Ok i really gotta find out what this problem is coz its bugging me so much..
when the car is warm i get a mild but painful grinding sund when changing from first to second, going into first from nuetral and going DOwn into third and i hate it with a passion. the sound is coming frm right under the gear stick, ive fiddled around with the selector nut with no changes. im hoping its a clutch problem, not a gearbox one. any help???

it might be your synchros in your gearbox, i occasionally get a similar problem with my 2nd gear. I haven't found the optimum oil for yet.

Also it'd happen if you don't have enough clutch fluid in

it might be your synchros in your gearbox, i occasionally get a similar problem with my 2nd gear. I haven't found the optimum oil for yet.

Also it'd happen if you don't have enough clutch fluid in


ah ok. is that fixable or a replaceable problem? any ideas how much?
The Clutch fluid is a bit of a buggar to replace.

grinding means u either have no fluid in the box or your synchros have packed it in :P

grinding means u either have no fluid in the box or your synchros have packed it in :P

ok. how much for new synchros?

the most effective way for you would be to take it to a mechanic and ask for a quote... they will tell you wot is wrong exactly... you tell the people on here and we will tell u how to fix it. :) it could be many things

ok. how much for new synchros?

too much
i think its about 70 -80 bucks per synchro(and its a rubbish job 2) from memory
anyone correct me if i am wrong
you need to strip the gearbox.. which your car will be off the road for at least 1 day

too much
i think its about 70 -80 bucks per synchro(and its a rubbish job 2) from memory
anyone correct me if i am wrong
you need to strip the gearbox.. which your car will be off the road for at least 1 day

:redface: yeh i was afraid of that :cry: know of a good place i can take it too or anythin i can do myself? or better yet the cost?

umm... not really..
the simplest solution in the interim is to slow your gear changes down..
ie allow the the gears to slow down.. therefore the synchro doesn't grind across the edges...
ie don't slam it from 1st too 2nd.. just shift it slowly.. and it won't grind..
other than that it just depends how much it irritates you..
it won't cause that much of a problem!

umm... not really..
the simplest solution in the interim is to slow your gear changes down..
ie allow the the gears to slow down.. therefore the synchro doesn't grind across the edges...
ie don't slam it from 1st too 2nd.. just shift it slowly.. and it won't grind..
other than that it just depends how much it irritates you..
it won't cause that much of a problem!

there goes my racing life then :cry: :cry: ive tried slowing my shifts down, makes little difference when the car is warm unless i take like 5 minutes to go from 1st to second.
lets say i tried to ignore the noise, how long would it take to wear out? or should i just go get it fixd coz i aint to keen on super slow shifting...

I got a remanufactured gearbox installed for about 1100 bucks.

Remanufactured is an original bell housing with everything new internally, regardless of wear. All built to mitsu's specs and inspected. Pretty good way to go really. AC Delco does them.

i was having the same problem in my old car
but i mostly happened when i gave it high revs in first gear before changing to second
is yours doing the same?
i was having this problem for over a year and as far as i know it still excists
but i have sold you car about a year ago
but yeah dont slam second and it should be alright

i was having the same problem in my old car
but i mostly happened when i gave it high revs in first gear before changing to second
is yours doing the same?
i was having this problem for over a year and as far as i know it still excists
but i have sold you car about a year ago
but yeah dont slam second and it should be alright

Its fine when its cool, like for the first 5-10 minutes or so after i start the car. but when it heats up its chronic. im not sure i wanna go spending 1g to fully recon the box. mainly coz i dont have enough to do anything but drive, but i wanna fix it so bad.
dont slam ay? its pretty tempting lol. i couldnt resist it last night, pulled up next to a mazda 3 who wanted to go so i went 4 it hehehe kicked his lil blue bumper :badgrin: only to see a skyline fly past from the other side of him lol. but still my own victory. but yeh it grinded in that little event.
im assuming from whats been said that if i ignore it it wont get any worse? eg my box wont just pack it in when im driving in the near future?

0-60 in 4 secs
0-100 in 9.72
:D
thanx for the help so far, keep it coming please :)

Its fine when its cool, like for the first 5-10 minutes or so after i start the car. but when it heats up its chronic. im not sure i wanna go spending 1g to fully recon the box. mainly coz i dont have enough to do anything but drive, but i wanna fix it so bad.
dont slam ay? its pretty tempting lol. i couldnt resist it last night, pulled up next to a mazda 3 who wanted to go so i went 4 it hehehe kicked his lil blue bumper :badgrin: only to see a skyline fly past from the other side of him lol. but still my own victory. but yeh it grinded in that little event.
im assuming from whats been said that if i ignore it it wont get any worse? eg my box wont just pack it in when im driving in the near future?

0-60 in 4 secs
0-100 in 9.72
:D
thanx for the help so far, keep it coming please :)


My top gear died, so I got my whole auto box reconditioned, I couldnt cope not being able to blitz off from a complete stand still (at the lights etc) ahhhhhhhh feels so much better. It's nice to have my o/d button working again aswell.


If you can find someone who will do a recond auto for a front wheel drive car for less then $1300 Id do it

My top gear died, so I got my whole auto box reconditioned, I couldnt cope not being able to blitz off from a complete stand still (at the lights etc) ahhhhhhhh feels so much better. It's nice to have my o/d button working again aswell.


If you can find someone who will do a recond auto for a front wheel drive car for less then $1300 Id do it

hmmmm sounds like the only option. i thought bout jst replacing the synchros. mines manual so it might b a bit more. is there a cooling system for the gearbox i can install or something? might help it?
i think seriously bout it when i got the money, it is my first car so yeh. ill c wot happens.
yehi fully agree with u bout taking off, slow is so boring haha

recon box? replace parts? or leave it? start voting lol

hmmmm sounds like the only option. i thought bout jst replacing the synchros. mines manual so it might b a bit more. is there a cooling system for the gearbox i can install or something? might help it?
i think seriously bout it when i got the money, it is my first car so yeh. ill c wot happens.
yehi fully agree with u bout taking off, slow is so boring haha

recon box? replace parts? or leave it? start voting lol


heres my theory:

replace parts = might aswell get the whole thing done, they will recomend this

Usually if those things are gone, means alot of seals and other parts are going.

Leaving it could cause more problems, and more costs.

Get it recond, I think manual might be cheaper.

p.s there is already a cooling system for the trans built in

heres my theory:

replace parts = might aswell get the whole thing done, they will recomend this

Usually if those things are gone, means alot of seals and other parts are going.

Leaving it could cause more problems, and more costs.

Get it recond, I think manual might be cheaper.

p.s there is already a cooling system for the trans built in


hmmmmm more money. my wallets gonna end up with arthritis. ill call around, any recomendations on shops?
makes sense tho, and i am keen for clean and smooth shifts. ill start investigating.. cheers russian!

hmmmmm more money. my wallets gonna end up with arthritis. ill call around, any recomendations on shops?
makes sense tho, and i am keen for clean and smooth shifts. ill start investigating.. cheers russian!


hey mate,

Try the place Killbilly suggested http://www.acdelco.com.au/


OR look under auto transmissions in the local business directory's (IE: white/yellow pages)

Dosent hurt to start off by getting a few quotes from a few places, and asking what it includes in the rebuild.

Let us know on the quotes and what they say is included, make sure you ask about warranty aswell.

good luck

hey mate,

Try the place Killbilly suggested http://www.acdelco.com.au/


OR look under auto transmissions in the local business directory's (IE: white/yellow pages)

Dosent hurt to start off by getting a few quotes from a few places, and asking what it includes in the rebuild.

Let us know on the quotes and what they say is included, make sure you ask about warranty aswell.

good luck

cheers, that site was a bit weird, had stuff only for holdens... ill hav another look.

yeh im gettin a mechanic mate to drive my car around to try and diagnose the problem. he'll give me a decent price, he doesnt charge me for labour (speedy exhaust everton hills)hehe.(its not what u know, its who u know). yeh ill get back to you with some prices and anything else i find out. the only other problem is my bank account. im a lil stretched for $$$$

alright i just got a single quote from a mate of mine.
He'll recondition the whole gearbox AND replace my clutch (bit of slipping happening) with a dayton standard clutch all for $660. thats parts, labour and gst, all done and installed there and then. i reckon thats pretty good considering killbilly had his done for 1100, may have been a different job tho... anyways let me know what you all think. much appreciated.
cheers tim

alright i just got a single quote from a mate of mine.
He'll recondition the whole gearbox AND replace my clutch (bit of slipping happening) with a dayton standard clutch all for $660. thats parts, labour and gst, all done and installed there and then. i reckon thats pretty good considering killbilly had his done for 1100, may have been a different job tho... anyways let me know what you all think. much appreciated.
cheers tim


Excellent price, the car will fly.

alright i just got a single quote from a mate of mine.
He'll recondition the whole gearbox AND replace my clutch (bit of slipping happening) with a dayton standard clutch all for $660. thats parts, labour and gst, all done and installed there and then. i reckon thats pretty good considering killbilly had his done for 1100, may have been a different job tho... anyways let me know what you all think. much appreciated.
cheers tim

That's awesome mate! The V6 manual boxes (F5M33) are a bit more expensive as they weren't as common, hence my more expesive price. Even still...yours is very good!

Go for that :D

Hi guys
Have you tried synthetic transmission oil? Had similar problems with a TR manual, tried various conventional oils, no improvement. Changed to Castrol SynTrans...massive improvement.Redline do similar stuff as well. Worth a go if you haven't tried it....easier/cheaper than transmission rebuilds!
Another thing that helped was to replace all the soft rubber mounting bushes on the changer mechanism with hard plastic gizmos and lubed everything that moved.
But synthetic was definitely the good oil.

Hi guys
Have you tried synthetic transmission oil? Had similar problems with a TR manual, tried various conventional oils, no improvement. Changed to Castrol SynTrans...massive improvement.Redline do similar stuff as well. Worth a go if you haven't tried it....easier/cheaper than transmission rebuilds!
Another thing that helped was to replace all the soft rubber mounting bushes on the changer mechanism with hard plastic gizmos and lubed everything that moved.
But synthetic was definitely the good oil.

sounds good ill give it a go... theres one problem, sounds stupid but i dunno how to change the transmission oil. tips please :D

sounds good ill give it a go... theres one problem, sounds stupid but i dunno how to change the transmission oil. tips please :D

heres my tip:

Use the search button lol - Its at the top next to 'private messages' on the left of it

Basically anything you can think of has been covered over and over.

drain plug is the large hex plug at the bottom of the diff section of the transmission.
filler is the hex plug on the front of the gear box section about 1/2 way down. NOT the the bolts on the top. Fill until it overflows.Spec is 2 litres.
Couldn't find link RuSSiaN mentioned.

sounds good ill give it a go... theres one problem, sounds stupid but i dunno how to change the transmission oil. tips please :D

How long since its been changed?! Thats probably half the problem... Every 2 years is a good bet.

Transmission oils are probably harder than engine oils in terms on choosing one. Some oils will be good for slower, smooth changes and others quick, sharper changes (the gear changes won't feel so smooth).

I think this is how it works (in general):
A synthetic will give you a quicker, but sharper gear change.
A conventional will give you a slower but smoother gear change.
A syn fortified one will give you a compromise between the two.

I had a bit of crunching problems in my car (which I stated in another post), and I put in Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 (which is syn fortified) mixed with Morey's Oil Stabiliser. That helps keeps the parts coated and improves the characteristics of the oil.

I mate did the same change after me, although he had the idea of putting in Nulon Worn Engine Treatment in it as well. It seems to work great for him! The worn engine treatment is mostly the PTFE which reduces the friction inside the gearboxes and seems to improve the shifting characteristics even more.

Also ensure that your clutch & brake fluid is replaced every year. This is another thing that people neglect and will usually leave to costly repair bills if contaminates (especially water) get into it since it sucks water out of the atmosphere. Repair for the clutch are master & slave cylinders and for brakes usually the break pistons etc. One reason for the neglect is that unless you got a pressure device like a garage you need two people to change it.

On that note, brake/clutch/transmission fluids aren't replaced as often as they should be by a garage, and you usually have to ask for the transmission to be done. Some car books recommend 3 years for the clutch fluid but thats complete bull! especially if they use standard dot 4. It may last that long but you're taking a big risk. (its about $7 a bottle so its not a huge expense)

You can't really tell if there's water in it unless its tested for. The best fluid to use is a super dot 4, which costs about a dollar more. for clutch you only need 1 bottle (and some of that is for flushing) and for brakes 2 bottles.

Super dot 4 is completely compatible with Dot 4, Nulon Super Dot 4 is definately a good choice. With that you can get it changed after 2 years as it has a special formulation to reduce absorption of water from the atmosphere.

ok kool, thats a big help. one last thing, ive heard you need to cyphon the transmission oil... is this correct or is it just a drain plug like ur engine oil?
thanx...

i thought id spam this thread :P never done the manual service :P the auto on the other hand...
oh and also the search function is an awesome thing :D for looking for answers as some ppl do get quite annoyed when you keep seeing people asking "why does my astron 2.6lt engine rattle when idleing or on startup..." :bowrofl: '
personally i like a bit of chatting can be quite hilarious and amusing while i'm at work :D

my gears are hanging a little bit between 2nd and 3rd when the auto box is still warming up and slow off the mark, but the last point i would just leave that to owning an auto, manual conversion will be much better, hpoe my box dies to give me an excuse to change it over sooner

How long since its been changed?! Thats probably half the problem... Every 2 years is a good bet.

Transmission oils are probably harder than engine oils in terms on choosing one. Some oils will be good for slower, smooth changes and others quick, sharper changes (the gear changes won't feel so smooth).

I think this is how it works (in general):
A synthetic will give you a quicker, but sharper gear change.
A conventional will give you a slower but smoother gear change.
A syn fortified one will give you a compromise between the two.

I had a bit of crunching problems in my car (which I stated in another post), and I put in Penrite Manual Gear Oil 75 (which is syn fortified) mixed with Morey's Oil Stabiliser. That helps keeps the parts coated and improves the characteristics of the oil.

I mate did the same change after me, although he had the idea of putting in Nulon Worn Engine Treatment in it as well. It seems to work great for him! The worn engine treatment is mostly the PTFE which reduces the friction inside the gearboxes and seems to improve the shifting characteristics even more.

Also ensure that your clutch & brake fluid is replaced every year. This is another thing that people neglect and will usually leave to costly repair bills if contaminates (especially water) get into it since it sucks water out of the atmosphere. Repair for the clutch are master & slave cylinders and for brakes usually the break pistons etc. One reason for the neglect is that unless you got a pressure device like a garage you need two people to change it.

On that note, brake/clutch/transmission fluids aren't replaced as often as they should be by a garage, and you usually have to ask for the transmission to be done. Some car books recommend 3 years for the clutch fluid but thats complete bull! especially if they use standard dot 4. It may last that long but you're taking a big risk. (its about $7 a bottle so its not a huge expense)

You can't really tell if there's water in it unless its tested for. The best fluid to use is a super dot 4, which costs about a dollar more. for clutch you only need 1 bottle (and some of that is for flushing) and for brakes 2 bottles.

Super dot 4 is completely compatible with Dot 4, Nulon Super Dot 4 is definately a good choice. With that you can get it changed after 2 years as it has a special formulation to reduce absorption of water from the atmosphere.


Well as far as i know... the gear oil has NEVER been replaced so its definatley worth doing. im jst trying to find the filler and drain plugs atm, having a little trouble determining which bolt is the right one...

you should invest in a workshop manual!
drain plug is on bottom of the gearbox just a normal looking bolt. just drain it out from there and the filler plug is half way up the g/box on side near front of car. you pull that out and stick a plastic hose attatched to a funnel and you hold it in there while someone poors in the oil. its full when oil starts coming out of the filler hole. this is a long tedious job have fun.

im using 75-80W gear oil. any auto parts store will have a book with the listing in it