gday all
my TR just stoped yesterday and would not start.
got it towed home and tryed to start and it started. then turned off and it will not start again.
i thought it was the fuel pump but now im thinking it might be the relay ??
and cant find it.
the reason i think this is because i put a test light on the wiring where it plugs onto the fuel pump and there is nothing there at all.

anyone got any ideas???

sounds like the relay,

are/were you able to start the ignition??

You should hear a clicking sound from under the dash, from the left had side and the 'Engine Light' should be staying on, if its the relay or engine management problem.


Otherwise it could be an ignition system problem, ie: battery


Commomly, the relay goes, you can start the car, drive it for a bit, then it conks out, start it again, drive for a bit and conks out etc

where is the relay for the fuel pump??

fuel pump relay - mounted in centre console accessed from driver's side



Is there a clicking sound? the engine light staying on?

i cant get it to start but with the ignition on the engine light is on.but does go off after a few secs

would hard wiring the fuel pump work??

there is a fuel pump control unit connector on the left hand side under the glove box.

i will go and see if i can find it

there is a fuel pump control unit connector on the left hand side under the glove box.


thats why it usually clicks if theres a problem


if it the relay your looking at $140 - $200 easy

yep when i turn the ing on it clicks under the glove box somwhere and after i turn it off it clicks again after a few secs
could this be it??

sounds exactly it.

I suggest booking it in and getting them to have a look at it, it will be the relay.


like I said its about $140 - $200 depending on where you get it changed

do you have a voltmeter?

if so i can tell you how to check this fuel control unit.

ok i got it out (the relay that was clicking)
can i use one out of a 4cyl magna or does it have to be V6
im just going to get one from a wreckers

the part number on the relay is E8T07871 and then 3X08

how do i test it??

while it is connected put a voltmeter into the number 6 connector piece, backprobe it while someone attempts to start it there should be cranking voltage present.if there is there is a problem between the pump and connector. the number six connector is the one with the black and white wire thick stripe not narrow one. if that helps?

i dont have a voltmeter
how about a test light would that work??

i guess it would not 100% sure thou?

ok i will go and try it lol

spewin i left my test light in a mates car this arvo(i hope)

mine clicks well more like a small clunk when i go to the on position and after i go to off a few secs later it clicks again. and mine works perfectly. i know it sounds stupid but check your fuel filters could be so full of crap they may not let enough through.

edit: russian relays click closed because the magnetic field generated by the small circuit allows the large current to close. clicking usually means its working and conecting

looking at the wiring diagram the engine control relay supplies power for the fuel pump. so a black/blue wire powers it. it also powers the fuel injecters. so use your test light for the power on the injectors. with the key on the on position. also check for power on the "idle speed control servo". i think this is the isc but only bout 75~80% sure. try this and get back to me. only test the red wires for the injectors and the idle speed control servo.

DO NOT do it on the following combinations with the test light i dont know if the ecu can supply the current for the light. its fine if you use a multimeter though cause they draw milliamps or microamps.

4 cyl
on the injectors
yellow/blue
yellow/black
yellow/red
green/white
on the idle control servo
green/black
green/red
green/blue
grey/blue

on the v6
on the injectors
yellow/blue
yellow/black
yellow/red
green/white
yellow/white
yellow/green
on the idle control servo
green/black
green/red
green/blue
green/blue(yes theres two nfi why) or the haynes things wrong

hope i helped

my fuel filter was changed today it was the first thing i thought of.
if i put aero start in the intake it starts right up and runs untill the aero start runs out then stalls and the whole time there is no power to the fuel pump. also tryed a new fuel pump and it made no difference

put the relay back in tommorow and test the red wires for the injectors and the isc. if there is power it is a wiring fault between the relay and the fuel pump or if there is no power going to the injecters and the isc it is your relay.

looking at the wiring diagram the engine control relay supplies power for the fuel pump. so a black/blue wire powers it. it also powers the fuel injecters. so use your test light for the power on the injectors. with the key on the on position. also check for power on the "idle speed control servo". i think this is the isc but only bout 75~80% sure. try this and get back to me. only test the red wires for the injectors and the idle speed control servo.

DO NOT do it on the following combinations with the test light i dont know if the ecu can supply the current for the light. its fine if you use a multimeter though cause they draw milliamps or microamps.

4 cyl
on the injectors
yellow/blue
yellow/black
yellow/red
green/white
on the idle control servo
green/black
green/red
green/blue
grey/blue

on the v6
on the injectors
yellow/blue
yellow/black
yellow/red
green/white
yellow/white
yellow/green
on the idle control servo
green/black
green/red
green/blue
green/blue(yes theres two nfi why) or the haynes things wrong

hope i helped

there is power at the black/blue wire as well as the red one when the ign is on.

its the relay

you wont be able to drive it, without it cutting out

i pulled thr whole centre console out and i cant find a relay in there anywhere.

its right under the ecu. but if there is power at the red ones it means your relay is turning on. at the black/blue wire is for the fuel pump. turn the ignition to on and get someone to listen for the fuel pump working. cause youve got a new fuel pump and theres power going to it. so prob might be somewhere else. check the grounding for the fuel pump. could be that with the different ground for your test light it says theres power into the pump but bad ground or ground wire means the pump cant work?

when you try and start it what happens. does the engine rotate to start.

yes it turns over and if i spray wd40 or aero start into the plenum first it starts then stops.
the fuel pump is not pumping...i disconected the fuel line at the fuel pump and not a drop gets pumped.. i might try wiring up a custom relay straight to the fuel pump because i ran a wire straight from the battery to the fuel pump and it started.:nuts:

you said you tested the black/blue wire that also had power. where did you test it? if you tested it at the relay and it had power but not at the fuel pump the wire has been broken at some point.

To save all this jerking around... RTFM! :) see attached.

To save all this jerking around... RTFM! :) see attached.


Exactly, the first pic states

"failure of the control relay prevents power supply to the fuel pump, injectors, stepper motor, and ecu, resulting in failure to start"

which means it might turn over a few times, to empty the system out, but then you wont be able to move it at all.

but then how is he getting power on the wire that supplies power to the fuel pump.? all im saying is check the wires first. the fuel pump works when on its own relay. so thats fine. as per the manuals put 12V on the check connecter. this supplies power directly to the fuel pump. but since the red wires for the fuel injectors and idle speed control servo have power. these can only ged power from the relay. they ground through the engine control unit. get a multimeter with a continuity setting. with the ignition off. get a bit of wire and put it on the connector at the fuel pump. now with that connected to your multimerer (basically extends your probe) the other probe put on the wire at the relay. but disconect the wiring harness on the relay. this checks that the wire is not broken between the relay and fuel pump. this would be on the black/blue. on the other wire test between the wire and ground. if they both go to ground your power wire for the fuel pump is broken.

im sorry to go on but you cant just spawn power into a wire if a relay is faulty. if you can pull power through it its fine. relays go on and off thats it. only two things can go wrong. the switchin part for the high power is broken so it doesnt connect. or your small power coil is broken. thats about it.

I posted the manual so he/she can go back to basics with this and diagnose this problem with some level of consistency.

Start with the test in the 3rd picture and see how you go from there....

were is it??

take away the passanger kickpanel. near the door. and look up there should be something near the ecu. it should be under.

as in

[ecu]
[]-------relay is here

where is what? which picture are you looking at?

where is what? which picture are you looking at?

sorry mate i didnt see it and i thought that you ment that you done a thread on it and went searching ..

my bad:nuts:

ok thanks for the help guys..
it turned out to be a combo of both the fuel pump and the relay.
id replace one and nothing then the other and nothing

then i put a new relay and new pump in at the same time and presto.

some magna trivia;
the relay and fuel pump in my wifes pajero are interchangable with the magna

cheers Rod

what a bizzar problem for both the relay and fuel pump to die. :nuts:

Anyway... glad to hear you've got it sorted.

that is so random. its like the relays contacts had deteriated and could connect but could not supply the current required.:nuts: