well i cant belive im starting a CAI thread as such:S lol

Anyways i was wondering, as the RPW inlet manifold is much more aggresive with air velocity, and air volum, what sort of air inductrion mods did u guys have who had fitted the intake? ( as mine shouls be on its way sometime this week)

I only have stock intake, used to have the RPW style intake but stock seems good enough, just considering if a different intake method may work hand in hand with the new inletr manifold?

*please note, im not after how ur stock car went with ur cai mod.. im only really afrter replys from ppl with alot of knowledge in the area.. or ppl who have the inlet manifold and what they have found works well if anything

thnx in advance... BTW MITSIMAN.. look in here!! lol

ive got the RPW intake manifold with the bell mouth runners. I was going to run some sort of CAI down to the front bumper but i've stuck with my stock snorkel. where the TB bolts onto the plenium it is a little bit further toward the side of the car (10mm approx for memory). I have the intake setup held in with only 3 of the original bolts and had to root around with the snorkel to bolt it to the front of the car. You can make it work.

After the install i got very little power gain high up in the RPM. However i got huge midrange torque gains and that transformed driveability. The best way to describe it would be like driving a VTEC/MIVEC car when u get a big lump of power around the 3,000RPM mark. Worth the cash

I've run 3 different setups in conjunction with an RPW Plennum w/ internal bell mouth runners.

Initially I bolted it to the car which already had an RPW CAI installed, and noticed big improvements in mid range as described by TZABOY, but alas - this setup was on the ol' auto, which limited the effectiveness of every mod.

Later I bolted it into the manual but never got around to putting the RPW CAI on this car, so I just had the pod bolted up to the MAF in the std location. Obviously sucking in cooler air would have been better.

Now I've got some feaky intake with pipes going all thru the engine bay 'n stuff lol .

I guess the point I'm trying to make is - I've been very happy with it with all the setups described above. I consider it to be the best mod I've purchased from RPW, and definetly the highest quality one.

thanks guys!

they were the exact kind of responses i was after.

i still do have the rpw styles CAI in the shed, however it means having the air flow sensor heaps far away from the throttle body, which the local dyno tuner ( quite a few adelaide magna owners have used this workshop) will not tune it being this far away and swear against moving it,

i still do have the rpw styles CAI in the shed, however it means having the air flow sensor heaps far away from the throttle body, which the local dyno tuner ( quite a few adelaide magna owners have used this workshop) will not tune it being this far away and swear against moving it,

I have heard of this (Graham West or something??). I did discuss it with my tuner when we put the emanage in the auto magna, and he claimed that he didn't really see a problem with it from the point of view of distance from MAF to T/B. He seemed to think he could control whatever variables were introduced by such a setup using the Emanage.

When you think about it - it makes sense. The tuning process (with a piggyback) is just making small adjustments to fuel delivery, and ignition timing against a given airflow / engine load value. And looking at my engine bay now - there is probably a total of about 4 meters of intake pipe between my MAF sensor an T/B.

When you think about it - it makes sense. The tuning process (with a piggyback) is just making small adjustments to fuel delivery, and ignition timing against a given airflow / engine load value. And looking at my engine bay now - there is probably a total of about 4 meters of intake pipe between my MAF sensor an T/B.
Actually, it's not about air flow as such. All the ECU cares about is the mass of the air. Increased airflow typically yields an increase in the mass of air come ignition time, but that's not always the case.

Whilst it's ideal to keep the meter approximately in the same place, it's not the end of the world if it's moved.

anyone else with the inlet manifold installed? that can speak from experience in regards to cai?

or MITSIMAN?

I'm spending most of my R&D budget on intake customising as you're no doubt aware and the next thing I'm looking at is replacing the TB to MAF rubber pipe using multiple pipes (say 4 x 1.1/2") in place of the single large pipe, belmouthing the inlets and shaping to accept an adapter hose to mate with the MAF. Can move it anywhere it needs to go really. The idea is to improve air velocity and hence low/mid rpm air volume availability. That's what made my 1st manifold proto so much fun :badgrin:

The shorter the inlet tract naturally the more power but be mindful of inlet runner length, diameter, bends, number of runners per port/cylinder. There's a helluva lot to it and I believe there's no real perfect solution - always a compromise in an area.

i got it on.
but as my engine as lost combustion and therfore loosing power i think its unfair to judge my comment on wat i got. basically got no power increase even when putting on a haltec e6x. but once i put my fresh engine in then i can complete the comment and see how much i get out of it compared to now

I think eveyron ehas alreday covered what you need to know abot the manifold.

The manifold was designed to improve torque which is what it does tremendously.

You don't need to be einsten to realise that it won't do a tremendous amount at high rpms other than improve efficiency slightly because the restriction is in the throttle body volume that can be sucked through into the manifold.

But the larger plenum chamber with the internal bell mouths is what improves throttle response and torque.

Fit a larger throttle body and of course, top end performance would be greater but with so many people using auto's with cruise etc, it has not been a popular choice in terms of an upgrade.

The reason why it costs so much to make is mostly the internal bell mouths - which are custom spun in aluminium so that it can be pressed into the runners and then welded in, and also this welder I employ as can be seen with the photos, is brilliant with his welding, the best i have seen which everyone comments on.

I think eveyron ehas alreday covered what you need to know abot the manifold.

The manifold was designed to improve torque which is what it does tremendously.

You don't need to be einsten to realise that it won't do a tremendous amount at high rpms other than improve efficiency slightly because the restriction is in the throttle body volume that can be sucked through into the manifold.

But the larger plenum chamber with the internal bell mouths is what improves throttle response and torque.

Fit a larger throttle body and of course, top end performance would be greater but with so many people using auto's with cruise etc, it has not been a popular choice in terms of an upgrade.

The reason why it costs so much to make is mostly the internal bell mouths - which are custom spun in aluminium so that it can be pressed into the runners and then welded in, and also this welder I employ as can be seen with the photos, is brilliant with his welding, the best i have seen which everyone comments on.

have to agree with the welding. it is brilliant :D

have to agree with the welding. it is brilliant :D

I second that - alot of people comment that it looks machine welded.

Looks very interesting, one question: Does it need a piggyback ECU, or are the gains apparent with the stock ECU? I know it isn't really aimed at improving peak power, but how much of an increase in peak power is to be expected?

The long and short of it is like any performance modification.

Without ECU tuning it diminishes the total gains you get from the unit, but you don't HAVE to tune it

But I recomend a min of a rising rate FPR unit (Under vacuem) cause the larger plenum will mess up the accelerator pump settings (Leaning them out) which is non adjustable in the majority of piggy back ecu systems. This ensures on initial acceleration the vheicle doesn't lean out cause of the extra air it gets that it was never able to get before.

My 1st prototype yielded tremendous mid range torque gains (read: "quarter mile killer") using the stock ecu. I believe that people will be very happy with their gains from a manifold upgrade using the stock ecu - naturally the additional fine tuning of a piggyback etc will add a twinkle more.

Another feature not discussed yet is the massive improvements in fuel econ. With the proto on my home-work-home cycle dropped from 10.9l/100 to 9.6 with a very best of 9.3 over 2 days which is approx 150km for me.

So you see it's WIN - WIN! That outa convince the mrs to let you get one for Chrissy :D

OK, I'm convinced...sell me one godammit!!:D

So you see it's WIN - WIN! That outa convince the mrs to let you get one for Chrissy :D
Well, less typing and more fabricating :bowrofl:

Well, less typing and more fabricating :bowrofl:

Yeah!! :cool:

...how much would it cost - I have no money......

Yeah!! :cool:

...how much would it cost - I have no money......


well im sure its not free, so i guess you aint getting one lol

well im sure its not free, so i guess you aint getting one lol

Unless I dig in to the Division Funds......:think:

Unless I dig in to the Division Funds......:think:

I don't care where you get it from lol

So, as a recap, would it be a good option to bolt the Manifold onto a essentially stock standard TJ VRX auto ?

If so, what other mods would be recommended - ie High Flow Throttle Body, Pod Filter (no CAI so the MAP doesn't get relocated), extractors and exhaust ??

Or, just bolt it on ?


Will you really notice much of a difference in a stock auto ?

So, as a recap, would it be a good option to bolt the Manifold onto a essentially stock standard TJ VRX auto ?

If so, what other mods would be recommended - ie High Flow Throttle Body, Pod Filter (no CAI so the MAP doesn't get relocated), extractors and exhaust ??

Or, just bolt it on ?


Will you really notice much of a difference in a stock auto ?

You could certainly enjoy it just as a bolt-on with no other mods. Strongly recommend following this with extractors and throttle body and cai work. I haven't tried it with a Fuel pressure reg so I can't comment on that as an integral component to suppliment the manifold's good work.

Is having the K+N Filter in the standard position with no CAI going to pose much of a problem ?

this thread has gone way off topic since page 1

so back on topic


anyone who has this fitted can please comment on what cai u have supporting the inlet manifold , im only curious as whatever CAI u have should directly effect this mod



thnx

Is the engine actually sucking in much more air? It's more the point it uses it more efficiently isnt it? Any CAI that works on your old manifold would suffice for this one, remember u still got the same throttle body dont you so any intake pipe thats bigger will be more than enough really.

well obviously,

but its also using the air more efficiently and has a bigger area for more air and may possibly push the air through at a higher velocity , so a good cai could really come in handy here i would think.

as i said in my original post, not really looking for speculation from ppl who have not rtested the inlet manifold , im after ppls experiences with it +cai.. thnx