operation, due to the thick coating of crud they may not necessarily be performing accurately. The housing too was a total mud pit - particularly around the coolant sensor where a pooling effect seems inevitable. It is difficult to imagine the sensors could be functioning at their best in such a state. I've cleaned and tested the sensors and backflushed the engine. Unfortunately I can't yet report on the success or otherwise of this process because my engine is apart for other reasons. It might be something to try though, it certainly can't hurt.

If anyone does try (or has tried) this suggestion I would be interested to hear if it made any difference to the idling.

The problem you stated is apparently very common. There is heaps written about the topic on this forum with no end of suggestions and frustration emanating. Like most, I have tried everything without success so far. The solution most people seem to adopt is the bandaid effect of dropping the car back to neutral whenever you sit at lights to stop the annoying shudder through the car.

I can tell you that changing the idle screw does not fix the problem. It will only increase your overall idling (including neutral), consume heaps more fuel and develop a desire to take off when sitting at the lights - thereby increasing wear & tear on your brakes etc. Realistically though, the ISC (idle speed control) servo, the FAIV (fast air idle valve) and the ECU (engine control unit) will all work to to continually reset the idle back to the set position.

So far I have changed the TPS, the idle control motor, and even the throttle body. I have adjusted the accelerator pedal switch & throttle cable to specifications. I have tested all the sensors and have even changed my fuel injectors and the fuel filter. None of these have made any difference to the problem. My TCU reports no faults in the transmission though I even did an oil change on that to ensure I had the specified tranny oil.

Having exhausted all suggestions so far, I am working on the theory that the cooling system might be at fault, specifically thermostat, coolant sensor or the coolant temperature sender . This is based on the fact that the coolant temperature apparently determines where the ECU directs the idling be set.

I've removed the sensors to find they were totally caked with the crud that circulates through the cooling system. Testing the sensors alone may not necessarily indicate a problem because whilst they may be functional in operation, due to the thick coating of crud they may not necessarily be performing accurately. The housing too was a total mud pit - particularly around the coolant sensor where a pooling effect seems inevitable. It is difficult to imagine the sensors could be functioning at their best in such a state. I've cleaned and tested the sensors and backflushed the engine. Unfortunately I can't yet report on the success or otherwise of this process because my engine is apart for other reasons. It might be something to try though, it certainly can't hurt.

If anyone does try (or has tried) this suggestion I would be interested to hear if it made any difference to the idling.

Thanks waz for ya reply mate much appericated i agree with you it is very frustrating when its goes into drive and it idle's rought ill do what you suggested and fingers crossed it works and i hope it all works out for you.

Cheers Mark.

EFI or Carbi? (I dont know if some TS/TR come carbi)

If its EFI, there is a screw with a lock nut which slightly pushes the throttle open. You can use this, or you can use the idle bypass, which is a screw on the throttle body which is like a tap, allowing more or less idle air through a passage in the throttle body.

I am not sure if there is a set proceedure to get it working well with the idle control of the motor though, I have not had much to do with EFI astrons.

ITS A EFI CAR AS STATED MATE

Waznanz and caspaflip: check out a thread here titled "Checking ISC with multimeter". Particularly posts by GST74 on faults with ECUs. Your problem is the same as mine and one that GST74 fixed by repairing some faulty capacitors on his ECU.

These cars suck for idle problems. I live with it by slipping that into neutral and flipping off the aircon when at the lights.

EFI or Carbi? (I dont know if some TS/TR come carbi)

If its EFI, there is a screw with a lock nut which slightly pushes the throttle open. You can use this, or you can use the idle bypass, which is a screw on the throttle body which is like a tap, allowing more or less idle air through a passage in the throttle body.

I am not sure if there is a set proceedure to get it working well with the idle control of the motor though, I have not had much to do with EFI astrons.

NEVER touch the throttle stop under any circumstance, most workshop manuals will also tell you tis.

YOu need first to reset the base idle, there is a plug under the dash next to the fuse box, 2 terminals need to be crossed, can not remember which ones as I have a special plug to do this. Once done you can make a general adjustment with the air screw.

Yes also check your sensors are clean, there is 1 temp sensor for the ecu, the other is for the guage. Also good clean coolant is needed, avoid that techalloy crap also, it is as good as using acid.